How to Replace Center Exhaust Sleeve 1997-2009 Audi A4
Created on: 2016-06-21
How to replace the center exhaust clamp/coupling in a 2007 Audi A4 2.0T.
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step 1 :Removing the Exhaust Coupling
- Remove the four M10 bolts from the crossmember to access the coupling
- Slide the crossmember to one side and remove it
- Undo the 17mm bolts from the exhaust coupling
- Remove the brackets
- Slide the coupling back
- Separate the pipes
- Remove the coupling
- Clean off the pipe where the coupling will sit with a wire brush
- Apply an exhaust sealant to the pipe
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step 2 :Installing the Exhaust Coupling
- Hold the pipe down and out of the way
- Slide the coupling onto the rear pipe
- Center and tighten the 17mm bolts
- Slide the crossmember into place
- Tighten the M10 bolts to the crossmember
Tools needed
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Exhaust Sealant
17mm Socket
Jack Stands
Ratchet
Wire Brush
Floor Jack
M10 Triple Square Bit
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Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we're going to show you how to replace a center exhaust coupling in this 2007 Audi A4. This one is a 2.0 Turbo. You'll need an M10 triple square bit, a rust removal brush or anything to clean the rust off of the pipes, such as a wire brush or sandpaper, exhaust sealant, 17mm socket and a ratchet, and jack and jack stands.
One very common exhaust leak on these cars is the center exhaust clamp here. You can see ours is actually rotted off and broken. To gain a little more access and make it easier to clean the pipe to ensure a good seal with our new part, we'll use an M10 triple square socket.
Remove the four bolts holding this rear cross member. Slide the cross member to one side, allow it to hang down, and remove it from the other side. Normally, you would undo these two bolts on the clamps or cut through them if they're corroded like this, but our clamps have actually broken and separated completely in the middle, so we'll just bend them and remove them from the sleeve.
Slide the sleeve back, separate the pipes, and remove your sleeve. We're going to use a rust removal brush on a die grinder in order to clean up these rusty areas where the new coupling will sit, and ensure we have a better seal. If you don't have one of these, they're also available for power drills, or you can just use a wire brush or sandpaper.
After cleaning the surfaces where the coupling will clamp onto the pipe, we like to use some kind of exhaust sealant. In this case, it's a copper spray-on gasket. You can use this, the kind that come in a tube, or you can use a muffler mud type of sealant, really anything that will fill in the pores and make sure that the clamp has a nice seal on the pipes.
Hold the front pipe down and out of the way, slide the coupling onto the rear pipe, center it, and tighten the bolts down with a 17mm socket and ratchet. Slide the cross member under the plastic pan on one side, line it up, and center it back over the holes. Using a M10 tripe square bit and a socket and ratchet, reinstall the hardware on the cross member.
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