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How to Replace ABS Sensor 10-17 GMC Terrain

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  1. step : Removing the Wheel (0:30)
    • Loosen the 22mm lug nuts with the vehicle on the ground
    • Raise the vehicle with a floor jack
    • Secure the vehicle on jack stands
    • Remove the lug nuts
    • Pull off the wheel
  2. step : Removing the Caliper (1:28)
    • Remove the two 14mm bolts from the caliper
    • Lift the caliper off and secure it with a bungee cord
    • Pry out the brake pads with a flat blade screwdriver
    • Loosen the 15mm bolt from the caliper bracket
  3. step : Removing the Brake Shoes (3:38)
    • Hold the rotor still with a wrench
    • Remove the T30 Torx bolt from the rotor
    • Tap the rotor with a hammer if it will not loosen
    • Remove the rotor
    • Remove the spring below the adjustor with a pair of pliers
    • Remove the spring and washers from the brake shoes
    • Remove the adjustor
    • Remove the lower spring from the brake shoes
  4. step : Removing the ABS Sensor (10:05)
    • Remove the Allen bolt with a 3/16 Allen head
    • Turn the ABS sensor out
    • Push the rubber seal through the rear dust boot
    • Disconnect the wiring harness from the ABS sensor
  5. step : Installing the ABS Sensor (11:43)
    • Slide the electrical connection through the dust shield
    • Connect the connector
    • Tighten the Allen bolt to the sensor
  6. step : Installing the Brake Shoes (12:46)
    • Clean the dust shield with brake parts cleaner
    • Coat the metal bumps on the backing plate with anti-seize grease
    • Place the parking brake shoes on and attach the lower spring
    • Coat the adjustor screw with anti-seize grease
    • Insert the adjustor into the parking brake shoes
    • Insert the pins to the brake shoe and secure them with needle nose pliers
    • Tighten the upper spring
    • Adjust the brake shoes
  7. step : Installing the Brake Rotor (16:25)
    • Place the rotor on
    • Tighten the T30 Torx bolt to the rotor
    • Remove the rubber cap
    • Adjust the parking brake with a flat tipped screwdriver
    • Spin the rotor by hand to hear the parking brake shoes touch the rotor
    • Once they're touching the rotor, place the plug on
  8. step : Reinstalling the Brake Caliper and Pads (19:05)
    • Clean off the brake pad slides and the brake caliper
    • Remove the brake pad slides
    • Apply grease to the brake pad slides
    • Place the brake caliper onto the rotor
    • Tighten the caliper bolts
    • Torque the caliper bolts to 92 foot-pounds
    • Apply anti-seize grease to the caliper slides
    • Slide the brake pad onto the caliper
    • Compress the piston into the caliper with a C-clamp
    • Insert the caliper onto the brake pads
    • Tighten the 14mm bolts
    • Torqe the bolts to 20 foot-pounds
  9. step : Reattaching the Wheel (22:13)
    • Slide the wheel into place
    • Start the lug nuts by hand
    • Tighten the lug nuts preliminarily
    • Lower the vehicle to the ground
    • Tighten the lug nuts to 125 foot-pounds in a crossing or star pattern

Hi, I’m Mike from 1A Auto. We’ve been selling auto parts for over 30 years!

Before you do the job, you have to take off the wheel. To do that you need to get a 22 millimeter socket and usually a half inch breaker bar or you could use the lug wrench that comes with the vehicle. Either works. We'll just crack these loose before we jack up the vehicle, and that'll make it easier to take the wheel off in a few minutes.

Now you want to raise and support your vehicle. You can definitely use a jack and jack stands in a driveway. To make it a little easier to film, we're going to be using a vehicle lift. Make sure you use the proper spots on the vehicle to jack it up, which we have another video for. Now we will take the rest of the lug nuts off.

We already loosened them while they were on the ground. This step is real easy. Once the lug nuts are off, you can lift the wheel off the car. You're going to want to take off the two bolts that hold on the caliper. They hold the caliper to the caliper bracket. They're right here and right here and they're 14 millimeter. We'll start by putting a 14 millimeter wrench on the top one and cracking it loose. This one is actually coming out by hand, which is terrific. Sometimes they're a little stuck in there, but not in this case. Then we'll go to this one. This one's coming up too. We're in good shape today.

What I like to do next is grab the caliper and kind of squeeze it. By doing that, it gets the caliper nice and loose. You can just pop it right off. At that point, you want to set the caliper aside. Make sure that it does not hang from the hose because you'll cause damage to the hose and potentially even the caliper.

These are your brake pads. These ones are actually worn out quite well, and they're also stuck in the caliper bracket, which is not ideal. Now we'll do the inside one. Now we want to remove the brake caliper bracket from the knuckle. We'll put a 15 millimeter on to the upper bolt, and we'll crack that loose. We'll do the same thing with the bottom one. Now you could use a wrench or a socket for this, either one will work. This socket's probably a little bit faster but I have a wrench in my hand and they say the closest tool is the best tool, so we'll go with it. There's one bolt. Alright, now you can pull the caliper bracket right off.

Okay, so now we want to take off the rotor. One thing worth noting is that you don't want your parking brake to be on if you're trying to remove the rotor because the parking brake is going to hold the rotor onto the car. First make sure your parking brake is off. Second we're going to take a T30 Torx bit on a 3/8 ratchet, looks like a star and we're going to put it right here. Now a lot of the times, these things are really tight.

What I like to do is I'll take a wrench and go like this and that'll hold the rotor in place. Sometimes it's better if you have a friend doing this and then you can go like this. The bolt is actually becoming loose really easily in this case but a lot of the times these things are stuck really tight. Normally what would happen is you would turn this and the rotor will turn with it and you won't be able to loosen it. Having wrench like this to hold the rotor still is sort of a trick to get around that. Now we'll spin this thing out.

In New England, when you get one of these out. It’s almost a miracle because they almost always have to be drilled out. And it looks like the rotor is going to be stuck on. Now we're going to put some rust penetrant around here and around the lug nuts, and we'll try and get this rotor off. Get the rust penetrant in there. Make sure you rotate it around.

Alright, this is where the job starts to get fun because you get to use hammers. What you're going to want to do is hammer right in between all of these lug nuts until the rotor comes loose. It's basically just stuck around this hub. It's a really common thing to happen, and if you whack it around here, then it'll come loose. The one thing you have to watch out for is hitting these threads. You don't want to hit those because then you have to replace the actual lug or you have to re-thread them, which is also a pain. There we go. And with that loose, you can pull the rotor off.

Right here is what's called a self-adjuster and this thing actually spins, which if you watch this. It spins and it moves the brake shoes out and that actually tightens up your brakes, so that your parking brake works really well. In this case we want to loosen it up as much as possible so that we can make sure the parking brakes are loose when you put it back together.

We're going to start by pushing it down and you can see the gap right in here will get smaller. Right in here the gap is now gone and that's because the whole mechanism kind of shrunk up. Now that that is at its minimum we'll take off this spring. I like to use a pair of needle nose pliers for this or if you have like locking needle nose pliers, those work really well. Now that we got that out of the way. There's a spring and a washer right here and then there's one on the front side as well. We're going to go ahead and pull those off next.

Right here, all you do is hold the back side. There's it almost looks like a nail head on the back of the brake dust shield. All you do is push this down and turn it 90 degrees and this thing will pop right off. They do actually make a tool for this. Not many people have it because it's sort of an outdated tool at this point in life. You can use pliers or whatever you really want. Sometimes a socket works. You can see it's a flat head that turns 90 degrees and locks itself in place. Then on the back, you can pull it out and it sort of looks like a nail like this. This goes on here and you push it together.

Hold on, sorry my hands are in the way. Then it turns 90 degrees and it holds it in place just like that with the spring touching. This side is the same story. What we can do is just push down and turn it 90 degrees. It's a little tricky when things are rusty. There we go. And you don't actually have to pull these out. You can leave them right in the backing plate but this just kind of shows you how it works. The parking brake shoes sit right in the groves of the self-adjuster. You can actually pull this right apart and pull the self-adjuster out.

Dropping half of it. This is what the self-adjuster looks like. Down here is another spring that I was hoping we could get without, get away with not removing. But it looks like we're going to have to remove it. If you just pull it with some needle nose pliers, you should be able to pop it out of the ... There we go, out of the parking brake shoe and there it goes.

Here's one parking brake shoe off. This is the front one. The rear one should be very similar. Although I think it's a little stuck. There we go. There's the rear. Right here is your ABS sensor. It's held on with an Allen head bolt and we're going to remove the Allen head bolt. Pull the ABS sensor out and then pull it right through the dust shield. With a 3/16 Allen head on a quarter drive ratchet, we'll pull that out. And with that out of the way, we should be able to turn this thing and pop it right out of the hub.

With that loosened, we're going to push this rubber seal through the rear dust boot. Okay with the rubber boot out of the backing plate, we can pull on this. But you want to be really gentle with pulling these things out. They're often stuck right in the housing. You may need to wiggle it back and forth and pry a little bit. It does have a little O ring in it that is holding it into the hub. We're going to be really gentle but we're going to pull it out. Here we are. Okay, so now that it’s out of the hub, and it's loose from the backing plate. We can come up here and disconnect the actual electrical harness just by pushing the tab.

Then we can feed the whole thing through the backing plate. There we go. Putting this back in is just as easy as slipping the electrical connection through the dust shield. We'll come up here and we'll plug it in. You have to push it in really hard because it has a rubber seal in it. You want to make sure that you push it in, and then give it a little tug to make sure that it is fully connected.

Then we're going to install this the same way that it came out. Just like that. We'll push the rubber boot into place. Now since this does have a rubber seal in it, you need to give it kind of a hard push. Maybe even a turn to get it to lock into place. Once it's locked, it's going to want to stay right there and that's how you know it's all the way in place.

At this point, we can put the Allen head right back in. Before you reassemble the whole brake system, you're going to want to clean it all off with some brake clean to get all the dust out of there. It's just good practice to do. Whenever you have parking brakes apart, they actually ride on these metal bumps on the backing plate. You'll want to put some sort of brake grease or anti-seize on these spots. You don't want to go too thick because you don't want any of this stuff to get onto the brake pads or shoes. But you just want it on there so that they can actually move around and not dig into the backing plates.

You'll also want it right on the bottom where it meets the actual cable mechanism, that way it won't get all jammed up in there and that way it'll have a long life. Then we can start putting the parking brake shoes right back on. Start with the rear, the rear one. Make sure the spring is in place. Alright, now we'll get this right here.

Okay, so now there's a spring down here on the bottom that we need to hook into the hole right here. We're going to do that next. There we go. This is the self-adjuster taken apart. We want to get a little bit of anti-seize on this as well. That will prevent it from jamming up over time. These are really commonly stuck on a lot of different vehicles and it causes the parking brake to not work. It does have reverse thread for the record. Just wipe off the excess before you install it on the car. Alright, now we're going to insert it in between the parking brake shoes right where it belongs in the top. Alright, next we're going to put the pins in each side with the springs to hold them to the backing plate.

We'll start by putting the pin in. Then we'll make sure that it goes through to the parking brake shoe. Just like that and then the spring. Turn it 90 degrees and then it's right where it should be. We'll do the same for the other side. Now there's one more spring in the top that we have to put into place. It hooks in just like the lower one, though it's a bit easier. With the spring in place, now you can work your self-adjuster up or down. If you're putting the old parking brake shoes right back on, then you can just set this to about where it was before and that'll give you a good starting point. Ours was right around there.

If you're putting new shoes on, then you have it completely bottomed out with no gap right here. Now we're going to install the brake rotor. You want to line up this hole with this taper hole right here. Set it into place just like that. Now you can take your Torx head bolt and get it started by hand. Then you want to tighten it up. This is one of those times where the rotors starting to spin, so you'll want to hold it with one hand and tighten it with another. Right here is the rubber cap that blocks the hole that gives you access to the parking brake adjuster.

What you want to do to adjust the parking brake is put a flat tip screwdriver into the hole with it just about at 12 o'clock. At that point, you can spin the adjuster wheel up. You want to start off with it down and lift up and do it a couple times. Just like this and then spin the rotor by hand and you want to just barely hear it touching, hear the parking brake shoes touch the rotor. We'll do it a little bit more.

As you adjust it, you want to give it a turn or two and then turn the rotor. As soon as you hear the parking brake shoes touch the rotor, that's when you want to stop because that's when they're just about out enough to actually work really well. At this point, I can hear the shoes touching the rotor. But the rotor still spins freely, so now I can put the rubber plug right back in the hole. That protects it from water intrusion and it'll slow down the rust that goes on inside there. You can see that there's some greasy palm prints all around this along with a little anti-seize.

We're going to go ahead and spray that off with some brake clean, and that way when the new pads and the new rotors go together for the first time, it'll be a nice clean environment for them and there won't be any grease or other material messing up the brakes. Then be sure to do the back side as well. Now we want to clean the caliper bracket because you want your brake pads to be able to move freely within the bracket. This one is kind of dirty, so we're going to clean it up as best we can.

We're going to be using a parts washing tank because it makes the job a little bit easier. But you can easily just use brake clean and a scrub brush. Really you could use a variety of things. You could probably use dish soap if you really wanted to. But brake clean works ideal for this and so does a parts washing tank. We're going to use the parts washing tank anda scrub brush to try and get all the debris off of the caliper bracket slides. Before you put your caliper bracket back on the knuckle, you want to make sure that these slides will move freely in and out. If they're stuck in any way, then you want to pull them out, clean then really well, add a thin coat of grease, and then put them back together again. Sometimes if you put too much grease in here, it will actually create a hydraulic effect. Where it'll always want to push the thing out and you don't want that to happen.

You always want to use a very, very thin coat of grease whenever you're greasing these slides. Ours are actually in really good shape and they slide perfectly. We're going to leave them as is and just mount the caliper bracket back on the car. You want to reinstall your two caliper bracket bolts and hand tighten them first. Then you can go back with your wrench or your ratchet and snug them up. Now we're going to use our torque wrench to torque these two bolts to 92 foot pounds. Now we're going to put a little bit of anti-seize on the caliper slides. You don't want to get any on the rotor itself because it will obviously affect your braking. Now we'll slide the rear brake pad in, the back one. Then we'll do the front one.

Now we need to compress the piston back into the caliper. You can use a block of wood for this with a C clamp. Sometimes the C clamp by itself will work just fine. We'll go ahead and compress that piston. Now we'll remove the caliper or the clamp I should say. And we should be able to slide this right onto the brake caliper bracket. Now we can reinstall our two 14 millimeter bolts and we'll torque these to 20 foot-pounds.

We're now at a point where we can put the wheel back on and we'll loosely install all of the lug nuts by hand. With the vehicle back on the ground, you can torque the lug nuts to 125 foot-pounds. Make sure you do it in a star pattern. The last thing you want to do is get in the vehicle and pump the brakes a few times. That way the brake fluid goes out to the calipers and pressurizes the whole system and now you'll feel a nice firm pedal and you're safe to start the vehicle.

Thanks for watching. Visit us at 1AAuto.com for quality auto parts, fast and free shipping, and the best customer service in the industry.

Tools needed for replacement:

    General Tools

  • Large C-Clamp
  • Hammer
  • Jack Stands
  • Floor Jack

  • Hex Wrenches

  • 3/16 Allen Wrench

  • Materials, Fluids, and Supplies

  • Rust Penetrant
  • Brake Parts Cleaner
  • Anti-Seize Grease
  • Cloth Rags

  • Pliers, Cutters & misc Wrenches

  • Needle nose pliers

  • Ratchets & Related

  • Socket Extensions
  • Torque Wrench
  • Ratchet
  • 1/2 Inch Breaker Bar

  • Screwdrivers & Related

  • Flat Blade Screwdriver

  • Sockets - Metric

  • 14mm Socket
  • 15mm Socket
  • 22mm Socket

  • Star Drivers & Sockets

  • T30 Driver

  • Wrenches - Metric

  • 14mm Wrench
  • 15mm Wrench


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