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How to Replace Carrier Bearings 09-14 F150

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What's up guys? I'm Andy from 1A Auto. In this video I'm going to be replacing these rear-differential carrier bearings, sometimes they call them side bearings, on this 2011 Ford F-150. If you need parts for your vehicle click the link in the description and head over to 1A Auto dot com.

One thing I like to do before I take a cover off is make sure the fill plug is able to come out 'cause if you get the cover off, put it back on, and you can't fill it up with fluid then you're stuck. So always start with taking the fill plug out. Just use a ratchet and an extension to pull this plug out. I'll take that out. There's plenty of fluid in there.

Alright, I'm going to remove this cover. You want to make sure you have a drain bucket or drain pain underneath to catch the fluid. I'm going to use a half-inch socket and then an extension and a ratchet. You can try using a 13 millimeter but it seemed a little loose so I'm just going to use a half inch.

On certain bolts have a stud on the top of them. You got to just take these little wire retainers off and pull them out. If they're stuck on there you can use a straight blade screwdriver. Pull those out of your way. So there's three of those. Remember the location of those. That's important when you go to put it back together. Take a deeper socket and a ratchet and we'll take those out.

Take this one out and then I have one left. I always like to leave the top one in last. I'm going to loosen this up, not all the way. I'm not going to take it out all the way, just loosen it up a good amount of turns. Then I'm going to take a straight blade screwdriver. I'm going to get in behind the cover. I have to pry it out. The reason why I leave that bolt in is so when the cover actually comes off, then the cover doesn't go flying off. There we go. Just pull that off a little bit, right up. Let that fluid drain.

You can check the fluid and make sure it looks okay. I don't see any large metal pieces in there. Now most of its drained out. I'm just going to support the cover and take that last bolt out. Then I can grab the cover and pull it over. Alright, I'm going to take this drive shaft off. I'm just going to mark the driveshaft to the yoke. It's a good idea to do this to prevent vibrations. Just to put it back together the way you took it off. So right there and right there.

Alright I'm going to loosen up these bolts. There's four of them. I'm going to use a 12-point socket, a 12 millimeter extension and a ratchet or a breaker bar. I'm going to break them free first. I am going to use a pry bar to prevent the drive shaft from spinning while I loosen these up. That will relieve some of the tension on the transmission park pawl. Alright so I'm going to take these bottom three bolts out. Then I can't get to the top one, so after I get these three out, then I'm going to put the transmission in neutral and then rotate the drive shaft and then take that last one out.

Take that last bolt out. I'm just going to spin the drive shaft so that bolt is towards the bottom like that. Then I'm going to put the transmission back in park. Then I'll take this last bolt out. I took that last bolt out and this is still on there pretty good so I'll just grab a pry bar and get in here and there we go. Pull that out and just set that aside. Now I'm going to take the rear wheel off. I'm going to take a 21 millimeter socket and a breaker bar to loosen up these lug nuts.

I'll take the lug nuts off. Take that lug nut off. I'll take the tire off. The tires on there pretty good so I'm just going to put a lug nut on and hit the back side with a hammer. Then I'll take that lug nut back off and remove the wheel. I'm going to take the caliper bolts out. I'm going to use a 10 millimeter wrench. I'll take this with the open side of the wrench because there's this damper on here that prevents vibrations. Loosen that up and then we'll take the bottom one and loosen this one up. The top one is not going to come out all the way because of the leaf spring, but that's okay.

Just as long as it's loose, then we can get the caliper off. The bottom one I can pull out completely. I'm just going to slide the caliper up, slide it out, just like that. I can pull this screw out, this stud, so that I don't lose it and set it aside. I'm going to take the brake caliper and I'm going to use one of these hangers. We sell these at 1A auto dot com. I'm just going to slide it there into the frame and slide the caliper on there. Just so it's supported, I want to make sure there's no tension on the hose. Just leave that out of your way.

Then I'm going to grab the rotor and just slide it off. If the rotor is stuck on there, you can take a hammer and just hit in these areas to tape the rust off 'cause generally it will corrode in the middle there. Then I'm going to do the same procedure for the other side. Alright, so I want to loosen ... Take this bolt out, loosen it up. The ring gear is just spinning so what I'm going to do is take out one and one eight socket and a breaker bar and I'm going to stick it on the pinion. Hold the pinion while I loosen this up. Loosen this up. Now I can pull this bolt out. It's going to have a long stud on the end of it that holds that pin in.

Right now I'm just going to rotate the pinion. Be careful that this pin doesn't just fall out. Once I get it at about that angle, I'm just going to slide the pin out. Make sure you put it in a safe place. So with that pin out, I want to be careful that these gears don't move. These are the spider gears. You don't want them to come out 'cause it's very hard to get them back in and there's spaces in there and some clutches on these sides. So we want to take the axle out. So I'm going to push on the axle, just like that.

Then that gets pushed in. Then there is a little horseshoe retainer that holds it in, right there. You can access that with a magnet. Just use a magnet and grab this. You should be able to pull it out just like that. There is a little O-ring in there that helps keep it in place. Pull that out. Now I can grab on the axle and slide it out. Just be careful. Hold it up. We don't want to mess up the seal. It's a good idea to replace this seal when you do this job. These seals are brand new so I'm not going to. Then I'm going to do the same with the other axle.

So as you can see, we have gear-marking compound on the ring gear. We've just checked the pattern. It's not necessary to do during removal but it's recommended when reinstalling. So I'm going to want to take this whole differential out. I want to take these caps off, take these bolts off. You want to keep in mind which cap goes where. Mark it with a marker or this one actually has two little stamps in on the top side. This one only has one so I know this is the left side and this is the right side. Those might not be factory so keep in mind if yours doesn't have that just keep in mind which one goes where.

Then I'm going to take a 19 millimeter socket and a breaker bar and I'm going to loosen these up. Take that out and take this side out as well. I'm just going to support the carrier differential assembly just in case. It should not slide right out but just in case it does. I'm going to pry out where the bolts are. Alright I got it loose a little bit. I'm just prying on the side of the case and pushing on the bolts to slide that out. Just slide it out. This is very heavy so keep that in mind. I'm just going to grab this other shim. This came out so keep in mind this was the passenger side.

Alright, now I want to take this pinion yoke off. I'm just going to take two of the bolts and stick those two in there. I'm just going to spray a little rust penetrant in there. Alright, I'm just going to use a pry bar to prevent this from spinning. I am going to have to use a pneumatic tool, to get this off. It's a one and one eight socket and a air gun. Take that off like that. I can take these bolts back out. I don't need those in there right now. Alright so I'm going to use this puller to get this yoke off. You're just going to have to be creative with how you get it off. If you have a puller and I'm just going to use a pry bar to prevent it from twisting.

Then the yoke will pull off just like this. I'm going to take a dead blow hammer and I'm going to use my other hand and support the pinion from the inside so that when it goes all the way in, then I can catch it. Just like that and you just slide it out. Alright so we want to take these bearings off the carrier. So you can pull the wraiths off. We're not going to reuse these so we can throw these out. But we want to pull these bearings off. They make tool kits like these but our tool kit is too small for these bearings. What you would do is take this off and you're supposed to clamp it under here and then you can either put this in a press or use the other attachments to pull it off. But this one is too small so I can't use that.

They make other style pullers to pull these bearings. So what I'm going to have to do is I'm going to have to use some air tools. I'm actually going to cut it off with a cutting wheel and an air hammer. I'm going to just cut a slice in it and then use the air hammer and push it off. So I am going to take some brake parts cleaner and clean this then wipe it off with a rag. It's a good idea, if you're going to reuse your ring gear, to get a damp cloth or rag and place it on the ring gear so none of the sparks affect the ring gear. We're replacing the ring gear anyway so we're not going to need that. So I want to cut a little area. I want to make sure, wherever my sparks are going, they're not going into the clutches like in this hole here.

In an area like here, is actually pretty good 'cause then you'll have more room to use the air hammer after. Make sure you have safety glasses when you're doing this. Take a screwdriver and just break this. Once you get one of these bearings out, then it comes out pretty easy. I'm trying not to cut the carrier. There we go, just spread this part. Pull that right off just like that. All the little rollers go flying. Make sure you get them out of here. Now we want to cut this part of the bearing. We're just going to cut at an angle so that I can get deeper into it. You need to be careful when you're doing this. You don't want to cut into the carrier too much. You just want to do a nice slice right down there.

Alright, I did a couple of different cuts. I was having a hard time getting an angle that I liked that was going to prevent me from digging into the carrier 'cause I didn't want to cut it. I scored it just a little bit right there and a little right there. But that angle seemed to work pretty good. Now what I'm trying to do is cut it to the point where I can actually crack it. So when I use the air hammer, I'm just going to use the air hammer right here. Hopefully that will crack and then I can get this part of the bearing right off.

Then I'll take my air hammer and I'm just going to set it right there with a straight bit on it. Just hammer this away and I can already see that it's starting to come off. You could even try starting with the air hammer and see if you get the bearing to move at all. But generally, you got to crack the bearing. There you go. It came right off. So when we were cutting, we actually scored the carrier a little bit right there which that's actually not bad. There's still a lot of surface there so don't be worried if you're doing this and you dig into the carrier a little bit.

So you want to compare the old carrier bearing to the new ones. Just make sure they're the same size. So those look good. So keep in mind which race goes on which side. So we'll keep this one as this side and we'll install this. You can use this old piece of the old bearing to actually help you install it. If you don't have a press to press these bearings on, you can actually use a seal installer or even be creative and use some sockets. You want to just have something that's going to push just on the center of this bearing. You don't want it pushing on the outside there. So we'll line this up. So we'll just hammer this on. If it starts going at an angle, take this center and tap it where it's high, on the high spot.

Now once we get close to the end, the bearing actually has to seat further down than the side of the carrier. So I'm going to take the old bearing and just stick it on the seal installer like this. Generally, when you're doing this, all the sudden hammering it, it will sound different. Yeah it definitely sounded different. It's good and then I'm going to do the same with the other side. So when I cut this side off, I scored it a little bit more and that's okay. That's not going to cause any issues. It's still going to work and the reason why we cut it is so that it actually cracks. That relieves some of the tension on the bearing. So as you can see, we cut it that much and then it cracked all the way up and same with this one.

Just cutting it that little bit and there's a fine crack and that just relieves it enough just to be able to pull the bearing off. Alright so I want to press in the bearing on the other side. I showed you how to hammer in this other side. But before I do that, I don't want to just flip this over and have this flat on the press 'cause I could damage this bearing. The cage is taller than the bearing. So what I want to do is find something that's smaller than the bearing so that the cage doesn't push on it. Then I'm going to put that down first, flip this over, and make sure that's centered on there. Now I can take this bearing and I'll take this pieces from the old bearing and line this up. Take a block of something that will fit under here on the press and gently start to press this on. If it starts going crooked then loosen it up, reposition it.
This is a little bit easier than hammering it on but if you don't have a press, then this might not be an option. Press it on until it gets really difficult to press. Then just double check and make sure that air gap is gone. This one looks pretty good. Loosen it up and we're good to go. At this point we want to take out the old races and we want to put the new ones in. These are the bearing races. These match to the bearing. You never want to reuse the old races because it's not meshed with the new bearings. So what we're going to do is take a punch and chisel it out. Chisel this one, the front one out from back here and then this back one here, we'll put a punch through the front of the case and use a hammer to punch it back.

Alright so we're going to chisel out the front race first. I'm just going to use a long punch like this. There's a little notch right there. It's kind of hard to see right there. Take that, and I'll take a hammer and we're just going to punch it out. This is another notch. This one doesn't have one. I'm just going to go on the other side a little bit, give it a couple of taps, just go back and forth and there we go. There's the old race.

Now from the front of the differential, I'm going to go and there's these same notches right here. I'll just use the same punch and a hammer. There's the front one. You can actually see where it's a little bit worn. Okay so before we put the new races in you want to keep in mind, right here and right here on this side, when we're using the punch, the punch would ride up against the side of the case right there and right there. So there's a little bit of a burr right there. What you want to do is we want to get rid of that. So you could take a file or a die grinder. We're going to use a little die grinder and just file that down or even some sandpaper, if you want to make it even with the rest of it.

It's okay if you go a little bit low 'cause there's so much surface area that the bearing race is going to sit on. So it will be okay. Just keep in mind, it's important that you look to make sure that that's not there. Same with the front one, too. You're going to have to adjust, if there was anything when you were hammering it out. If there's any marks on the front one, then we'll have to adjust as well.

I'm going to install the front race. Just take a little bit of gear oil and put it on there. You don't have to do this but it will make going in a lot easier. You can put it on the race. Then we're going to take a bearing installer like this, one that fits and get this lined up. You want to make sure this is flush in there correctly. Take a hammer and just hammer it in. You'll actually hear a difference when you're hammering it. Once you hear that difference, then you know it's probably all the way down. You still want to double-check from the front of it and make sure there is no gap. If you can't see any gap then you're good to go.

So from the back side you can see the race and just make sure there's no air gap between there and the case. It looks like it's pretty good. Before we install the pinion and the new bearings into the differential case, some things you want to keep in mind. You want to make sure you put the seal back on before we install it but also before we put the seal on, you're going to need to install this bearing and this spacer. This goes on the back side of the bearing. So when we install that, that's going to go first and then the seal. We'll attach that and then we're ready to insert the pinion and you want to make sure you have the crush collar on the pinion. If you put this together without the crush collar, you're going to have to take it apart again. You want to make sure you use a new crush collar. You can't reuse the old one.

What the crush collar is going to do is keep tension between the two bearings so that there's a preload between the bearings. Basically, it's keeping the bearings pushed apart so much so that they're riding in the exact spot where they need to be. So once that's crushed down, it's exactly where it needs to be. If you crush it too far, and you loosen it up, you're not going to have the right tension on it. So you only get one shot at this. Alright, I'm going to take some gear oil. You can take some assembly lube and put it all over this bearing. Just work it into the bearing 'cause you don't want it to go in dry.

So take the bearing, slide that in. Then I'll take this spacer that's going to go in next and we'll take this seal. Get the seal in position. Okay with that all set, take a seal installer. If you don't have a seal installer, sometimes a block of wood actually works even better. I'll just install this. Use a hammer. Just double check to make sure it's down all the way. Everything is in there in the spacer so that's good. With the new pinion bearing on there, I'm going to take some gear oil and lubricate the pinion bearing. You can use assembly lube as well.

Alright, that's good. Double-check and make sure you have your crush collar on at this time. Before you put the nut on for the pinion, it's a good idea to put a little bit of Loctite on the threads right there and some on the nut as well. So now I'm going to slide the pinion in. I may have to use my hand on the other side to position the bearing. Remember this pinion is very heavy. Get that like that and now I'm going to take my yoke, slide the yoke over the pinion just like that. I can't get to any threads so what I'm going to have to do is hold the pinion. I'm just going to give this a tap. Take the new nut, get that started.

Alright so what we want to do is we want to prevent this pinion from spinning. So I'm going to use this tool. It's not the exact tool made for this but it will work for us. I'm going to take one of these bolts from the yoke and install it on this tool. I'll tighten it down with my 12 millimeter 12-point socket. So now that's on there nice and tight. So I can take an impact gun and the socket and tighten this down so it crushes that crush collar. So I'm going to sue my impact gun and a 28 millimeter socket and tighten this up. I'm going to hold this bar as I tighten it.

I'm going to keep checking it. Keep checking the play on it. So I still have a lot of play. I just got to keep going with this. You really need a powerful gun to be able to crush this crush collar. So just keep that in mind. Just keep checking it and going back, taking the gun and tightening it up. Alright, so we're getting close so just be careful, go back and forth. You can see we'll be there soon. What you can normally do is, once it's starting to get tight, once there's no more play in there, you can take this and drop it and normally it will just stop. That looks pretty good. Alright, just work that back and forth.

It feels pretty good. Loosen this up. So the correct way to check this would be checking the drag on the pinion. What you'd want to do is take the socket and take a torque wrench that has a gauge on it and you would want to spin this and you'd want to see 20 inch pounds on there. That's what the spec is. So if it was too light, then you'd want to go back and tighten that nut up a little bit more. I don't have a rotating torque wrench. This is a little bit on the loose side. So I'm just going to give it a couple more zaps.
Alright, that feels good. It's a little bit tighter so not too tight. If it's too tight and you have to take it out, then you have to replace the crush collar. So keep in mind, just do a little bit at a time. This is how you would check it but you'd want to look at the gauge and see. So when you're looking at the carrier bearings or even the pinion bearings, you're going to want to take a look at the race. So here's the race from the pinion and if I you look at it, it looks pretty smooth. Up close, there's a little bit of wear but not that much. A lot of times, if you have a noise coming from the bearings, it will be pitted. You'll see metal chunks missing and you're going to look at the rollers as well. On the rollers you'll probably see some chunks taken out of the rollers. One thing you can't normally see is on the inner side of the bearing, now this is with the rollers cut off of it. Sometimes they'll be chunks in there and you won't even be able to see that.

So what you're going to want to do is take the race, and just feel the bearing. Just go back and forth and this bearing actually feels pretty good and you do the same with the pinion. Now with the pinion, obviously the race is going to be attached to the rear differential. So what you can do is just grab the pinion and just rotate it and rotate it from the front. You can see if you hear anything. This one sounds pretty quiet. Right, before I install the carrier with the ring gear and bearings, I want to clean up this surface 'cause it's going to be easier with everything out. So I'll just take a scraper and clean up all this RTV.

Alright, I'm just going to take some brake parts cleaner and clean this area up. Just wipe it with a rag. So my plan is to reuse these factory shims. This one went on the left. This one went on the right. I'm hoping everything lines up. If everything is good, then we'll be good to go. If it doesn't work with the factory shims, then we can take these shims and there's different sizes here and we'll have to measure the factory ones with a digital caliper, find out what size they are, and find the equal amounts on these. We can add and subtract depending on which side, which way we need the ring gear to go.

If we needed to go closer to the passenger side, we'll put less shims on this side. If we need it to go more towards the drivers side, put less shims on the drivers side. So before we install this, I'm going to take some gear oil and just put it on the bearings. Make sure we get those nice and lubricated and same with the inner bearing. Alright, that's good. Now this is going to be heavy. I got to take the shims, put them on the outside of the bearings like that. Now just be careful and slide this in position. What we're going to do is take a rubber mallet and just tap this in. I'm just going to take my punch and hammer and just tap this in a little more. You can beat the differential pretty hard. Just use a plastic hammer. I wouldn't take a sledge and hammer on this section or anything but hitting on the shims is okay.

Now we want to put these caps on and put the bolts in. Remember, on this drivers side, I had one dot at the top of this cap. So I'll slide that in there. Put the bottom bolts in. The other side had two dots. Just make sure these are clean. They go in like that, dots at the top. Now I'm going to use a torque wrench with a 19 millimeter socket and I'm going to torque these to 77 foot pounds. Okay so after torquing these caps on, I go to move my ring gear and there's no play which that's not good. If I grab the pinion and try to turn it, it's too tight. So I have to go ahead and take the shims out and then use the smaller shims and adjust. So right now the ring gear is too close to the pinion. So we want to back it up. So we're going to use a smaller shim on the drivers side and a bigger shim on the passenger side.

If I take a digital caliper and I measure the shim that was on the driver side, I'm at point two eight zero. Then take the shim that was on the passenger side. I can measure then. That one seems to be about ten thousandths less which we can actually switch these. We can take this one, put it on the drivers side and take this one and put it on the passenger side and see if that brings us back to where we're supposed to be. Or we can actually take these shims, which these are the universal ones. Measure out and see how thick they are and just put a thinner shim on this side and thicker ones on this side. We're just going to have to keep checking it and trying it and see what works for us.

Alright so I torqued these caps back down and I actually have zero backlash which isn't good. But, it actually moves so we're getting there. So I just need to take more out on this side, put more shims on that side.

So the shim on the drivers side is point two six six. So what I want to do is take these shims ... Now there's shims in the middle here to separate. Then the shim goes on the outside. Check this and this will be point two five eight. I want a little bit less than that. I want to take about ten thousandths off. So pull these little ones out. Put this back together. Two point four eight, that's a little less than I wanted. Okay so point two five zero, so we're going to try that and then we'll add the difference on this side.

So we took out fifteen thousandths from this, added fifteen thousandths to this side and now we actually have backlash, which is good. It spins all the way with the pinion. So now we're going to check the backlash and make sure it's within spec and go from there. So I have my gauge set up and I have it zeroed out. If I just rotate this slightly, I'm about six thousandths which is a little on the low side. I wanted closer to ten. I'm going to take one more five thousandths shim out of here and stick it on this side. That's just going to shift it over just a little bit and we'll check it again. Okay so we set this up again and put our gauge on. Now we're just checking the backlash and we have about eight thousandths which is awesome. That's exactly where we want to be. You don't want to be too high. You don't want to be over twelve thousandths and you don't want to be much under seven thousandths. So eight thousandths is awesome so we're going to send it like that.

In case you don't understand what I'm talking about when I'm talking about backlash and this measurement right here, what it is is the ring gear and the pinion. There is an air gap between the two and if that air gap is too tight, then when all these components heat up, it's going to bind up and cause a lot of wear. If the air gap is too loose, then you're going to get clunking while you're accelerating and decelerating. So that is why it's important to have this adjustment adjusted properly. So we have the backlash setup so we're good there. So now we want to check the pattern. So I'm going to take some gear marking compound and a small brush to just mark this up. I'm going to mark it up on both sides of the ring gear.

Okay now we're going to check the pattern. I'm going to have a friend turn the pinion while I use the pry bar and I'm going to put a little pressure on it. What the pressure is doing is making it so the pattern is going to spread a little bit better. Otherwise if you just do it freewheeling then it's not going to have as good of a pattern. Alright, you can stop. Now we're going to go the other direction. So now I'm going to pry from the top. Alright, go ahead. First we're going to look at this side. Now, this area right here is where the pinion is contacting the ring gear. Now this is the drive side so when you're accelerating and going forward, this is where it is pushing on the ring gear. Now ideally I would have rather it been closer to the middle but that actually looks pretty good where it is. It's a nice pattern. It's nice contact. It's oval. It's not coming off the edge which it looks really good.

Then if I look at the coast side, there's a nice oval on this side as well. It's pretty close to where I want it to be. Ideal would have been closer to the middle but that looks pretty good. If our pattern didn't look as good and we actually had to make adjustments, what we would want to do is change the shims for the pinion. So when you're installing the pinion, we guessed and we put the factory shim on here but you would have to pull this all apart. Take the bearing off, put the different size shim on, and reinstall it. Now they do make kits to find out which shims you need. Obviously that's a Ford factory part. We don't have that so we didn't have that tool to check. So we did the best we could and just guessed. I'm just going to take a rag and wipe some of this up.

So now I want to rotate this to this position because I'm going to install the axles and I want to put the C-clips back in. Alright so I'm going to slide the axle in. Be careful not to ruin the seal so hold it up a little bit. These are new seals. If you pull this apart and they weren't new seals, you might want to install new seals. You just have to pull the axle down a little bit so that it lines up. You really don't want to rotate it. You just want to push it on. Take a hammer and give it a little tap. Now I'll take this C-clip, slide that in position right there. Then I'll just take a little pry bar, come over here, and just pry the axle out. Just make sure that that's in proper position like that. It looks good and I'll do the same with the other side.

Before we slide this pin in, I just want to get this bolt that secures the pin in ready, I'm just going to put a little thread locker on these threads to get that ready. You can slide the pin in. So take this and give it a little tap just like that. Take the pin, slide this in, just like that. I'm just going to grab a three eighths socket and a ratchet and we'll just snug this up. We can use a torque wrench and as I hold the ring gear, I'm going to torque this to 22 foot pounds. Now I'm going to reinstall the drive axle. I did mark the axle where it goes on the pinion on the yoke just to make sure that lines up.

I'm going to take the 12-point 12 millimeter socket and extension and just tighten these down. I'm going to take a torque wrench and I'm going to torque these to 41 foot pounds. Torque these bottom three and then what I'm going to have to do to get to the top one, because you can't get there with a socket, I'm going to have to put the vehicle into neutral, rotate the drive shaft, and then torque that one as well. So we want to clean the cover off. Just wipe out any excess fluid. Just use a rag and I'm just going to take a razor blade. You can use a scraper. I'm going to scrape off any of this excess RTV. So I'm just going to take some break parts cleaner and clean this off. Then take a rag and wipe this all down. With a little bit of parts cleaner and a rag I'm just going to wipe this down one more time.

Now that our surfaces are clean, I can take some RTV or gasket maker and just put a small bead, not too thick. We'll go around the holes. I go around one time and then go back and do the other sides of the bolt holes. The stuff smells like vinegar. Now I'm going to go back and go around the outsides of the holes just like that and go all the way around. So now this is all gooped up. We're ready to put the cover back on. Slide this in position just like that and there's two bolts that have studs on the end. One goes right there and one goes right here. So I'll get those started first and then take the other bolts and get those all started. Actually there's three studs on it and here's where the other one goes. Then I'll take my half-inch socket and a ratchet and start snugging these down. I like to go across from one another and tighten it down evenly.

Now I'm going to go back around and torque these bolts to 33 foot pounds. I just went around again an re-torqued them so they're good. Take this wire harness and slide these on those studs. Alright so while I let that rear cover dry, I'm going to put the brakes back together. Take the rotor, line that back up in position. Then we'll take the caliper off the hanger. Before I install the caliper, I'm going to have to slide this caliper bolt in. It has this extra damper on it. This one goes on the top. Slide it in a little bit then we'll slide the caliper at the lower part of the brake pads first. Slide that on like that then I can take the other caliper bolt and slide that in position.

We're going to tighten these down. I'm just using a ten millimeter wrench on this top one. With the damper you can't get a socket on there. Ideally if you could torque this, you'd want to torque this to 22 foot pounds with a ten millimeter socket and a torque wrench. Just torque this to 22 foot pounds. Now I'll put the tire on and the lug nuts. I'll take the socket and just snug these down. Now I'm going to use a 21 millimeter socket and a torque wrench. I'm going to torque these lug nuts to 150 foot pounds and I'm going to torque them in a star pattern so that the wheel gets tightened down evenly. I'll just go around again to make sure it's all good. Then I'm going to do the same procedure on the other side.

I want to remember to add my fluid. Before I add gear oil to this vehicle, this vehicle has a limited slip differential so I'm going to use limited slip additive first. I want to put that in before I put the axle gear oil in. Now I can add the appropriate gear oil. So I got the fluid full enough so that it's just draining out the fill plug. So I'm just going to let that drain for a little bit. You want it right up to the bottom of the fill plug. Alright I'm going to take the fill plug, put it on my extension with my ratchet. I'm just going to put a little bit of pipe sealer on here. That's going to just help it seal up a little bit better. Take that fill plug and get that started. With my ratchet extension I'm just going to snug this up. Once it starts slowing down, then just give it another quarter turn.

That's pretty good. You don't want to tighten it too much where it actually goes into the case or cracks the case. So now I'm going to take some brake parts cleaner and just clean this all off. Because we disconnected the brakes, we're going to want to pump the brake pedal just to make sure everything is tight. There could be an air gap between the rear calipers and the brake pads. So if it feels tight, just make sure you do that before you take it for a ride.

Thanks for watching. Visit 1A auto dot com for quality auto parts shipped to your door. The place for DIY auto repair and if you enjoy this video, please click the subscribe button-

Tools needed for replacement:

    Air Powered Tools

  • Air Chisel
  • 1/2 Inch Air Impact Gun

  • General Tools

  • Hammer
  • Magnet - Extendable
  • Center Punch

  • Materials, Fluids, and Supplies

  • Gear Oil
  • RTV
  • Marker / Writing Utensil
  • Rust Penetrant
  • Brake Parts Cleaner
  • Safety Glasses
  • Cloth Rags

  • Ratchets & Related

  • Socket Extensions
  • Ratchet
  • Torque Wrench
  • 1/2 Inch Breaker Bar

  • Screwdrivers & Related

  • Pry Bar
  • Flat Blade Screwdriver

  • Sockets - Metric

  • 12mm Socket
  • 21mm Socket

  • Sockets - SAE

  • 1/2 Inch Socket
  • 1/18ths Socket
  • 3/8 Inch Socket

  • Specialty Tools

  • Brake Caliper Hanger
  • Bearing Separator
  • Harmonic Balancer Puller
  • Press

  • Wrenches - Metric

  • 10mm Wrench

  • Wrenches - SAE

  • 3/8 Inch Wrench

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