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Product Features
TRQ drivetrain kits are manufactured using premium raw materials to restore original performance. Each TRQ drivetrain component is designed to be a direct, maintenance-free replacement to the stock unit. To extend the service life of your drivetrain, TRQ recommends replacing wheel hubs, bearings, and constant velocity (CV) drive axles at the same time to ensure even wear of components and improved ride comfort. All products are fit and road-tested in our Massachusetts R&D facility to ensure we deliver on our promise of Trusted Reliable Quality.
What are Tapered Bearings and Why Use Them? Tapered bearings use rollers shaped like flat-topped cones and two races angled from the outside in of the bearing. This angle makes the bearing better at handling forces exerted on the bearing during cornering (known as axial load) in trucks and large cars. Your model came from the factory with tapered bearings. Roller ball bearings work well for smaller cars, but replacing a tapered bearing with a roller ball bearing increases wear and failure.
Install Tip: When replacing steering components, have a professional alignment performed afterwards. This ensures proper tracking and even tire wear.
Our steering and suspension components are pre-greased and sealed for long life and do not require the extra maintenance typically required by greaseable versions.
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Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Lead and Lead Compounds, which are known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov.
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
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Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we're going to show you how to replace the right hand, or passenger side, front axle on this 2011 Chevy Silverado. This is a 1500. The procedure for the left axle is pretty much the same, and it's also the same for these trucks for model years 2007-2013 for both this Chevy Silverado 1500, as well as the GMC Sierra. In this repair we use new axle or axles from 1AAuto.com, jack and jack stands, 15 to 22mm sockets with a ratchet extension. You'll need a breaker bar and a pipe for some extra leverage, a 36mm socket, and I separate that one out because it's not one that's usually in your regular socket set. You'll need to buy that one special, some penetrating oil, and a torque wrench. You can replace these axles one at a time, or in pairs.
From the top, there are three 18mm nuts that hold the top of the strut in place. You see one there, one has a wire lube on it there that I'm going to reach down and grab and just pull off. Apologies for the camera shot, but you just grab the wire clip and pull it up off the stud. Okay, so you have your other one there and your third one there. Now use an 18mm socket with a long extension and remove those three nuts. Remove the center cap just by prying with a screw driver. If you don't have the benefit of air tools, loosen the lug nuts with the vehicle on the ground then raise and secure the vehicle and then remove the lug nuts the rest of the way. Remove the wheel and tire they are 22mm lug nuts.
Turn the wheel using hands or the steering wheel. Then you need to remove the stabilizer link. Make sure you put some penetrating oil on the top end of it there. Then use a wrench on the top side and a socket wrench on the bottom side. Remove it all the way. We're going to kind of speed up a little bit, "cheat" a little bit while using an impact wrench to take that off to speed things up for us. Here's the shock and strut in place. We're just using that 15mm socket ratchet. You might want a breaker bar to break them loose, but they come apart pretty easy on this truck. We'll fast-forward as we just take those out.
Get those bolts out. Press down on the suspension some, and bring the strut down and then up and out. Using your hammer and a cold chisel, you could also use a large pair of pliers to pull off that center cap. We just kind of get it started, and then pry it off with a screwdriver. Okay, the nut is a 36mm nut if you have the benefit of an air impact wrench. You can also just pull the brakes, use a breaker bar and a large pipe or something for extra leverage to loosen it up. We'll put the wheel back on, set the emergency brake, and take it off. Loosen it up that way, and then raise the vehicle back up and take it off the rest of the way.
We're going to put a screwdriver into the brake rotor, that's going to hold things in place. You could do that also when you're removing that 36mm nut for the end of the axle. Then there are six 15mm bolts that hold the axle to the differential, and we're just going to remove those. And once those bolts are out, pull the axle from the differential and pull it right out.
The new axle goes right up into place. Put it into the hub first, you have to twist it a little bit to get the splines to line up. Then push on the other end of the axle and put it up into place. Line it up with the differential. Now I'll just fast-forward here as we put the bolts in, start all the bolts in, and then tighten them up preliminarily. And then you want to tighten all the bolts to between 55 and 60 foot-pounds. We'll fast-forward as we make sure we torque all those bolts correctly. And we're using the screwdriver to hold the rotor in place so we can torque it.
Now we'll go back to putting the strut in, and the strut does line up. There is a, you can see where the spring goes into the mount. The end of the spring should face out. Put the strut up in place and start the bolts on. You'll notice we're putting in a new strut in here. You'll also probably notice that there's an old axle in the footage, that's because when we filmed putting the strut and everything back together, we had not replaced the axle yet.
Now put the bottom down in place and take your bolt run up through, and then those clips that you took off of the original strut, put them into place. We just kind of hold them with our fingers, get the bolts started in, and then you can press them down into place and tighten up the bolts the rest of the way. Okay, and you can see here we use a screwdriver to put through the clip to hold it in place until it gets down far enough that it holds itself in place. And repeat it for the other side as well. Okay, and you can tighten these up between 70-75 foot-pounds.
Okay, speed up as we put the stabilizer link back in place. Use a pry bar to lift up on the sway bar a little bit, put the link back in place, put the bolt up through and then tighten the nut down on top. Put the tire back on, thread the lug nuts on, and then tighten them up preliminarily. Put that center bolt back on and tighten it to 156 foot-pounds. Torque your lug nuts to 110 foot-pounds using a crossing pattern. And then put that center cap back on. And then back up top, tighten up the three nuts that hold the top of the strut in place, tighten them to 70 foot-pounds. And put that wire retainer back in place and you're all set.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
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Tools used
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we're going to replace the front hub on this 2011 Chevy Silverado. It's a 1500, four-wheel drive. We're going to replace the right-hand or passenger side, the same procedure of the left-hand driver's side. This is the same for a 2007 through 2013 Silverado 1500 as well as GMC Sierra 1500 with four-wheel drive.
Items you'll need are a new hub or hubs from 1AAuto.com, jack and jack stands, 15 to 22mm sockets with ratchet. You'll need a breaker bar, and/or a pipe for some extra leverage, T-30 torx bit with driver, 36mm socket for the center hub nuts, some penetrating oil, wire brush, small pry bar, hammer, grease and a torque wrench.
Take your flat-blade screw driver and pry off the center cap. I apologize. I'm going a little bit out of order here. You can see we already have the wheel off. If you don't have the benefit of air tools, you're going to want to remove this cap by using a screw driver or a coal chisel and hammer or a large set of pliers, and remove that cap to expose that center nut. The center hub nut is 36mm. If you have an impact wrench do it that way. If not, you'll need a large breaker bar or a pipe for some extra leverage, 36mm socket, hold the brakes and remove the center hub nut. Once the nut is off, just make sure that your axle is free. After you get that nut off, then you can loosen your lug nuts and raise and secure the vehicle and remove your wheel and tire.
By hand, or using the steering wheel, turn so you can access the back of the caliper. Check for any abnormal wear. Make sure that the inside and outside pads are worn about the same amount. Also, on the rotor, make sure there's no deep grooves or uneven wear. This can indicate other problems with your brake system. There are two 19mm bolts that hold the caliper on up there and there. We'll fast-forward as we use a 19mm socket and a ratchet to remove those bolts. Once you have the bolts off, just put the caliper up and out of the way. Use a screwdriver and pry the brake pads out. You can see the outer one comes out pretty easily. We had a little trouble with the inner one. We actually switched to a larger screwdriver. You can see, after a little more force it comes out. This brake pad sticking in there like that indicates there's a problem, and you want to do some clean-up and some lubrication to prevent this. There are two 18mm bolts that hold the caliper bracket to the steering knuckle there and there. You can see here, we give it a try with just the socket and ratchet, but then we use a pipe for some extra leverage and loosen up that bottom one. Then, we'll loosen up the top one, and remove the bolts and remove that caliper bracket.
There's a T-30 Torx screw that holds the rotor to the hub. We're just using a T-30 torx bit with a ratchet to remove that. Then, on this truck, the rotor actually pulls off quite easily. If your rotors don't come off easy, douse the back side and around the studs with penetrating oil. Then, use two M-10 bolts. There's two threaded holes in the rotor. You put the bolts in, and tighten them up, and they press the rotor off.
Three 15mm bolts hold the hub in. You see them there and there Another one on here. You want to spray down the back side with penetrating oil. When I say the back side, I mean here where you can see the arrows are pointing. You want to douse the back side of the bolts where they come through the hub flange. The arrows are pointing at two of them. There's obviously one more for the third bolt that's morphed with the front. Here, we're using a 15mm socket with a ratchet and a small extension. You can see, you need a little bit of extra leverage with the pipe and the bolts come off. With some extra leverage they come out fairly easily. We'll fast-forward as he does the other two. Note here, as we work on the last one, don't take this bolt all the way out yet. You'll want to use a hammer. You might have to use a lot of force to get the hub to break free. Do that before you take that last bolt all the way out. That way the hub doesn't go flying.
Secure your brake caliper. Now, you can disconnect your ABS harness. Pull the connection out of the clip to the frame. There's a little button that you press to disconnect. Then, pull the rest of the clips from the control arm and steering knuckle. Now that we've got the thing free and disconnected, we're just taking that last bolt out the rest of the way. Then pull the hub off. Then, that last clip is easier to get to what the hub and backing plate out of the way. Just use a pair of pliers, squeeze the pins on the back and release the clip.
Here, you can see the worn-out part on the left, the new part from 1A Auto. Same connector, everything is going to bolt in exactly the same. Wire brush the steering knuckle to clean it up some, and grease the hub flange. Make sure you put the hub through the backing plate, then onto the axle and steering knuckle. Press it on there as you start the bolts in from the back side. Just a few notes as we speed up: Make sure you start all three bolts in first. You don't want to tighten any one of them up until you get them all started. Then, tighten them up evenly and you will want to torque them. Torque the three bolts to 133 foot-pounds. Now, route the ABS harness back in place and reconnect it.
Free your caliper. Then, reinstall your rotor. We're just going to put a lug nut on there to hold it in place, and start putting our brakes back together. We'll continue to fast-forward as we put the caliper bracket in place, and start the two bolts that hold it in place, and then tighten them up preliminarily. Use a torque wrench to tighten those up to 100 foot pounds.
Use brake grease or white lithium grease, and grease the ends of the pads where they'll sit in the caliper brackets. You can use mineral spirits or brake cleaner, even gasoline, anything that evaporates quickly, and clean off your brakes before putting the rest of it back together.
Put the rear pad in first. Put one side in first, and then press the other side in. It should go in fairly easily The same thing for the front pad.Now, you need to reset the caliper piston. We've put the old inner brake pad back in there. Then, just use a large sea clamp. As we tighten it up, you'll see the pistons go back into the caliper. Now, put the caliper back in place. Sometimes, those slide bolts will get stuck a little bit, so you have to push them in a little bit to get the caliper to slide down in correctly. Put the caliper in place and start the two bolts on that hold it. We're going to torque these two bolts to 50 foot pounds.
Fast-forward as we remove that lug nut, and then put our wheel back on. Put the lug nuts back on by hand first, then tighten them up preliminarily. Put that center bolt back on and tighten it to 156 foot pounds. Torque the lug nuts to 100 to 110 foot pounds each using a crossing pattern. Then, that center cap does have a little tongue that goes into a groove on the wheel. Put that in place. Them, most important pump your brakes a few times. Make sure that the brakes are working good before road-testing your vehicle.
We hope this helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
Tools used
One of the first things you want to do is safely raise and support your vehicle by the frame so your suspension can hang. Once you've done that, take a small pry bar, and we're going to take off this center cap. If you were to spin it, you're going to see a little notch in the cap. Carefully slide this off of here. That exposes our 22-millimeter lug nuts. Remove all six. Remove your wheel. Now, let's remove our 21-millimeter nut. Let's just put that nut on just a couple threads. Now, we're going to take a hammer and we're going to hit right here on the knuckle. You want to be very careful for your brake rotor.
Now that the wheel's off, we have a clear view of where we're going to start working. We're going to disconnect the electrical. This is the ABS right here, and it's very delicate. I'm just going to come right up along here and you're going to see where it's supposed to be mounted to the frame. Should be pretty secure. This is missing about half of its clip, so I'll make sure I secure it in afterward. This purple right here is a little lock. It's holding it from coming separated. I like to just come right in between here, pop that up. Now, we'll separate this. Just take a peek. Make sure you don't see any funny colors. If you were to come right down along here, we're going to get this clip off of here as well. Just give it a little twist, lift it up, grab that ABS wire, carefully set it aside. The next thing we're going to do is remove this 10-millimeter headed bolt. The next thing we're going to do is remove the nut that holds the upper ball joint to the knuckle. Okay. That comes right off. I'm just going to go ahead and put it on there just a couple threads for now. Now, let's use a 36-millimeter socket to remove our axle nut. Behind there, there's a washer. Go ahead and remove that as well. Let's go ahead and blast this with some penetrant. The next thing we need to do is separate the axle from the bearing. I'm going to use this punch right here and go right in the center. You definitely don't want to use a hammer and potentially damage the threads.
The next thing we need to do is remove our mounting bolts that hold the caliper to the knuckle. Use an 18-millimeter. Carefully hang your caliper so it's putting no pressure on your flex hoses. So, now, let's just double-check to make sure this upper ball joint nut is still on there a few good threads. It hasn't loosened up on us. And then we'll move down here to the lower ball joint nut. Remove that as well. Take that and just put it on a couple threads. Okay. So, now, it's going to be time to separate the upper ball joint from the knuckle right here. Pay special attention to anything that's delicate that you don't want ruined, such as an ABS wire. Make sure that that's secure and safely out of the way. Go ahead and take your nice little hammer, and we're going to bonk right here on the knuckle itself. As you can tell, it's separated. We can move along. So, now, let's pushed down on this. Remove that nut. And carefully draw this down. Now, if you're worried the knuckle with the rotor is going to be too heavy, you can go ahead and use a Torx bit right here, remove that bolt, and take the rotor right off. The problem with removing it like that is you're going to have to clean up the mating surface between the wheel bearing and the rotor itself. So, now, I'm going to take my hammer again and I'm going to come right down here and we're going to hit right on the knuckle itself until this comes down. There we are. Carefully lift up. Remove the ball joint nut. Carefully lower this down. Remove your knuckle.
The next thing we're going to do is remove the bolts that hold the axle to the front differential. That's what the bolts look like. Remove them all. The next thing that we're going to have to do is remove the sway bar link. And you're going to have to do that on both sides of the vehicle. The reason for that is because we want to take the sway bar and swing it down.
There we are, friends. Now, it's going to be time for the install. Take your axle, slide it right in here. Gonna take one of my bolts. I like to use some red threadlocker. We'll call it your prerogative. Go ahead and start in the bolts. Don't tighten any of them down completely until you've started them all in. Okay. Let's snug them up. Like to go criss-cross. All right. Just double-check them all.
Now, it's gonna be time to install your sway bar link. To do that, you want to make sure you have the shaft facing up like this with one of your washers, a bushing with a little piton facing up towards the control arm. I'm going to put it through the lower control arm. Put another bushing with the piton facing down towards the control arm. Nice metal washer. Gonna put my spacer, another metal washer, another rubber bushing with the piton facing up towards the sway bar, just like this. Go ahead and pull this down. Rubber bushing with the piton facing the control arm or the sway bar, washer, and then the nut. Start in the other side the same way. So, now, we're just going to tighten this up. It's important to remember that you don't need to flatten out your bushings. You just kind of want to make them so they're completely touching up against the sway bar and completely touching the control arm itself. I can see it's touching. This can't move around. And I have approximately the width of my pinky. Do the same to the other side of the vehicle.
Let's just take some copper never-seize and go right along this splined area. You don't necessarily need to go down the threaded area though. Go ahead and take your knuckle. I'm going to start it on the axle a little bit and slide it over the lower ball joint stud. Lift it up, kink it to the side, and start on that lower ball joint nut. Wiggle the axle around. Should slide right in. Now, we're gonna use a bar. We're gonna pull this upper ball joint down into here. Get the nut, go ahead and start it on there. Just gonna take my bar and try to hold pressure on the lower ball joint to the knuckle. And then we're going to go ahead and try to tighten it up. So, now, you'd want to torque this to 37 foot-pounds. If for some reason you can't get your torque wrench in there like I can't, I would just continue with my wrench and make sure it's nice and tight. Beep. Perfect. Now, it's time to torque up that lower ball joint nut as well, torque it to 37 foot-pounds. Now what we want to do is make sure that our slot is lined up with the hole that goes through the ball joint stud so we can make sure we install our cotter pin. Go ahead and slide that through. If for some reason yours is not lined up when you torqued it, you need to continue tightening, not loosening, until it's lined up with the next available slot. Go ahead and peen that over and lock it in.
All right. So, now, it's gonna be time to get the caliper on here. Just go ahead and slide it right over the rotor. Now, we're going to line up those bolt holes. I like to use some red threadlocker on these bolts. Start them in there. Okay. Let's bottom them out. Now, let's go ahead and torque these to 148 foot-pounds. Now, we'll just go ahead and take that tie rod end, put it right through the knuckle. Take your nut, start it on there. We're going to bottom it out. Now, you're going to torque this to 44 foot-pounds. That's torqued. The next thing we're going to do is look to see if we can find the hole in the stud of the tie rod and match it with the next corresponding slot on the tie rod stud nut. This doesn't line up. So, what I need to do now is I need to continue tightening until it does. I can see right through. I'm going to grab that locking cotter pin and install it. Slide that right on through and just peen it over. There's no way that this nut can come loose. Now, it's going to be time to get the washer with the axle nut on there. Go ahead and slide the pair on. Go ahead and use your 36-millimeter socket, bottom it out, and then we'll torque it. Just going to put a little splash of never-seize in here. I've got my mounting bolt. Let's use our 10-millimeter and snug it up. Make sure it's fully secured. Make sure there's nothing binding your flex hose for your brakes are not twisted in any way.
Now, it's time to get our ABS wire resecured. Let's go ahead and put it in right here. Make sure it cannot come loose. If this can hang around and move around, it could potentially get damaged. We'll go ahead and connect this in now. Listen for a click. Give it a tug. Go ahead and slide in your lock. Now, we're going to take our mounting hardware here and just slide it right down and in. It's just a little push clip. Give it a nice tug. Make sure it's definitely secured.
So, of course, next, you'd want to go ahead and torque down this nut right here. And that's going to be torqued to 177 foot-pounds. You can do that several ways. If you were to just do it like this, what you're going to notice is it just keeps spinning. If that was the case, what you would do is you can use a pry bar coming straight through these lug studs like this down to the ground and so it holds it from spinning on you and then you would torque it. If you didn't want to go through the process doing that, you can go ahead and throw the wheel up on there and then go through the center hole, which is the way that I'm going to do it. We'll grab those lug nuts. Start them all on there. Let's bottom these out.
Now, we'll bring it down to the ground and we'll make it so the wheel is just barely touching enough so the wheel can't spin. It's time to torque down this axle nut, 177 foot-pounds like I said. Torqued. Now, let's do the lug nuts, 140 foot-pounds. Go criss-cross. Torqued. Now, it's going to be time to get the center cover on. Before you go ahead and pound it on there, just take a look at the back. You're going to see something that looks a lot like a valve stem, line it up. This can go pretty much just like this. Light bonk. And then, of course, clean up your wheel, make it look nice and pretty, and take it for a road test.
Tools used
Tools used
First, we're gonna take the center cap off. I'm gonna use a pry bar. If you don't wanna scratch the wheel, just use a rag. Wrap the pry bar around the rag and slide it out. Use a 22-millimeter socket to take the lug nuts off. Take the wheel off. I'm gonna take the brake caliper off with the bracket. I'm gonna use an 18-millimeter socket and take these bracket bolts out.
Slide this out. Use a brake caliper hanger. There you go. Make sure there's no tension on the brake hose. Now, I'm gonna take the screw out. I'm gonna use a T30 socket. Grab the rotor and slide it off. Take this nut off, use a 36-millimeter socket. And take the washer off. And just make sure that the axle is loose from the hub. You can tap that with a hammer. You should use a punch so that you don't ruin the splines on the axle.
Now, I'm gonna take this ABS harness off of here and use a trim tool, just get underneath here. Disconnect it here. There's a little retainer right there. You can use a pocket screwdriver. There we go. And just push it down, disconnect it. Then you can do the same right here. Slide that up. And then there's another retainer right here, and then just pry it out just like that. If you can squeeze those tabs with some needle-nose pliers, that works too. And that harness is good right there.
Now, the housing of the hub has three holes that are bolted on, so you need to take those bolts out. Those are on the backside of the knuckle. I'm gonna take these bolts out. I'm gonna use a 15-millimeter socket. And there's another one right here. Take those out. Okay. Then just grab the hub and slide it out. And if it doesn't come out that easy, you can take a hammer and just tap it from the backside or even a slide hammer and take the shield off. I'm just gonna take a wire brush to just clean up some of the rust and just use a little anti-seize so it doesn't seize up in there, doesn't rust up in there. Just use a little thin coat on the surface.
And take the dust shield. Make sure you have the ABS wire go through the dust shield first. Line that up and slide it in position. And take the three bolts and get those started. And then I'll take a torque wrench and torque these bolts to 133-foot pounds. There we go. Put the washer back on, put the nut on. Then tighten up the nut and torque it.
I'm gonna use a pry bar in between the lugs to prevent the hub from spinning and torque this nut to 177-foot pounds. It'll check that. There we go. And take the wiring harness and put this back in position, lock it in place. Looks good. Reconnect the connector and push down on the lock and push back in place. Looks good. Just take a little anti-seize and just put a thin coat on just to prevent future rust.
Take the rotor, line it up. Line the hole up with the threaded hole and put the screw in, and just snug it up. It's good. And take the caliper and slide it off the hanger, and slide it over the rotor. Take the bolts. You can put some thread-locking compound on the bolts and get these started. I'm gonna tighten these bolts to 148-foot pounds. Put the wheel back on and the lug nuts.
Now, I'm gonna torque these lug nuts to 140-foot pounds. I'm gonna do it in a cross pattern so it tightens the wheel down evenly. And I'll just go around again and double-check. You're good. Center cap, put it back on. Because we pulled the caliper off, there's gonna be a little air gap between the rotor and the brake pads so just pump the brakes. Make sure you get rid of that air gap and you should be good to go.
Tools used
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we're going to show you how to replace the outer tie rod on this 2011 Chevy Silverado 1500. It's the same part and process on most of the trucks and SUVs from GM, from 2007 to 2012. We show you this repair on the passenger's side but it's the same process on the driver's side. The items you'll need for this is a new outer tie rod from 1AAuto.com; jack and jack stands; flat blade screw driver; 7mm, 21mm, and 22mm socket and ratchet; a piece of pipe for leverage; a 15/16 inch wrench; a 16mm wrench; pliers; a hammer; tape measure; a grease gun; and a torque wrench.
The first thing that we need to do is remove the wheel. If you don't have an air wrench, you want to loosen up those lug nuts while the vehicle is still on the ground. Then, using your jack and jack stands, raise the vehicle, remove the lug nuts the rest of the way.
For a preliminary alignment, measure from a fixed point, which is usually the end of the boot, to the middle of your tie rod and record that measurement. Using a 15/16 wrench loosen up the lock nut for the tie rod. Now using a 21mm socket and ratchet, and piece of pipe for extra leverage if you need it, you want to loosen up the nut on the bottom of the outer tie rod. Then, using a hammer, just hit the knuckle there to loosen the outer tie rod. Then you can pull it up and out. Twist off the outer tie rod.
One the left, is the old outer tie rod; on the right, is the new one from 1A Auto. You'll see that they are identical and that they'll install exactly the same. The new tie rod installs the same way. Just put it on to the inner tie rod and twist it on. Twist it right up until you get to that locking nut and then back it off maybe a quarter of a turn. Then take the outer tie rod and push it back down into the knuckle there.
Now put your castle nut back on. Tighten it up until it's snug so that you can measure the tie rod again and make sure you got a good preliminary alignment. Now, just measure again from the same point and make sure that you get the center of the tie rod lined up in the same spot. If you need to adjust at all, just take the castle nut off, pull the tie rod up and out, and twist the tie rod either way to line it up correctly. This is a way to get a good preliminary alignment. We do recommend that you have your vehicle aligned after you do this repair.
Now put that grease fitting into your new outer tie rod and tighten it with a 7mm socket. Once you got it all set, torque the castle nut on, to 50-55 foot-pounds. Once that castle nut is tightened up into place, you want to slide the cotter pin in. Using a pair of pliers, bend the two ends outward to lock it. Hold the inner tie rod, with a 16mm, and then use your 15/16"� to tighten up the locking nut against the outer tie rod. Use a grease gun and put some grease into the tie rod. You will see the boot start expanding.
Fast forward here as we reinstall the wheel and tire. Put the lug nuts on by hand first and tighten them up preliminarily. Lower the vehicle onto the ground. You want to tighten the lug nuts to 100-110 foot-pounds, using a crossing pattern.Then put your cover back on.
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Tools used
One of the first things you wanna do is safely raise and support your vehicle by the frame so your suspension can hang. Once you've done that, take a small pry bar, and we're gonna take off this center cap. If you were to spin it, you're gonna see a little notch in the cap. Carefully slide this off of here. That exposes our 22-millimeter lug nuts. Remove all six. Remove your wheel.
Now that we have the wheel off, we have a clear view of our tie rod area. One of the first things we're gonna do is break free this jam nut right here. I like to use a nice, long pair of pliers like this. You could also use a wrench. Right on here like that. Once it turns like this, that means it broke free from the outer tie rod end, and now you'll be able to continue. Now let's remove our 21-millimeter nut. Let's just put that nut on, just a couple threads. Now we're gonna take a hammer, and we're gonna hit right here on the knuckle. You wanna be very careful for your brake rotor.
The next thing we're gonna do is remove our outer tie rod end, and as you screw if off, just count those threads. One, two, and so on. All right. Go ahead and write that number down. Now it's time to install the outer tie rod end. Make sure you put it in the same amount of threads that you did to take it off. One, two, three, and so on. Get that nut off of there. Okay. So now with it sitting as it is, you just wanna kind of go to the front of the vehicle and make sure that both wheels are aiming straight ahead at this point. Now that everything looks like it's going in a nice and straight line, go ahead and bring that jam nut so it's hitting up against the outer tie rod end. It's good right there. Let's go ahead and grab some pliers.
The next thing we're gonna do is take a nice wrench, 1-inch will work perfectly, and we're gonna grab right onto this area on the outer tie rod end, and then we'll take our nice, long pliers and go ahead and snug up this jam nut. Okay. That feels good. Go ahead and wiggle that tie rod around a little bit. Make sure it's facing straight up and down. This looks good. Now let's go ahead and snug this up. We're gonna bottom it out. Now you're gonna torque this to 44-foot-pounds. That's torqued. The next thing we're gonna do is look to see if we can find the hole in the stud of the tie rod, and match it with the next corresponding slot on the tie rod stud nut. This doesn't line up, so what I need to do now is I need to continue tightening until it does. I can see right through. I'm gonna grab that locking cotter pin and install it. Slide that right on through. Then just peen it over. There's no way that this nut can come loose.
We'll grab those lug nuts, start them all on there. Let's bottom these out. Now we'll bring it down to the ground, and we'll make it so the wheel is just barely touching enough so the wheel can't spin. Now let's do the lug nuts, 140-foot-pounds. Go crisscross. Torqued.
Now it's gonna be time to get the center cover on. Before you go ahead and pound it on there, just take a look at the back. You're gonna see something that looks a lot like a valve stem. Line it up. It's gonna go pretty much just like this. Light bonk. And then, of course, clean up your wheel, make it look nice and pretty, and take it for a road test.
