60K Service Kia Sorento
Created on: 2019-10-14
Check out this video to see what goes into the 60K mile service for your 11-14 Kia Sorento! 1A Auto shows you how to DIY it and save money!
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step 1 :Changing the Engine Air Filter
- Open the engine air filter compartment
- Twist the lock tabs to release the air filter
- Remove the air filter
- Insert the new air filter noting the directional indicator
- Secure the air filter with the locking tabs
- Shut the air filter compartment
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step 2 :Draining the Engine Oil
- Remove the oil fill cap and place it near the hood latch
- Remove the radiator fill cap and set it aside (make sure the engine is cool)
- Raise and support the vehicle
- Remove lower paneling if necessary
- Remove the oil drain plug and allow the oil to drain into a pan
- Reinstall the oil drain plug
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step 3 :Changing the Engine Oil Filter
- Remove the oil filter and allow oil to drain into the pan
- Clean the oil filter mounting area
- Apply clean oil to the new oil filter gasket
- Thread on the oil filter by hand
- Tighten the filter an extra 1/4 turn after bottoming out
- Optionally, torque the filter to 11 ft-lbs
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step 4 :Draining the Coolant
- Open the radiator drain plug
- Allow the coolant to drain into a separate pan
- Close the drain plug
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step 5 :Under Vehicle Inspections
- Visually inspect the drive belts for cracks, dry rot, and glazing
- Replace belts as necessary
- Inspect the front CV boots, and rear CV boots if applicable
- Inspect exhaust hangers
- Inspect exhaust system for leaks and rust/rot
- Inspect the driveshaft coupler, support bearing, and U joints if applicable
- Inspect fuel lines and evap lines
- Inspect the parking brake cable
- Inspect front and rear suspension
- Inspect the tie rods by shaking the wheel side to side
- Inspect the wheel bearing and ball joints by shaking the wheel up and down
- Inspect the sway bar links
- Reinstall under body panels as necessary
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step 6 :Rotating the Tires
- Refer to the vehicle documentation for rotation order
- Remove each wheel and move it to the new location
- Visually inspect brake pads, rotors and lines
- Visually inspect steering rod boots
- Mount the wheels
- Lower the vehicle with minimal weight on the wheels
- Torque the lug nuts to 80 ft-lb
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step 7 :Filling the Oil
- Use a funnel to fill the oil
- Use the oil type specified in the vehicle manual or fill cap
- Use the oil amount specified in the vehicle manual
- Reinstall the oil fill cap
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step 8 :Filling the Coolant
- Use the coolant type specified in the vehicle manual
- Fill the coolant using a coolant funnel, leaving extra in the funnel
- Run the engine, with the heat on, until the coolant reaches operating temperature
- Feel the upper radiator hose to ensure the thermostat activated
- Allow the system to cool with the funnel still attached and full
- Top off the coolant reservoir as necessary
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step 9 :Additional Inspections
- Inspect the brake fluid level
- Inspect the brake fluid condition
- Inspect the battery terminals, and clean them as necessary
- Test the battery if able
- Remove the engine cover
- Inspect the rubber vacuum and fuel lines for cracks or leaks
- Check the gas cap seal for cracks or wear
- Add fuel additive if desired
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step 10 :Replacing the Cabin Air Filter
- Open the glove box
- Twist to remove the glove box catches
- Disconnect the glove box from the damper
- Remove the cabin air filter cover
- Remove the cabin air filter
- Install the new cabin air filter following the directional indicator
- Install the cabin air filter cover
- Install the damper onto the glove box
- Install the glove box catches
- Close the glove box
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step 11 :Resetting the Service Reminder
- Turn the key to the on position
- Press the menu button on the steering wheel until the display selects Service In
- Press the OK button, and hold it to reset
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step 12 :Testing the Air Conditioning
- Turn on the vechicle
- Turn on the air conditioning
- Turn the temperature down
- Turn on recirculate
- Feel the air temperature, or check with a temperature probe
Tools needed
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Flat Blade Screwdriver
Oil Filter Wrench
Torque Wrench
Jack Stands
Complete Metric Wrench Set
Drain Pan
Floor Jack
1/2 Inch Breaker Bar
Complete Metric Socket Set
Coolant Funnel Set
Do you have a Kia Sorento that needs a 60,000 mile service? Well, I'm going to show you how to save some money and do it yourself. We're going to start by replacing the air filter. This is actually very simple on this car. Flip this cover down and there's two locks right here. Unlock that, filter slides right out and that filter is very dirty. This filter has definitely been in here the whole life of the vehicle, the whole 60,000 miles. Slide the air filter in, this air filter is a little different. Just push these tabs down, close the door.
At this point we're going to raise the vehicle up. I'm going to drain the oil and drain the coolant. I'll take the oil fill cap off, take that off. I generally put it right here so that I don't close the hood by accident without putting oil in it. Stick it right there and then take the coolant cap off as well. Stick that right there. Now I'm going to remove this panel. Make sure you have a drain bucket and drain the engine oil. Put the drain plug back in. It's always good to use a new seal. And remove the oil filter, make sure you have a drain bucket underneath to obtain the oil.
Take a clean rag, just wipe this surface area. Take a little bit of new engine oil and just wipe it on the gasket surface of the oil filter that's going to make it distill better and when you go to take it off next time it'll make it easier to come off. Get the oil filter up so the gasket's touching, so it's snug. And then we'll give it another quarter turn. Or if you can get a torque wrench on there, you can do it to 11 foot pounds. On the passenger side of the radiator there's a little drain, so you can loosen up this plug right here.
Make sure you have a drain bucket underneath to catch the old coolant. This might take a little while. Drain it up. All right, the coolant has drained out of the radiator. Now I'm going to tape and close up that drain plug. While we still have the vehicle raised up in the air, let's check out some of the components underneath. Take a look at the drive belt, make sure there's no cracking. If you look right where it goes on this part of the pulley, this is where the tensioner pulley is.
We want to make sure there's no cracking right there. If you see any cracking, you're going to be due for a drive belt. The outer edge of this belt looks a little bit dry, if you hear any squeaking, it's probably a good time to replace it. There's also a belt right here that goes to the water pump. You can take a look at that. You twist it, take a look and see if there's any cracking. This one looks pretty good. Check the CV boots on the front drive axles. If you look at those, you want to turn the wheel while you look at those, see if there's any leaks.
Sometimes you'll have a pinhole and you'll actually see grease clinging onto these stripe or on the lower control arm. Those look pretty good. Check both sides of those. And if you have an all wheel drive unit, make sure you check the rear CV joints as well. Now we're going to take a look at the exhaust system. You want to check all the hangers, make sure all the hangers are there, make sure they're not dry rotted. Give it a shake, make sure they're all secure, and then go throughout the whole exhaust and check for leaks. Make sure that all the flanges and the gaskets, there's no leaks. Check and make sure there's no rock holes along the rest of the exhaust.
If you have an all wheel drive vehicle, you want to check the propeller shaft or the drive shaft. Check this rubber coupler at the back. Make sure there's no cracking. Make sure it feels tight, which this one does. Check this center support bearing right here. Now normally, you'll hear this going down the road. You'll hear a loud noise in the middle, if that's bad. It's hard to actually physically check out rots in the air, but there will be movement like this, which just makes sure there's no excessive dry rot around that rubber piece right there.
And then we want to check the front of your joints to see if those are good. You can grab the yoke right here and then just try to wiggle the shaft back and forth. Seems good, there's no play there. Also, if you see a lot of rust buildup on any of the caps then your joint's probably bad. So I'm going to pull this panel down right here. I don't have to pull the whole panel down, just the screws on this side and right there. This way I can access the fuel lines. We'll just take a look at the fuel lines, make sure they look okay.
I don't see anything rubbing or anything. Nothing's loose, nothing's rubbed out. So you can check that out and you can check the vapor lines while you're here. So that's good. So I can put the screws back in. I'm going to also check the parking brake cables, just see if anything is corroded or rusted or cracking. Is it good or rubbing? For the front and the rear suspension, take a quick look at all the mounting bolts. Make sure they're all there. We want to inspect the front steering and suspension. What we're going to do is shake the wheel side to side.
When we're shaking the wheel side to side, if we feel any play, we're going to check the outer tie rod and also the inner tie rod. You will see the inner tie rod moving if there's any play. And if not, if you see the outer tie rod, then those parts will be bad. Then we're going to shake the wheel up and down. If you feel any play, it could possibly be in the ball joint or it could be in the wheel bearing. If you see the ball joint moving because this is a non load carrying ball joint, you don't have to support the lower control arm or it could be in the hub bearing.
Now I'm going to check the sway bar links and bushings with the sway bar. Just grab the front of it and just try to rock it up and down. And this one is tight, but if you see any movement in the ball socket right here or the upper one, that needs to be replaced. I'm going to reinstall this shield. Now I'm going to take the wheels off because I want to rotate the tires. You can check your owner's manual for the proper location for each tire. When you're rotating the tires, it is going to change if you have directional tires. If you have directional tires, you can only go front to back.
For this vehicle, the manual says for the front tires to go to the back, and for the back tires to cross to the front. So I've the tires on the ground in the position that they need to be after the rotation. Before I put them up, I want to check some things out. You want to check the brake pad material, see how much is left. These look pretty thick. That's the pad material right there and then we also check in between here and here. Make sure that there's plenty of life left on the pads which there are on here.
Visually look at the rotor. Make sure there's no pitting or hot spots. Also good. You want to check the brake hoses, make sure there's no cracking. I'm going to remove the rubber hoses around a little bit and then the brake lines themselves, look at those. And then after checking the brake hoses, just look at the brake lines, just to make sure everything looks okay. Now while we're still in the front of the vehicle, check the power steering boots, make sure that they are all intact. Make sure they're not falling off or ripped or another steering rack is leaking.
Everything looks good on the front. Now we're going to check the brakes and the brake hoses and lines and rotors on the rear. Now we can put the wheels back on. And now I'm going to torque the wheels to 80 foot pounds in a star pattern to makes sure the wheel gets tightened down evenly. Now I use a funnel for the oil fill, just come up and then I'm just going to add the appropriate oil. You can check your owner's manual so you can know what to use. And I remove the funnel, put the oil fill cap back on.
Now because I don't have coolant in the engine before I started to check the engine oil level, I'm going to add the coolant. Now I'm going to use this coolant funnel that attaches to the top of the radiator and I'm going to add the appropriate coolant. You can check the owner's manual for the appropriate type of coolant. Now with the coolant filled up, I'm going to leave this funnel on. I'm going to start the car for about 10 seconds and then shut it off and then I'm going to check the engine oil. Now I can check the oil level, dipstick is located right there.
Just take a rag, wipe off the dipstick. So insert the dipstick, slip out again and just check the level. It's right at the top, which is good. Now the cooling system is full. What I can do now is start the engine, run the engine for about 10 minutes. I want to turn the heat on and fan on about medium speed. With fan on medium speed, you should start to feel heat after about five minutes. So it's been about five minutes and I feel heat coming out, which is good. That means all the coolant's up high on the engine and stuff and the temp gauge is starting to go up. But it's not quite at normal level yet and my level outside is good.
All right. At this point I'm checking the upper radiator hose and just making sure it's hot. Be very careful when you grab this. When this is hot, that means the thermostat has opened up. It's going to get extremely hot to the point where you almost can't hold on to it and it's almost at that point. I'm going to let it run for about two more minutes and then I'm going to shut the vehicle off. Now I'm going to let the engine cool down and it's going to suck some of this coolant back into the system.
Monitor the level and adjust accordingly and then we can remove the funnel, put the cap back on. Now when you do a drain and fill coolant service like we did here, it only gets partial of the coolant out of the whole system. So what would be recommended if you want to do a thorough job, let the vehicle sit for a little while and then drain the coolant out of the radiator again and do the same procedure. Now that this has cooled down, I'm just going to put this stopper in the funnel. I'm going to take the funnel off, make sure the coolant level is up to the top of the radiator, and then put the cap back on.
You want to check the coolant reservoir. What you can do is use a fluid transfer pump and suck all the coolant out of there and then put the new coolant in there, and there's a full line and a low line. Next you want to check the brake fluid. Just take a rag, wipe off the cap, took the cap off. Take a look, see where the level is at. And the level's right where it used to be. If the fluid looks extremely dirty, it may be a good time to change it. Put the cap back on. I'm going to take a look at the battery, make sure the battery terminals look okay and make sure they're not corroded.
Make sure they're tight, check the positive side as well. Looks good. Now we're going to use a battery tester. Attach the battery tester appropriately and the battery tested good. It passed. Now we're going to take this cover off here. Just pull it up. We want to take a look at the vacuum lines, any of the hoses, the rubber hoses, make sure they're not cracked, make sure they're all in the right positions. You can look at the fuel lines right there and make sure there's no leaks and over here there's a vacuum line right there. Give it a pinch, make sure it doesn't break. It looks good. Everything looks good.
I'm going to install the cover, that's it there. Another thing you want to do is check the gas cap. Pull the gas cap off, check the rubber ring around the cap, make sure it's not cracking or anything. It looks pretty good. And normally at the dealership or if you are having this repaired at a shop, they would add a fuel additive to this so you can always add a fuel additive. Put the cap back on, tighten it to click, close the door. And now I'm going to replace the cabin filter.
Open the glove box, turn these little dials. Just take some needle nose pliers. Push on this little pin thing right here, slide that off. Take this cover off right here, slide the old cabin filter out, find the direction of the new one, slide the new one in. Slide this back on this pin right here. Push the door in a little bit and put these stoppers back in. Now with the key on, with the engine off, I want to reset the oil life. So I'm going to hit this scroll button right here and look at the display up top. We want to go to the wrench.
So now we're on the wrench. Now to reset that, we're going to hit the okay button, hold the okay button and it will reset. Now it's 5000 miles, 152 days. Now we want to check the operation of the AC. Start the car, turn the AC on, turn the fan on high, turn the temperature all the way down, recirculate. Now you can just feel by the vent. It would help if you had a temperature probe just to make sure it's colder than the outside air. So I know that's a lie, but now you know what's involved in performing a 60000 mile service for this vehicle. So save yourself some money and do it yourself.
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