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1A Auto Lifetime Warranty
Frequently bought together
Part Details
TRQ suspension kits are manufactured using premium raw materials and coatings for extended service life. Each TRQ suspension component is designed to be a direct, maintenance-free replacement to the stock unit. To extend the life of your steering and suspension components, TRQ recommends replacing components in pairs, sets, or kits. All products are fit and road-tested in our Massachusetts R&D facility to ensure we deliver on our promise of Trusted Reliable Quality.
Product Features
Install Tip: When replacing steering components, have a professional alignment performed afterwards. This ensures proper tracking and even tire wear.
Our steering and suspension components are pre-greased and sealed for long life and do not require the extra maintenance typically required by greaseable versions.
Item Condition:
New
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Chromium (Hexavalent Compounds), which is known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
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Tools used
Hi, I’m Mike from 1A Auto. We’ve been selling auto parts for over 30 years!
With the vehicle on the ground, you use a breaker bar and a 22 millimeter socket to loosen the lug nuts. Raise and support your vehicle with a jack and jack stands. We're using our two post lift. Use the socket. Finish removing the lug nuts. There. It's seized to the hub.
Take a couple lug nuts. Just thread them on lightly. Use a dead blow or a rubber mallet and hit on the tire. It will knock it free. Lug nuts will keep the wheel from falling off. Now it's loose, so you finish taking the lug nuts off. Just going to support it so it doesn't fall. Top of the sway bar link bolts through the strut. I'm going to use a wire brush and just clean the threads off, so that when I remove the nut that's holding it, it'll spin easier. Knock off some of the dust. Knock off some of the dirt, rust, and then I can spray some rust penetrant on here too.
This nut is 18 millimeter. I'm going to use an eight millimeter socket on this breaker bar to counter hold the end of the sway bar link so it doesn't spin while I'm trying to remove it. Just kind of make sure it gets on here. It's a little rusty. Push it on. Brace that against the knuckle and remove this nut. Let's see. Go this way with it. Spray some more rust penetrant on here to help get rid of some of the rusty, chunky bits that are coming off. The nut is self-locking. It's not perfectly round on the end. That's what locks it. It's going to be hard to turn, but it should turn. Just keep doing this until you thread it all the way off.
If you're replacing the strut, make sure you have a new sway bar link on hand because sometimes they break and they'll need to be replaced. As it gets towards the end and the locking part is coming off the threads, it should get looser and easier to turn. Let's see. Take this off now. Just going to spin it off with my fingers. Let's see, it's stopping on that socket. It got stuck. Just give it a couple turns. The socket's loose. Now it'll just come off with my fingers. Do the same for the inside one, and do the same for the lower one. It's just facing away and towards the inside, so you really can't see it directly. You can kind of see it from the side. I'm just cleaning off the threads. Spray it with some rust penetrant, and the breaker bar with the eight millimeter socket. Now it's loose. Just thread it off by hand, and pull it out of the sway bar and out of the wheel well.
This is the original sway bar link from our vehicle. Brand new one from 1AAuto.com. These are left and right. They are identical. They can be installed on either side. The new one from 1A Auto has a new nut. Instead of counter holding the end to tighten it, you're going to counter hold here. These will install perfectly and work great for you. Remove the nut and install it in the same way the original was. This one was facing in. The joint was on the outside part. Go through the sway bar. Thread the nut on for now. Tighten them afterwards. It'll get to the locking part of it. It's not perfectly round. That's how it locks. You'll feel like a tight. You can just stop. Take this top one off. It goes through the back of the strut. Just go underneath the ABS wire. You may have to bend them a little bit, which they do flex. Just install the nut and then tighten them down.
The backside of this is a six point. It looks like it would be a nut. It fits 18 millimeter. You put it on there to counter hold it. We use an 18 millimeter socket to drive this in. Just tighten this down. This will be the same for both of these, both the top and the bottom. I'll just get it tight, and I'll come back and torque it.
I'm going to do the same for the other side and install the lower one. There's not a lot of clearance here. I'm going to counter hold it with the long 18 millimeter on the hex drive that's on there, and then I'm going to use a short 18 millimeter to tighten it. Just repeat this until it's tight. Torque on the bottom sway bar end is 57 foot-pounds. Counter hold it. The torque for the top one is 55. There we are. Install the lug nuts by hand. I'm just going to use the socket. Thread these down. We will re-torque them with the vehicle on the ground. Torque the lug nuts in a cross pattern to 140 foot-pounds.
Thanks for watching. Visit us at 1AAuto.com for quality auto parts, fast and free shipping, and the best customer service in the industry.
Tools used
Now, you can take the lug nuts off. Use a 22-millimeter socket, so you can get the wheel off. Grab the wheel, slide it off. I'm gonna loosen up the jam nut. Just take a 15/16 wrench and loosen it up. That's good. I'm just gonna take a little rust penetrant, just spray down the tie rod stud. That'll make it a little easier to take that nut off. I'm just gonna take a pry bar, and just pry below the strut, and prying down on the tie rod to help the stud from spinning. And then use a 21-millimeter socket to take that nut off. Now, just take a hammer and hit on the bottom of the stud going up. We take this off, you're gonna want to count the threads, so, 1, 2, 3, 17, 17, and just write that number down somewhere. That's gonna make it easier for when you put it back together to get it close. So that when you go to have the alignment done, it's actually a little bit closer than if you didn't count the threads. We're gonna take some locking pliers, and just lock them onto the inner tie rod, and take a 24-millimeter socket, and take this nut off. Now, you can take this clamp off. The boot, use some hose clamp pliers or just some regular pliers, and just slide that off.
On the backside of this boot there is a clamp. If you just take a long pick and find where the clamp is put together or where it's pinched together, you can loosen up that pinched part, just spread it apart a little bit, and you might be able to slide the boot off. And most of the time you have to replace these clamps. But sometimes if you don't damage them too bad, you can reuse them. And there we go, that's slid off. If you're doing the right side, you can turn the steering wheel all the way to the left, that's gonna push this out really far. If you're doing the other side, just do the opposite, and try to get some locking pliers as close to the tie rod as possible. That's good. This is just gonna prevent the shaft from spinning and damaging any internal components in the steering rack itself. Then take a tie rod remover tool, get the correct adapter that fits. Slide this in position. All right, and loosen up the tie rod. Hold the locking pliers, there we go. Take your tool out. I'm just doing this by hand. There you go. Take the new tie rod in, inner tie rod in, and just apply a little bit of thread lock adhesive. And you can clean these threads out on the rack, use a little brake parts cleaner and a rag, just wipe that out, and thread this in. Now, you can put the adapter on and torque this to 74 foot-pounds. Now I'm gonna put the boot on. Now, my clamp is still reusable, so leave that on. If not, you could always use a wire tie if you have to. Now to tighten that clamp, I have these special pliers to tighten that. So just be creative on how to get this around here. You may have to take a heat shield off if you wanna get it from underneath, or you can try to get it in from up here. And if you don't have those pliers and can't access that, sometimes just carefully using some side cutters. You don't want to cut it, but you can pinch it just enough to lock it on there. Just make sure it doesn't twist, and that's good. Take that outer hose clamp or boot clamp, use some hose clamp pliers, and slide it back on. That's good. And put the jam nut back on. Now take the outer tie rod in, and count the threads when you go on, 1, 2, 17. And I'll just move the jam nut little closer, and take the stud, and line it up with the knuckle. Take the nut, the nut on. Now, take a pry bar, go under the strut, slide this down. And then I'm gonna torque this nut to 22 foot-pounds. And if you have an angled meter, you're gonna want to torque this an additional 120 degrees. If you don't, just do the best you can. That's 90, then I'll go another 30 degrees. I'm just estimating. That's about right, and we can tighten up the jam nut. If you have the ability to torque this, you can torque it to 55 foot-pounds. Put the wheel back on. I'm gonna tighten the lug nuts down, torque them to 140 foot-pounds in a cross pattern, so that it tightens the wheel down evenly. Go around again just to double check.
Tools used
Tools used
Now, you can take the lug nuts off. Use the 22-millimeter socket, so you can get the wheel off. Grab the wheel, slide it off. I'm gonna loosen up the jam nut. Just take a 15/16 wrench and loosen it up. That's good. I'm just gonna take a little rust penetrant, just spray down the tie rod stud. That'll make it a little easier to take that nut off. I'm just gonna take a pry bar, and just pry below the strut, and prying down on the tie rod to help the stud from spinning. And then use a 21-millimeter socket, take that nut off. Now, just take a hammer and hit on the bottom of the stud, going up. When you take this off, you're gonna want to count the threads, so, 1, 2, 3...17, 17, and just write that number down somewhere.
That's gonna make it easier for when you put it back together to get it close so that when you go to have the alignment done, it's actually a little bit closer than if you didn't count the threads. Now, take the outer tie rod end and count the threads when you go on. 1, 2...17. And I'll just move the jam nut a little closer and take the stud and line it up with the nut hole.
Take the nut, put the nut on. Now I'll take a pry bar, go under the strut, slide this down. And then I'm gonna torque this nut to 22 foot-pounds. And if you have angle meter, you're gonna want to torque this an additional 120 degrees. If you don't, just do the best you can. That's 90, then I'll go another 30 degrees. I'm just estimating; that's about right. And we can tighten up the jam nut. If you have the ability to torque this, you can torque it to 55 foot-pounds. Now, put the wheel back on.
Now I'm gonna tighten the lug nuts down, torque them to 140 foot-pounds in a cross pattern so that it tightens the wheel down evenly. Go around again. Double check.
Tools used
I'm gonna take a 22-millimeter socket and remove these lug nuts on the wheel. Now, I'm gonna remove the wheel. We're gonna take this nut off first. I'm using locking pliers behind just to hold the stud from spinning.
Now, what you could do is take an 18-millimeter wrench and then a socket on the end of this, and loosen it up that way. But this is a lot easier using the 18-millimeter socket. I might have to tighten this up a little more, and take that nut off. Now, that that's separated. I also separated the other side and that makes it easier, so, it's a good idea to do them both in pairs.
And then you can slide this down, and then you can gain access to this nut. We'll do the same on this one. Use some locking pliers, hold the stud from spinning, 18-millimeter socket, it comes right off.
Take the new link and slide it up. You're going to slide the stud towards the middle of the vehicle, and put the nut on using an 18-millimeter wrench then a 18-millimeter socket. Torque this down first. Torque this nut to 55 foot-pounds.
Slide that into the bottom of the strut. Take the nut, put that on. Take an 18-millimeter wrench on the inside, 18-millimeter socket, tighten this up. And torque this to 59 foot-pounds.
All right. Now I'm gonna put the tire back on, and the put the lug nuts on. Now, you're gonna tighten the lug nuts to 140 foot-pounds in a cross pattern to tighten the wheel down evenly. I'll just go round again to double-check.
Tools used
I'm gonna remove the wheel. Use a 22-millimeter socket, and pull the wheel off. I'm just gonna use a little rust penetrant. There's a little bit of rust on the stud. Take an 18-millimeter wrench, and you can loosen up the nut. And the stud is gonna spin, so you want to use an 8-millimeter socket. Put it on the stud.
You could try to loosen this up with an impact, but the stud is just gonna spin. And take the nut off. Now you can take the stud out, just like that. You can take this nut off the same way you took the other one off, if you use a 18-millimeter wrench and a 8-millimeter socket, or you can take some locking pliers, get on the back side, and use an 18-millimeter socket. Try to get it off that way. Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't.
Now take the new link, slide it back in position. Put the nut on. And for the stud on this new link, we have a, there's actually a spot where you can put a wrench, so you can use an 18-millimeter wrench, 18-millimeter socket. I'm gonna snug this up first. And I'm gonna torque this nut to 55 foot-pounds. And slide the sway bar up. Slide the link stud through this bracket on the strut. Get the nut started, then use an 18-millimeter wrench, 18-millimeter socket. Tighten this up. And torque this nut to 59 foot-pounds. And put the tire on.
Now I'm gonna torque these lug nuts to 140 foot-pounds, in a cross pattern or a star pattern, to tighten the wheel down evenly. Now go around again. Just double check.
