2008 Chevrolet Malibu without RPO Code FE5 (Performance Ride Handling Suspension) Front 8 Piece Steering, Suspension, & Drivetrain Kit TRQ PSA56382

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Hi, I'm Don from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and the next time you need a part for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.

In this video, we're going to show you how to replace a front control arm on this 2007 Pontiac G6. It's pretty much the same for any G6 from 2005 to 2010, as well as the Saturn Aura. We show you the right hand or passenger's side, but the left hand or driver's side is the same procedure. You'll need a new control arm or control arms from 1AAuto.com. If one of your control arms bushings have gone bad, most likely the other one's not far behind. Replacing them in pairs is usually a good idea. You'll also need jack and jack stands, 15mm to 18mm wrenches and sockets, a ratchet and a breaker bar or a pipe for some leverage, a pry bar, and a torque wrench.

Start out by using just a socket to loosen the lug nut covers or the wheel cover as in this case. We're going to use an impact or air tools sometimes, if you don't have the benefit of air tools just start with the vehicle on the ground, loosen the lug nuts, then raise and secure the vehicle and remove the lug nuts, wheel and tire.

Okay, now from underneath looking out, use a 15mm wrench and a 16mm socket and ratchet, and loosen the ball joint, bolt, and nut. Use an 18mm socket and a ratchet and a pipe for extra leverage to remove the front bolt. This is looking towards the center of the car. There's a bolt in the front of the control arm and we remove that.

Towards where the back of the tire would be, you'll see a large bushing here. There are two 18mm bolts right on the bottom and they have nuts on top. We use an 18mm socket and a ratchet, and we're going to use a piece of pipe for extra leverage. You can also use a breaker bar and just break those bolts free a little bit. Now, I'm going to fast-forward as we take an 18mm wrench, feed it right under the stabilizer bar there, grab onto the nut that's on top, and then remove the bolts. We're just going to want to use a wrench and loosen up this bolt a little bit, it just makes things easier to come around. And, actually, you can take it right off because it comes off fairly easily.

Now, using a pry bar, we start by prying the front of the control arm out. Then go to the back bushing, put the pry bar behind, and pry out. Reinstall the control arm, and you can see our control arm we're re-installing the original. There's nothing wrong with it, so we're not going to put a new one on. Fairly new car, we're just showing you how to do it.

Put the control arm up in place. The ball joint in place next, and then put the bolt through, and put the nut on to hold it. Now you can take the rear part of the control arm and feed it up into the frame as well as the same time you're feeding the front part up into the frame. Then a little help from the pry bar, get everything lined up and in.

Turn your attention towards the front. Use of a little hammer, and just make sure you get the front lined up fairly well. Put that bolt in place, and you'll have to just grab onto the suspension and work it around. You can use a hammer to tap in once you get it started as well. Have your pry bar in hand, just to help you move around that bushing a little bit until you get the first bolt up through, and then you can put the second bolt up through, put the nuts on the back as well as start the bolt into the end of the bushing.

I'll keep the speed going here as I put a wrench behind and tighten up these two 18mm bolts. These bolts should be between 75 and 85 foot-pounds. Torque the nut for the tie rod to 50 foot-pounds. We apologize, we didn't film this very well. What you want to do is put a jack underneath the lower ball joint and lift your suspension up until there's just weight off the jack stand that gets your suspension into the right geometry, and then tighten that rear bushing bolt. You need to tighten that up to about 55 foot-pounds and then tighten this front bolt to 75 foot-pounds.

Reinstall the wheel. Put the lug nuts on by hand first just to make sure you don't cross thread them and then tighten them preliminarily. Put the vehicle on the ground, and torque the lug nuts to 100 foot-pounds using a star pattern. Now reinstall your hub cap, and we're going to do that with that 19mm socket. I'm just going to screw them in by hand. Also, you want to make sure that you line up the valve stem with the notch in the hub cab for the valve stem.

We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.

Okay, friends. The first thing you need to talk about anytime you're working on your vehicle is safety. You want hand and eye protection. With that said, safely raise and support your vehicle so the wheels are off the ground. Once you've done that, we're going to remove all five of our 19-millimeter lug nuts. Remove your wheel. Now that we have the wheel off, we have a clear view of our caliper and our rotor. What we need to do first is get the caliper out of the way and then we're going to remove the rotor. Looking at the backside of the caliper, you're going to see two mounting bolts, one located right here, and one located up top. Remove them both and get the caliper out of the way. Remove your caliper. Carefully set it aside. Let's go ahead and get the rotor off of here. And now, we have a clear view of our bearing. Coming from the backside of the bearing, you want to make sure that you remove your ABS wire and be very careful with it because it's extremely delicate. Grab this tab, pull it down, check your wiring. Make sure you don't see any funny colors.

Next, we're going to take some penetrant spray and spray down all of our mounting studs. I always like to go around the center as well. Now, we're gonna use a 15-millimeter socket and remove all four of our mounting nuts. Now, we're going to take a hammer and we're going to try to bonk from the backside of this and just try to help it out. Once it starts breaking free in one direction, we'll come from the other side a little bit and just keep going until it comes out. Looks like it started to move. Grab your bearing, remove your backing plate. There it is, friends. Now that's out of the way, let's clean up the mounting surface. Spray down the area with a little bit of copper never-seize. Before you install your backing plate, make sure you double-check both sides to make sure there's no raised areas that are going to be between mating surfaces. Once you're sure, go ahead and take your bearing, put it through the backing plate, put it through your knuckle, and then go around back and put on those mounting nuts. Little bit of threadlocker. Now, we're going to start on all the nuts. We'll bottom them out and then we'll torque them to 47 foot-pounds. Criss-cross.

Let's get our ABS wire reconnected. Click it in, give it a nice tug. It must be secure. Use some copper never-seize. Make sure you clean the backside of your rotor, where it's going to be mating up against this hub right here. Once you've done that, go ahead and put it on. I always like to start on a lug nut to hold the rotor from moving around. Let's grab the caliper, remount it on here. It's always a great idea to use a little bit of threadlocker on your bolts. Torque these bolts to 96 foot-pounds. Wheel up on here. We'll start on the lug nuts and then we'll torque them down to 100 foot-pounds. Let's torque these to 100 foot-pounds in a criss-cross manner. Torqued. Go ahead and pump up the brake pedal. Let's go ahead and check and top off our brake fluid.

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In this video, we're going to show you how to replace a front stabilizer link. The symptom of a bad stabilizer link is if you're hearing a clunking in the front of your car, but when you go around a curve, either left or right, the clunking seems to go away. That's usually a sign that your stabilizer link is starting to loosen up. Tools you'll need are 8mm to 19mm wrenches as well as a hammer.

Turn your wheel all the way to one side or the other. Then you can reach in behind and you can see it here. This is the top of your link. You can reach in behind and grab that with your hand and shake it back and forth and if you can duplicate that clanking or rattling sound then that's what you need to replace.

Start out by using a 19mm socket or a wrench and loosen the plastic covers and then remove the wheel cover. If you don't have the benefit of air tools, you'll want to loosen the lug nuts up while it's on the ground, then raise and support your vehicle and then remove the lug nuts and the wheel.

Right here is our stabilizer link. Use a little bit of penetrating oil on the upper and lower, let that sit for awhile. We've got an 18mm wrench on the bolt and 8mm wrench on the end of the shaft there. It looks like it actually coming loose, there goes that bolt. Get that started. Put this on there and I'm going to put this one on down there and same thing. Here's a close up look. I've got the 18mm wrench on there. The 8mm wrench is just holding that stud in place and I just keep flipping back and forth with the larger wrench, grabbing onto the nut and removing it. I'm just going to speed up the tape here. It takes a little while to get these things apart. It's a tedious task of getting the wrenches in there, holding it with the smaller wrench and then using the small one and then just angling the larger wrench in there as best you can. Eventually it comes apart.

Here's a new link from 1A Auto. Iit's a little bit different but it actually makes it easier to install. You'll need a 15mm wrench to hold this on that side and then a 19mm socket and ratchet to put the bolt on. We're going to put down in. It mounts in just like your original. Start the locking bolt on here and we'll start the locking bolt down here. Up top, I put my 15mm wrench through from the backside and then a 19mm socket and ratchet. I'll just speed it up as I tighten it up with the ratchet and you want to get it nice and tight and probably 40 to 45 foot-pounds. Then continuing on down to the lower, it's the same as taking it apart. You really can't get a wrench in there or a ratchet in there so you just have to use a wrench. I used the 15mm wrench to hold the stud and then a 19mm wrench to tighten up the nut and it just takes a little while and, then, again, tighten it up between 40 to 45 foot-pounds.

Once you have the wheel back in place then you put the lug nuts on by hand and I just use my impact wrench to just tighten them preliminarily. Now with the vehicle on the ground, torque the lug nuts to 100 foot-pounds using a star pattern. Now put your wheel cover back on, there's a hole for the valve stem then use a socket to tighten up the retainers.

We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.

Now, with the front of the vehicle safely raised and supported, we're gonna remove all five of our 19-millimeter lug nuts. Remove your wheel. Now that we have the wheel off, I always like to put just one lug nut back on just to hold the rotor from flopping around. We have a nice, clear view of our lower control arm at this point, we're going to be removing this bolt right here. Up above that, you're going to see two nuts that have bolts that come through from the bottom. We're going to spray those two nuts as well. And then if you were to follow the control arm all the way over to the knuckle, you're going to see that there's a pinch bolt that goes through right there. And, of course, a slot on the knuckle where the ball joint goes through. Let's spray all those areas as well. The next thing I like to do is remove the pinch bolt for the ball joint. I'm gonna use my 15-millimeter here to take off the nut and hold the bolt with a 16-millimeter. I might need to use a punch and a hammer to get this out of here. I'm gonna respray this area with more penetrant and let it sit and do its job. Let's move along. Next, let's remove this bolt right here using our 14-millimeter wrench. Let's remove the forward bolt. Let's just leave this bolt in just a tiny bit. Let's get our wrench onto these top nuts up there and remove the bolts from the bottom.

Now we need to separate our ball joint from the knuckle itself. To do that, I'm going to bonk right along here with my hammer and just try to separate the two. You could also use a pickle fork, come right in between here. Or if you had to, you could try to spread the knuckle a little bit using a punch. As you can tell, it's starting to separate. Let's continue. Sometimes a pry bar will come in handy. Let's remove our forward bolt, tilt this down some more. Continue with the pry bar. Draw this out of here. Grab the control arm, pull it towards the front of the vehicle. Let's get the rearward bracket out of here. There it is, friends. The next thing I like to do is mark the control arm with the rearward bushing, so I know how they need to line up. And then we're going to remove this bolt right here using our 14-millimeter wrench. There we are. Take this right off of here. Set it aside. Next. I like to apply thread locker to all my bolts that I'm going to be reinstalling. Now we're going to loosely install our rearward bushing here. You want to make sure that you have this portion facing towards the front and not this portion. My bolt, there it is. Next, I like to apply a little bit of grease or lubricant along the shaft area right here. It's going to help it slide into that bushing. And just a tad up along the ball joint stud here, let's go ahead and put this up in here like this. Put it through that rear bushing.

Now we're just gonna swing this up. We're going to try to line our ball joint up with the knuckle right there. There we are. Carefully using a rubber mallet. Start the bolt through there, pin that on there. Now we need to do the forward bushing. Slide that like that so it's lined up. Now we're going to carefully bonk under here with a rubber mallet and try to line up the forward hole. Start this in. This other bolt started in here as well. At this point, we're going to snug these two up. Put some thread locker on this bolt and put this in there. We're going to bottom it out. Let's carefully bottom this out. Now we're gonna torque this. You want to torque it to 37, loosen it up a little bit, re-torque it to 37, and then we're going to go an additional 30 degrees. Okay. So, there's 37, now we're just going to go our approximate additional 30 degrees. Now we're gonna tighten these bolts to 37 foot-pounds, and then we'll also tighten them an additional 90 degrees afterward. So, I'm gonna turn this just like this, and now I'll bring the ratchet pretty much straight back to me. There we are. Do the same to the other one.

Next, we need to apply load to the suspension so it would be as though the vehicle's wheel is on the ground and the weight of the vehicle's on it. That's it right there. Once you've done that, let's go ahead and bottom out this bolt right here. Now we're going to torque this bolt to 37 foot-pounds. And then after we've done that, we need to continue an extra 90 degrees. There we are. The next thing we need to do is snug this up right here, and then torque it to 32 foot-pounds. Let's unload the suspension. Let's get this lug nut off of here. Put the wheel back on, start all the lug nuts, bottom them out, and then torque them to 100 foot-pounds.

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Hi, I'm Don from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and the next time you need a part for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.

In this video, we're going to show you how to replace an outer tire rod on this 2007 Pontiac G6. It's pretty much the same as any 2005 to 2010 G6, as well as a Saturn Aura. We show you the right-hand or passenger side, but the left-hand driver side is the same procedure. You'll need a new tie rod or tie rods from www.1AAuto.com, jack and jack stands, 18mm and 19mm sockets with a socket wrench, maybe even a breaker bar or a pipe for leverage, tape measure, 18mm wrench, large adjustable or a 13/16 wrench, hammer, and a torque wrench.

Depending on what wheels you have, start out be removing the lug caps, and then we'll cover if applicable. Then, if you don't have the benefit of air tools, you're going to want to loosen the lug nuts with the vehicle on the ground. Then raise and support the vehicle. I'll remove the lug nuts, wheel, and tire.

Use a tape measure to get a general idea of a total length. You can use a reference point of the outer part of the boot, and then the outer part of the tie rod end, and just remember that number. On the end of the tie rod is an 18mm, so I'm using the socket and socket wrench to remove that nut. I'll fast-forward as I take off that nut.

Locate the nut at the end of the outer tire rod. We're going to go ahead and just loosen it just a little bit. I'm using a 13/16 wrench. You can use the metric equivalent. With a hammer, go ahead and give the end of that spindle a whack and pull the outer tie rod out. Then you can go ahead and unscrew it. I'll fast-forward through that. Be as careful as you can to not turn the inner tie rod.

Here, we're going to reinstall. You'll notice we are reinstalling the old one. There's nothing wrong with the tie rods on this vehicle. We just are doing this to show you how to do it. Tie rods from 1A Auto are going to be an exact match to the original. You may want to just measure the length. There could be a slight difference in length, and you would want to make sure you align it well.

Go ahead and put that 18mm nut back on the outer tire rod. I'm using a small pair of vice grips to hold the other part of the ball joint so that it doesn't spin as I tighten up that 18mm nut. There might be other ways that you would find easier to do it, but that's the one that I use. Then once I get it through, I'll be able to put the vice grip on the end that's coming through the nut. You can see here that once I take that socket off, I'll have plenty of room to put that on, and then use an open-ended wrench.

Here, I'm using that vice grip on the bottom, and I'm going to use an open-ended wrench to finish up tightening it up. I'll fast-forward through this. Now tighten up the nut on the inner tie rod that we just slightly loosened. Make sure that's snug up against the back portion of that outer tie rod. I'm just verifying that the tire rod is in somewhat of a right position, and it will be ready for me to take over to have an alignment done.

Install the wheel, and tighten up on your lug nuts. I'll go ahead and fast-forward through this. In a star pattern, go ahead and torque your lug nuts to roughly 100 foot-pounds. Reinstall your hubcap, and make sure that you line up the notch in the hubcap for where your valve stem is. Then, by hand, use your 19mm socket to tighten up those plastic lug nut covers. I'll fast-forward through that.

We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.

Okay, friends. Before we get started, the first thing that I want to mention is you want to be safe. So, have hand protection and eye protection. The next thing we're going to talk about is safely raising and supporting the vehicle so the suspension is hanging. So, come right underneath here. This is where you're going to support the vehicle in the front. Now, with the front of the vehicle safely raised and supported, we're going to remove all five of our 19-millimeter lug nuts. Remove your wheel.

First, what I like to do is remove the sway bar link from the front strut. So, I'm going to use some locking pliers, come from the backside right here and just try to hold onto the stud so it can't spin. All right. Let's get this off of here. Okay. Now that we have the sway bar link off of here, we need to go over to the other side of the vehicle and remove the sway bar link from the strut as well. That way there, we can move the sway bar up and down as needed to get to that mounting nut. There it is, friends.

Okay, friends. Now it's going to be time to put it in our brand new front sway bar link. One thing I like to mention is it's always a great idea to do these as a pair. And if that's the case, now's the time to do it. So, let's go ahead and put this in starting with the bottom. Now, I'm going to use my 17-millimeter wrench to hold the stud from spinning, and then we'll snug it up. If you were to try to torque this you'd want to torque it to 48 foot-pounds. It's going to be very difficult to torque because as you try to twist, it's going to want to lift up on the bar. If you try to put the bar inside here, obviously, you're not gonna be able to get to it. So, 48 foot-pounds, if you can do it. Let's get the sway bar link connected to the strut. Let's torque this to 48 foot-pounds. We're going to go ahead and put the wheel on here. We'll start all the lug nuts, we'll snug them up and then we'll torque them to 100 foot-pounds. Torqued.

Okay friends. Before we get started, the first thing that I want to mention is you want to be safe, so have hand protection and eye protection. The next thing we're gonna talk about is safely raising and supporting the vehicle so the suspension is hanging. So come right underneath here, this is where you're gonna support the vehicle in the front. Now with the front of the vehicle, safely raised and supported. We're gonna remove all five of our 19-millimeter lug nuts.

Remove your wheel. Now that we have the wheel off, we have a clear view of our tie rod area, I'm just gonna spray down these areas with some penetrant spray. Now we're gonna use some nice long pliers, and I'm gonna break this jam nut free. Turn this clockwise. There we are. Now, we're gonna remove our outer tie rod end nut.

If you find that the outer tie rod end nut just spins the whole stud inside of the knuckle, you could take those nice long pliers or whatever you might happen to have, and just try to squeeze this down as tight as you can. We're gonna apply a little bit of pressure, and we'll try again. If your tie rod still stuck in the knuckle, it's great to use a hammer, bonk right on the knuckle right here, and break it free.

For the next part, we're gonna want something that you can write with, because we're gonna take off the tie rod, but as we turn it, and we make a complete rotation, we're gonna count those rotations and take note of it. That's one, two, three, and so on. It's always important to make sure you coat your threads with something such as copper never seize.

Now it's gonna be time to put on our brand new outer tie rod end. As you go to install it, make sure you put on the same amount of turns that you had to remove the old one. One, two, three, and so on. Should pretty much line up. Let's put on our outer tie rod end nut. We'll snug it up, and then we'll torque it to manufacturer specifications as well. We wanna torque this to 18 foot-pounds and then add an additional 90 degrees, so basically a quarter turn after the 18. So that's 18. Now I need to take it another quarter turn. I'm gonna start approximately like that, and I'm gonna bring it right out to me. There we are.

The next thing we wanna do is pay attention to the slots on the nut compared to the hole in the stud. If it doesn't line up, you need to continue tightening until it does. Go to the very next slot. As you can tell I have that lined up now. Take your cotter pin, slide it through, and then peen it over so there's no way this nut can loosen up on its own.

Now it's time to tighten up our jam nut. We're gonna grab this, turn it counterclockwise. That feels good. Now just go ahead and grab onto that tie rod, make sure it's pretty level and it's not kinked in any way. Double check everything. We have all our clamps. Perfect. We're gonna go ahead and put the wheel on here. We'll start all the lug nuts, we'll snug them up, and then we'll torque them to 100 foot pounds. Torqued.

Okay, friends, before we get started, make sure you safely raise and support your vehicle so your wheel is off the ground. Once you've done that, we're gonna remove all five of our 19-millimeter lug nuts. Remove your wheel. Just to say, we're gonna be servicing a lot of things on the front end of this vehicle, so if you see anything that's taken apart that isn't necessarily in the steps that you need to see, well just don't really pay too much attention to that, and just follow the steps ahead.

All right, now that we've got the wheel off, let's go ahead and remove the caliper bolts from the caliper bracket sliders. Using a small pry bar, I'm just gonna get right in between here and see if I can apply a little bit of pressure and push back this caliper a tiny bit. You can use a wire tie or even a bungee cord. Let's get our pads out of here. Remove your caliper bracket bolts, one here and one up here. Hold that bracket. Now it's gonna be time to get the rotor off of here. If you find that it's stuck on the bearing, just give it a couple loving bonks around this area here. Just be careful for your studs, and definitely don't hit the braking surface.

Now we're gonna use our 36-millimeter socket and remove our axle nut. I always like to spray down the area with some penetrant. So next, we need to push our axle out through our bearing. To do that, you never want to use the hammer directly on your axle, because you could peen over the threads, and of course, that's gonna cause an issue. What I would like to use is a center punch. Come right in the middle here, give it a couple loving bonks. If you don't have a punch, just go ahead and use the original nut here. Put it on there so it's pretty much flush, and then you can go ahead and give it a couple bonks that way. When you do that, you don't have to worry about damaging the threads.

Next, we need to remove our outer tie rod and nut. If you notice when you're trying to take off your outer tie rod and nut that the stud was just spinning inside your knuckle area, use some nice long pliers like this. And we're just gonna try to squeeze that outer tie rod end up against here. Try to reset that stud into the knuckle. Now I'm gonna continue on by loosening this. If you wanted to apply a little bit of heat to your nut, it might be helpful as well. Obviously, if your tie rod's in the same condition as ours, where the boot's just pretty much completely ruined slash gone, just go ahead and replace your outer tie rod end. All right, let's get this out of here.

Now it's time to get our ABS wire disconnected. Now we need to separate the knuckle from the actual strut itself. To do that, we're gonna remove these 18-millimeter nuts, and then push out these bolts. Get this out of the way. I'm just gonna start these back on so we don't damage the threads of the bolts. Now let's continue with a hammer. Give these a couple loving bonks. If you want to use a little bit of penetrant, it's probably a great idea. Now let's separate the two of these. Push in on that axle a little bit.

Now, with the bracket loose, I can see these right here. I'm just gonna give them a nice squeeze, see if I can get it to break free from the actual bracket itself. There we are. We'll set this aside. So now we can turn the knuckle any direction we want, and we can fully access these bolts. That's great. Use your 13-millimeter, remove all three. Let's take one of our bolts. We're gonna put it right through here with the knuckle in there. Let's spray down the area with some penetrant. Continue on with your hammer. Give this a couple bonks. We need to break it free from the knuckle.

Looks like it's barely starting to move. Now that we've got it starting to come off, let's remove that bolt. Continue on. There it is, friends. It's important to take a look inside the knuckle area. If you see any of this, like what I have here, that means that your bearing separated upon removal, and we need to continue getting the rest of it out. Now we need to clean up the mounting area for the new bearing. If you were to look along this area right here, I can see a lot of corrosion and a lot of raised areas. I need to make sure that this is nice and smooth, but we don't want to stop there. We need to continue on to this inner surface here, and make sure we get rid of any of the underlying corrosion that's there as well.

Once you have the area cleaned up, go ahead and use a little bit of copper never seize along all the areas that you just cleaned. Let's clean up the threads on the bolts. I always like to use a little bit of thread locker. We'll call it your prerogative. Now we're gonna take those bolts, the backing plate, and our brand new wheel bearing, and get ready for our install. First, I'm gonna take the backing plate, I'm gonna line it up just like this. You want to make sure that the slotted area is where your caliper is gonna go. Take your wheel bearing, carefully put it through, but you want to make sure that the wire area is facing up and out towards the rear of the vehicle. Make sure it's not caught on anything, of course. Line up all three holes, close as possible at least, and then start in all three bolts. We'll snug them up, and then we'll torque them to manufacturer specifications.

Okay. All three of those are snug. Now we're gonna torque them. Torque this to 85 foot-pounds. Something that we need to pay attention to before we go ahead and reinstall the knuckle up here is the corrosion that comes right along this area. If you have any corrosion along your knuckle, just make sure you get that off. I always like to put a tiny bit of copper never seize inside the bearing where the axle's gonna go. Let's get the axle back inside the bearing here. There we are. Bring the knuckle up, and now we're gonna start in our bolts. These bolts are gonna go from the front towards the rear. Let's get our ABS wire on here. Start on both of these nuts. We'll bottom them out, and then we'll torque them to 89 foot-pounds.

Connect in your ABS wire. Make sure it clicks in and locks, and then secure it right here. Let's put in our tie rod. Go ahead and put that nut on there. Now I'm gonna snug it up, and then we'll torque it to manufacturer specifications. Let's torque this to 18 foot-pounds. And now we need to turn it an additional 90 degrees, which basically means a quarter turn. So I'm gonna start my ratchet right here, and then I'm gonna come right along so it looks like this. That's pretty decent. If your tie rod stud has a castle nut like this, you want to make sure that the castle nut slot is lined up with the stud itself. Go ahead and put through a cotter pin if you have one, and of course, lock it in.

Next, we're gonna put on our axle nut. If you want to use a little bit of thread locker, we'll call it your prerogative. We'll bottom this out, and then we'll torque it to manufacturer specifications. The best way to torque this is to go ahead and take a nice long pry bar like this, put it flat across the studs, that way there the hub can not turn. Now we're gonna torque this to 159 foot-pounds. Torqued. Let's go ahead and put a little bit of copper never seize on our hub.

Time to install the rotor. And I always like to hold it on with a lug nut. That way, there can't wiggle around. Let's go ahead and get the bracket on here. I always like to use a little bit of thread locker on my bolts. Start them both in, we'll snug them up, and then we'll torque them to manufacturer specifications. Torque these to 96 foot-pounds. Go ahead and carefully put this in here. Put on the outer pad as well. Now we're gonna slide this right over the sliders, and of course, over the pads. Line up those sliders. We'll put in our slider bolts.

Now we're just gonna bottom these out, and then we'll torque them to 26 foot-pounds. Make sure you clean down your entire braking surface, just in case you have any fingerprints on it. All right. Let's just double-check everything that we fixed here. Looks great. We'll get the wheel up on. We'll start all the lug nuts, snug them up, and then we're gonna torque them to 100 foot-pounds. All right, 100 foot-pounds. Torqued.

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In this video we show you how to replace a front hub on this 2006 Chevy Malibu, same as any 04 to 08 Malibu as well as the Pontiac G6. You know if you have a bad hub if you jack the front wheel off the ground, and you can grab the top and bottom of the wheel and shake it and feel play and then you can also grab each side left and right, shake it and feel the same play. That kind of four-angled play is usually because of a bad hub. Tools you'll need are jack and jack stands, various sockets 13 to 19 mm plus a 35 mm socket with ratchets and extensions. You'll need a breaker bar or a pipe for some extra leverage, flat blade screwdriver, large hammer, wire brush and a torque wrench.

Start out by using a 19 mm socket or wrench and loosen the plastic covers and then remove the wheel cover. You're going to remove the lug nuts, and if you don't have air tools, you'll want to have the wheel on the ground, loosen the lug nuts. Also at this point, you'll want to loosen that 35 mm hub nut. I do have the benefit of having an impact wrench, so I'm able to do that afterwards, but if you don't have an impact wrench, you want to use a breaker bar and a 35 mm socket and loosen that center hub nut now while the wheel is on the ground.

Grab hold of the steering knuckle and turn it to make it easier to reach the back of the caliper. The first thing we're going to do is remove these two bolts here. These two bolts are 14 mm and they should come off pretty easy. I'm just going to speed it up as I remove those two bolts. Now your disc should come off, but since there are some pretty decent ridges here. What you want to do is take a good size screwdriver and pry out with this hole and that kind of loosens up the caliper, and the caliper comes right off. Put it up there for now, and you can just kind of pry out your pads.

Now we need to remove this caliper bracket, so we'll remove two 15 mm bolts here and here. These are going to be somewhat tighter, so I'm going to use my ratchet. If you have a breaker bar, that's the best thing or use a piece of pipe, put it on your ratchet, gives you extra leverage and it comes apart pretty easily. The same thing top one. Get it started.
I'm just going to speed it up here again as I remove those bolts. I found that once I turned them probably three or four turns then they actually came out by hand. Comes over, pulls right off. Right up here is your ABS harness with a little tab pull that down, disconnect that, then just use a screwdriver, push these tabs down and pull the plug off. I take a 35 mm bolt here for the hub. As I said earlier, if you don't have the benefit of impact tools or air tools, you'll want to loosen this hub nut while the wheel is still on and the vehicle is on the ground.

Now your axle you don't want to make it a habit to just beat on this mercilessly with the hammer. What I do is I give it one good tap, and I watch closely, and if that axle moves with one good hit, you know it's broken loose. You don't have to worry too much about it. Okay, the axle moved, so I should be able to get it apart, no problem. If the axle doesn't move with the tap of a hammer, then you'll need to use an axle puller which bolts onto your lug and then use the bolt to push the axle through.

Next we're going to remove the three bolts that hold the hub. Okay, one is up there, one there and one around the back side is kind of hidden tucked right in there. These bolts, especially the top one, you're going to want probably 3/8 drive tools, because they're skinnier, and they allow you go get in there. I'm going to get a pretty good-sized flexible handle and try that. I can use my pipe for a little more leverage. These should come apart pretty easily. At this point I'll speed it up. Use the pipe for the extra leverage, get the bolts loosened up and then you can go at it with the ratchet and remove them the rest of the way. You'll want to turn your steering knuckle so that you can reach the third nut on the backside and then just remove those bolts. Once you have the bolts out, good there. I'm going to speed it up here. Basically you just hit it side to side, up and down and you'll see the hub start to separate from the steering knuckle and then eventually it comes loose, then you can pull it right off. Take the hub off, and your backing plate off. Just kind of wire tied my brake caliper up there. Use a screwdriver and a wire brush to just kind of clean the corrosion from the steering knuckle.

It may need a light coat of grease. It really helps things go back together. You can use some penetrating oil or just regular oil. Take your backing plate and I'm just going to put that in place. Your connector one you want to have that up toward the rear, through the backing plate and put your connector up and through and push on the CV a little bit. Make sure that your electro connector is toward the rear and get the hub onto the axle, spin this around in the correct position, put one of your bolts through. Push everything into place. I'll speed it up here again. You push the hub on, make sure it's in place correctly, start the other two bolts. All the time you're doing this just make sure that ABS wire doesn't get pinched in there anywhere and tighten up those bolts.

Make sure your wire is pulled through, and it's free and put the receptacle right up and clip it into place and I'll reconnect it. Tighten these bolts to hold the hub to the steering knuckle with 65 foot pounds. I'll just speed it up here. Turn the steering knuckle and tighten up the other two again to 65 foot pounds.

New rotor from 1A Auto. Put it on. Take a lug nut. Bolt it into place here. Now take your bracket and it goes basically between the knuckle and the disc, put your bolt in, find its way. These bolts you want to tighten up to 85 foot pounds. Put this one on the front. You want to make sure that your slides are pushed in here, bring your caliper down right on top, two bolts. These two bolts you want to tighten to 35 foot pounds. Once you have the wheel back in place, then you put the lug nuts on by hand, and then I'm just use my impact wrench to just tighten them up preliminarily.

Now with the vehicle on the ground, torque the lug nuts to 100 pounds using a star pattern, now torque your center hub nut, the 35 mm nut with 159 foot pounds, put your wheel cover back on, there's a hole for the valve stem, then use a socket to tighten up the retainers. Last but certainly not least before you drive your vehicle, make sure you pump the brakes a bunch of times, get the pedal to feel nice and firm when you have to reset those caliper pistons, then do stops from five and ten miles an hour before you road test the vehicle.

We hope this helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet. Please feel free to call us toll free 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the internet and in person.