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How to Install Trail Ridge Tow Mirrors 14-18 Toyota Tundra

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How to Install Trail Ridge Tow Mirrors 14-18 Toyota Tundra

Created on: 2018-03-26

How to install Trail Ridge plug and play upgrade mirrors on 14 Toyota Tundra.

  1. step 1 :Removing the Front Door Panel
    • Pry up the plastic window switch
    • Disconnect the wiring harness
    • Pry off the sail panel
    • Pry out the plastic trim behind the door handle
    • Remove the Phillips screw behind the door handle
    • Remove the Phillips screw in the door pull
    • Pry out the trim clip on the door panel
    • Pry out the door panel
    • Lift the door panel up and off
    • Disconnect the door handle and door lock cables
  2. step 2 :Removing the Speaker
    • Disconnect the speaker wiring harness
    • Remove the four 10mm bolts from the speaker
    • Lift the speaker off
  3. step 3 :Removing the Tow Mirrors
    • Disconnect the mirror harness
    • Remove the three 10mm nuts from the mirror
    • Remove the mirror
  4. step 4 :Installing the New Powerfolding Mirror
    • Disconnect the yellow and purple wire harness
    • Tuck the yellow and purple wire harness in
    • Weave the spotlight wiring through the rubber grommet piece
    • Press the rubber grommet piece onto the mirror
    • Insert the mirror into place
    • Insert the wiring harness, powerfold connector, and the spotlight wiring through the door
    • Tighten the nuts by hand to hold the mirror in place
    • Tighten the 10mm bolts to the mirror
    • Connect the wiring harness
  5. step 5 :Wiring the Spotlight Wiring on the New Powerfolding Mirror
    • Pry off the rocker panel with a trim tool
    • Remove the 10mm plastic nut from the foot panel
    • Pry the footwell panel back off the ledge
    • Remove the two 10mm bolts from the knee/lower dash panel
    • Pry the lower dash out
    • Connect the spotlight wire
    • Run the spotlight wire down to the speaker
    • Cut off the end of the wire
    • Feed wire through the rubber grommet
    • Hook the wire around the spotlight wire
    • Pull the wire through the grommet
    • Remove the hook and feed the spotlight wire through the grommet
    • Press the grommet into place
    • Tape the spotlight harness along the mirror wiring harness
    • Loosen the negative battery terminal with a 10mm wrench
    • Hook the spotlight wire through the accordion boot
    • Disconnect the airbag connector from the door
    • Pull the wires out from the door jamb
    • Open the tape on the wires with a razor blade
    • Insert the wire through the boot in the door jamb
    • Fish the spotlight wire through the rubber boot in the door jamb
    • Tape the spotlight wire to the wiring to secure it
  6. step 6 :Wiring the Powerfolding Harness Wiring on the New Powerfolding Mirror
    • Shorter end belongs on the driver side
    • Insert the fishing wire through the wiring harness boot in the door jamb
    • Make a hook with the fish wire
    • Let the harness connector sit on the fish wire hook
    • Tape the harness to the hook
    • Pull the harness through the boot into the speaker crevice
    • Pull the wiring harness up to the mirror so there is enough play
    • Remove the tape and hook from the powerfold harness
    • Connect the powerfold harness to the harness on the mirror
    • Pull the powerfold wiring and the spotlight wiring through the opening in the door, as well as the harnesses previously removed
    • Tape the harness to the wiring
    • Tape the wiring to the boot in the door jamb
    • Connect the boot to the door and the vehicle in the door jamb
    • Connect the air bag wiring harness
  7. step 7 :Wiring the Passenger Side
    • Run a fishing wire between the heater box and firewall in the passenger footwell
    • Tape the spotlight and powerfolding mirror to a hook on the fishing wire in the driver side footwell
    • Pull the wires between the heater box to the passenger footwell
    • Skip to step 1 to remove the door panel
    • Repeat steps 1-6 for the passenger side
  8. step 8 :Wiring the Excess Wire
    • Pry out the lower passenger dash panel trim with a trim tool
    • Tape the white spotlight wire to the harness wire
    • Insert the wire up into the dash
    • Tape the excess wire to the wiring in the dash
    • Press the lower dash cover into place
    • Pull the driver side lower dash trim down and out
    • Feed excess wire through the dash
  9. step 9 :Installing the Switch
    • Cut any excess wire
    • Strip the ends of the wire
    • Connect the wires with a butt connector
    • Add a splicer to the dark brown thin 12v power bed light wire harness in the dash
    • Connect a butt connector to the splicer
    • Tighten the negative battery terminal with a 10mm socket
    • Turn on the bed light switch
    • Pop the trim panel out to the right of the ignition
    • Remove the blank trim door
    • Pop the switch into the trim piece
    • Thread the wire to the left side of the dash
    • Cut the inline fuse from the wire
    • Connect the wire with a butt connector
    • Tape the switch wire with the powerfolding wire
    • Connect the switch wiring harness to the switch
    • Zip tie any excess wire, such as powerfolding wire
    • Press on the dash trim
  10. step 10 :Removing the Fuse Panel Cover
    • Remove the fuse panel cover
    • Locate MIR 15 amp from the legend on the back
    • Remove the 15 am fuse
    • Connect the 15 amp MIR fuse to the add-a-fuse
    • Connect the 5 amp folding mirror amp to the add-a-fuse
    • Cut off any excess wire
    • Connect the butt connector
    • Cover the connection with electrical tape
    • Connect the add-a-fuse
    • Attach a ground wire to the factory ground with a 10mm socket and ratchet
    • Tighten the lower trim panel bolt
  11. step 11 :Replacing the Panels and Door Panel
    • Press the footwell panel into place
    • Tighten the bolt to the footwell panel
    • Press on the rocker panel
  12. step 12 :Installing the Front Door Panel
    • Insert the speaker into place
    • Connect the wiring harness
    • Tighten the 10mm bolt to the speaker
    • Connect the door handle and lock cables
    • Lift the door panel on
    • Clip in the door panel
    • Press on the trim clip to the door panel
    • Tighten the Phillips screw to the door pull
    • Tighten the Phillips screw to the door handle
    • Press on the sail panel
    • Connect the wiring harness to the window switch
    • Press on the window switch
    • Repeat the process for the passenger side

Tools needed for replacement

  • General Tools


  • Materials, Fluids, and Supplies

    Wire or String

    Electrical Tape

    Butt Connectors

    Wire Ties

  • Pliers, Cutters & misc Wrenches

    Wire Cutters

  • Ratchets & Related

    Socket Extensions


  • Screwdrivers & Related

    Flat Blade Screwdriver

    Phillips Head Screwdriver

  • Sockets - Metric

    10mm Socket

Installation Video
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Hi, I’m Mike from 1A Auto. We’ve been selling auto parts for over 30 years!

Remove the master window switch. We'll use a plastic prying tool. You can get this from 1A Auto. This way we don't damage the trim. You can gently slide it up in here, and help pop it up off the clips. There's a clip on this side, so we're going to work it in. Basically just trying to pull it straight up off of these white hooks here, and then these clips here that push into the door panel. The lock on the connector is here. Push that in. Pull the connector out.

Use my plastic trim tool to help me. Kind of a small clip. I want to push it in and take you off. Remove the small trim. It's on top of the door panel. Use the plastic trim tool again. Underneath here, gently pry it off. You can almost access the mirror but we'll have to take the rest of the door panel off. Screw behind the for pull handle. There's a plastic trim that's covering it, so again use a plastic trim tool. You'll go in here and pop this out. There's four clips and pops right out. Use a Phillips head screwdriver. Remove the screw.

Inside the door pull handle there's this little felt pad. We'll lift that up and get it out of here. There's a Phillips head screwdriver sitting right in the bottom there that needs to be removed. Let's remove this push clip. Actually take a small flat bladed screwdriver. You push in on it. That unlocks it. Then I'm going to use the plastic trim tool to pop it up and out. The door panel should now just be clipped in place with those screws removed there's clips along the outside edge. To take them off, you're going to have to start usually at the bottom of the door because the top of the door rolls over the sheet metal. Give it a good pull to try to separate it. Then lift it up.

Door cables for the lock and the pull handle are connected. This top one is the lock. It's the white cable. I'm going to push it up to unlock it and then move it over. Slide that little lead ball out of there. The green one is for the door pull handle, so pop that up and out and then pull these out. These are called bowden cables. We put the door panel aside.

To remove the speaker, unplug it by pushing the lock in. Pretty stiff lock on here. Pull it out. There's four 10 millimeter bolts on the outside edge holding it in. They also have a Phillips head cut into them. You can use the Phillips head or the 10 millimeter socket extension and ratchet, which is what I'm going to use. Simply unscrew them all. Just pull it out. It's got a little bit of a seal to it. Unplug the mirror harness. Push up on the lock that's on the bottom and pull the connector right out. Unbolt the mirror.

There's three studs with 10 millimeter nuts on them. Use a 10 millimeter socket extension ratchet. We'll loosen them all up. The mirror is clipped in place. Take the mirror off. It is clipped in there. So right here, so I'm just going to give it good little tug here.

Here's our original mirrors we pulled from our vehicle and our upgrade trail ridge towing mirrors from These have a manual extension for towing. You can close it. However these do have power fold, so I can't do it manually to show you because you will damage the mechanism, but when we install them we'll power them up and they will open, or they will fold and unfold using power. They have a running light here. A turn signal light here. These are all LED. There is also LED spotlights that need to be wired in. These are not plug and play, you'll have to do some wiring on your own to get them to work but we will show you how to do that. The mirror is power—it is heated. This particular one also has blind spot monitoring.

The lower mirror is manual. You can set that and adjust it to where you want it when you're towing. They have all the same style mounting hardware and connector as the original. Included with the mirrors is a premade wiring harness for the powerfold. Comes with the switch, you'll have to run this harness yourself and them find power for it. It comes with a length of wire for power and ground, and included fuse holder.

The longer side of the harness will go to passenger side of the vehicle. The shorter side will go to the driver side. Then of course you'll mount the plug somewhere within the driver's reach depending on your application, and it's totally up to you where you want to mount it in the trim panel. There's also some instructions and a template for cutting a hole for this, but we'll show you that during the install.

There is included wire to install the spot lights. The longer one would come from the passenger side. So this would actually clip up into the mirror. There's a matching female plug. The shorter one would be on the driver side. There's two switches, so you can optionally control each mirror spotlight separately or you can write them into one switch if you like, and some extra wire to connect to the switches.

So these upgraded mirrors, we're going to use the, since the truck is not prewired for powerfold, we're going to disconnect it from the factory wiring harness, this wire here. Clip these in. Pull it apart. Our adapter harness will plug into here. Just want to make sure that that comes out, and this, this can be tucked back in here. This white wire will be or spotlight power wire, and we're going to install the rubber grommet piece, or trim piece that's behind the mirror.

Push all these connectors through so that they will come through the door panel. That just sits in there. This provides a nice seal against the door frame. We'll guide those through the opening in the door panel. So make sure you have a good grip on these—they do have some weight to them. Helps to have the window down. We guide all the wires through.

Give myself some more wire. Guide the two smaller wires through, and then the whole connector, and at the same time I'll feed the mirror studs into the door opening. Make sure I have a good grip on the mirror. I don't want to drop it. I'll get the first nut caught on this upper stud that way the mirror doesn't fall off. Then I'll attach the other two. Just the socket extension. Thread these down.

The nut right into the socket on the stud. Thread it down. I'll tighten it in. When I feel it get snug, I'll stop. I don't want to rip the stud out of the plastic of the mirror. Do the same for all three of them. Okay. Plug the factory connector in. Since we're going to wire up, if your vehicle was equipped with powerfold this would be plugged into the original harness. You could plug in your factory harness and it should work plug and play. But since we're adding it, we're going to leave it out. The same thing for the spotlight. We're going to start by removing this little trim here. Should pop up.

Also have the plastic prying tool. You can get these from Start to pop it up. Put that aside. Right down in here there's a plastic nut. It is 10 millimeter, so if it's too hard for you to turn with your fingers, you can put a socket on here and turn it off just like that, but it's already pretty loose, so I can take it off with my fingers. There are two clips on the inside of this panel. The panel slides straight of, not this way. Straight off this way, so we're going to pull it and try to slide it backwards. Grab this way. Slide it out.

So I got it off the two clips. There's a push clip here and a push clip here for it that it slides off of. I'll put that trim aside. There's two 10 millimeter bolts on the bottom of the knee panel that will need to be removed. Going to go for the inner one here. I've got my 10 millimeter socket extension and ratchet. Remove this bolt. I'll remove this one here. So this panel clips into the dash board. Kind of reach your hand up here into the steering column area and it just comes out with not a lot of force.

I'll pull it down and I'll go over to this side and do the same thing. It splits right here and it's going to come out around the knee airbag. So I'll reach underneath, just kind of pop it out. Then I can let it hang because it does have the hood release cable on it. It does have this harness here. Doesn't need to fully come out at the moment, so I'll just let it sit like that. We'll need run wires for the mirror.

We're going to follow the original harness. I'll zip tie the wires right to it. Going to run in through this grommet here, going behind. The speaker is removed. You don't need to run the wire through this loop here in the harness. We'll run them right here. It's going to go through the rubber accordion boot between the door panel, and it'll come out inside here. Difficult to see, but I'm pulling the door harness just gently. You can see it moving. So the door harness comes out into the interior here.

I'm going to run our wires along there. We'll start with the spotlight wire. I'm going to plug it in. Then it's going to run along here. At the very end we zip tie everything together. So in the end I'm not going to use this connector here, so I'm going to cut it off. It'll make it easier to fish this wire. Just using some side cutters. Cut it off right at the end, so I have the most length of wire possible. Get super stiff piece of mechanic's wire, but it's also pretty thing.

I'm going to carefully feed it through the opening in this rubber grommet. See if I can bend it a little bit. Because it's kind of got to go at an angle and up and in. Can actually pop that out and then I can see the wire right here. I'm just going to make a little loop with my fingers. You may need needle nose if this is really stiff wire, but I can make it with my fingers. Just kind of make it so that it's not going to get caught. Then we'll just pull this through.

It'll pull out of there just like that. That's perfect. Then I can feed this end out. All right. I'll push this grommet back up into place just like that. Want to hold this wire in place while I work, so I'm just going to take some electrical tape. Tape it right to the original harness. Couple loops of it. Use a razor blade.

Carefully cut it and that'll be in place just like that. I like to run it along the original harness here. Put a loop right where there's other electrical tape. Do the same right there. We're just going to clip this up and out of my way for now. I will need to lower it again later. We follow this harness. It goes up through this little accordion boot. It goes into the interior. It's right there.

I'm going to fish the wire through the accordion boot and grab this one and pull it back. Use a 10 millimeter wrench to disconnect the negative terminal of the battery. Loosen up the terminal and put it aside. This is the door harness. I'm just gently tugging on it, you can see it, it's moving the accordion boot. I'm just going to follow these down and I'm going to unplug them from the body harness. I'll put this one here. Unplug this one here.

Reach down and unlock this one here. This yellow connector is the connector for the airbag sensor in the door. With the battery disconnected, use a small flat bladed screwdriver to open the lock to this white part here. It will unplug. I'm just going to put the lock back in here so it doesn't get lost. Then pull off of this connector. Then I can feed this whole harness out. So I'll pull the rubber boot out of the body.

I'll actually push it into the door. Now that I can see that there's a little bit of an opening there I will gently kind of pull these wires out this way. Feed these out. Just carefully pull them out of the opening, probably one connector at a time. All right. This is much easier to feed the wires through this harness now. Just going to carefully open it with a razor blade.

Don't want to cut too deep. Just open up the electrical tape just like that. Peel it back and away. We'll replace this electrical tape afterwards. Take our fishing wire/mechanics wire that we're going to fish the wires through with. Use a little bit of mild hand soap, so that it slides through the rubber part. Push it in and guide it through the accordion part. There it is, it's coming in through the door. Pull this through.

We'll loop our wire around it. Push it back in here. Get some more soap on here. Put some soap over the wire. Some on the wire. Gently pull the wire back through. Okay. That's good. We'll leave enough so it sits with the other wires.

Powerfold harness is going to be trickier to install. It has this connector on it. It's going to have to go from the interior side into the door panel and not the other way around because you don't want to have to fish all of this through. You won't. So we'll get this started. The shorter end is going to go on the driver side. The longer end we will feed over to the passenger side afterwards. But everything that we're doing in the door right now, fishing these wires through, will be identical for the passenger side aside from running this wire all the way over.

So I'm going to push the fishing wire that we're using to fish the harness through, through the door harness boot. It's somewhere here. There it is. Get it out here where I can work on it. What I'm going to do is open up this loop just like that, and I will put a hook that's in like this. Close the loop around it and then take some electrical tape and make like a little tear drop shape for it to help it slide through the accordion boot.

I will put some mild dish soap on there to help this slide through the rubber, and also on here. This is going to come through as well. Wipe my hands off and we'll feed this through. We'll grab this end and also push this end. Guide it into here past this part. There it is here. Guide this out. All right. That's enough. I can pull it back through. Take the tape off. This grommet is a lot shorter, we'll actually just pop it out a little bit and then you can kind of go straight up through.

Feed that through. Push this back into place. Plug it in. I'll tape up the harness to the original one. Pull it back through, leaving enough extra. So the tape sits along here near the original. I went down here taped it down here. I don't think I need to tape it right here. I'm just going to pull it through the little accordion boot here, feed it through. It'll sit just like that. And then I will pull it through the door one. I'll make it sort of line up with the original wires just like that.

I'm going to tape this rubber part of the accordion boot back up to the wiring harness. Make a real tight wrap around once and then work it down the wires just like that right back to where the original tape was. We can cut it and pull it nice and tight and warp it up. What I should have done is run this harness through that opening in the body first before I went through here. I didn't. You can do that during your install. It's not a big deal. It's not the end of the world. I can run this extra harness. It'll just be a little bit extra work to untangle here, and I'm just going to run this harness through that opening, and we'll be good to go.

Slide it up in here. I'm going to start with this one. We're not going to try to do it all at once. Kind of reach in here and find it. Just past one finger to the other finger. We'll feed this part out. So I'm getting to this end here. Pass this end through. Careful you get it all the way through and pass these power wires through. Might have to unpush tie them. Little bit extra work but not a big deal in the end. So I'll pass this harness back through so that's all ready to go. Now I'm going to run this white wire in. We can reach right in here. It's right there. Get that one. Now feed the factory harness in. So I might actually pull it through the door a little bit to give me some space and gently bend these up and into position. Reach up and grab them. Make sure you're not getting caught on anything. Think I have one caught here. That over here. There we are. Feed them all through.

Push this grommet back into the body. Oops, we gotta push it into the door first. Push it into the opening. Grab it this way, just pop it into place. It's got a little seal, it'll sit, and then this has a little lip that sits in the sheet metal. Push it up and just work it in, nice and sealed. These are all keyed, there's two blue ones, but their different sizes. The white one went in first over here. Clicks and locks into place. This one goes in down here, and this one goes in down here.

Hook up the airbag one back up. This goes back up this way and then the lock goes down, and it's locked in place. And here's our two new wires that we've run inside the vehicle. I've run a gun over to the passenger side foot well, and I've run a wire over that we're using to fish the harness wires through, and I've pushed it between the heater box and the fire wall. Now I'm going to electrical tape the harness to it for our power fold wire and spot light wire, and then pull them through so they can be installed on the other side.

Loop this one on it, just like we did through the door harness. Wanna pull this one at the same time. Put them in place. Wrap tape around it. Little tape to start. Some more tape in here, make it more of a sleeker shape so it slides easily. Get this started, I'll go over to the passenger side and pull it through. Now I'll just pull it through gently. It may help to have someone assist you, to just feed it through. There we go. Hold the wires. Just pull them through. Make sure they don't get wrapped around the gas pedal or the brake pedal or steering column. We'll come back and wrap those appropriately afterwards, tidy everything up. Going to give myself plenty of harness to work with on the passenger side.

To remove the door panel, the procedure will be exactly the same as the driver side. We'll untape these. Connect them to the mirror and then I'll run them back down, pull the excess back into the interior of the truck. All done with this wire here, put it away. Make sure these are untangled. Start with this one for the spotlight. I'm going to run it right along the original harness. I've got a lot of extra wire so I can pull this back in. This plugged in. Powerfold harness. Going to go up. Plug in place and then I'll run these along the harness, tape them up, and take care of the excess. Pull this excess wire back through. Same thing with this. I'll pull the excess through this harness. Tape up this harness. Feed this through the door panel. Pull these out. Get rid of some of the excess. Come through the other opening. Feed them through. Push this harness into place. The grommet sits in there. Pull this one through. Push it back into the body. It'll seat in the sheet metal just like that.

Make sure this wire doesn't get tangled up with the factory harnesses. These are our wires we want, and these are going to go back. Where is the yellow connector? Don't want to forget that. That's for the airbag sensor. Plug these blue ones back in. They only plug in one way. It's a click when they're locked in place. This one, we'll put up the lock a little bit. Don't pull it out all the way, the springs might fall out. Some springs in there. Push it back on. It clicks and then make sure you push the lock in. I’ve got enough extra of our wires. It's not going to interfere with the power window, and I just want to make sure it doesn't go anywhere, so I'll throw a piece of tape over it. Right along the edge here, there's one, two, three, four little tabs. Use a plastic trim tool, and I want to unlock them.

So we're pushing up and pulling down and pushing up a little bit to unlock the tabs. Then there is a push clip like that there, then this will come out of these pins in the back. Now I'm going to move that trim piece for now. I'm going to tape our white wire to our harness wire. Make a little bit of a harness and it'll be a little neater under here. Run this up and over where the harness to the blower motor clips into. And I'll tape it to that holder there. Feed the excess back out over here.

Reinstall our cover. These two tabs will go on the lower mounting parts down here and then we'll push it up and click it in place. We're going to pull this trim back down. I can run our wires up and away from any gas pedal, brake pedal, steering column, emergency brake pedal, and of course this is the knee airbag, we don't want them in front of that. There's a nice little spot right here. I cable tied them to there. There's a hole in it. I can go through it. The metal is pretty sharp, but if our cable tied nice and tight they shouldn't move, and clip the zip tie. I've got our two spotlight wires. Make sure they're not tangled around anything here. Pull them out, and I'm going to run them up into this area. A lot of extra wire, so I'm actually going to end up cutting these.

The mirror kit does come with two independent switches. If you prefer you can find a 12 volt power source and wire up your spotlights on two independent switches. You can control both mirrors if you want to. What we prefer to do on this truck for convenience is wire them through this switch here so that you can turn them off or when the door is open and your bed light comes on, your spotlights also come on. Or you can turn them on manually. So that way if you're working out somewhere, it's dark, you're working out of the bed of your truck, maybe you're backed up to a fence on your farm or something, you'll have the spotlights to give you light.

The vehicle won't have to be in reverse and you can work out of the back of the truck. Optionally too, you could find the source for the reverse light and wire these up so that these are triggered when you put your truck in reverse. It's totally up to you, but in this particular case we're going to wire them up to the switch because we feel that's the best option for us. So I'm going to cut these wires because we have a lot of extra wire right about here, because in this large power block here, it's tough to tell, it looks almost black. It's a very dark brown, thin wire right here. That is our 12 volt power for our bed lights. So we're going to tap into that.

But in order to do that I need to cut these and I'm going to splice them together with a male spade connector, and that will fit into our wire splice. So I'll snip them. Just to show you what we're doing, we're using these type of wire splice. You crimp it together over your source wire. It cutes through the insulation. Makes a contact that goes to here, and then once it's crimped together, I'll slide this spade connector in here and I'll complete the circuit.

Take our wire strippers, strip back some of this wire. I'll twist these together. Make sure that switch is off for now. Battery is also disconnected in the truck. Put this over them. Then we'll crimp them. Use our splicer. We'll get in here. Put the wire in there. Push it together. Try to hold it together so I can get needle nose pliers in there and finish squeezing it together. Just do like that, it'll lock, and I will plug this into here just like that. I'll zip-tie these up right to here with these other harnesses.

Reinstall the negative terminal. Tighten it up. We'll turn on our bed light switch. So now we have a power fold option. We need to find a place to power this and mount the switch. What I'd like to do, I'd like to lift this up for a second. I could pop out one of these switch blanks. We could mount it over here. However, when you're getting in and out of vehicle you might hit it with your left knee and the mirrors might close on you. You might not want them to.

So I think on this truck, there's a blank right here. I'm going to pop this trim panel out and I pop the blank out by just pushing it in on the two tabs. Want to mount our switch in the correct orientation. Should pop right into the opening I think. Fit's pretty well. Your other option too, there are templates, you could mark it out, cut a hole in your trim to mount it, but I think that looks okay, and it's a good no cutting solution. This harness will go into the switch. It’s a green connector, and let me run back to the dash, it has an inline fuse already installed. You run this off of 12 volt power, and your mirrors would work, but what I'm going to do is use an ATO fuse in our fuse panel and power this off of the fuse for the mirrors.

So I'm not going to need this inline fuse so I can actually eliminate it, and I'll just cut it here, and I'll cut it here because I want to use that wire. Strip that back. Pop the connector on here. Do the same for this side. Separate our power and ground out. I'm going to run this harness up and around the parking brake.

Actually got to tape these together to make them into a little harness. Feed this up in behind the dash metal. Okay, and then this is going to go up into here into the switch. Make sure the switch is out. Push that in place. Pull the excess harness out of the way. We'll take these out for now. These are my power and ground.

Here's my excess harness wire that goes to each mirror, so let me try to pull the excess out so we keep them up and out of the way and get tangled on anything. Trim that one. All right, now we just need to run power and ground. I'm going to run these back down underneath the dash. Wiggle around. This seems okay like this. And we'll push this back up into place for now. I think I'm all set with it. Clip it all back in.

There's a clip behind here that snaps in there. Snaps in up there. We'll put the bolts in afterwards in case I need to take it back down. This panel is located right here for the interior. We pull down this cover right here and take it off, and right on the cover, it tells you what the fuses are and it's orientated in this direction. What I'm looking for, right here, MIR, mirror, 15 amp. So I'm going to find the 20 amp and then the 15.

Put my needle nose on the 15 amp fuse and I'll pull it out, and that's where my ATO fuse is going to go. We're going to use this ATO fuse. I'm going to put my 15 amp in where it would go for the original, and then the folding mirrors only need a 5 amp fuse. Just use the same ones that came out of your truck. Now this wire for power is super, super long, plenty of extra. Going to cut it right about here. Strip my wire. That fuse in place. We'll crimp it.

Now I'll use a little electrical tape just to cover up this connection. Reach up here with the ATO fuse. Plug it back into the original opening. Just make sure the wire is tucked away and what doesn't get caught on anything. Now we need to attach the ground wire. There's a factory ground right here. It's in the perfect spot, so I'm going to trim the wire and add it into it so I can put it right here. Ground bolt is 10 millimeter, I'll loosen it. Take it all the way out.

Slide this behind it. Tighten it up. Make sure it's nice and tight. Put this wire up and out of the way. Don't forget to install your bolt for the lower trim panel. It will get covered up by the lower trim. We'll slide this trim panel back in place. It's going to push over the white clips and then over the little stud here and we'll reinstall the clip. It's two white clips. There's one here and one here. It's hard to see, it's behind the ground stuff. So we're going to slide it in. Spoke too soon there. Thread this on there. Can just be on hand tight. This trim, just clip back in place. Make sure the cut out lines up with the cut out for the floor. Just snaps right back in.

Reinstall your speaker, and the rest of this will be identical for both sides. I'll tighten them up. Once I feel them get tight I'll stop. Don't need to over tighten them.

Reinstall your door panel. This will be the same for both sides. Hook up the white bowden cable goes on the top for the lock. Pull the ball through here. Clip it in place. The green one is for the door handle. Same way. Put it in. Clip it in place. Top of the door panel has a hook to it. It will hang on the sheet metal. Get it started up top first. Push it down. Clips will push into place. Make sure that your wire is accessible to your master window switch. Little plastic push clip. After you've pushed it in, you can push it back out and reuse it. It'll go right in and it'll lock in place.

Reinstall the screw here. Reinstall the one in the door handle. Let's put this trim back in place. It's got some clips. Open up the door handle. Line it up. It will snap into place. Put your little felt pad back in there. Triangle piece back on. Just push into place. Master window switch, plug it in. Push it in, and it locks. Then in the door panel, it snaps into place. Don't forget to install the bolts for your knee panel. Power fold. Power close. Turn the marker lights on. And the four ways.

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Tools needed for replacement:

    General Tools

  • Assistant

  • Materials, Fluids, and Supplies

  • Wire or String
  • Electrical Tape
  • Butt Connectors
  • Wire Ties

  • Pliers, Cutters & misc Wrenches

  • Wire Cutters

  • Ratchets & Related

  • Socket Extensions
  • Ratchet

  • Screwdrivers & Related

  • Flat Blade Screwdriver
  • Phillips Head Screwdriver

  • Sockets - Metric

  • 10mm Socket

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