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Part Details
TRQ suspension kits are manufactured using premium raw materials and coatings for extended service life. Each TRQ suspension component is designed to be a direct, maintenance-free replacement to the stock unit. To extend the life of your steering and suspension components, TRQ recommends replacing components in pairs, sets, or kits. All products are fit and road-tested in our Massachusetts R&D facility to ensure we deliver on our promise of Trusted Reliable Quality.
Product Features
Our steering and suspension components are pre-greased and sealed for long life and do not require the extra maintenance typically required by greaseable versions.
Item Condition:
New
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WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Chromium (Hexavalent Compounds), which is known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
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Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Don from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and the next time you need a part for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we're going to show you how to replace a front stabilizer link on this 2007 Pontiac G6. It's the same as any 2005 to 2010 G6, as well as the Saturn Aura. Not a difficult procedure. You will need jack and jack stands, and you'll want to jack up both front wheels off the ground and support it with jack stands. Then you'll need a lug wrench or a 19mm socket with a ratchet, maybe even a breaker bar and a pipe for some extra leverage. Then, after that, you'll just need two 18mm wrenches, one of those 18mm will have to have an open end.
Start out by using just a socket to loosen the lug nut covers, or the wheel cover as in this case. We're going to use impact or air tools sometimes. If you don't have the benefit of air tools, just start with the vehicle on the ground, loosen the lug nuts, then raise and secure the vehicle, and move the lug nuts from the wheel and tire.
Use an 18mm wrench to grab on to the nuts, part of the stud of the stabilizer link, and then use an 18mm socket, loosen up the nut, and then it comes off. Here's the fun part of the repair. You pull that down out of the way, and you can see the other end of the link right there. Put the 18mm wrench on the nut that's in the shaft, just like before. Then, there's not really enough room to get a ratchet back in there, so you basically just have to take a wrench and slowly, carefully, one eighth of a turn at a time, and I'll fast-forward the video as we do that.
Then, just reinstall the link as you took it apart. Go ahead and speed up as we tighten up that lower nut, and like I said before: it's not all that difficult; it just takes quite a bit of time because you can't move that nut too far each time.
Bring the sway bar link back into place, and should you possibly feel the need to replace those sway bar links, at 1AAuto.com, we sell those as well. But then use a 18mm wrench and an 18mm socket and ratchet to tighten up that bolt. And that bolt should be tightened somewhere around 70 to 75 foot-pounds. Put the bracket that holds your brake hose back into place, and start the 10mm bolt on and tighten it up.
Reinstall the wheel. Put the lug nuts on by hand first just to make sure you don't cross thread them, then tighten them preliminarily. Put the vehicle on the ground, torque the lug nuts to 100 foot pounds using a star pattern. Now, reinstall your hubcap and we're going to do that with that 19mm socket. I'm just going to screw them in by hand. Also, we want to make sure you line up the valve stem with the notch in the hubcap for the valve stem. I'll go ahead and fast-forward through that.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
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Okay, friends. Before we get started, the first thing that I want to mention is you want to be safe. So, have hand protection and eye protection. The next thing we're going to talk about is safely raising and supporting the vehicle so the suspension is hanging. So, come right underneath here. This is where you're going to support the vehicle in the front. Now, with the front of the vehicle safely raised and supported, we're going to remove all five of our 19-millimeter lug nuts. Remove your wheel.
First, what I like to do is remove the sway bar link from the front strut. So, I'm going to use some locking pliers, come from the backside right here and just try to hold onto the stud so it can't spin. All right. Let's get this off of here. Okay. Now that we have the sway bar link off of here, we need to go over to the other side of the vehicle and remove the sway bar link from the strut as well. That way there, we can move the sway bar up and down as needed to get to that mounting nut. There it is, friends.
Okay, friends. Now it's going to be time to put it in our brand new front sway bar link. One thing I like to mention is it's always a great idea to do these as a pair. And if that's the case, now's the time to do it. So, let's go ahead and put this in starting with the bottom. Now, I'm going to use my 17-millimeter wrench to hold the stud from spinning, and then we'll snug it up. If you were to try to torque this you'd want to torque it to 48 foot-pounds. It's going to be very difficult to torque because as you try to twist, it's going to want to lift up on the bar. If you try to put the bar inside here, obviously, you're not gonna be able to get to it. So, 48 foot-pounds, if you can do it. Let's get the sway bar link connected to the strut. Let's torque this to 48 foot-pounds. We're going to go ahead and put the wheel on here. We'll start all the lug nuts, we'll snug them up and then we'll torque them to 100 foot-pounds. Torqued.
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Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
In this video, we're going to show you how to replace a front stabilizer link. The symptom of a bad stabilizer link is if you're hearing a clunking in the front of your car, but when you go around a curve, either left or right, the clunking seems to go away. That's usually a sign that your stabilizer link is starting to loosen up. Tools you'll need are 8mm to 19mm wrenches as well as a hammer.
Turn your wheel all the way to one side or the other. Then you can reach in behind and you can see it here. This is the top of your link. You can reach in behind and grab that with your hand and shake it back and forth and if you can duplicate that clanking or rattling sound then that's what you need to replace.
Start out by using a 19mm socket or a wrench and loosen the plastic covers and then remove the wheel cover. If you don't have the benefit of air tools, you'll want to loosen the lug nuts up while it's on the ground, then raise and support your vehicle and then remove the lug nuts and the wheel.
Right here is our stabilizer link. Use a little bit of penetrating oil on the upper and lower, let that sit for awhile. We've got an 18mm wrench on the bolt and 8mm wrench on the end of the shaft there. It looks like it actually coming loose, there goes that bolt. Get that started. Put this on there and I'm going to put this one on down there and same thing. Here's a close up look. I've got the 18mm wrench on there. The 8mm wrench is just holding that stud in place and I just keep flipping back and forth with the larger wrench, grabbing onto the nut and removing it. I'm just going to speed up the tape here. It takes a little while to get these things apart. It's a tedious task of getting the wrenches in there, holding it with the smaller wrench and then using the small one and then just angling the larger wrench in there as best you can. Eventually it comes apart.
Here's a new link from 1A Auto. Iit's a little bit different but it actually makes it easier to install. You'll need a 15mm wrench to hold this on that side and then a 19mm socket and ratchet to put the bolt on. We're going to put down in. It mounts in just like your original. Start the locking bolt on here and we'll start the locking bolt down here. Up top, I put my 15mm wrench through from the backside and then a 19mm socket and ratchet. I'll just speed it up as I tighten it up with the ratchet and you want to get it nice and tight and probably 40 to 45 foot-pounds. Then continuing on down to the lower, it's the same as taking it apart. You really can't get a wrench in there or a ratchet in there so you just have to use a wrench. I used the 15mm wrench to hold the stud and then a 19mm wrench to tighten up the nut and it just takes a little while and, then, again, tighten it up between 40 to 45 foot-pounds.
Once you have the wheel back in place then you put the lug nuts on by hand and I just use my impact wrench to just tighten them preliminarily. Now with the vehicle on the ground, torque the lug nuts to 100 foot-pounds using a star pattern. Now put your wheel cover back on, there's a hole for the valve stem then use a socket to tighten up the retainers.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
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Tools used
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Don from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and the next time you need a part for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we're going to show you how to replace a front control arm on this 2007 Pontiac G6. It's pretty much the same for any G6 from 2005 to 2010, as well as the Saturn Aura. We show you the right hand or passenger's side, but the left hand or driver's side is the same procedure. You'll need a new control arm or control arms from 1AAuto.com. If one of your control arms bushings have gone bad, most likely the other one's not far behind. Replacing them in pairs is usually a good idea. You'll also need jack and jack stands, 15mm to 18mm wrenches and sockets, a ratchet and a breaker bar or a pipe for some leverage, a pry bar, and a torque wrench.
Start out by using just a socket to loosen the lug nut covers or the wheel cover as in this case. We're going to use an impact or air tools sometimes, if you don't have the benefit of air tools just start with the vehicle on the ground, loosen the lug nuts, then raise and secure the vehicle and remove the lug nuts, wheel and tire.
Okay, now from underneath looking out, use a 15mm wrench and a 16mm socket and ratchet, and loosen the ball joint, bolt, and nut. Use an 18mm socket and a ratchet and a pipe for extra leverage to remove the front bolt. This is looking towards the center of the car. There's a bolt in the front of the control arm and we remove that.
Towards where the back of the tire would be, you'll see a large bushing here. There are two 18mm bolts right on the bottom and they have nuts on top. We use an 18mm socket and a ratchet, and we're going to use a piece of pipe for extra leverage. You can also use a breaker bar and just break those bolts free a little bit. Now, I'm going to fast-forward as we take an 18mm wrench, feed it right under the stabilizer bar there, grab onto the nut that's on top, and then remove the bolts. We're just going to want to use a wrench and loosen up this bolt a little bit, it just makes things easier to come around. And, actually, you can take it right off because it comes off fairly easily.
Now, using a pry bar, we start by prying the front of the control arm out. Then go to the back bushing, put the pry bar behind, and pry out. Reinstall the control arm, and you can see our control arm we're re-installing the original. There's nothing wrong with it, so we're not going to put a new one on. Fairly new car, we're just showing you how to do it.
Put the control arm up in place. The ball joint in place next, and then put the bolt through, and put the nut on to hold it. Now you can take the rear part of the control arm and feed it up into the frame as well as the same time you're feeding the front part up into the frame. Then a little help from the pry bar, get everything lined up and in.
Turn your attention towards the front. Use of a little hammer, and just make sure you get the front lined up fairly well. Put that bolt in place, and you'll have to just grab onto the suspension and work it around. You can use a hammer to tap in once you get it started as well. Have your pry bar in hand, just to help you move around that bushing a little bit until you get the first bolt up through, and then you can put the second bolt up through, put the nuts on the back as well as start the bolt into the end of the bushing.
I'll keep the speed going here as I put a wrench behind and tighten up these two 18mm bolts. These bolts should be between 75 and 85 foot-pounds. Torque the nut for the tie rod to 50 foot-pounds. We apologize, we didn't film this very well. What you want to do is put a jack underneath the lower ball joint and lift your suspension up until there's just weight off the jack stand that gets your suspension into the right geometry, and then tighten that rear bushing bolt. You need to tighten that up to about 55 foot-pounds and then tighten this front bolt to 75 foot-pounds.
Reinstall the wheel. Put the lug nuts on by hand first just to make sure you don't cross thread them and then tighten them preliminarily. Put the vehicle on the ground, and torque the lug nuts to 100 foot-pounds using a star pattern. Now reinstall your hub cap, and we're going to do that with that 19mm socket. I'm just going to screw them in by hand. Also, you want to make sure that you line up the valve stem with the notch in the hub cab for the valve stem.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
Tools used
Tools used
Tools used
Now, with the front of the vehicle safely raised and supported, we're gonna remove all five of our 19-millimeter lug nuts. Remove your wheel. Now that we have the wheel off, I always like to put just one lug nut back on just to hold the rotor from flopping around. We have a nice, clear view of our lower control arm at this point, we're going to be removing this bolt right here. Up above that, you're going to see two nuts that have bolts that come through from the bottom. We're going to spray those two nuts as well. And then if you were to follow the control arm all the way over to the knuckle, you're going to see that there's a pinch bolt that goes through right there. And, of course, a slot on the knuckle where the ball joint goes through. Let's spray all those areas as well. The next thing I like to do is remove the pinch bolt for the ball joint. I'm gonna use my 15-millimeter here to take off the nut and hold the bolt with a 16-millimeter. I might need to use a punch and a hammer to get this out of here. I'm gonna respray this area with more penetrant and let it sit and do its job. Let's move along. Next, let's remove this bolt right here using our 14-millimeter wrench. Let's remove the forward bolt. Let's just leave this bolt in just a tiny bit. Let's get our wrench onto these top nuts up there and remove the bolts from the bottom.
Now we need to separate our ball joint from the knuckle itself. To do that, I'm going to bonk right along here with my hammer and just try to separate the two. You could also use a pickle fork, come right in between here. Or if you had to, you could try to spread the knuckle a little bit using a punch. As you can tell, it's starting to separate. Let's continue. Sometimes a pry bar will come in handy. Let's remove our forward bolt, tilt this down some more. Continue with the pry bar. Draw this out of here. Grab the control arm, pull it towards the front of the vehicle. Let's get the rearward bracket out of here. There it is, friends. The next thing I like to do is mark the control arm with the rearward bushing, so I know how they need to line up. And then we're going to remove this bolt right here using our 14-millimeter wrench. There we are. Take this right off of here. Set it aside. Next. I like to apply thread locker to all my bolts that I'm going to be reinstalling. Now we're going to loosely install our rearward bushing here. You want to make sure that you have this portion facing towards the front and not this portion. My bolt, there it is. Next, I like to apply a little bit of grease or lubricant along the shaft area right here. It's going to help it slide into that bushing. And just a tad up along the ball joint stud here, let's go ahead and put this up in here like this. Put it through that rear bushing.
Now we're just gonna swing this up. We're going to try to line our ball joint up with the knuckle right there. There we are. Carefully using a rubber mallet. Start the bolt through there, pin that on there. Now we need to do the forward bushing. Slide that like that so it's lined up. Now we're going to carefully bonk under here with a rubber mallet and try to line up the forward hole. Start this in. This other bolt started in here as well. At this point, we're going to snug these two up. Put some thread locker on this bolt and put this in there. We're going to bottom it out. Let's carefully bottom this out. Now we're gonna torque this. You want to torque it to 37, loosen it up a little bit, re-torque it to 37, and then we're going to go an additional 30 degrees. Okay. So, there's 37, now we're just going to go our approximate additional 30 degrees. Now we're gonna tighten these bolts to 37 foot-pounds, and then we'll also tighten them an additional 90 degrees afterward. So, I'm gonna turn this just like this, and now I'll bring the ratchet pretty much straight back to me. There we are. Do the same to the other one.
Next, we need to apply load to the suspension so it would be as though the vehicle's wheel is on the ground and the weight of the vehicle's on it. That's it right there. Once you've done that, let's go ahead and bottom out this bolt right here. Now we're going to torque this bolt to 37 foot-pounds. And then after we've done that, we need to continue an extra 90 degrees. There we are. The next thing we need to do is snug this up right here, and then torque it to 32 foot-pounds. Let's unload the suspension. Let's get this lug nut off of here. Put the wheel back on, start all the lug nuts, bottom them out, and then torque them to 100 foot-pounds.
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Tools used
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we're going to show you how to replace a stabilizer link on this Chevy Cobalt, pretty much the same for any Cobalt as well as the Pontiac G5. The stabilizer link makes kind of a rattling or thunking noise when you go over a bump. A good indicator that it's your stabilizer link is if you're getting that rattling noise and then, you turn your vehicle, you take a curve, and the rattling noise goes away; that usually means it's a pretty good indicator that it's that stabilizer link that's bad. The tools you'll need are jack and jack stands, 18mm and 19mm sockets with a ratchet. You'll need some pipe for some extra leverage as well as a breaker bar and 15mm and 18mm wrenches. It's pretty much a bolt-on, bolt-off, but sometimes these nuts are really difficult to remove, so there's some techniques in this video that will help you out.
Use a 19mm socket or lug wrench and remove the lug caps and the wheel cover. If you don't have access to air tools, you'll want to start with the vehicle on the ground. Loosen the lug nuts first and then raise the vehicle and remove the lug nuts and the wheel and tire.
Now, use an 18mm wrench and you can grab on the back side there and then use an 18mm socket and ratchet and remove that nut. Use a little bit of penetrating oil just to help get that nut off easier. Now, I'm using my 18mm socket with the ratchet and a piece of pipe. You can use pipe or if you have a breaker bar. You just need some extra leverage. Get that bolt to move some, and then, actually, grab on to the wrench, hold the wrench, and start it loosened and then you can do it by hand the rest of the way. Once you remove that nut, then you can just knock out or remove the top of that stabilizer link. Now, here what I've done is I've supported the bottom of the suspension. What that allows, is it allows me to get a breaker bar onto that bottom bolt and first you can pull the breaker bar, which breaks the nut and the bolt, breaks it free. Then you see with the breaker bar, I start loosening up that nut. You're just going to have to work at it, it's kind of tough to get apart. Just go at it for a while and the nut eventually comes off. Actually, after you get it loosened somewhat, you can get your ratchet on there, and then, use the ratchet to get the nut the rest of the way off. Once you have that off, you can just reach up in there and pull the stabilizer link out.
So, the 1A strut is pretty much the same thing. It has a little different sizes. It's a 19mm nut and a 15mm stud. We'll fast forward through this part. You just take that stabilizer link and put it back into the new strut and put the nut on, and tighten the nut up. You want to get it nice and tight. If you were to torque it, I guess it would be probably about 45 to 50 foot-pounds. Also, if you have ABS brakes, you want to reconnect any clips or anything that holds the wiring to the strut.
Reinstall the tire. You want to put the lug nuts on by hand first and then just kind of preliminarily tighten them, and torque them when the vehicle is back down on the ground.
We'll tighten and torque these to 20 foot-pounds. We'll speed up here as I do that. On the inside one you can't really get a torque wrench on it, so I just used a small combination wrench and got it nice and tight. 20 foot-pounds is not that tight. You don't want to over-tighten them because you could strip them and these are not bolts that you want to strip. Now torque your lug nuts to 100 foot pounds each and then replace either your wheel cover or the wheel caps and the retainers
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
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