How to Replace Engine Oil 2014-19 Audi SQ5

Hi, I’m Mike from 1A Auto. We’ve been selling auto parts for over 30 years!

Our 2015 SQ5 does not have an oil dipstick to check the oil. You get the vehicle parked on level ground. The engine was just at operating temperature. We've parked it and let it sit for a few minutes. I'm going to press and turn the ignition on, just once. I'm not going to start the vehicle.

To check the oil level, you need to use the MMI screen. So we're going to navigate using the joystick to the car. And we're going to go into the menu here. Oil level and actually the oil level is at minimum. So this vehicle needs to have oil added. When it's at minimum, it takes about a quart to bring it to maximum. So we'd add the correct amount of oil and then come back in the car and recheck it to see if it's full.

To open the hood, slide in front of you, go underneath, pull this release right here. That'll pop the hood. Secondary safety release is right here, just reach in with your hand. Squeeze it up and then lift the hood up. It's on struts. Oil filter is located at the top of the engine. I'm going to loosen the oil filter cap. It's a cartridge filer inside here, and by loosening that, there's a drain back valve so that you don't starve the engine of oil on a cold start.

By loosening this, it's going to allow the drain back valve to open, and the oil that's in this filter will drain down into the pan, and then I can drain the remainder of it out of the pan. But for now, I'm just going to loosen it. I'm not going to remove it. I'm using a 36 millimeter axle nut socket. This one is 12 point, you can use a six point. This shouldn't be very hard to remove. I'm going to use a half inch ratchet and just break it free. Just a couple turns. That should do the trick. Now I can come back and remove it later by hand.

Raise and support the vehicle and drain the oil from underneath. Before I can get to the oil pan, I need to remove this front underbody splash shield, air guide, whatever you want to call it. I'm going to unbolt it and take it out of the way. There are three Phillip's head. They're sort of these cam-lock screws in the rear. I'm just going to turn them about a half a turn and they'll unlock. They won't fall out, but they will unlock.

Now I need to remove the T25 torx bolts. They're along the front. Nine of them. These will unscrew and I put them aside. You can use a T25 socket or, if you have a T25 driver. Along the edge of this shield, there's three more of these Phillips head sort of cam-lock things, so unscrew them. They'll actually stay in place but they've got like a little cam that sort of locks them in. So, it's been raining, there's some water up in here, so I'm just holding it away from me. And I'm going to do the same on the passenger side. Remove these Phillips head cam-lock. And then we'll put this aside.

Put our drain pan in place. Drain plug is right here in the pan. This is your electronic oil level sensor. I'm using a six millimeter hex drive or Allen key on the end of a breaker bar, and I'm just going to loosen it. Come out. Reach in here with my hand and grab it. You can let this drain for as long as you want, but I'm satisfied that it's pretty much empty.

So I'm going to reinstall the drain plug with a new crush gasket. Get it started by hand, take my breaker bar. I'll tighten it down. Just going to tighten it until I feel the crush gasket squish down. And that's tight. I'll wipe off all the oil that spilled. This way if there are any leaks, I'll be able to tell. Now we're finished under here. We'll put our cover back up. Slide these tabs up under the bumper. Make sure they all go in. Push that up into place. I've got it caught in the front of the bumper.

Now I'll get these caught by just turning them in, those little cam-locks, they'll lock in place. So one is still in here, I'll push it up into place, and get it lined up. It'll lock in. Same for this one. So, repeat that for the other side.

Reinstall all of our torx screws right along the edge of the bumper and just do this for all of them. Once they get tight, just stop. Here's the last one.

Now I can go up top to change the oil filter. This is the messy part. I have a rag handy. Finish removing the cap that I've already loosened. Just keep spinning it off by hand. Cap is going to bring the filter with it and grab it with a rag. Because we allowed it to drain out, it wasn't a huge mess. This will separate just like that.

There is a replaceable O-ring gasket inside this oil filter cap. And it might be hard to see in there, but there's a little piece of rubber sticking up from the seal. So I need to reach down in with needle nose pliers and pull that out. Just take the seal right out and put that aside. You may need to put oil on here, but there's plenty of oil inside this cap, so I'm not worried about getting oil on the seal to make it slide in easier. There's no orientation to it other than keeping this tab to the top.

We're going to feed this down into place. And you might need two fingers to push it in there. It should slide right in, because there's plenty of oil lubricating it. Perfect.

Take our new replacement filter, place it down on here. Now install it in the vehicle. Right down in the opening and thread it in. You might have to push it down a little bit. Okay. Torque is actually listed right on the cap. It's upside down so it might be hard to read, but it's 25 newton meters, plus 5. I've converted it to foot-pounds, it's 18.4, then it's plus to that would be 22 foot pounds. I'm just going to start with 18 foot pounds and then the plus five which makes it roughly 22 foot pounds should be plenty.

You might need to thread it down by hand to get it started and seated. Alright, that's starting to get tight. That's it there. Turn it up to 22 foot-pounds, add a little bit more. So, that's perfect. We need to add our new oil in. Open up the oil cap by unscrewing it. It's a little cam-lock. It'll pop right off. Put my funnel in. This engine takes 6.8 liters. I've got a jug here that has five liters in it and I've got two additional liters. What I'm going to do is fill it with about six and a half liters, then I will start the vehicle, check the oil level via the MMI screen, and add more as necessary. You don't want to overfill this, so that's why I'm starting with 6.5 quarts, and then I'll gradually add it until I get to that 6.8.

I've emptied this five liter jug. Now I'm going to add a liter and a half and then check it. So I'm just going to add about half of this liter. Perfect. Now I'll take the funnel out, put the cap back on and I'll start the vehicle for a minute or so, then I'll let it sit, let the oil drain back down to the pan, and check the level. I'm going to start the vehicle up. I'll let it idle for a short amount of time. That should be good. Shut it off. I've let the car sit so I'm just going to turn the ignition on. I go into car systems. Go to service and checks. Go to oil level. So it does tell me over here in this screen the oil level is okay. It's not quite at the max level, so I want to make sure it's at the max level since I just filled it.

So I'm going to add a little bit more to top it off. Full would have been ten tenths, so there's nine marks. So it says it takes six point eight, so I'm just going to pour it until I have this much left. Perfect. Take my funnel out, reinstall the cap. Now I can start the car again and double check the level. To check the oil level, I'm going to turn just the ignition on.

Hit the start button once. Navigate over to car, looking for service and checks, car systems, oil level. You may have to wait two minutes. Now we can see it's at the max level. So it tells you on this screen, it also tells you in the center display. So our oil change is now complete. We also have a service reminder coming up, so we're going to back out and under car systems, we'll go down to service intervals. And we're going to hit reset, yes, and that will shut off the service reminder. And your oil change is complete. Shut the vehicle off.

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