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How to Replace Cruise Control Switch 07-14 Toyota FJ Cruiser

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How to Replace Cruise Control Switch 07-14 Toyota FJ Cruiser

Created on: 2019-08-08

Learn how to replace the cruise control lever on your 07-14 Toyota FJ Cruiser, with the help of 1A Auto, in this video tutorial!

  1. step 1 :Removing the Cruise Control Switch
    • Disconnect the negative battery cable by loosening the 10 mm nut
    • Remove the Access panel on either side of the steering wheel assembly
    • Loosen the T30 screw on each side of the steering wheel assembly. The screws are caged in, and will stay in place
    • Pull out on the air bag and horn pad to remove it
    • Disconnect the horn wire
    • Disconnect each of the airbag wires by prying up the locking tab and pulling the connector straight out
    • Disconnect the cruise control switch electrical connector
    • Remove the two Phillips screws
    • Remove the cruise control switch
  2. step 2 :Installing the Cruise Control Switch
    • Pass the arm of the switch out from the inside of the steering wheel assembly
    • Align the mounting holes
    • Install the two Phillips screws to secure the switch
    • Reconnect the cruise control switch electrical connector
    • Reconnect the black airbag connector to the black socket and push in the locking tab
    • Reconnect the red airbag connector to the red socket and push in the locking tab
    • Reconnect the horn wire
    • Install the airbag and horn pad into the steering wheel
    • Tighten the T30 screw on each side
    • Reinstall the access panel on each side of the steering wheel assembly
    • Reconnect the negative battery cable and tighten the 10 mm nut

Tools needed for replacement

  • Ratchets & Related

    Socket Extensions


  • Screwdrivers & Related

    Phillips Head Screwdriver

    Pocket Screwdriver

  • Star Drivers & Sockets

    T30 Socket

  • Wrenches - Metric

    10mm Wrench

Installation Video
Watch video

Hey, friends. It's Len here at 1A Auto. Today we're working on our 2007 Toyota FJ cruiser and I want to show you how to remove and replace the cruise control switch. All right? It should be fairly simple. I can do it. You can do it too. If you need this or any other part, you can always check us out at Thanks.

All right. So first thing we want to do, now that we have the hood open, we're going to remove our negative battery terminal. When you do this, you're going to lose your radio presets, your clock, of course. Pretty much anything you have preset inside the vehicle is going to be reset. So keep that in mind. If your stereo has some sort of security, you're going to want to make sure that you have the security numbers to get back into it and of course, make sure that your doors are unlocked and you're able to get into the vehicle. So we're going to go ahead and loosen this up right here using our 10 millimeter. This is the negative battery terminal. Pull it off. I'm just going to slide it right down behind the battery there so there's no possible way it can come back up and make contact with the battery. Now we're going to wait the specified amount of time for the battery to do the discharge and then we'll go ahead on with the next step.

So right here is a little plastic cover. We're going to remove this cover. Behind there, there's going to be a T30. You're going to use a torx bit for that. On the other side of the steering wheel, there's either going to be another cover like this or if you already have a cruise control switch, you're going to have the cruise control switch coming through with a cover around it. Okay? So let's move ahead. We'll grab our trim tool and probably a small pocket screwdriver, see if we can get that to pop out. So generally speaking, when you're dealing with plastic, if you don't want to scuff it up, you want to go ahead and use something like this, a plastic trim tool. Okay? The problem with these as well, if you can get it in there, usually they're pretty thick and they're very hard to get into tight places. Okay? So I'm just going to go ahead and try to go with a small pocket screwdriver, see if I can find an edge that'll let me in. Try to pop this out of here. There we are.

Okay, so judging by the look of this, the best way to come in, it looks like it would be from this side right here. Try to go in and then try to give your pocket screwdriver a little twist.

It should separate it enough to slide this part out and then should come apart. All right? So we'll set that aside. Right inside here is our torx bit 30. This is what I'm talking about. It looks kind of like a star. That's going to go right inside this. This is a captured bolt, which just means that once you have it fully loosened, it's not actually going to come completely out, fall and hit the floor, hit you in the eye or anything like that. It's stuck right inside the steering wheel unit. So I'm just going to leave this as it is for now. I'm going to go head over to the other side and I'm going to remove the other side as well. All right, so I came right in, right up along here, stuck it in. Give it a little twist. Came out nice and easy, easy peasy. So there we are. It's got the little doodad hole. Okay, that's what this is going to go through and then, okay. We've got our torx bit 30 bolt right there. So I'm going to go ahead and do it.

If you have an electric screwdriver, you can use that. It's super important to make sure that when you disconnect the battery, you wait a few minutes, okay? If you can wait five, maybe even 10 minutes, that would be best. You want to make sure that the electrical system's discharged because underneath here is your airbag unit. There we are. Break that free, that off of there. Okay, I'm going to come up here. I'm just going to grab this unit right here. Give it a little wiggle. There's going to be wiring behind it so you don't want to go ahead and pull and expect it to just go, I don't know, into the next room. Just give it a nice little tug and here's all the wiring I'm talking about.

You've got this for your horn and these are for your airbag. So I'm going to grab the horn wire here. This is just a ground wire so you don't have to necessarily worry about it touching up against anything metal. Okay. Not that it would matter anyway because the battery is disconnected, but just to say. Now these right here, to get them off, what you do is you take your pocket screwdriver, you go in between and try to lift up the little yellow thing in the middle. Okay? Just going to come under it. Lift it. Come under this one. They should be marked underneath with the specific color. So you can't mix up which wire goes where. But in case it's not, I don't know what's under there yet. Orange is on the left. Well, the left if you're looking at it, I guess. It would technically be the passenger side if it was on. But anyway, on the left, looking at it and the black's on the right. Okay? So now what we do is just grab these.

Go ahead and pull it off. Okay, we got black under there. Black to black. Cool. Let's see if we got orange under here. I'm sure we do. Sometimes, getting these disconnected ... Cool. Orange. So, foolproof. Can't mix that up. All right, so now that we've got the horn pad out of the way, we've got our electrical connector. You just push in on this tab right here. You can use your finger or pocket screwdriver, whatever you got and then just go ahead and pull down like that and it slides out. We always check our electrical connectors. Make sure you don't see any funny colors. Any rainbow colors inside of a electrical connector is bad. As long as it's nice, solid metal and it's clean, not rusted or wet or full of debris, it's doing all right. Let's set that aside. Right here, we have a Phillips head screw and a Phillips head screw. We're going to go ahead and remove those.

Number two, exactly the same as the first. Can't mix them up. Let's set them aside. Now we can grab our switch. We're going to pull it out towards the center of the steering wheel area and there's our cruise control switch. So here we are, friends, a quick product comparison for you. Right here we have our cruise control switch out of our 2007 Toyota FJ Cruiser and over here we have our brand new quality 1A Auto part. These two parts are the exact same. They're made to the same specifications. They've got the same mounting areas. Super important. We've got the same electrical connector. Also very important. You get the same writing here. Everything's set up the exact same. So the way the original one worked is the way that the brand new quality 1A Auto part's going to work. Even got the little button on the end there. So with all that said, I don't see any reason why this wouldn't be a quality part to install into the vehicle. So I'm going to go ahead and do it. If you need this or any other part, you can always check us out a Thanks

Okay, so we have our brand new quality 1A Auto part here. We're going to go ahead and install it. To do that, I'm just going to bring it through the steering wheel here and we're going to line up our mounting holes. Let me grab my Phillips head, my two screws. Just going to get it lined up here. Get that one started. Not going to tighten either of them until they're both in and started. Okay, both are started. Let's go ahead and button it up. Snug. Snug. It feels great. We've got our wiring harness. That's going to go with the lock facing towards the driver's side.

Go straight up. Listen for the click. Give it a nice little tug. That feels great. Make sure everything's situated in here where it was supposed to go. The wire goes in behind this little clippy do there. Okay? Okay, so now it's time to go ahead and install our horn pad/airbag. We've got the backside. We remember orange goes to orange, black to black. That's pretty basic. We don't need to say it. But say it anyway. I'm going to try to get the orange in here. There we are. Push in on the little yellow plastic thing. That's the lock. That makes it so this can't fall off. If you forget that, this wire could fall off driving down the road and it could cause issues. So let's avoid that. Let's go ahead and put this in. Push in the lock. Give them both a nice little wiggle. They feel good. This is our horn ground wire. It's just going to slide right on that little prong just like that. Give it a nice little tug. It's not going anywhere. All right, let's move ahead to the next step. So here we are. Let's get it slid in.

There we are. Okay. We're going to take our T30, the star. Go right in here to this bolt. Start it in and do the same to the other side and then I'll snug them both up. Okay. It's started the other one's started. So I'll just go ahead and snug this one up. Same for this one. Nice and snug. We've got our little cover. We've got the little pronged end. It's going to go up against this side. So we'll start in with the forward side. Clip that in. Clean it off. Make it look nice and pretty again. Do the same to the other one. This one's got the little hole, okay?

Goes in the same as the other side. You start with the forward end and then just pop in the rearward end. That's it. Easy peasy. Let's move ahead to the next step. Okay, so we've got our negative terminal. We'll bring it back up to where it's going to go. When you go to connect your negative terminal onto the battery, you might notice a spark or an arc. You might hear a noise. It might startle you a little bit basically. Okay? Don't be scared. Just go ahead and put it on, one and done. Don't go on off, on off, on off. Makes me scared. Just on, okay. There we are. Get that on there. I'm going to go ahead and snug this up. Give it a little wiggle. It's going nowhere. If this is still loose, you need to make sure you tighten it up. You don't want this wobbling around. We'll close our hood and on the road again.

Thanks for watching. Visit for quality auto parts shipped to your door, the place for DIY auto repair and if you enjoyed this video, please click the subscribe button.

Tools needed for replacement:

    Ratchets & Related

  • Socket Extensions
  • Ratchet

  • Screwdrivers & Related

  • Phillips Head Screwdriver
  • Pocket Screwdriver

  • Star Drivers & Sockets

  • T30 Socket

  • Wrenches - Metric

  • 10mm Wrench

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