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How to Perform Complete Second Service 04-13 BMW 325 Ci

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Hi. I'm Mike from 1A Auto. We've been selling auto parts for over 30 years.

Hey everyone. Sue here from 1A Auto and today, on our '06 BMW 325Ci, we are performing service inspection number two. To do the service you need a cabin filter, air filter and spark plugs. If you need these parts or any other parts for your car, click on the link below and head on over to

These are the parts you'll need in a service two for this BMW. The fuel filter is for every second service two and there's a small list of visual check overs as far as brake lines, hoses, CV shaft, boots and brake fluid test.

Open the hood on this '06 325Ci. The lever is on the drivers side, left foot kick panel right here. It's a long black handle, just pull on it and the hood pops up. The nice thing about this BMW, the hood latch lever pops right out of the grill area and you just pull up on that and life the hood open. The first spot is it's located in the center of the engine compartment, right below the windshield. You get three little clips here and you just turn them to the side and they pop right up; they're spring loaded. Once those are popped up, you just grab this lid and slide it right out.

Then we're going to lift up the actual seals that goes around this compartment area because we're going to take this out. You're going to have four T-40 bolts. You can see them located up on that firewall. Using a torques bits screwdriver, I'm just gonna take them all out, right across. I'm just going to remove this sheathing so that I can take these wires and make sure that I don't break the tabs to get the battery cable and electrical wiring harness. Now we're going to lift up on this housing and get that out of the way.

In order to take the engine cover off, we took that out of the way, the cowl up there and now I'm going to take these little covers with a small screwdriver. Just pop them out, It looks like it's a 10 millimeter and also you're going to need to take the oil cover off. Set that right there. 10 millimeter socket, I'm going to take these two mounting nuts off this cover, set those aside. Just grab onto that cover and lift it right up out of the way.

Now, I'm just going to place the oil cover back on because I just don't want any dirt or accidents to happen of something falling down in that crank case. To disconnect the ignition coil harness, these are little levers that pop up, I like to take a flat head screwdriver and I just give myself a little leverage and then you can watch it actually disconnect itself and push the harness out. It's a really nice design. The you just push your finger right into that hole and give it a twist and pull up and there's your ignition coil.

Now I'm going to take a number one cylinder spark plug out and I'm going to use a spark plug socket that we sell here at 1A Auto on our website and it is a 5/8 extended, all one piece and it's great for deep cylinder holes like this. BMW is notorious for. We'll take that right out. There is our spark plug and you can see the crossfire, it's four pin crossfire. This is a magnetic style. The magnet holds onto it and locks it in.

Before I install my new spark plug, because it's a crossfire; four piece crossfire, there is no gaping, but we do, do a visual and make sure that ... you know, accidents happen, this could have been dropped at the factory before it went in the box. You want to make sure the prongs are look like visually, the equal distance and that the ceramic is not cracked and that includes on this part of the ceramic. Everything checks out good for this plug, so I'm going to install it. Always install spark plugs by hand first. You don't want to cross thread an aluminum head, that is not a project you wish to tackle. There are torque specs to this, so what I do is, I just take my 3/8 and I'll just snug it. Crush that washer a little bit and I'll go get my torque specs and torque it down.

There are two sets of specs for this. If it is a 12 millimeter spark plug, the specs are 14.8-19.2 foot pounds. If it's 14 millimeter it is 20-24 foot pounds. I'm going with 5/8 so I'm going with the 14 millimeter and I'm going to set this at 21 foot pounds. Now, before I install my new coil, you can see a little bit of dry dialectic grease they install at the factory. I'm just going to add just a little bit more, nothing too generous. I'm going to set it up, line it right up, push it down, feel it physically click in. Make sure it's sealed all the way around; that rubber seal and line up my connector and then bring this right down and lock it.

Now, we're going to continue this down and do the same procedure on the next five cylinders.

Now that I've done all my coils and spark plugs, I'm ready to install the engine cover again. I will remove the oil fill cover, slide this down through, replace that and I have the two mounting 10 millimeter nuts, 10 millimeter socket size. Being a plastic cover, I'm just gonna really just snug it down, there's no need to crank that down. There you go. Then these two covers. Line up the grooves. You'll see the little indent tab here. It's in the front part and then the two longer tabs. Now I'm going to put that plastic cowl back in and I'm just going to line it up and place it right in. There we go. Get the back screw started, just pop 'em into place. Take your T-30 start 'em. I recommend starting all of them before you tighten it all the way down. Okay. Now I'm just going to tighten it down. They're all started, I know it's in the place it's supposed to be.

Now I'm going to put the positive cable back into the housing, going to mount that on the inner beginner clip, right on over to the other side. The positive cable goes down right there and then this harness with the loom, we'll clip into this. We'll take the under piece and line it up. There's tabs on the back, tabs on the front, just line 'em up and snap it right back up in there. There you go.

To install your cabin filter, you've got a tab right here on the bottom, in the middle, I'm sorry, and two tabs on each side. You'll see that there's a notch right here that, that tab in the center is going to line up to and the two side tabs. Just slide it right in easily and line that center tab up, line this side and then go line up the other side. Now we're going to install the cover and tat just slides right down in the back there and you line up these little tabs, push down and twist.

Now we can install the seal. Just push it down and go all the way around. I'm going to put this one on before I go over there. Then we're all set.

The fuel filter is located on the undercarriage, right below the drivers seat and there is a splash shield here that we need to take down and it's going to have a eight millimeter socket that holds these bolts on. There's two in the center, one in the rear and then one up in the front, actually, two up in the front. Okay, now that I've got all the mounting mechanism off, I'm going to grab the shield and pull it right down.

The new fuel filter does not come with the rubber hoses that are on the steel lines from the factory and this is all undercoating and it looks wet, but it's not, it's just the shininess to it. Make sure you look at your lines and it's not dry rotted and cracked. I'm going to use a flat headed screwdriver and disconnect my three clamps for the inlets and the outlet hoses. I don't know if your car is gonna have the undercoating on it, but it can be more of a pain when it comes to working on it. I am going to disconnect the hoses at the filter, I don't want to disconnect them down here and then transfer 'em around. The minimal movement on those probably the better. Okay. Then there's one line in the front. Then there's a vent line right here, that you just pull off.

Now that I have my fuel lines all un-clamped, I'm going to take the holding bracket off and that's a 10 millimeter socket and I sprayed it with a little bit of rust penetrating because I don't want this to break. If I feel like it gets too tough, I'm going to go back the other way and work it. Unfortunately, the stud is part of the floor, I do believe. There you go. All right. Gonna get a flat head screwdriver or a little pry bar, pry down on this. There you go. It hooks in the back. Now I get a pair of needle nose, a curve to it and I'm going to try to break these rubber hoses free without damaging them. I'm not going to take them all the way off until I get a bucket because fuel really will come out.

Okay, let's get a bucket. My catch basin is underneath, let's see what we get coming out; how much? Yep, it's under pressure, that's why I have glasses on. That's the return line. I'm going to move a little bit quick here because I want to put the new filter in before too much gas comes out. I'm gonna connect these two back ones first, then I'll connect the front one. Put my vent line on and now I can take my flat head screwdriver and snug down the clamps. I'm using an adjustable pair of pliers to tighten these clamps.

The style of this, must be a European specialty tool. It's flat on two sides and it's got a slot for a screwdriver to loosen, but you cannot tighten it with a screwdriver because the middle side is missing to go clockwise, so what I've been doing is, lining up my clamp, closing the adjustable pliers like this and then just tightening it. It actually worked out pretty good. It's not that hard, It's not a socket. I thought it was at first, but it's just two complete flat sides and then missing the middle for the cutout. I want to make sure this is tight, we are going to run it and then before we put the shield on, I strongly recommend running it, then you'll raise it up or get underneath and look for leaks, then you put the shield on.

I'm going to put the clamp on first. If you see in the back here, the piece of metal with some eyelets in it, you're going to line those up and then push it right up into the stud and then put the nut back on. That's a 10 millimeter socket, we'll tighten that right down.

I've run it. I let it run for a little bit. Shut it off, lifted it up and as you can see, everything is dry. I have no fuel leaks. I hope the same for you and now we're ready to put the shield back up. I'm going to line the front two studs and then line up the back here. I'll put one in by hand and then I can let go of the plate. With a eight millimeter socket, I'm going to tighten these right up. Okay.

Thanks for watching. Visit us at for quality auto parts, fast and free shipping and the best customer service in the industry

Tools needed for replacement:

    Pliers, Cutters & misc Wrenches

  • Needle nose pliers

  • Ratchets & Related

  • Socket Extensions
  • Torque Wrench
  • Ratchet

  • Screwdrivers & Related

  • Flat Blade Screwdriver
  • Phillips Head Screwdriver

  • Sockets - Metric

  • 8mm Socket
  • 10mm Socket

  • Sockets - SAE

  • 5/8 Inch Spark Plug Socket

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