How to Replace Broken Lug Stud 2008-14 Cadillac CTS

What's up guys? I'm Andy from 1A Auto. In this video I'm going to show you how to replace a lug stud on this 2008 Cadillac CTS. If you need parts for your vehicle, click the link in the description and head over to 1aauto.com.

I want to take the wheel off. I'm going to use a 22 millimeter socket and an air gun. If you don't have an air gun, you can crack the lug nuts free before you raise the vehicle up off the ground with a breaker bar. Pull the tire off.

All right, now I want to take the caliper off. I'm going to take the caliper off with the bracket and I'm going to use an 18 millimeter socket and a breaker bar and take these caliper bracket bolts out.

Once those are loose, then I can use a ratchet and that same, whoops, that same 18 millimeter socket. All right, take those bolts out. Set those aside. So just take a screwdriver and just pry this out a little bit. That's just going to compress the caliper and then I'm going to take a caliper hanger. We actually sell these 1aauto.com. You could slide it in there and then either hook it on the spring or the upper controller. Just save it out of the way.

Now I'm going to use a T30, and I'm going to use this on an air gun. You can use this on an impact driver. Sometimes that works, but this generally works for me. Just put a lot of pressure on it and lightly loosen it up. There you go, take that screw out. I can take the rotor off. So here's the broken stud. I'm going to just take a hammer and hammer it through. That's it.

Just take the new lug stud and slide it in position. They do make stud installing kits, but what we're going to actually use is just an old axle nut. What you can do is find an axle nut that fits over the stud. I'm just going to lubricate this. Just spray a little lube on there, and then it's a good idea probably buying the extra lug nut. You're probably going to need a lug nut anyway so just buying an extra one and then use one of the bad ones. And we're just going to tighten this up and it's going to suck this stud right through. Just use my air gun. Just watch the back side of this stud while you're doing this. Almost there. I'm going to go a little further. Yeah, it's almost there ,a little bit further. And loosen it up. There you go. It's in there.

Just double check. Make sure there's no air gap between the hat of the stud and the hub, and it looks pretty good.

Now we're going to install the rotor. Take this screw, get that screw started. Going to use my T30, tighten this up. Now we don't need to tighten this as tight as when we took it off. You don't have to use a gun. I'm just going to use a ratchet and just snug it, not too tight.

Now can take the caliper off the hanger, and just reinstall the caliper. You want to make sure the hose is not twisted, so let's install this. This is going to be this way. Hose goes to the base and it goes up like that. Make sure it's straight.

Take the caliper bolts, reinstall the caliper bolts. You could put a little bit of threadlocker on this if you want. Just going to use a 18 millimeter socket and a ratchet. This one goes up first. Then I'll use the 18 millimeter socket and a torque wrench. Torque these bolts 166 foot pounds.

Put the tire back on, and I've got a couple new lug nuts. Put the new ones on. Some of the other lug nuts were still good, so we'll just reuse some of the old ones. If any of these get swollen, it's a good idea to replace those. That's why we're doing two. I'm going to use a 22 millimeter socket and a torque wrench. I'm going to torque these in a star pattern to 100 foot pounds. The reason why you do a star pattern or alternating pattern is to tighten the wheel down evenly.

I'll just around again just to confirm. There we go.

Now we're going to pump the brake pedal, because that caliper, when we took it off, the brake pad is going to have a little bit of air gap between the pad and the rotor. So we're going to eliminate the air gap. Make sure the pedal feels good, and it's good.

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