Created on: 2016-12-09
How to remove, replace, install broken, rusted, or stuck brake backing plate on 2001 Ford Ranger.
Socket Extensions
Flat Blade Screwdriver
Torque Wrench
15mm Socket
Jack Stands
8mm Socket
19mm Socket
Bungee Cord
Ratchet
Floor Jack
1/2 Inch Breaker Bar
Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. We're dedicated to delivering quality auto parts, expert customer service, fast and free shipping, all backed by our 100% satisfaction guarantee. Visit us at 1AAuto.com, your trusted source for quality auto parts.
In this video, we're going to be working with our 2001 Ford Ranger. We're going to show you how to remove and replace the backing plate, or dust shield, for your front brake rotor on a four-wheel drive truck. If you like this video, please click subscribe. We have a ton more information on this and many other vehicles. If you need any parts for your vehicle, you can follow the link down in the description over to 1AAuto.com. Here are the items you'll need for this repair.
Using a taped flat-blade screwdriver, locate the relief cuts in the hub cap. Stick the screwdriver in, and pry out to release it from the wheel. This particular truck has a wheel lock on it, so we'll need the wheel lock key in order to remove it. Otherwise, the rest of the nuts come off with a 19 millimeter socket and breaker bar. Simply crack them loose for now, and then raise and support your vehicle and remove the lug nuts the rest of the way.Remove the wheel from the vehicle.
Remove the two 15 millimeter bolts securing the caliper bracket to the spindle. Be sure to crack both of these loose before removing either one fully. Using a bungee cord, mechanics wire, or zip tie, secure the entire caliper bracket and assembly up out of your way. Remove your rotor. Remove the three 8 millimeter bolts on the backing plate with a socket and ratchet.
Reinstall your backing plate, and start the 8 millimeter screws. Our old backing plate isn't that bad, so we're just going to reinstall it, but your new backing plate will go on exactly the same. Tighten up the 8 millimeter screws. Reinstall your rotor.
One trick I like to use is taking an old axle nut and placing it over one of the wheel studs, putting a lug nut on hand tight. This keeps the rotor upright while we install our caliper carrier and makes it that much easier. Unhang your caliper from whatever it is you hung it from. Reinstall all of it over the rotor. Reinstall your two 15 millimeter bolts. Tighten down the hardware with a socket and ratchet. Torque the bolts to 85 foot-pounds. Remove the lug nut and axle nut from your rotor.
Reinstall your wheel and tire. Start your lug nuts by hand. Torque the lug nuts to 100 foot pounds in a cross pattern. Reinstall your center cap, and you're good to go.
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