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How to Replace EGR Valve 1998-2012 Ford Ranger

Created on: 2016-09-15

Watch this video and learn how to replace the EGR valve yourself by following along with our experts

  1. step 1 :Removing the Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) Valve
    • Apply rust penetrant to the exhaust gas tube
    • Remove the Loosen the 27mm nut on the exhaust gas tube
    • Disconnect the exhaust tube from the EGR valve
    • Remove the vacuum hose from the EGR valve
    • Remove the two 10mm bolts from the EGR valve
    • Pull off the EGR valve
  2. step 2 :Installing the EGR Valve
    • Scrape any gasket residue with a razor blade off the EGR mounting surface
    • Start the two 10mm bolts into the EGR valve
    • Put the EGR valve into place
    • Tighten the two 10mm bolts to 15 foot-pounds of torque
    • Connect the vacuum hose to the EGR valve
    • Put the exhaust gas tube into place
    • Tighten the 27mm nut on the exhaust hose
    • Start the engine
    • Check for exhaust leaks

Tools needed

  • Razor Blade / Gasket Scraper

    27mm socket

    Torque Wrench

    Rust Penetrant

    10mm Socket

    Ratchet

Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.

Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.

In this video, we're going to be working with our 2001 Ford Ranger 4.0 liter V6. We're going to show you how to remove and replace your EGR or exhaust gas recirculation valve. What it does, is when it's needed vacuum pulls on this actuator and opens a valve that allows exhaust gas to circulate back into the intake and lower combustion temperatures inside of the engine.

High combustion temperatures create a harmful emission called NOx. To reduce these emissions, we recirculate the exhaust gasses into the intake to lower these temperatures when power and efficiency out of our engine aren't as important. A stuck EGR valve can cause a rough idle or a rough feeling under heavy acceleration. It can also cause emissions related check engine lights.

If you like this video please click subscribe. We have a ton more information on this truck as well as many other makes and models. If you want this part for your vehicle you can follow the link in the description over to 1AAuto.com. The only items you'll need for this repair are a 27 millimeter wrench, a 10 millimeter socket, and a ratchet, as well as some torque wrenches to make sure that those bolts are tightened to spec.

Your EGR valve is located at the driver's front of the engine, right up by the throttle body, which is under this plastic cover here. We'll start by removing this nut on the EGR tube; this runs down to the exhaust to bring the exhaust gasses up and release them into the intake. This is a 27 millimeter. We don't have that wrench so we're going to use a pipe wrench. You don't need a lot of force to clamp that and turn it, so we won't score it up and make it harder to work on later. We've soaked ours in penetrating oil; as you can see it's a little rusty in there, so we let that soak in for a little bit.We'll clamp our pipe wrench onto the flats of the nut, give it a feel, make sure you're not going to snap it or strip it, loosen up the grip.

You want to make sure when you're removing this nut that you can see it turning freely on the pipe and that the pipe hasn't rusted to it, and is twisting with the nut. If that's the case, you're going to twist it and end up snapping that pipe. Make sure you spray penetrating oil inside of that channel as well. Remove the nut and the exhaust pipe from the end of our EGR, and place it off to the side.

Remove the vacuum line at the top of the EGR valve, and move it off to the side. We'll use a 10 millimeter socket and ratchet to remove these two bolts. Once the bolts are out you can remove the EGR from the vehicle.

Here we have our old EGR valve that we removed from our truck and our new part from 1AAuto.com. As you can see these parts are exactly the same. They have the same size valve, same vacuum actuator at the top, threaded fitting at the bottom, and the same two bolt flange on the rear. This new part from 1A Auto is going to go in direct fit just like your original equipment, to fix you up right.

Make sure that this mounting surface is clear of old gasket material. If there's still something there you can go ahead and scrape that down with a razor blade or a sharp flat blade screwdriver. We're going to start the bolts a few threads into the gasket to make sure it gets held in place properly. You may have to move this exhaust pipe out of the way some. Line it up, start your 10 millimeter bolts, bring them down with a socket and ratchet. Torque these two bolts to 15 foot-pounds. Reconnect your vacuum line at the top of the actuator.

Line up your exhaust pipe. Make sure the exhaust tube is seated into the opening inside of the fitting, and start the flare nut by hand. Use your 27 millimeter wrench to finish tightening the nut. Again, we don't have one, so we're using a pipe wrench. You could also use an adjustable. Start up your truck, make sure there are no leaks coming out through these threads or the back side of the gasket, and you're good to go.

Thanks for tuning in. We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.


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