Front Lock Carrier Service Position PLUS 2004-09 Audi A4 B7
Created on: 2016-05-25
Watch this video to learn how to put your 04-08 Audi A4 into the front lock carrier service position, when you need to service tough to reach parts.
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step 1 :Removing the Outer Bumper
- Remove the T25 screws from the wheel well
- Pull back the inner fender
- Remove the T25 screws from the bumper
- Remove the two 10mm nuts from the bumper
- Remove the three T30 bolts atop the bumper cover
- Remove the two T30 bolts in the bumper
- Pull the bumper cover out
- Disconnect the fog light wiring harness
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step 2 :Removing the Air Duct
- Remove the two Phillips head screws holding the air duct
- Remove the air duct
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step 3 :Removing the Rebar and Impact Braces
- Disconnect the horn wiring harnesses on both sides with a pick
- Remove the bolts that secure the rebar to the impact braces with a 10mm triple square
- Remove the rebar
- Remove the impact braces with a 13mm and 10mm socket
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step 4 :Moving the Front Lock Carrier Position
- Remove the three T30 bolts from the front lock bolt holes on both sides
- Remove the weatherstrip from the top of the front lock
- Slide the top portion of the carrier forward
- Reinstall a T30 bolt in to both rear of the front carrier finger tight
- Disconnect the radiator wiring harnesses
- Slide the lock side of the harness out of its retainers
- Remove the expansion tank cap
- Place a 3/8 fuel line onto the fitting
- Have a drain pan ready
- Open the drain
- Let the coolant drain
- Remove the top radiator hose
- Lift the hood latch cable out of its retainer
- Undo the T30 screw from the carrier position
- Hook bungee cords from the front of the fender to the front of the lock to create more room
- Disconnect the headlight wiring harnesses
- Lift the front lock off of the bushing
- Allow the front to hang
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step 5 :Repositioning the Front Lock Carrier Position
- Lift the front lock onto the rubber bushing
- Connect the headlight harnesses
- Remove the bungee cords
- Reinstall a T30 bolt in to both rear of the front carrier finger tight
- Reconnect the top radiator hose until it clips
- Fully extend the hood latch release wire
- Lock the tabs into the back of the hood latch
- Hook the latch into place
- Connect the smaller of the two lock harness connectors
- Connect the larger radiator wiring harness
- Remove the two T30 screws from the front lock carrier
- Lift the front lock carrier back into place
- Reinstall a T30 bolt in to both front of the front carrier finger tight
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step 6 :Reinstalling the Rebar and Impact Braces
- Insert the impact braces into place
- Tighten the 13mm and 10mm bolts to the impact braces
- Passenger impact braces has a tow hook point in near the threads
- Torque the 13mm bolts to 37 foot-pounds
- Mount the front rebar
- Tighten the 10mm Triple Square, passenger side first
- Torque the bolts to 19 foot-pounds
- Connect the horn wiring harnesses on either side
- Tighten the three T30 bolts from the front lock bolt holes on both sides
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step 7 :Reinstalling the Bumper Cover
- Reconnect the fog light wiring harness
- Insert the bumper cover up into place
- Insert the three T30 bolts atop the bumper cover
- Insert the two T30 bolts in the bumper
- Tighten the T25 screws into the bumper
- Tighten the two 10mm nuts into the bumper
- Tighten the T25 screws into the wheel well
- Tighten the flat blade fasteners into the splash shield
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step 8 :Reinstalling the Air Duct
- Insert the air duct into place
- Tighten the two Phillips screws to the air duct
- Press the weatherstrip into place
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step 9 :Refilling the Coolant
- Insert a funnel into the reservoir
- Fill the reservoir with G-12 Volkswagon or Audi approved coolant
- Run the vehicle with the cap off
- Let the air bubbles out of the tank
- Fill the tank as it empties until there are no more bubbles
- Once the heat/air has stabilized, remove the funnel and reinstall the cap
- Turn the vehicle off
Tools needed
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13mm Socket
Funnel
Socket Extensions
Torque Wrench
Anti-Freeze
Pick
Flat Blade Screwdriver
Phillips Head Screwdriver
T30 Driver
10mm Triple Square Driver
Bungee Cord
10mm Socket
Ratchet
T25 Torx Driver
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Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we're going to show you just how to remove and reinstall the intercooler. We showed you with the driver side intercooler. The passenger side is pretty much the same procedure just a different side. The vehicle is a 2007 Audi A4 with a 2.0T. It's pretty much going to be the same for this generation of A4.
You'll need jack and jack stands, flat and Phillips screwdrivers, T25 and T30 Torx drivers, 10mm socket, ratchet, extensions and a flex joint, as well as a flashlight.
Using a jack and jack stands or a lift, we'll make the repair easier. We do it to make filming easier. Let's get the camera in there much better. You want to look in the little green circle is a little triangle. That's just a reference point. Really, where you want to put the jack and jack stand is under where the red circle is under the pinch weld. That's the same for both sides.
Starting on the front up underneath, there's three flat-blade fasteners. You just turn these counterclockwise about a half to a turn and they come out. Sometimes sand and gook can get in there and make them hard. There are three. One in the middle and two to the side. I am missing one on this vehicle.
Inside each wheel well, there's a series of fasteners. They're T25 screws, but I found a couple Phillips screws. There was even one flat blade screw in here. You want to remove these T25 screws. On the other side, you want to turn your wheels the other way because sometimes getting these lower ones is a little easier with the wheels turned the other way. That there is a push pin that you just need to pull on to get it out. If need be, you may want to work a flat blade screwdriver in behind to pull that plug out. You can see I just grip the inner fender and pull on it firmly and remove that push-in plug. Then I'll fast-forward here.
I'm using a T25 Torx driver on a socket and ratchet as well as a Phillips screwdriver to remove all the fasteners in the wheel well. Obviously, I'm doing this on one side. You want to repeat this for the other side as well. Pull your inner fender back and there are two more T-25 screws here and here. We'll remove those.
Push the plastic wheel lining in towards the center of the car and pull it back. There are two studs kind of positioned right there that go into the fender. They're held by two 10mm nuts, as I'm going to show you right here. Here you can see circled in red are those two 10mm nuts that you need to remove. Again, you need to do this on both sides. To get those nuts, I use a flex joint on the end. That's a deep-socket 10mm. I use a couple of extensions to make it easier to get in there.
As you saw, I just put a light up in there just to give me some light. Obviously, this is where a flashlight would come in handy. You can see better what you're doing. I'll just fast-forward as I remove those two 10mm nuts. On the driver's side, the washer bottle creates a little bit of a tight space, but using the same ratchet and extensions and flex joint you can get in there. I can easily get my hand in there to get the nuts off once they're loose. On top, there are three T30 bolts to remove: one in the center, one on the side, one on the other side.
Down in these holes are actually two T30 bolts that you just need to loosen up. There's a couple little cushions that pinch onto the bumper cover. Having the flashlight helps look down into those holes and see the T30 Torx bolts. You may find that these are rusty, so you have to really make sure that you get your Torx driver down inside them. You just need to get them loose and loosen them up, maybe one or two turns. I'll just fast-forward here as I remove those three T30 Torx bolts.
Now you need to release each side of the cover and pull the cover off. Be weary if you have fog lights. There's another connection that you have to remove. Final step, disconnect this connector. Push the tab on the top with your thumb and then pull the connector. Your cover is off. Four T30 bolts: three hold the headlight. Loosen this one and remove this one. Down in here, there's another one you have to loosen. Then remove this side fender bolt.
Pull the headlight out and disconnect the lead. Press on the tab, pull it down. You want to disconnect this harness here. Just a tab. Sometimes you have to push against the intercooler. Pull the tab and pull it off. Loosen up this hose clamp and then pull the hose off. Pull this hose down out of the clip. Loosen the hose clamp and remove this intercooler hose. You may get some oil that drips out when you do it. You shouldn't, but you may.
There's a little clip down here. Pry down. Pull this off and bring it down and out. Just grab your intercooler firmly and pull it forward. Then it's also held on top, so you pull it up. You're going to work your intercooler in from the bottom. Back up in. Get your two clips on top and push it back. Just make sure those cushions stay down. Push it in up there. Pull the bottom out and over. Make sure the bottom's in. Make sure the top's in.
Reconnect this hose. Put this hose back up in the clip. Then tighten this clamp. Reconnect this lead and put your intercooler hose back on and tighten.
Reinstall the duct. These two tabs go up under here, then it snaps in place. You've got to get it in place first. Push it down, then up and on. Then reinstall the light. Make sure you plug in the lead. There should make a nice clicking sound. Put the light back in place. Put the top bolt in. Tighten it up, then tighten up this one, and right down into this one. Then reinstall the side bolt for the fender.
Put the bumper cover back on. Remember to re-plug the harness if you have fog lights. Lift the cover up into place. You want to make sure that those two bolts that you loosened, make sure that the forks that are in the bumper cover go around those retainers and go in correctly. I'll show you here in a second. It kind of can be a little difficult to line up the cover between the headlight and the mounting points inside.
You'll see I kind of give it a little force. It doesn't quite go. What you need to do is push this or pull the headlight to the side so you can line up down inside. It's a little difficult to see, but you'll see I mess with it a little bit. It's one of those things that once you get it, it goes in very easily, but it's just a little difficult to get. What I end up doing is pulling the headlight to the side so that the bumper cover can go in correctly and easily. You can see once you get it right, it goes right in, nice and easy. Do it for one side.
Since I figured it out, it's really easy on the other side. Goes right in. Latch the sides into place. Then I'll speed up here as I put those three bolts in at the top as well as tighten up the two T30 retainers that are down inside the holes. I'll continue to fast-forward. Put in the two nuts that hold the cover to the fronts of the fenders. Tighten those up. Then we'll put in all the T25 and Phillips screws that hold the inner fenders in. The only part I don't show is you obviously want to put the three flat-blade screwdriver retainers back in at the bottom.
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