Chevrolet Pontiac Saturn Rear Wheel Bearing & Hub Assembly TRQ BHA54212

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Hi, I'm Don from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.

In this video, we're going to show you how to replace a wheel rear bearing or hub assembly on this 2007 Pontiac G6, pretty much the same for any 2005 to 2010 G6 as well as the same year Saturn Aura. Our vehicle does not have ABS brakes, so the only difference is there's just a connector to disconnect on the back of the hub. You'll need a new hub assembly from the 1AAuto.com; jack and jack stands; 13, 14, 15, and 19mm sockets; ratchet with an extension and flexible joint; large screwdriver; hammer; wire brush; and a torque wrench.

Start by using a 19mm socket and depending on what wheels you have, -- this has wheel covers so . , you unscrew the caps, and then, the wheel cover comes off. If you don't have the benefit of air tools, you'll want to loosen the lug nuts with the vehicle on the ground and then raise and secure the vehicle, and then, remove the lug nuts, wheel, and tire. Holding the caliper are two 14mm bolts. We'll speed up here. We use a 14mm wrench on the bolts, and then, we actually have to hold the slides with either a 19mm or a 13/16" wrench. Now, use a large screwdriver or small pry bar and just pry between the caliper and the disc, and that'll help loosen the caliper up a little bit. Now, you can lift the caliper off. Now, the pads will pull out. For the inside pad or maybe even the outside pad, you might want to use a screwdriver for a little extra leverage. Put it in between the pad and the rotor and just pry it right out.

Two 13mm bolts hold the bracket. We'll speed up here as we use a 13mm socket with ratchet to remove those two bolts and remove that caliper bracket. Then, we can remove the disc as well.

The hub is held on by four 15mm nuts on the backside. Use a 15mm socket with flexible u-joint and extension and ratchet and remove those four bolts. We are going to fast forward as we do that. As you can see, you have to just kind of put the wrench in from different angles, but they come out fairly . not easily . but once you break them loose, they come off pretty easy. Use a hammer, and you can hit it from the back. Be careful not to damage your backing plate. A couple taps the other way, and it comes out. Our vehicle does not have ABS, so there's not sensor attached, but once it starts to come out, you can reach back and disconnect your sensor if your vehicle does have ABS. Now use a wire brush and just clean out the surface where the hub goes in as well as the surface where the flange mounts on.

As you can see here, the old hub and the new hub from 1A Auto are exactly the same. Put the backing plate back up in place. Put your hub in. Again, if you have ABS, you would plug the sensor back in at this point. Get the hub in place and start the nuts on. I'll fast forward as we tighten those up. You want to torque them to 65 foot pounds.

Reinstall the rotor. Reinstall the bracket and start the bolts in. Then, we'll tighten up the bolts and torque them between 50 and 55 foot pounds.

Now, apply a little brake or white grease just right into the slides where you're going to install the brake pads into. The pads have a little notch in them, so you want to make sure that you position your piston at the correct clock position so it'll slide down over the pads. We'll just turn the piston a little bit. Now, we're going to take our pads and put them into the slides. Make sure they go in correctly. They should be nice and free and movable. Make sure also, again, that you have the piston lined up so that it will go right down onto the pad. So, we put the pads in place, and now, we'll speed up here as we put the caliper back on. If you have any issue at all with that caliper going down onto the bracket, then just check your brake caliper piston and make sure it's lined up correctly. We'll put those bolts back on and use our 14mm as well as our 19mm wrench. You want to just tighten these up nice and snug. They should be about between 18 and 19 foot pounds.

Keep the speed up here as we put our wheel and tire back on, and just start the lug nuts on there by hand first, then, tighten them preliminarily. With the car back down on the ground now, we'll tighten the lug nuts to 100 foot pounds using a star pattern. Last but not least, put our wheel cover on there, and put the caps on carefully only using hand power to tighten those caps up.

Last but certainly not least, make sure you pump up the brakes and get a nice firm pedal before road testing the vehicle.

We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.

Okay, friends. The first thing you need to talk about anytime you're working on your vehicle is safety. You want hand and eye protection. With that said, safely raise and support your vehicle so the wheels are off the ground. Once you've done that, we're going to remove all five of our 19-millimeter lug nuts. Remove your wheel. Now that we have the wheel off, we have a clear view of our caliper and our rotor. What we need to do first is get the caliper out of the way and then we're going to remove the rotor. Looking at the backside of the caliper, you're going to see two mounting bolts, one located right here, and one located up top. Remove them both and get the caliper out of the way. Remove your caliper. Carefully set it aside. Let's go ahead and get the rotor off of here. And now, we have a clear view of our bearing. Coming from the backside of the bearing, you want to make sure that you remove your ABS wire and be very careful with it because it's extremely delicate. Grab this tab, pull it down, check your wiring. Make sure you don't see any funny colors.

Next, we're going to take some penetrant spray and spray down all of our mounting studs. I always like to go around the center as well. Now, we're gonna use a 15-millimeter socket and remove all four of our mounting nuts. Now, we're going to take a hammer and we're going to try to bonk from the backside of this and just try to help it out. Once it starts breaking free in one direction, we'll come from the other side a little bit and just keep going until it comes out. Looks like it started to move. Grab your bearing, remove your backing plate. There it is, friends. Now that's out of the way, let's clean up the mounting surface. Spray down the area with a little bit of copper never-seize. Before you install your backing plate, make sure you double-check both sides to make sure there's no raised areas that are going to be between mating surfaces. Once you're sure, go ahead and take your bearing, put it through the backing plate, put it through your knuckle, and then go around back and put on those mounting nuts. Little bit of threadlocker. Now, we're going to start on all the nuts. We'll bottom them out and then we'll torque them to 47 foot-pounds. Criss-cross.

Let's get our ABS wire reconnected. Click it in, give it a nice tug. It must be secure. Use some copper never-seize. Make sure you clean the backside of your rotor, where it's going to be mating up against this hub right here. Once you've done that, go ahead and put it on. I always like to start on a lug nut to hold the rotor from moving around. Let's grab the caliper, remount it on here. It's always a great idea to use a little bit of threadlocker on your bolts. Torque these bolts to 96 foot-pounds. Wheel up on here. We'll start on the lug nuts and then we'll torque them down to 100 foot-pounds. Let's torque these to 100 foot-pounds in a criss-cross manner. Torqued. Go ahead and pump up the brake pedal. Let's go ahead and check and top off our brake fluid.