How to Replace Engine Intake 2005-10 Chrysler 300

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In this video we're going to be working with our 2006 Chrysler 300. This is a 3.5-liter V6 that we're going to show you how to remove the engine's intake on. This is all the way from the intake boot at the throttle body, down under the bumper into the air baffle or silencer, also known as the air trap, which is the lowest point of your air system.

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Here are the items you'll need for this repair: trim removal tool, full metric socket set, ratchet, socket extensions, full metric wrench set, flat blade screwdriver

Disconnect the breather hose from the engine side of your air box. Use a flat blade screwdriver to loosen up the intake tube clamp. Remove that from the air box lid. Pry back on the two tabs. Lift up and pull forward to remove the lid of the air box. Remove your air filter, and this is actually a bolt that we installed because our vehicle came with an aftermarket intake on it. We just used a 10 millimeter bolt that I found around the shop to secure it; yours may be different. We'll use a 10 millimeter socket and ratchet to remove ours. Feels like we'll need a 10 millimeter wrench to secure the nut on the bottom. Remove your nut and bolt, lift up, and remove the bottom of the air box.

Remove the hose clamp at the top of the intake tube as well. Pull that off, and our intake air temp sensor has been glued into the connector by the previous owner. You can disconnect your connector, or since we need this sensor for our new intake anyway, we'll simply pop it out and place it off to the side for now. Remove the three push pin connectors on the inside of each wheel well at the bumper. We've removed the wheel to make it easier to show you what's going on, but this can definitely be done with the wheel still attached to the vehicle. We're going to use our trim tool from 1A Auto and pry up the center portion of the tab, then get behind the base of it and pop it out.

Now, our vehicle has been modified. This isn't the bumper that belongs on it, and it was also lowered substantially, so our wheel wells are in pretty rough shape. We have a lot of pins missing, along with our belly pan. Using a 10 millimeter socket, ratchet, and extension remove the 10 millimeter bolts securing the corner of the bumper to the fender. Normally there would be an air dam or belly pan located here at the bottom of the bumper and reaching back under the motor. However, our vehicle was lowered substantially and this pan has either been ripped off or removed. The fasteners go along the front of the bumper and then there are a couple of, looks like they used to be 10 millimeters that secure it to the sub frames, as well as some of those push pin type connectors we showed you earlier in the wheel wells.

Now, this isn't the original bumper for this vehicle, and no one hooked up the side markers when it was installed, so you'll want to disconnect those. There'll be this little connector over here under your side marker. You'll also want to disconnect the connector on your fog lights if your vehicle is equipped. Simply lift up on these two tabs and then pull back. Using a trim tool, we'll remove the same four push pin style connectors that we found in our wheel well, only these go along the top of the bumper. If you're performing this procedure on a Magnum, which is the station wagon, there will be six of these, where Chargers have eight. You can now pull the bumper straight out and off of the vehicle.

Here we have an intake baffle and some of the ducting for the factory air box. This 10 millimeter screw holds it all in place, so we'll remove that with a 10 millimeter socket and ratchet. Once that screw is out, grab the baffling at the bottom forward corner and pull forward and down to remove it from the intake.

Reinstall the air track at the bottom of the vehicle, as well as the bolt at the back. Reinstall the lower portion of the air box, and again, our vehicle was modified so we'll need to install the bolt, washer, and nut that I found from around the shop. Again, yours will be different, but I have to tighten my air box down with a 10 millimeter socket, ratchet, and wrench.

Reinstall your air filter and the lid of the air box by sliding the back of the hinges in. Snapping the front into place. Reinstall the intake tube. Your vehicle will just need the air temp sensor plugged in. Ours is glued on, so we have to push it back into the intake tube. Tighten down your hose clamps with a flat blade screwdriver. Reinstall your breather line. Set your bumper back on. Watch out for the headlights and the fenders. Align the top holes where these plastic pins came out, and we're just going to install them for now. Don't push the actual tab down; we're just doing this to keep it in place while we line up our sides.

On either side of your bumper you'll notice you have these slotted tabs, and this opening for your bolt. These slots are going to line up to those little rounded tabs you can see on the bottom of your fender. Slide them in and snap them on. Once you have both of the corners of your bumper set into place, go ahead and push down the middle of your plastic retaining pins to secure the top of the bumper. Reinstall your 10 millimeter bolt in the top corner of each fender. Tighten that down with your 10 millimeter socket and ratchet.

Now, there is a little bit of give to these, so if you're not happy with where the corner of your bumper's lined up, you can push it into place and hold it there while you finish tightening your bolt.

Install the plastic pins in your fender liner. You should have three on each side. We're missing some, so I'm going to put two on each. Once your retainers are locked in, repeat these steps on the opposite side. Reconnect the fog light connectors on both sides, and reconnect the side markers. Once again, ours aren't actually connected to anything. We're going to have to fix that later, but yours should just plug right back in. Have you close that red safety tab. After that, you'll reinstall the belly pan or air dam, which is missing from our vehicle. Yours should have these screws all the way along the front, as well as four in the sub frame, and three plastic pins in each wheel well.

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How to Replace Engine Intake 2005-10 Chrysler 300

step 1 :Removing the Air Box and Intake Hose

step 2 :Removing the Bumper Cover

step 3 :Removing the Baffle

step 4 :Installing the Baffle

step 5 :Installing the Air Box and Intake Hose

step 6 :Installing the Bumper Cover

Tools needed

Lights Fans Radio Not Working in Your Car How Electric Circuits Work

How to Replace Engine Intake 2005-10 Chrysler 300

step 1 :Removing the Air Box and Intake Hose 1:00

step 2 :Removing the Bumper Cover 2:30

step 3 :Removing the Baffle 5:06

step 4 :Installing the Baffle 5:36

step 5 :Installing the Air Box and Intake Hose 5:53

step 6 :Installing the Bumper Cover 7:05

Tools needed

Lights Fans Radio Not Working in Your Car How Electric Circuits Work

step 1 :Removing the Air Box and Intake Hose

step 2 :Removing the Bumper Cover

step 3 :Removing the Baffle

step 4 :Installing the Baffle

step 5 :Installing the Air Box and Intake Hose

step 6 :Installing the Bumper Cover