How to Replace Front Lower Rearward Control Arm 2002-09 Audi A4
Created on: 2016-06-20
How to repair, install, fix, change or replace failing, rusted, rotted, or damaged front upper control arms on 03, 04, 05, 06, 07, 08 Audi A4
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step 1 :Removing the Skid Plate
- Remove the plastic clips from the skid plate bumper with a flat blade screwdriver
- Remove the Phillips head screws from the skid plate
- Pull the skid plate down and off
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step 2 :Removing the Wheel
- Remove the center cap with a pick tool
- Loosen the 17mm lug bolts with the vehicle on the ground
- Raise and support the vehicle
- Remove the lug bolts
- Pull off the wheel and tire
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step 3 :Removing the Lower Rearward Control Arm
- Soak the control arm bolts in penetrating oil
- Loosen the 18mm bolt and nut at the frame end of the control arm
- Remove the 18mm wrench from the top of the ball joint
- Use a pickle fork and hammer to separate the control arm from the spindle
- Remove the 10mm nut from the brake line cover
- Pull the brake line cover out of the way
- Remove the 18mm bolt from the frame end of the control arm
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step 4 :Installing the Lower Rearward Control Arm
- Put the control arm into place on the frame
- Thread the 18mm bolt and nut onto the frame end of the control arm
- Insert the ball joint into the spindle
- Start the 18mm nut onto the ball joint
- Torque the nut to 81 foot-pounds
- Lift the spindle to normal ride height with a jack
- Tighten the 18mm bolt and nut at the frame end of the control arm
- Torque the 18mm bolt to 52 foot-pounds
- Push the brake line cover into place
- Fasten the 10mm nut onto the brake line cover
- Lower the jack from the spindle
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step 5 :Reinstalling the Wheel
- Start one lug bolt into the wheel
- Lift the wheel into place
- Start the first lug bolt by hand
- Insert the lug bolts into the wheel
- Lower the vehicle to the ground
- Tighten the lug bolts to 90 foot-pounds in a crossing or star pattern
- Line up the center cap using the slots
- Push the center cap into place
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step 6 :Reinstalling the Skid Plate
- Lift the skid plate into place
- Insert the plastic fasteners into the skid plate
- Insert the two Phillips head screws into the skid plate
Tools needed
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Socket Extensions
Torque Wrench
Hammer
Rust Penetrant
17mm Socket
Jack Stands
18mm Socket
Pick
Pickle Fork
Flat Blade Screwdriver
Phillips Head Screwdriver
10mm Socket
Ratchet
Floor Jack
1/2 Inch Breaker Bar
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we're going to show you how to replace the lower rearward control arm in this 2007 Audi A4.
You'll need a Phillips and flat blade screwdriver, 90-degree pick or center camp removal tool, 10 to 18 millimeter sockets with a ratchet and extensions along with wrenches the same size, penetrating oil, a hammer, pickle fork, torque wrench, and jack and jack stands.
Remove the quarter turn flat blade fasteners at the bottom of the bumper, normally there are three here, and there's several underneath. A lot of these bumpers are missing these fasteners. They become cracked, damaged, lost, and what have you, so just find all the ones you can. There’s a few more at the back. A couple of Philips – occasionally these are torx – are at the front of the wheel wells. Remove the screws inside the wheel well to allow you to remove the belly pan from the bottom of the car.
Using a 90 degree hooked pick, remove the center cap from your wheel. We also have the actual Audi tool for moving the center cap available on 1Aauto.com. Crack your lug nuts lose with a 17 mm socket and a breaker bar. With the vehicle raised and supported remove your lug bolts the rest of the way and take the wheel off.
Just to give you a heads up before you get started, we've been soaking the sub frame bolts for the rear of the lower control arms in penetrating oil for three or four days now, these bolts are very, very prone to being stuck, rusted, and frozen into the bushings, so we recommend if you can if your control arms have a little bit of time that you begin to soak these let it get in there for a few days, soak them in there every night or before you go to work and let them work in there over a couple days. It'll really make this process easier for you when the time comes to change them.
Using an 18 millimeter breaker bar and socket on the bolt end, and an 18 millimeter box end wrench on the nut, break the bolt loose. With the bolt loose in the subframe, but not removed, use the 18 millimeter wrench to remove the nut on the top of the ball joint. Be careful not to put any downward pressure on the control arm while you're doing this. If it pops out of the spindle, then the nut is just going to spin and it's going to be a lot harder to move.
Using the pickle fork, keeping it up tight to the spindle, remove the lower control arm. Remove the bolt at the back of the control arm.
Remove the 10 millimeter nut with a socket and ratchet, from this brake line cover. Pull the cover out of the way. Remove the bolt in the lower control arm from the subframe.
Install your new control arm. Line up the bolt at the rear. Be sure not to tighten the bolt through the bushing until the control arm is installed in the spindle and you have the vehicle's weight on the suspension. Reinstall the rearward lower control arm into the spindle. Install the nut. If you can get a torque wrench in there, torque to 81 foot-pounds.
Using the screw jack if you're on a lift or a floor jack if you're working with a jack and jack stands, load up the bottom of the spindle until the suspension is in the normal right height position. When the screw jack or floor jack begins to lift the vehicle by the suspension you've reached the highest point. The lowest point is with the suspension hanging. Your normal ride height will be in the middle of those two.
Tighten the rear control arm with an 18 millimeter socket and ratchet and wrench. Torque the bolt to 52 foot-pounds. Reinstall the plastic cover over the brake lines and the 10 millimeter nut. Remove the weight of the vehicle from the suspension.
Reinstall the wheel onto the hub. It helps if you send a lug bolt through and hold it with a 17 mm socket on the other side. Start the first bolt by hand to help keep the wheel in place. Torque the lug bolts to 90 foot-pounds in a cross pattern. The slots on the back of the lug cap are staggered be sure to align them before installing.
Reinstall your lower engine cover. Reinstall whatever fasteners you had to remove for the belly pan. In our case they're mostly quarter turn flat blades. Yours may be secured with something different.
Thanks for tuning in. We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
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