2010 Toyota Rav4 L4 2.5L Front Driver & Passenger Side 2 Piece Wheel Bearing & Hub Assembly Set TRQ BHA53597

What's up guys? I'm Andy from 1A Auto. In this video I'm going to show you how to replace the front wheel bearing and hub assembly, on this 2010 Toyota Rav4. If you need this part or other parts for your vehicle, click the link in the description and head over to 1aauto.com.

All right, I raised and supported the vehicle. I'm going to remove the wheel. I'm using a 21 millimeter socket and an air gun. If you don't have an air gun, you can use a breaker bar. Just crack the lug nuts free while the vehicle is still on the ground. All right, now I want to take the tire off. This one's stuck on there pretty good, so I'm going to put one lug nut on and just hit it on the backside of the tire with the hammer. Break it free. Reason you leave the lug nut so the tire doesn't go flying.

We'll take the lug nut off, and pull the tire off. Now I want to take the caliper off. I'm going to use a 14 millimeter socket and a ratchet. Loosen up these bolts right here, this one and this one. It goes up and if the studs or the slides start spinning, you can use a wrench to hold those or even some pliers. Now grab the caliper. I'm just going to rock it back and forth a little bit. Then I'm going to use this caliper hanger. We actually sell these at 1aauto.com, and I'll hook it onto the coil spring and slide it through the caliper. This is going to prevent too much pressure on the hose. If you let it hang from the hose, you could damage the hose.

Now we'll take the brake pads off. Just slide these off. Then I'll take a 17 millimeter socket and ratchet and take these two caliper bracket bolts out. You might need to use a breaker bar if they're on there too tight. Once those are loose, then I'm going to switch to an electric ratchet. It goes up just like that. Slide the bracket off. So now I want to take the rotor off, and sometimes these get stuck on there so you can try to grab and pull it and if not you can use a bolt and thread into, there's two spots on this rotor, right here and right there. Just thread a bolt in there. You just want to put a little bit of pressure on that.

It's actually moving, but what am I going to do is just tap it with a hammer. Now I want to tap in these locations right here, here, here. Just be careful. Don't hit the studs. Just tighten this up a little bit more and you can see the rotor is actually moving, which is good. Just hit ... give it a tap right here. Here we go, grab it and slide it off. All right, everything here is pretty rusty. What I'm going to do is soak this down in some rust penetrant right where the nut is on the front and then also where it bolts up for the knuckles.

All right, while that's soaking, I'm just going to take a 10 millimeter socket and an extension. I want to take this ABS sensor out, wheel speed sensor out. Take that 10 millimeter bolt out. There you go. And try to grab the sensor. A lot of times these get stuck in there, so you may actually have to spray some rust penetrant on that, which I'm going to do. Let that soak for a little bit. Now carefully, I'm just going to grab some pliers, see if I can grab the sensor a little bit and just get it to twist a little. There's not much room in here because of the backing shield.

There we go, got it to twist and we just want to twist it back and forth and there it is. So I was able to get the sensor out without breaking it because we didn't want to break it while we were pulling the hub out. Now I want to loosen up this nut and what I'm going to do is take a punch and a hammer, get underneath here because this is pinged over a little bit, so then it's just preventing the nut from loosening up on its own. I'll just try to bend that back. All right, so when ticking off this nut, I'm going to use a 30 millimeter socket, 12 point socket. We actually sell this socket at 1aauto.com, and an air gun. If you don't have an air gun and you're just doing it by hand, what you can do is take a pry bar, stick it between the lugs right there and then loosen this up with a breaker bar and that'll prevent the hub from spinning. But I'll just use an air gun and a socket.

Take that off. There we go. Now I want to just get this axle loose from the hub, so I'm just going to take a center punch and a big mallet and just give it a couple hits. Yep. I was able to see it move a little bit. I can spray some more penetrant in there and let that soak, but you don't really want to hit it with a hammer right here or you could mushroom the axle and what that's going to do is just prevent you from being able to put the nut back on. Then I'm going to use a 17 millimeter socket and a ratchet and I'm going to loosen up these bolts on the back side.

That's good. Got them at least to break free. Same on the other side. You can use a breaker bar if they're on really tight or if they're really rusted. There you go. Now they're all loose. Now I'm just going to take them out one at a time. Take that out.

All right, that's all of those. What I could do is use a slide hammer and try to slide hammer it out, but I have a lot of area right here to just hit a regular hammer or a sledgehammer, small sledge, so that's what I'm going to do. Just give it a couple of taps.

And then you can see right here where the shield is, there is a gap, so it is moving, which is good. I could spray some rust penetrant in there and let it soak a little more more, but I think it's going to come off pretty easily. Give it a couple of taps from this side as well. Just get a little tap on the axle, not enough to mushroom it over, but a little bit of taps.

There we go. There's the hub. Here's the old part. Here's the new hub bearing from 1aauto.com. It's got the same machine surfaces for the mounting bolts. The back side has the same ABS ring, front part of the hub has the same studs. Get yours at 1aaauto.com, and you'll be ready to rock and roll.

So you just want to make sure you clean up any of this surface. You just take a little bit of sand paper, sand it down, or even a file, if it's really bad. This doesn't look too bad. You don't want to forget to reinstall the backing plate, the dust shield. Put this over and this goes on like this. So the open side is where the caliper goes. Take the new hub assembly, slide it in position. You can put a little a anti-seize on there if you wanted to. Might make it easier to take it off if you have to remove it again in the future. Take bolts and with these bolts you could put some thread locker on there as well. Get those started. Sometimes it helps to not push the bearing in too far, just to leave it a little bit loose, get the bolts started and then you can push it in more.

That's the last one. Now I'm going to take a 17 millimeter socket. I happen to have a swivel socket. You don't necessarily need a swivel socket and a ratchet and I'm going to tighten these up, and I like to cross when I'm tightening these up so it tightens them down evenly.

Go across the other side and be careful of, if you're using a power tool, be careful of the CV boot. You don't want to rip those boots. If you're going and using a gun or something, then you're going to want to put something in between there like a piece of plastic or something.

Now I'm going to use a 17 millimeter socket and a torque wrench. I'm going to torque these bolts to 71 foot pounds. And these, I don't have to do these in a cross pattern because it's already snugged down. So if you want to, you can, but it's not necessary.

Now we'll take the axle nut or spindle nut, and put that back on. I take the 30 millimeter socket and I'll use a ratchet. Tighten this down. Once it's snug, then I'm going to torque it. All right, so when I tighten this down, the hub's going to spin. So what I want to do is just take a pry bar, just position it like this. We lowered the vehicle so that I can have this the handle side against the ground. Then I'm going to take a 30 millimeter socket and a torque wrench. I'm going to torque this spindle nut to 159 foot pounds.

Here we go. That's good. Now after that torques, we want to just take a chisel and we want to just bend this part of the nut down. That's just going to prevent the nut from loosening up on us. Take a punch, give it a tap. You don't have to do a wicked lot, but just enough so that it won't move. So it looks pretty good. All right, now we're going to take and reinstall the ABS sensor. Just slide that back in position. Take the 10 millimeter nut bolt, get that started and just take a 10 millimeter socket extension and a ratchet and snug it up.

That looks good. So we happened to replace the hub bearing on this vehicle, but if you hadn't, you're going to want to clean up the rust. Just take a wire brush and clean up any rust or any corrosion in these areas, just like that. But ours is brand new.

And now you can install the rotor. Because this rotor is so loose, what I'm going to do is just put a lug nut on, just so it supports the rotor while I install the brakes. That's good. That'll keep that good and tight. Now we'll take the caliper bracket, slide it over the rotor, take the caliper bolts, get those started. Now we'll just tighten these up by hand and then we're going to torque them. Now I'm going to torque these caliper bracket bolts with a 17 millimeter socket and a torque wrench to 79 foot pounds.

That's good. Now I'm going to take the brake pads, we'll just line the ears up. Put those in place, just like that. All right, now I'm going to take the caliper off the hanger. Slide this over here and now I want to compress this caliper. I'm going to use this caliper compressing tool. We actually sell this at 1aauto.com. This is a ratchet style tool. So slide this in here and it ratchets to tighten and also to loosen. As I do this, it's pushing the piston back into the caliper, which is pushing fluid through the hose, back through the brake line, back up to the master cylinder into the reservoir, brake reservoir. And if you do it nice and slow, you won't have any problems. Just go slow and then it's always a good idea to check the fluid level after you've done a brake job, just to make sure you don't have too much or too little. Just compress that piston all the way down.

All right, we'll ratchet that down. Loosen this up, just spin that, tighten that up. That's good. All right, slide the caliper over the pads like that. Take these caliper bolts, get these started here and here. Now we're going to tighten these caliper bolts down. I'm going to use a 17 millimeter wrench to hold the guide pin from spinning, and then torque these with a 14 millimeter socket and a torque wrench to 25 foot pounds, just like that, and then do the same on the top. That's good.

Now, install the tire. Take the lug nuts, install the lug nuts. Now I lower the vehicle down to the ground so that the tire's just touching the ground and I'm going to torque these with a 21 millimeter socket and a torque wrench to 76 foot pounds and I'm going to do this in a star pattern. The reason you do it in a star pattern is so that the wheel gets tightened down evenly. And then I always like to go around again just to double check. Then you're good to go.

Now we want to make sure we pump up the brake pedal because there is going to be a little bit of an air gap between the brake pads and the rotor, and this is going to eliminate that air gap. Just pump it up. It's going to squish the piston into the brake pads and it's good. Make sure it feels good. And last under under the hood, you want to make sure you check your brake fluid level and make sure it's not too high. If it's above the max, you want to empty some out, use some kind of fluid transfer pump, and then if it's too low, you want to add the appropriate brake fluid.

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