How to Replace Brake Backing Plates 2000-17 Chevy Trailblazer
Created on: 2011-06-03
If the brake backing plates are damaged, follow the instructions in this video and learn how to tackle it yourself
-
step 1 :Beginning the Repair
- This is Part 2 of a two part video
- Please consult Part 1 for prior instructions
- Perform the steps outlined in Part 1
-
step 2 :Reinstalling the Emergency Brakes
- Push the emergency brake cable into the cylinder
- Push the rod into the emergency brake cylinder
- Push on the emergency brake cylinder cover
- Clip the emergency brake shoes into place
- Push the emergency brake spring into place
-
step 3 :Reinstalling the Axle
- Slide the axle in through the wheel, being sure not to drag it on the seal
- Insert the C-clamp onto the axle at the differential
- Clean the differential pin
- Insert the pin into the differential with the whole at the bottom
- Apply thread-locking fluid to the pin bolt
- Insert the bolt into the differential
- Tighten the bolt to between 8 - 10 foot-pounds of torque
-
step 4 :Reinstalling the Differential Cover
- Clean the differential with a cloth rag
- Clean the differential cover with a cloth rag
- Apply sealant to the differential gasket
- Put the gasket in place
- Put the differential cover in place
- Start two bolts into the differential cover to hold it in place
- Start the remaining differential cover bolts into place
- Tighten the differential cover bolts to 12 foot-pounds in an opposing or star pattern
-
step 5 :Refilling the Differential Fluid
- Remove the plug from the differential with a 3/8 inch drive ratchet and extension
- Fill the differential with 80W90 differential fluid using a funnel
- Fill the differential until it starts to leak
- Put the plug back in
- Tighten the plug
- Wipe any grease off the differential
-
step 6 :Reinstalling the Brake Rotor
- Slide the rotor on
- Put the brake caliper bracket back into place
- Start the bolts by hand
- Tighten the bolts to the manufacturer's recommended torque
-
step 7 :Reinstalling the Brake Pads
- Check that the caliper slides move smoothly
- Clean the brake pad slides with a wire brush if necessary
- Install the new brake pads into the bracket
- Put the caliper on
- Thread the bolts by hand
- Tighten the bolts to the manufacturer's recommended torque
-
step 8 :Reattaching the Wheel
- Slide the wheel into place
- Start the lug nuts by hand
- Tighten the lug nuts preliminarily
- Lower the vehicle to the ground
- Tighten the lug nuts to between 100 - 120 foot-pounds in a crossing or star pattern
- Reattach the center cap
-
step 9 :Testing the Brakes
- Pump your brakes repeatedly until they feel firm
- Test your brakes at 5 miles per hour and then 10 miles per hour
- Road test the vehicle
Tools needed
-
Funnel
A Piece of Pipe (for leverage)
Socket Extensions
Torque Wrench
Hammer
Jack Stands
Complete Metric Wrench Set
3/8 Inch Drive Ratchet
Liquid Thread Locker
M10 x 7cm bolts
Gear Oil
Flat Blade Screwdriver
Gasket Adhesive
Complete SAE Socket Set
Drain Pan
Ratchet
Complete SAE Wrench Set
Floor Jack
Cloth Rags
1/2 Inch Breaker Bar
Complete Metric Socket Set
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Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
This is part two of a two part series replacing the rear disc brake backing plates on a 2004 Trailblazer, same as any '02 to '09 Trailblazer, Envoy, Bravada, Rainer, Isuzu Ascender and a Saab 9-X. Here's a quick review of all the tools you're going to need and we are going to start out with reconnecting the emergency brake cable.
You want to put your emergency brake back together. Put this on here, first, and then you can push it down, and push it into the cylinder here. There's a little rod that goes in and that goes in right there. Take your brake shoes. They're going to go into a little clip down here and then on there. Now I'm grabbing hold of my spring again. Slip the cable down. Push it into place. It actually goes together a lot easier than it came apart.
I'm going to put the axle back in. You want to lift up on it so it doesn't drag against your seal. Just kind of move it around a little bit and push it in. It just has to find its way on the inside. Here, what you're really hoping is nothing has moved. So, we're going to take our C clamp and the side that has the groove near the center is the one you want to put towards the center. So you just put that on to the axle that's pushing out through right there. Then, you can actually push the axle back by hand. Make sure you have this shaft nice and clean. Put it up in with the hole located at the bottom. This is where you're hoping that these gears didn't move around at all; it would appear that they did just a little bit. I'm going to line it up with my finger. It goes in. Push this in. Start it into place and your axle's locked back in place. As that's going in I'm just going to hit it with a little dab of Loctite. Being greasy and stuff, it's not going to stick that well but that's okay. You want to tighten this up probably about 8 to 10 foot pounds which is tight with this little wrench. That's good.
Now we're going to get back in to cleaning everything up and putting it back together. So, I just wiped down the inside as much as I can. Get as much dirt and everything out of there as possible. Now clean up and wipe down your rear end cover and there's a little triangle, I mean a rectangle there. That's the magnet. Make sure you get that wiped off really well. Right there, I'm displaying it. You can see I cleaned it up better. On this one, you do reuse your gasket and I put just a little bit of sealant on the cover just to help with some of the crustiness from the rust. Now, we'll put our cover up there, start it with a couple of bolts, then start all the bolts by hand and then tighten them preliminarily with a wrench, after that. Now, we skip forward, you want to torque these bolts to about 12-foot pounds. It's not very much but it's enough to seal it. You don't want to over-torque it, because you'll get leaks because you warp your differential cover. About 12-foot pounds, I tighten them kind of using an opposite pattern and then I just go around one by one and just make sure they're all tight.
Now we're going to refill the rear end. There's a plug right on the passenger side. Use a 3/8ths ratchet with an extension, remove that plug and then fill it with 80W90 gear oil. I use a little tube; helps get the bottle in a position so that you can fill it easier. Once you've filled it and the fluid starts dripping down, put your plug back in, and tighten it up. You don't have to tighten it incredibly tight but get it nice and snug and then wipe down all the grease off the rear end so you can check for leaks later.
Now I'm going to put the brakes back together, if you want to see this in regular speed just check out our other videos for the Trailblazer rear brake installation and you can see I've got both a new backing plate and new brakes on there and if you want to see those, just check out our other videos on the whole process for that. So, we'll get through that.
Very important: you've had your brakes apart, you obviously want to torque your lug nuts on there properly and you want to pump your brakes afterwards, make sure that you get your brakes reset and make sure that they're working properly before you test drive the vehicle. Torque the lug nuts to between 100 and 120 foot pounds, kind of use a crossing star type pattern and then you can put your cap back on.
Always make sure after you've had your brakes apart that you pump the pedal a bunch of times working the pressure back up and make sure you work the brake caliber pistons back into place.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
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