How to Replace Front Backing Plates 2005-10 Chrysler 300
Created on: 2017-01-17
How to remove and replace a rusted, broken, or stuck brake backing plate on 05, 06, 07, 08, 09, 10 Chrysler 300.
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step 1 :Removing the Wheel
- Loosen the lug nuts with the vehicle on the ground
- Raise the vehicle with a floor jack
- Secure the vehicle on jack stands
- Remove the lug nuts
- Pull off the wheel
-
step 2 :Removing the Brake Pads
- Remove the two 13mm bolts from the caliper bracket
- Pull the caliper off
- Put the caliper aside
- Pry the brake pads off with a flat blade screwdriver
-
step 3 :Removing the Brake Rotor
- Remove the two 18mm bolts from the caliper bracket
- Pull off the brake caliper bracket
- Strike the drum surface of the rotor with a hammer to loosen the rotor
- Pull the rotor off
- Clean the hub surface with a wire brush
-
step 4 :Removing the Hub Assembly
- Tap between the hub and dust cover with a hammer and chisel
- Remove the dust cover
- Remove the 35mm center nut
- Remove the wheel hub and bearing
-
step 5 :Removing the Backing Plate
- Remove the three 10mm bolts
- Remove the backing plate
-
step 6 :Installing the Backing Plate
- Insert the backing plate into place
- Tighten the three 10mm bolts
-
step 7 :Installing the Hub Assembly
- Insert the wheel hub into the spindle
- Install the 35mm nut
- Torque the nut to 184 foot-pounds
- Install the dust shield
-
step 8 :Installing the Brake Rotor
- Apply grease to the hub surface
- Put the rotor onto the hub backwards
- Spray the rear of the hub with brake cleaner
- Pull off the brake rotor
- Slide the brake rotor on
- Spray the front of the rotor with brake cleaner
- Put the caliper bracket into place
- Insert the two 18mm bolts into the caliper bracket
- Tighten the two 18mm bolts to 70 foot-pounds of torque
-
step 9 :Installing the Brake Pads
- Put the brake pads into the caliper bracket
- Apply grease to the back of the brake pads
- Push back the caliper piston with grove lock pliers
- Put the brake caliper into place
- Insert the two 13mm bolts into the caliper
- Tighten the two 13mm bolts to 44 foot-pounds of torque
-
step 10 :Reattaching the Wheel
- Slide the wheel into place
- Start the lug nuts by hand
- Tighten the lug nuts preliminarily
- Lower the vehicle to the ground
- Tighten the lug nuts to 110 foot-pounds in a crossing or star pattern
Tools needed
-
35mm Socket
Socket Extensions
Torque Wrench
Hammer
Jack Stands
Gloves
Rubber Mallet
Flat Blade Screwdriver
Paper Towels
Bungee Cord
Chisel
Ratchet
Wire Brush
Floor Jack
1/2 Inch Breaker Bar
Complete Metric Socket Set
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In this video we're going to be working with our 2006 Chrysler 300 3.5 liter rear-wheel drive. We're going to show you how to remove and replace the front disc brake backing plate, which is that dust shield that prevents dirt and debris from kicking up onto your rotors.
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Here are the items you'll need for this repair: full metric socket set, ratchet, socket extensions, 35mm socket, breaker bar, torque wrench, small chisel, hammer, rubber mallet, groove jaw pliers, bungee cord, jack, jack stand
Using a 21 mm socket and a breaker bar, loosen all of your lug nuts about one turn. Raise and support your vehicle. We're using a lift to make it easier to show you what's going on, but this job can easily be done at home with a jack and jack stands. Remove your lug nuts the rest of the way by hand. Remove your wheel and tire.
Remove the two 13 millimeter bolts securing the caliper to the bracket. We'll do this using a 13 millimeter socket and ratchet. Remove the caliper and, using a bungee cord, zip tie, or mechanics wire, hang it up out of the way. Remove the pads. Remove the two 18-millimeter caliper bracket bolts with an 18-millimeter socket and ratchet. Be sure to crack both of these loose before removing either one fully. Remove the caliper carrier and remove the rotor.
Using a small chisel and a small hammer, we'll tap in between the hub and discover once you get it moving just rotate it and work your way around until this dust cover. Once you've got it moving, angle the chisel so it knocks it out.
Using a 35mm socket and a breaker bar, and depending on the length of your breaker bar, you may have also want to use a cheater pipe. Remove the center nut. Once you've got it cracked loose, you can remove the cheater pipe and finish removing the nut from the spindle. Remove the wheel hub and bearing from the vehicle.
Now, our backing plate's not that bad. However, one that's all rotted out, broken, or dented could drag against the back of the rotor and make some pretty awful noise. So, to remove it, we'll remove these three 10mm bolts with a socket and ratchet. Once the bolts are out, remove the backing plate from the spindle.
Install your new backing plate, along with the three 10 mm bolts. Get all those started by hand to make sure that they are aligned properly, then tighten them down with your 10 mm socket and ratchet.
Install your new wheel bearing and hub assembly onto the spindle. Try to get it on there nice and even and straight, and that it bottoms out completely. Start your 35mm nut. We'll use the socket and breaker bar for this since it has a nylon lock on the end of the threads. It's not going to be something we can install by hand. We'll then torque the nut to 184 foot-pounds.
Install the dust shield. It helps to use a rubber hammer or a dead blow when installing these. If you don't have access to one, use a screwdriver and gently tap around the edges with a regular hammer.
Apply a thin coat of brake grease to the hub surface. Be sure to get the flat surface as well as the bore. This will prevent our rotor from getting frozen onto the hub. Install the rotor onto the hub backwards, and spray it down with some brake cleaner. This removes the coating they used to prevent the surfaces from rusting while these parts are in storage. We'll flip it around and spray that down too.
Now, this next step isn't entirely necessary, but if you have access to an old axle nut or some other type of large spacer. You can put it over the wheel stud and tighten the lug nut down to it to keep the rotor straight while we install the rest of our components. Reinstall the caliper bracket and the two 18mm bolts which we'll tighten down with our 18mm socket and ratchet, and then tighten to 70 foot-pounds.
Install your new brake pads in the caliper carrier, and grease the backsides of the shims with a thin coat of brake grease. Remove the caliper from whatever you used to secure it. Using a pair of groove jaw pliers, slowly compress the caliper piston. Reinstall the caliper and the two 13mm bolts securing the caliper to the guide pins. Using your 13mm socket and a torque wrench, torque the caliper bolts to 44 foot-pounds.
Remove the wheel lug as well as the axle nut, if you used this method, and reinstall your wheel and tire. Get all five of your 21 mm lug nuts on as tight as you can by hand. Lower the partial weight of your vehicle back onto the tires. Torque your lug nuts to 110 foot-pounds in a cross pattern.
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