Created on: 2012-03-02
Learn how to replace the front axle vacuum actuator on your 94-04 GMC Sonoma or Chevy Blazer. 1A Auto will show you how to do it in this video.
13mm Socket
Socket Extensions
Flat Blade Screwdriver
8mm Wrench
1/4 Inch Socket
8mm Socket
7mm Socket
Telescope magnet
Slip-Joint Pliers
Ratchet
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Hi. I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1aauto.com. Thanks.
In this video we're going to replace the vacuum actuator for the front axle on this 2003 S15 Sonoma same as any S15 pickup as well as the Jimmy. Also the same as the S10 Blazer and pickup for the Chevrolet and these things sit under the battery so they can be exposed to some extreme conditions and sometimes the rubber diaphragm can dry out and crack and break and cause it not to operate.
Tools you'll need are an 8-mm wrench or socket and ratchet to disconnect the battery, 7-mm, 1/4-inch and 13-mm sockets. I use the ¼ inch because some of my bolts were a little bit rusty and then some pliers and a small flat blade screw driver.
Okay take an 8-mm wrench or socket and ratchet and disconnect your negative battery cable and your positive battery cable. Speed up here as I do that. I disconnect them and I pull the cables right over here. I'll use a 13-mm socket with a ratchet extension and remove this bolt and this clamp. Speed up again as I remove that battery mounting bolt and the mount itself. Okay, so once those are removed, take the battery right out. Okay you want to remove your battery tray. You want to remove two bolts into the radiator support one there and then one right here. Those are 13-mm. Speed up again as I remove those two bolts. Okay now pull the back of the tray up and off that bolt and right out.
Now right in here is your top of your cable. You should be able to take this, squeeze it and that should move pretty easily. Okay sometimes these cables will get frozen up and they won't move if you don't use them very often. To unhook the cable all you want to do is pull up on this little clip. It's like a wire clip. Pull it up and out. Okay, and then you can see that the cable can come right out.
Okay, here in your passenger's wheel well, I've turned the well all the way to the left. There are two bolts that hold that bracket. I'm going to remove those. Fast forward here as we remove those two 13-mm bolts. Now I can bring this right up and use a pair of pliers and squeeze these teeth right here. Force the cable through. And now you want to use a . these bolts are 7mm but they were pretty rusty and crusty on this vehicle so I used 7mm and I'm able to get that middle one out, but then I shift down to a ¼ inch socket and you'll see that later to try and get it on to the other two bolts. You can see I put it on there and it basically just kind of slips off of it because the head of the bolt is so rusted. Okay so 7mm didn't work so I went down to ¼ inch standard size. I'll see if I can hem this on there.
Okay here's the new part from 1A Auto. As I said there's nothing wrong with my old one so I'm going to reinstall my old one on this vehicle, but the new one is just like the original. It's going to mount into the bracket correctly. Okay, it has the wire clip and everything. All you do is insert the cable in there and make sure it locks in well.
Speed it up here again as a reassemble the old actuator on there and again tighten these bolts up. You want to make them snug but not too tight. And now grab your bolts and make sure you reconnect the vacuum line and reach back under and mount in the 13-mm bolts that hold that bracket.
Here I'm fast forwarding through. I'm holding the actuator and bracket in my other hand that you can't see and then just threading the bolt in from the wheel well side and then tightening them up nice and snug. Again, they don't have to be extremely tight. Make sure we have our clip in place for this actuator here and put the cable through and in there. Make sure the cable goes in there and actually push it in so that they're moving as one. Okay. Push the cable into the bracket here and use a small screw driver to pry up those ears and make sure it's locked in place.
Okay, before you go and put your battery tray in, what happens a lot is the clip get knocked off up here or your clip up on your headlight. Okay pull your headlight out and usually that clip falls right down in here. And here I'm using a little extendable magnet to fish the clip out. Put our lights back in place. This clip goes right back on here like that. Okay now I'm going to put the battery tray in. You want to put the front down in first and then the back down over the bolt. Put the two bolts into the radiator support and then you'll put the battery back down in, put the mount in and then the nut and you should be all finished. Then reconnect your battery. You want to connect the positive cable first and then the negative cable and you should be all set to go.
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