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How to Replace Front Sway Bar Links 06-11 Toyota Camry

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  1. step : Removing the Wheel (0:24)
    • Pry off the hub cap with a pry bar
    • Loosen the lug nuts with the vehicle on the ground
    • Raise and support the vehicle
    • Remove the lug nuts
    • Pull the wheel off the hub
  2. step : Removing the Sway Bar Link (1:15)
    • Spray rust penetrant on the upper sway bar link nut
    • Clean the upper sway bar link nut with a wire brush
    • Hold the upper sway bar link nut with a 6mm hex socket and breaker bar
    • Loosen the nut with a 17mm wrench
    • If the nut is stuck, hold the sway bar link ball joint with locking pliers if necessary
    • Remove the 17mm nut
    • If the nut remains stuck, cut the sway bar link stud with a hack saw or reciprocating saw
    • Hold the lower sway bar link ball joint with locking pliers
    • Remove the 17mm bolt from the lower sway bar link stud
    • Remove the sway bar link from the vehicle
  3. step : Installing the Sway Bar Link (7:54)
    • Hang the sway bar link where it attaches to the strut
    • Slide the sway bar link stud into sway bar
    • Start the 18mm nuts onto the sway bar link studs by hand
    • Hold the sway bar link ball joints with an 18mm wrench
    • Tighten the nuts with an 18mm socket and ratchet
    • Torque the 18mm nuts to 55 foot-pounds
  4. step : Installing the Wheel (8:52)
    • Slide the wheel onto the hub
    • Start the lug nuts by hand, with the tapered side facing the wheel
    • Tighten the lug nuts preliminarily
    • Lower the vehicle to the ground
    • Torque the lug nuts to 76 foot-pounds in a star pattern
    • Line up the hub cap with the valve stem
    • Push the hub cap onto the wheel

Hi. I'm Mike from 1AAuto. We've been selling auto parts for over 30 years!

Use a large pry bar or a flat bladed screw driver to remove the wheel cover. Just kind of slide it between the wheel and the plastic and pop it off. These lug nuts are a 21 millimeter socket. I'm going to use that and a breaker bar to loosen them while the vehicle's on the ground. Raise this part of the vehicle. We're using a two post lift, but you can use a jack and jack stands. The lug nuts are loose. I’m going to take my socket and finish removing them. I’m just going to hold onto the wheel and take the last lug nut off. It's going to be loose. You don't want to drop it. You can drop the lug nut. That's okay. You just don't want the wheel to fall.

I’m going to disconnect the sway bar link from the strut. Going to spray some rust penetrant on this upper sway bar mount. Use a wire brush to clean off some of the rusty bits. These can be difficult to take off, they get rusty and then the ball joint spins. It does have a hex spot here to put in a six millimeter hex drive. A lot of times that strips almost instantly as soon as you try to break it free ad you end up having to put vice grips behind to grab onto the ball joint, because there's no point here for a wrench. We’re going to do our best to get this one off without having to cut it off.

So this is 17 millimeter nut. Try to break it free first. See, it's turning, it's turning the whole ball joint with it. It's really tight. I’m trying to clean out any rust and dirt that's in this hex drive so I can get the hex drive to sit as far possible inside here, so it doesn't strip. Use some brake parts cleaner, I've sprayed some oil in there and I've been working the hex drive in to try to clean it out. I can see it's going in a little deeper, trying to get this sit as best I can. That's as far as it will go. Spray some more rust penetrant on there. I'm going to try to counter hold this hex drive while I free it with the 17 millimeter boxed wrench. We'll see how this goes. Sometimes you have to brace that against like the strut ad these just have so much – see, it's moving. That's good. It's really tight, though, so I'm just going to put that there. I'm going to spray some more rust penetrant.

These are typically self-locking nuts, so they're a little bit, they're not perfectly round. They're kind of oblong and that can make removing them difficult and also the rust gets gummed up in the threads. So I'm trying to spin this on and off to try to work the rust penetrant into the threads. So as I kind of expected, working these back and forth this hex drive they basically always strip. It's nearly impossible to remove them without these stripping, no matter what you do. So the next step I'm going to get some vice grips and try to hold the ball joint back here and use a 17 millimeter socket and ratchet and continue to remove this nut.

I’m going to try to slide these locking pliers behind the ball joint on the sway bar link. I’ve got a 17 millimeter deep socket on this longer ratchet, going to try to remove these. It feels like it's turning. One thing to mention if you're going to have to remove sway bar links for any reason or think you're going to have to remove them for any reason, you should have new ones on hand. They're almost a one-time use part.

If you're as lucky as us, you'll have to resort to power tools or a hacksaw to cut these sway bar links free. I'll do my best to avoid the strut, I don't want to damage that. I just want to kind of cut on the – going to try to find the narrowest part of the ball joint and the sway bar link. I think I'm on there.

I've actually gone in here. Because these sway bar links get seized on here so easily, I went in and cut the boot away, the rubber boot. So that I can get locking pliers in here to get a better grip on it and it's kind of working by holding it. I'm able to turn the nut out. Worst case if I get loose enough and it just keeps spinning, then I will take a saw and cut it right here. But I'm going to keep trying it right now with the locking pliers. Got it.

Here are our old sway bar links from our vehicle. You can see where I had to cut them. I was able to finally get this one out, but still, these have been destroyed by trying to remove them and you can see they're kind of rounded here. There's no real way to counter hold them to remove the bolts. They are supposed to have a hex drive in here. That strips out pretty quickly when you're trying to remove them.

Here's a brand new sway bar link this is from These actually have a six-point on them so you can put a wrench on here and tighten them down and it's not going to spin on you and when you want to remove them to do other services, you can put your wrench over here and spin this off without destroying the ball joint and the sway bar link. So this should fit great and work great in your vehicle.

Put these up. Get this one up top. You can bend these around. Slide it through. These nuts are locking nuts, so the hole is not perfectly round. It's kind of oblong. So when this starts to tighten it will lock and it won't want to back off.

These nuts are 18 millimeter get this one set up here. The counter hold on the back is 18 millimeters. I'm going to use a deep socket 18 millimeter in the front. Get these snugged down and I'll come back and torque them. Torque for these sway bar links is 55 foot-pounds, and repeat it on the other nut.

Reinstall our wheel. It’s important to note these lug nuts have a taper. Taper meets the wheel and matches the inside of the wheel. Don't install them on the flat side like this; that is incorrect. Install them with the taper to the wheel. It helps locate the wheel on the lug nut stud. I'm just using the socket and ratchet to bring these down snug before I put the car on the ground. Torque the lug nuts to 76 foot-pounds, going in a cross pattern. Reinstall the hub cap. You’ve got to line up the opening for the valve stem with the valve stem on the wheel. Just push it in place.

Thanks for watching. Visit us at for quality auto parts, fast and free shipping, and the best customer service in the industry.

Tools needed for replacement:

    General Tools

  • Jack Stands
  • Reciprocating Saw
  • Wire Brush
  • Floor Jack

  • Hex Wrenches

  • 6mm Allen Wrench

  • Materials, Fluids, and Supplies

  • Rust Penetrant
  • Brake Parts Cleaner

  • Pliers, Cutters & misc Wrenches

  • Vise Grip Pliers

  • Ratchets & Related

  • Socket Extensions
  • Torque Wrench
  • Ratchet
  • 1/2 Inch Breaker Bar

  • Screwdrivers & Related

  • Pry Bar

  • Sockets - Metric

  • 17mm Socket
  • 18mm Socket
  • 21mm Socket

  • Wrenches - Metric

  • 17mm Wrench
  • 18mm Wrench
  • 21mm wrench

2007 - 2011  Toyota  Camry
2007 - 2008  Toyota  Camry
2007 - 2008  Lexus  ES350
2004 - 2006  Toyota  Camry
2004 - 2008  Toyota  Solara
2004 - 2006  Lexus  ES330
2004 - 2006  Lexus  RX330
2006 - 2007  Lexus  RX400h
2007 - 2008  Lexus  RX350
2001 - 2007  Toyota  Highlander
2002 - 2006  Toyota  Camry
2002 - 2003  Lexus  ES300
2002 - 2003  Toyota  Camry
2003 - 2008  Toyota  Matrix
2003 - 2008  Pontiac  Vibe
2005 - 2018  Toyota  Avalon
2002 - 2017  Toyota  Camry
2007 - 2018  Lexus  ES350
2013 - 2018  Lexus  ES300h
2003 - 2008  Toyota  Corolla
2005 - 2010  Scion  tC
2004 - 2007  Toyota  Highlander
2003 - 2006  Toyota  Matrix
2003 - 2006  Pontiac  Vibe
2003 - 2013  Toyota  Corolla
2003 - 2013  Toyota  Matrix
2009 - 2013  Toyota  Matrix
2009 - 2013  Toyota  Corolla
2004 - 2009  Toyota  Prius
2001 - 2003  Toyota  Highlander
2009 - 2016  Toyota  Venza
2010 - 2015  Lexus  RX350
2010 - 2015  Lexus  RX450h
2008 - 2018  Toyota  Highlander
2006 - 2008  Lexus  RX400h
2007 - 2009  Lexus  RX350
2004 - 2013  Toyota  Highlander
2010 - 2016  Toyota  Venza
2009 - 2010  Pontiac  Vibe
1996 - 1997  Toyota  Rav4
1998 - 2000  Toyota  Rav4
2007 - 2008  Toyota  Matrix
2007 - 2008  Pontiac  Vibe
2004 - 2010  Toyota  Sienna
2010 - 2012  Lexus  RX450h
2013 - 2019  Lexus  RX450h
2008 - 2019  Toyota  Highlander
2010 - 2012  Lexus  RX350
2018 - 2019  Lexus  RX450hL
2018 - 2019  Lexus  RX350L
2013 - 2019  Lexus  RX350
2006 - 2009  Lexus  RX400h
2011 - 2018  Toyota  Sienna
2001 - 2003  Toyota  Prius
2007 - 2017  Toyota  Camry
2013 - 2018  Toyota  Avalon
2013 - 2018  Lexus  ES350
2014 - 2014  Toyota  Corolla
2017 - 2017  Toyota  Corolla
2016 - 2016  Toyota  Corolla
2015 - 2017  Toyota  Corolla
2014 - 2017  Toyota  Corolla
2014 - 2016  Toyota  Corolla
2008 - 2010  Toyota  Highlander
2005 - 2012  Toyota  Avalon
2011 - 2012  Toyota  Avalon
2005 - 2010  Toyota  Avalon
2013 - 2014  Toyota  Venza
2008 - 2013  Toyota  Highlander
2013 - 2016  Toyota  Venza
2007 - 2012  Toyota  Avalon
2006 - 2006  Toyota  Avalon
2007 - 2012  Lexus  ES350
2013 - 2014  Toyota  Camry
2013 - 2017  Toyota  Camry
2013 - 2017  Toyota  Avalon
2006 - 2012  Toyota  Avalon
2004 - 2011  Toyota  Camry
2009 - 2013  Toyota  Venza
2007 - 2013  Toyota  Camry
2010 - 2013  Lexus  RX350
2003 - 2009  Lexus  GX470
2003 - 2009  Toyota  4Runner
2007 - 2019  Lexus  RX350
2010 - 2019  Lexus  RX450h
2001 - 2019  Toyota  Highlander
2003 - 2010  Pontiac  Vibe
2001 - 2009  Toyota  Prius
2003 - 2014  Toyota  Matrix
2003 - 2018  Toyota  Corolla
2010 - 2019  Lexus  RX350
2011 - 2019  Toyota  Sienna
2018 - 2018  Lexus  RX450hL

03-08 Toyota Matrix; Pontiac Vibe FWD Front Steering & Suspension Kit (10 Piece)

2003-08 Toyota Matrix Pontiac Vibe Steering & Suspension Kit 10 Piece Set DIY Solutions SUS03888

This part replaces:

  • Hollander 512-50391R
  • Hollander 512-50392L
  • Hollander 512-58639R
  • Hollander 512-58640L
  • Dorman 520-449
  • Dorman 520-450
  • Moog ES3713
  • Moog EV800058
  • Moog K80595
  • Moog RK640360
  • Moog RK640361
  • Beck Arnley 103-3068
  • OE # 4806913010
  • OE # 4806813010
  • OE # 4806802021
  • OE # 4806820390
  • OE # 4806902021
  • OE # 4806920390

Part Details

  • Kit Includes: (2) Front Lower Ball Joints
  • Kit Includes: (2) Front Outer Tie Rods
  • Kit Includes: (2) Front Lower Control Arms
  • Quantity: 10 Piece Set
  • Kit Includes: (2) Steering Rack & Pinion Bellows
  • Kit Includes: (2) Front Inner Tie Rods
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If the ABS pump engages and the brake pedal presses further than usual and pumps soft and hard, engaging the antilock brakes, this video has a solution

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