Chevrolet Pontiac Saturn Front 12 Piece Steering & Suspension Kit TRQ PSA59353

Now, with the front of the vehicle safely raised and supported, we're gonna remove all five of our 19-millimeter lug nuts. Remove your wheel. Now that we have the wheel off, I always like to put just one lug nut back on just to hold the rotor from flopping around. We have a nice, clear view of our lower control arm at this point, we're going to be removing this bolt right here. Up above that, you're going to see two nuts that have bolts that come through from the bottom. We're going to spray those two nuts as well. And then if you were to follow the control arm all the way over to the knuckle, you're going to see that there's a pinch bolt that goes through right there. And, of course, a slot on the knuckle where the ball joint goes through. Let's spray all those areas as well. The next thing I like to do is remove the pinch bolt for the ball joint. I'm gonna use my 15-millimeter here to take off the nut and hold the bolt with a 16-millimeter. I might need to use a punch and a hammer to get this out of here. I'm gonna respray this area with more penetrant and let it sit and do its job. Let's move along. Next, let's remove this bolt right here using our 14-millimeter wrench. Let's remove the forward bolt. Let's just leave this bolt in just a tiny bit. Let's get our wrench onto these top nuts up there and remove the bolts from the bottom.

Now we need to separate our ball joint from the knuckle itself. To do that, I'm going to bonk right along here with my hammer and just try to separate the two. You could also use a pickle fork, come right in between here. Or if you had to, you could try to spread the knuckle a little bit using a punch. As you can tell, it's starting to separate. Let's continue. Sometimes a pry bar will come in handy. Let's remove our forward bolt, tilt this down some more. Continue with the pry bar. Draw this out of here. Grab the control arm, pull it towards the front of the vehicle. Let's get the rearward bracket out of here. There it is, friends. The next thing I like to do is mark the control arm with the rearward bushing, so I know how they need to line up. And then we're going to remove this bolt right here using our 14-millimeter wrench. There we are. Take this right off of here. Set it aside. Next. I like to apply thread locker to all my bolts that I'm going to be reinstalling. Now we're going to loosely install our rearward bushing here. You want to make sure that you have this portion facing towards the front and not this portion. My bolt, there it is. Next, I like to apply a little bit of grease or lubricant along the shaft area right here. It's going to help it slide into that bushing. And just a tad up along the ball joint stud here, let's go ahead and put this up in here like this. Put it through that rear bushing.

Now we're just gonna swing this up. We're going to try to line our ball joint up with the knuckle right there. There we are. Carefully using a rubber mallet. Start the bolt through there, pin that on there. Now we need to do the forward bushing. Slide that like that so it's lined up. Now we're going to carefully bonk under here with a rubber mallet and try to line up the forward hole. Start this in. This other bolt started in here as well. At this point, we're going to snug these two up. Put some thread locker on this bolt and put this in there. We're going to bottom it out. Let's carefully bottom this out. Now we're gonna torque this. You want to torque it to 37, loosen it up a little bit, re-torque it to 37, and then we're going to go an additional 30 degrees. Okay. So, there's 37, now we're just going to go our approximate additional 30 degrees. Now we're gonna tighten these bolts to 37 foot-pounds, and then we'll also tighten them an additional 90 degrees afterward. So, I'm gonna turn this just like this, and now I'll bring the ratchet pretty much straight back to me. There we are. Do the same to the other one.

Next, we need to apply load to the suspension so it would be as though the vehicle's wheel is on the ground and the weight of the vehicle's on it. That's it right there. Once you've done that, let's go ahead and bottom out this bolt right here. Now we're going to torque this bolt to 37 foot-pounds. And then after we've done that, we need to continue an extra 90 degrees. There we are. The next thing we need to do is snug this up right here, and then torque it to 32 foot-pounds. Let's unload the suspension. Let's get this lug nut off of here. Put the wheel back on, start all the lug nuts, bottom them out, and then torque them to 100 foot-pounds.

Okay, friends, before we get started, the first thing that I want to mention is you wanna be safe. So have hand protection and eye protection. The next thing we're gonna talk about is safely raising and supporting the vehicle so the suspension's hanging. So come right underneath here. This is where you're gonna support the vehicle in the front. Now, with the front of the vehicle safely raised and supported, we're gonna remove all five of our 19-millimeter lug nuts. Remove your wheel.

Now that we have the wheel off, we have a clear view of our tie rod area. I'm just gonna spray down these areas with some penetrant spray. Now we're gonna use some nice long pliers, and I'm gonna break this jam nut free. Turn this clockwise. There we are. Now we're gonna remove our outer tie rod end nut. If you find that the outer tie rod end nut just spins the whole stud inside of the knuckle, you could take those nice long pliers or whatever you might happen to have and just try to squeeze this down as tight as you can. We're gonna apply a little bit of pressure and we'll try again. If your tie rod's still stuck in the knuckle, it's great to use a hammer, bonk right on the knuckle right here and break it free.

For the next part, we're gonna want something that you can write with because we're gonna take off the tie rod, but as we turn it and we make a complete rotation, we're gonna count those rotations and take note of it. That's one, two, three, and so on. The next thing we need to do is hold our inner tie rod end shaft with some locking pliers. After that, we're gonna remove this jam nut. Next, we need to remove this clamp right here. I like to use some nice long pliers.

Next, we need to remove this metal clamp right here. To do that, it's easiest if you bonk on it with something. I'm just gonna use a pry bar and a hammer. I'm gonna bonk it, break it free, and we'll get that boot right off. Here it is. Grab onto your boot. Give it a nice little twist. See if you can break it free from the power steering rack. If your boot is stuck on the power steering rack, you can be careful and use an ice pick like this and just try to break it free. Oh, yeah. Now I can give it a nice twist. Pull it off the power steering rack. You might notice it's also stuck on here. If you want to use a tiny bit of penetrant, you could do that. I'm just gonna twist and give it a tug. It should wanna slide right off.

Next, it's gonna be time to get the inner tie rod end off of the power steering rack. A wise man once said whatever works, works. So you can either use some nice long pliers like this, an inner tie rod end tool that looks like this, or they even have a tube that would slide over with a little adapter. Do whatever you need to do, but turn it counterclockwise and remove it from the rack. Now that the tool's on there, let's go ahead and break this free. There we are. We'll just get our tool off of there, but there it is.

Now it's gonna be time to install our brand new inner tie rod end. One thing that you wanna do, of course, is to take off that jam nut. We're gonna be reusing it, so we'll just set it aside. After we've done that, we're gonna apply a little bit of grease, right along inside here of the nice packet that they gave us. Don't use it all because we're also gonna use a little bit right along this lip right here. I'll just put all this right in there. Using a gloved finger, go ahead and just smooch it all right in there. This is gonna help keep moisture out of there and, of course, help lubricate it over time. A little bit right here, like I said. If you wanna use a little bit of blue threadlocker on those threads, we'll call it your prerogative. I'm just gonna go ahead and screw this on here until it's nice and snug and then we'll tighten it to manufacturer specifications. Torque this to 74-foot-pounds.
Now it's gonna be time to get our inner tie rod end boot on there. Just go ahead and take a nice wire tie, start it so it's not tight yet. We're gonna slide this right on over. We'll put it over the rack as well, and then, of course, we'll snug it right up. You need to make sure you have some sort of clamp if you don't use a wire tie. Trim off the excess. Now we're gonna make sure we put on the outer clamp. If it's damaged or it doesn't seem like it has enough spring retention, of course, replace that with something as well. Now it's gonna be time to coat the threads with something. If you don't have any copper never seize, you can go ahead and just use a tiny bit of that grease that we just used for the inner tie rod end. New jam nut.

Now it's gonna be time to put on our brand new outer tie rod end. As you go to install it, make sure you put on the same amount of turns that you had to remove the old one. One, two, three, and so on. Should pretty much line up. Let's put on our outer tie rod end nut. We'll snug it up and then we'll torque it to manufacturer specifications as well. We wanna torque this to 18-foot-pounds and then add an additional 90 degrees. So basically 1/4 turn after the 18. So that's 18. Now I need to take it another 1/4 turn. I'm gonna start approximately like that and I'm gonna bring it right out to me. There we are.

The next thing we wanna do is pay attention to the slots on the nut, compare it to the hole in the stud. If it doesn't line up, you need to continue tightening until it does. Go to the very next slot. As you can tell, I have that lined up now. Take your cotter pin, slide it through, and then peen it over so there's no way this nut can loosen up on its own.

Now it's time to tighten up our jam nut. We're gonna grab this, turn it counterclockwise. That feels good. Now just go ahead and grab onto that tie rod, make sure it's pretty level and it's not kinked in any way. Double-check everything. We have all our clamps. Perfect. We're gonna go ahead and put the wheel on here. We'll start all the lug nuts. We'll snug them up and then we'll torque them to 100-foot-pounds. Torqued.

Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet. Hi, I'm John from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out and the next time you need a car for your vehicle, think of the 1AAuto.com. Thanks.

In this video we're going to show you how to replace front struts on this 2007 Pontiac G6. Very much the same for any 2005-2010 G6 as well as the Saturn Aura. We're going to show you the right hand side. The left hand side is the same procedure and we always recommend that you replace your struts in pairs. And speaking of struts you want to get a nice new set of loaded struts from 1AAuto.com. We sell both brand name as well as private label: Jack and Jack stands, 10, 18, and 19 mm sockets, ratchet and breaker bar or pipe for some extra leverage, and 18 mm wrench and a hammer.

Start out by using just the socket to loosen the lug nut covers or the wheel cover as in this case. We're going to use impact or air tools sometimes. If you don't have the benefit of air tools just start with the vehicle on the ground, loosen the lug nuts then raise and secure the vehicle and remove the lug nuts, wheel, and tire and grab the suspension and turn the wheels or turn them with the steering wheel and there's a 10 mm bolt that holds the brake line bracket to the strut, remove that.

There are 2, 18 mm nuts on the back side of the strut. You want to use a ratchet, using a breaker bar and a pipe or something here for some extra leverage might be in order but you can see on our vehicle they come off with just a good amount of force. Use an 18 mm wrench to grab onto the nuts part of the stud of the stabilizer link and then use an 18 mm socket. Loosen up the nut and then it comes off. Use a hammer, be careful not to damage the bolts too much. You might want to put a nut on the back of them and although ours came out pretty easy, and just drive those bolts right out. Heading up top underneath the hood, there are three 13 mm bolts that hold the top of the strut in place and we'll fast forward as we remove those. You can remove 2 of them and then just loosen one up most of the way.

And as you're taking that last nut off, you can just keep your hand on the strut and as you take the nut off you will be able to lower the strut out. And then put the strut back in place and yes, you probably will notice that we're just putting the old strut back in. The struts in this car were in fine shape and so we're not usually ones to waste putting a new strut into a car that doesn't need them. We're just kind of doing this to show you how to do it but you put it into place, start one of the nuts on top and then start the other two and you can tighten those up and the top nuts you should torque to 20 to 25 foot pounds.

Back down under now, lift your brake hub assembly and steering knuckle back in to the strut. You can force it in there and you put one of the bolts in, and just kind of put it in a little bit and then as you move the knuckle around on the strut you should be able to get the bolt through. Then make sure you put the bracket back into place and you can get the second bolt through and if you like use a hammer or something just to drive the bolts all the way through. And it should be noted that we do recommend an alignment after you do this because the movement of these struts is something that affects the caster and camber of your wheels.

And torque those nuts to 85 foot pounds. Bring the sway bar link back into place and should you possibly feel the need to replace those sway bar links, 1AAuto.com, we sell those as well but then use a 18 mm wrench and an 18 mm socket and ratchet to tighten up that bolt. That bolt should be tightened somewhere around 70 to 75 foot pounds. Put the bracket that holds your brake hose back into place and start the 10 mm bolt on and tighten it up. Please install the wheel and put the lug nuts on by hand first just to make sure you don't cross thread them then tighten them preliminarily.

the vehicle on the ground, torque the lug nuts to 100 foot pounds using a star pattern. Now reinstall your hubcap and I'm going to do that with that 19 mm socket and then I'm just going to screw them in by hand. Also want to make sure that you line up the valve stem with the notch in the hubcap for the valve stem and I'll go ahead and fast forward through that.

We hope this helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet. Please feel free to call us toll free: 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the internet and in person.

Okay, friends. Before we get started, the first thing that I want to mention is you want to be safe. So, have hand protection and eye protection. The next thing we're going to talk about is safely raising and supporting the vehicle so the suspension is hanging. So, come right underneath here. This is where you're going to support the vehicle in the front. Now, with the front of the vehicle safely raised and supported, we're going to remove all five of our 19-millimeter lug nuts. Remove your wheel.

First, what I like to do is remove the sway bar link from the front strut. So, I'm going to use some locking pliers, come from the backside right here and just try to hold onto the stud so it can't spin. All right. Let's get this off of here. Okay. Now that we have the sway bar link off of here, we need to go over to the other side of the vehicle and remove the sway bar link from the strut as well. That way there, we can move the sway bar up and down as needed to get to that mounting nut. There it is, friends.

Okay, friends. Now it's going to be time to put it in our brand new front sway bar link. One thing I like to mention is it's always a great idea to do these as a pair. And if that's the case, now's the time to do it. So, let's go ahead and put this in starting with the bottom. Now, I'm going to use my 17-millimeter wrench to hold the stud from spinning, and then we'll snug it up. If you were to try to torque this you'd want to torque it to 48 foot-pounds. It's going to be very difficult to torque because as you try to twist, it's going to want to lift up on the bar. If you try to put the bar inside here, obviously, you're not gonna be able to get to it. So, 48 foot-pounds, if you can do it. Let's get the sway bar link connected to the strut. Let's torque this to 48 foot-pounds. We're going to go ahead and put the wheel on here. We'll start all the lug nuts, we'll snug them up and then we'll torque them to 100 foot-pounds. Torqued.

Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.

Hi, I'm Don from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and the next time you need a part for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.

In this video, we're going to show you how to replace a front control arm on this 2007 Pontiac G6. It's pretty much the same for any G6 from 2005 to 2010, as well as the Saturn Aura. We show you the right hand or passenger's side, but the left hand or driver's side is the same procedure. You'll need a new control arm or control arms from 1AAuto.com. If one of your control arms bushings have gone bad, most likely the other one's not far behind. Replacing them in pairs is usually a good idea. You'll also need jack and jack stands, 15mm to 18mm wrenches and sockets, a ratchet and a breaker bar or a pipe for some leverage, a pry bar, and a torque wrench.

Start out by using just a socket to loosen the lug nut covers or the wheel cover as in this case. We're going to use an impact or air tools sometimes, if you don't have the benefit of air tools just start with the vehicle on the ground, loosen the lug nuts, then raise and secure the vehicle and remove the lug nuts, wheel and tire.

Okay, now from underneath looking out, use a 15mm wrench and a 16mm socket and ratchet, and loosen the ball joint, bolt, and nut. Use an 18mm socket and a ratchet and a pipe for extra leverage to remove the front bolt. This is looking towards the center of the car. There's a bolt in the front of the control arm and we remove that.

Towards where the back of the tire would be, you'll see a large bushing here. There are two 18mm bolts right on the bottom and they have nuts on top. We use an 18mm socket and a ratchet, and we're going to use a piece of pipe for extra leverage. You can also use a breaker bar and just break those bolts free a little bit. Now, I'm going to fast-forward as we take an 18mm wrench, feed it right under the stabilizer bar there, grab onto the nut that's on top, and then remove the bolts. We're just going to want to use a wrench and loosen up this bolt a little bit, it just makes things easier to come around. And, actually, you can take it right off because it comes off fairly easily.

Now, using a pry bar, we start by prying the front of the control arm out. Then go to the back bushing, put the pry bar behind, and pry out. Reinstall the control arm, and you can see our control arm we're re-installing the original. There's nothing wrong with it, so we're not going to put a new one on. Fairly new car, we're just showing you how to do it.

Put the control arm up in place. The ball joint in place next, and then put the bolt through, and put the nut on to hold it. Now you can take the rear part of the control arm and feed it up into the frame as well as the same time you're feeding the front part up into the frame. Then a little help from the pry bar, get everything lined up and in.

Turn your attention towards the front. Use of a little hammer, and just make sure you get the front lined up fairly well. Put that bolt in place, and you'll have to just grab onto the suspension and work it around. You can use a hammer to tap in once you get it started as well. Have your pry bar in hand, just to help you move around that bushing a little bit until you get the first bolt up through, and then you can put the second bolt up through, put the nuts on the back as well as start the bolt into the end of the bushing.

I'll keep the speed going here as I put a wrench behind and tighten up these two 18mm bolts. These bolts should be between 75 and 85 foot-pounds. Torque the nut for the tie rod to 50 foot-pounds. We apologize, we didn't film this very well. What you want to do is put a jack underneath the lower ball joint and lift your suspension up until there's just weight off the jack stand that gets your suspension into the right geometry, and then tighten that rear bushing bolt. You need to tighten that up to about 55 foot-pounds and then tighten this front bolt to 75 foot-pounds.

Reinstall the wheel. Put the lug nuts on by hand first just to make sure you don't cross thread them and then tighten them preliminarily. Put the vehicle on the ground, and torque the lug nuts to 100 foot-pounds using a star pattern. Now reinstall your hub cap, and we're going to do that with that 19mm socket. I'm just going to screw them in by hand. Also, you want to make sure that you line up the valve stem with the notch in the hub cab for the valve stem.

We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.

Okay, friends, before we get started, the first thing that I want to mention is you want to be safe. So have hand protection and eye protection. The next thing we're going to talk about is safely raising and supporting the vehicle so the suspension is hanging. So come right underneath here, this is where you're going to support the vehicle in the front. Now with the front of the vehicle safely raised and supported, we're going to remove all 5 of our 19-millimeter lug nuts. Remove your wheel. Now that the wheel is off, we have a nice clear view of our front strut. With that said, anything that you're going to be removing bolts or nut-wise, you want to of course, spray it down with some penetrant.

First, what I like to do is remove the sway bar link from the front strut. So I'm going to use some locking pliers, come from the backside right here and just try to hold onto the stud so it can't spin. All right. Let's get this off of here. Let's get the brake hose off of here. What we want to do here is just kind of move this brake line a little bit so we can give some slack between the stud and the strut, that way there we can lift this right up and out.

The next thing we need to do is loosen our 36-millimeter axle nut. The reason for that is because when this knuckle is going to want to pull away from the strut, we don't want to put a tug on any of our axle boots. A little bit of penetrant. The next thing you would want to do is either with a center punch, come right into that little dimple and just try to drive this axle into the bearing a little bit, just to give a little bit of slack, or of course, if you don't have a center punch, just put the nut so it matches up evenly, give it a couple loving bonks this way. That's nice and loose.

Next, we're going to remove our 18-millimeter nuts located right here and there. They hold the knuckle to the strut. Grab this bracket, carefully set it aside. These bolts right here are actually going to have to be forced out of the knuckle area. So what I always like to do is just take those nuts and I'm going to start them back on there, a few good threads, and you want to make sure that we're not going to damage the thread of the bolts. Give it a couple of loving bonks. Keep your ABS wire clear, do the same thing to the other one.

If you look at these bolts, you can see they're both the same, and if you look, you can also see that it's splined. That's the reason why it was stuck inside the knuckle.

Now we're going to carefully try to separate these two, but we want to make sure that this doesn't come down too far because once again, we don't want to put a tug on our axle boots, and we definitely don't want to put a tug on our brake line. If you want to have a bungee cord or something that's going to hold it at least away, but safely, that's up to you. There we are. I'm just going to set this right like that. Now we need to get under the hood. Now that we have the hood up, you have a clear view of the strut tower here. With that said, you don't want to touch this center nut. We're only going to remove these three, but when we remove all three, we want to leave one on there just a couple of threads for safety, and then we'll get under, we'll hold onto the strut and then we'll remove that nut.

If for some reason your strut didn't drop down when you removed all three of your nuts like that, it's because it's probably frozen along this area here into the strut tower. Use a little bit of penetrant and then carefully bonk right along here until it finally breaks free. Down like this, I'm just going to hold onto that strut, remove that last nut, and then I can remove it. There it is, friends. One thing that's always a great idea before you go ahead and try to put your new strut into the vehicle, is just line up the strut cap with the way the original was. So a match up from the bottom, make sure it's facing a straight line, and then just set these where they need to be. You can do that fairly easily by just holding the bottom and then turning the cap itself. Okay, friends, now it's going to be time to get our brand new front strut in here. As we do this, I like to mention that I always like to use a little bit of thread locker right on these studs. We'll call it your prerogative, but I recommend it. When we put this in, we want to make sure we line up the bolt holes with the studs coming out of our strut itself.

We'll start on all of our nuts, and then we'll snug them down and torque them to manufacturer specifications. Something that's important to make sure that I mention before we go ahead and put our knuckle up into the strut, is if you were to look along the backside of the knuckle, you might find that there's a lot of corrosion buildup. That's due to the fact that somebody made the knuckle out of aluminum and they put it in with the steel. When you have aluminum with steel, it just corrodes and that's what happens.

So feel along the back. If it feels as though it's raised, you need to make sure you take a chisel or whatever you might happen to have and clean that out. Now that I've got that knuckle cleaned up, let's go ahead and put this up so it's going to line up the bolt holes. Obviously, you want to clean up the threads on your mounting bolts. Something I always like to use is a little bit of red thread locker, we'll call it your prerogative. Go ahead and start those through from the front to the back. Grab your two mounting nuts and of course, your bracket for the ABS wire, start it on there. We'll start these nuts, we'll bottom them out, and then we'll torque them to manufacturer specifications.

Torque both these nuts to 89 foot-pounds. Let's get our brake hose back in there. It slides right into this little groove, and then of course we'll tighten it up. Let's get the sway bar link connected to the strut. Let's torque this to 48 foot-pounds. After you've bottomed out your axle nut, torque it to 159 foot-pounds. I like to put a bar straight across these studs like this, you want to be careful and make sure it's flat and not at an angle because you don't want to damage your threads on your studs.

We're going to go ahead and put the wheel on here. We'll start all the lug nuts, we'll snug them up and then we'll torque them to 100 foot-pounds. Torqued. Now it's going to be time to make sure we go ahead and torque these down. Before we do that though, you need to make sure you have your wheel on the ground with the weight of the vehicle. Let's torque them to 18 foot-pounds.

Okay friends. Before we get started, the first thing that I want to mention is you want to be safe, so have hand protection and eye protection. The next thing we're gonna talk about is safely raising and supporting the vehicle so the suspension is hanging. So come right underneath here, this is where you're gonna support the vehicle in the front. Now with the front of the vehicle, safely raised and supported. We're gonna remove all five of our 19-millimeter lug nuts.

Remove your wheel. Now that we have the wheel off, we have a clear view of our tie rod area, I'm just gonna spray down these areas with some penetrant spray. Now we're gonna use some nice long pliers, and I'm gonna break this jam nut free. Turn this clockwise. There we are. Now, we're gonna remove our outer tie rod end nut.

If you find that the outer tie rod end nut just spins the whole stud inside of the knuckle, you could take those nice long pliers or whatever you might happen to have, and just try to squeeze this down as tight as you can. We're gonna apply a little bit of pressure, and we'll try again. If your tie rod still stuck in the knuckle, it's great to use a hammer, bonk right on the knuckle right here, and break it free.

For the next part, we're gonna want something that you can write with, because we're gonna take off the tie rod, but as we turn it, and we make a complete rotation, we're gonna count those rotations and take note of it. That's one, two, three, and so on. It's always important to make sure you coat your threads with something such as copper never seize.

Now it's gonna be time to put on our brand new outer tie rod end. As you go to install it, make sure you put on the same amount of turns that you had to remove the old one. One, two, three, and so on. Should pretty much line up. Let's put on our outer tie rod end nut. We'll snug it up, and then we'll torque it to manufacturer specifications as well. We wanna torque this to 18 foot-pounds and then add an additional 90 degrees, so basically a quarter turn after the 18. So that's 18. Now I need to take it another quarter turn. I'm gonna start approximately like that, and I'm gonna bring it right out to me. There we are.

The next thing we wanna do is pay attention to the slots on the nut compared to the hole in the stud. If it doesn't line up, you need to continue tightening until it does. Go to the very next slot. As you can tell I have that lined up now. Take your cotter pin, slide it through, and then peen it over so there's no way this nut can loosen up on its own.

Now it's time to tighten up our jam nut. We're gonna grab this, turn it counterclockwise. That feels good. Now just go ahead and grab onto that tie rod, make sure it's pretty level and it's not kinked in any way. Double check everything. We have all our clamps. Perfect. We're gonna go ahead and put the wheel on here. We'll start all the lug nuts, we'll snug them up, and then we'll torque them to 100 foot pounds. Torqued.