How to Replace Front Wheel Bearing 2006-08 Dodge Ram
Created on: 2016-07-12
Check out this video to learn how to replace the front wheel bearing on your 06-08 Dodge Ram. 1A Auto shows you the steps.
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step 1 :Removing the Wheel
- Loosen the 22mm lug nuts with the vehicle on the ground
- Pry out the center cap with a pick
- Loosen the 35mm axle nut
- Raise the vehicle with a floor jack
- Secure the vehicle on jack stands
- Remove the lug nuts
- Pull off the wheel
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step 2 :Removing the Rotor and Axle Nut
- Remove the two 21mm bolts securing the caliper bracket to the spindle
- Tie the caliper assembly out of the way by hanging it from the frame
- Remove the rotor
- Remove the axle nut
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step 3 :Removing the Tie Rod
- Tap the end of the axle to push it out of the hub
- Remove the 21mm nut from the tie rod until it's at the bottom
- Tap the bottom with a hammer
- Remove the 21mm nut the rest of the way
- Pull the tie rod up and out of the control arm
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step 4 :Removing the Spindle from the Control Arm
- Loosen the 22mm nut connecting the upper ball joint to the spindle
- Tap the front of the knuckle with a hammer without cracking it
- Once loose, hit the bottom of the control arm to release the joint from the knuckle if needed
- Release the tab on the connector for the ABS sensor
- Disconnect the ABS sensor
- Release it from the clamps under the control arm
- Remove the axle shaft from the wheel bearing
- Remove the ABS sensor form the spindle
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step 5 :Removing the Hub
- Remove the three 18mm bolts holding the hub with a breaker bar
- Hammer the back of the hub out of the spindle
- Remove the hub and dust shield
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step 6 :Reinstalling the Hub
- Clean the face and bore of the spindle and make sure it's clear of corrosion and scoring
- Send the ABS wiring through the dust shield
- Line the sensor up with the slot in the dust shield
- Start the hub into place
- Hand tighten two of the bolts
- Insert the axle out of the hub once aligned
- Start the last bolt
- Tighten the three 18mm bolts
- Torque the 18mm bolts to 120 foot-pounds
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step 7 :Reinstalling the Upper Ball Joint
- Install the axle splines into the hub
- Hand tighten the axle nut
- Tighten the castle nut
- Insert the cotter pin into the castle nut and twist it
- Slide the upper ball joint into the spindle
- Tighten the 22mm upper ball joint nut
- Torque the 22mm upper ball join nut to 40 foot-pounds and add an additional 90 degrees
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step 8 :Reinstalling the Tie Rod
- Insert the tie rod into the spindle
- Start the nut by hand
- Tighten the 21mm nut with a socket and ratchet
- Torque the tie rod nut to 45 foot-pounds
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step 9 :Reinstalling the Rotor and Caliper
- Insert the wiring harness into the keepers on the control arm
- Reconnect the connector
- Insert the rotor into place
- Insert the caliper to the rotor
- Tighten the 21mm bolts to the caliper
- Torque the caliper bolts to 130 foot-pounds
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step 10 :Reattaching the Wheel
- Slide the wheel into place
- Start the lug nuts by hand
- Tighten the lug nuts preliminarily
- Lower the vehicle to the ground
- Tighten the axle nut
- Torque the axle nut to 185 foot-pounds
- Replace the center cap
- Tighten the lug nuts to 135 foot-pounds in a crossing or star pattern
Tools needed
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21mm Socket
35mm Socket
Hammer
Flat Blade Screwdriver
Torque Wrench
Pry Bar
Jack Stands
18mm Socket
Bungee Cord
Floor Jack
Needle nose pliers
22mm Socket
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we're going to show you how to do the wheel bearing and hub assembly on this Dodge Ram. This one's a 2008, but the procedure's pretty much the same for 2006 to 2008.
You'll need a new assembly from 1AAuto.com. 18 to 35 mm sockets with a ratchet and extensions, breaker bar, hooked pick, bungee cord or mechanic's wire, a pry bar, hammer, flat blade screwdriver, a file, torque wrench, and a jack and jack stands.
With the vehicle on the ground, using the 22 millimeter socket and breaker bar, break the lug nuts for your wheel loose. These chrome lug nuts tend to be swollen, so make sure your socket's on there good. Using the small pick, remove the center cap from the wheel. Using a 35 millimeter socket and a breaker bar, crack the axle nut loose. Raise and support your vehicle. Finish removing the lug nuts. Remove the wheel and tire from the hub.
Remove the two 21 millimeter bolts securing the caliper bracket to the spindle. Be sure to crack both of these loose before removing them. If they are removed fully one at a time, the caliper can twist and cause the flex hose on the brake line to tear. Be sure to support the assembly while you remove the last bolt. Remove the entire caliper and carrier assembly. Using a bungee cord secure it out of the way by hanging it off of the frame. Remove the rotor from the hub.
Brace the hub with a pry bar and finish removing your axle nut. Using a hammer, tap the end of the axle to push it out of the hub. Remove the nut for the tire rod. Take a 21 millimeter socket and ratchet. You want to leave the nut on a few threads so that it's flush with the bottom of the stud. Carefully tap up with a hammer. Remove the nut. Remove the tie rod from the control arm. Remove the 22 millimeter nut connecting the upper ball joint to the spindle.
Tap the front of the knuckle right where the ball joint comes through with a hammer to release it, careful not to hit it too hard because this is aluminum and it could crack. Once it's loosened up, you may have to hit the bottom of the control arm to release the joint from the knuckle. Using a flat blade screwdriver, release the tab on the connector for the ABS sensor. Push down and release the connector. Release it from the clamps under the control arm.
Pull down on the spindle or push up on the upper control arm to separate them and remove the axle shaft from the wheel bearing. Move the axle shaft so it's out of the way.
Remove the ABS sensor from the retainer on the spindle and allow it to hang off to the side. Using an 18 mm socket and a breaker bar, break the three 18mm bolts holding the hub in. Finish removing them with a ratchet. With the hub unbolted, use a hammer to hit the back of the hub and knock it out of the spindle. Be careful not to hit the dust shield in the process. Separate the wiring from the dust shield.
Here we have our old part that we removed from the truck and our new part from 1AAuto. As you can see, we have the same bolt pattern. Comes with new studs. We have the same splines where our CV axle's going to go in. We have the same ABS sensor, same wiring harness, and the same three bolt pattern to bolt into our spindle.
Using a file, clean the surface—both where the hub mounts to the face of the spindle and where it sits inside the bore of the spindle. Be sure that the spindle is free of burrs, corrosion, or anything else that's going to impede the hub seating into the spindle properly. Once the surface is free and clear of debris and dirt as well as burrs and any raised scoring, we can install our new wheel hub assembly.
Send your ABS wiring back through the dust shield. Be sure that the sensor lines up with the slot in the dust shield. If necessary, it is okay to line up the splines in the CV axle for now. Always start the hub in, start a bolt by hand, pop the axle out of the hub once we know it's aligned where we want it. Start our last bolt. We'll tighten these bolts down with an 18 mm socket and ratchet. Torque the bolts to 120 foot-pounds.
Line up and install the spines of your axle into the hub. Start your axle nut on as far as it'll go. Lift up on the upper control arm, slide the upper ball joint into the spindle. Pull down until you're able to get the nut started onto the threads. Tighten it down with a 22 millimeter socket and ratchet. Torque the upper ball joint to 40 foot-pounds. Add an additional 90 degrees.
Reinstall the tie rod into the spindle. Start the nut. Tighten it with a 21 millimeter socket and ratchet. Torque the tie rod to 45 foot-pounds. Reinstall the harness into the keepers and the bottom of the control arm. Reinstall the connector.
Push down on the safety tab. Reinstall the rotor onto the hub. Make sure that you don't twist the line on your brake hose. Reinstall the caliper carrier assembly onto the rotor. Start the bolts on the back side. Tighten the bolts down with a 21 millimeter socket and ratchet. Torque the caliper bolts to 130 foot-pounds.
Reinstall your wheel and tire onto the vehicle. Start the lug nuts with a 22 millimeter socket. Get all the lug nuts as tight as you can in the air and lower the vehicle. After tightening your axle nut torque it to 185 foot-pounds. Pop the center cap back into place. Torque your lug nuts to 135 foot-pounds in a cross pattern.
Thanks for tuning in. We hope this video helped you out. Next time you need parts for your car, please visit 1AAuto.com. Also check out our other helpful how-to and diagnosis videos.
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