Kit Includes: (2) Front Lower Ball Joints (2) Front Outer Tie Rods (2) Front Upper Ball Joints (2) Front Shock & Spring Assemblies
Specification
Steering / Suspension Option
with 16mm Thread Tie Rods
Location
Front
TRQ suspension kits are manufactured using premium raw materials and coatings for extended service life. Each TRQ suspension component is designed to be a direct, maintenance-free replacement to the stock unit. To extend the life of your steering and suspension components, TRQ recommends replacing components in pairs, sets, or kits. All products are fit and road-tested in our Massachusetts R&D facility to ensure we deliver on our promise of Trusted Reliable Quality.
Product Features
Application Specific Design: No modifications necessary
Anti-Corrosion Coated: Enhanced surface life
Pre-greased: No additional maintenance required
Kitted for Restored Performance: Improved road-feel and handling
Replacing struts used to require specialized tools to compress, remove, and transfer the old spring and mount. Our Pre-assembled, complete strut & spring assemblies come with all new parts and make the job much quicker and easier for the do-it-yourself mechanic.
Strut & spring assembly contains:
Upper Strut Mount
Strut Bearing
Coil Spring
Boot & Bumper Kit
Gas-charged Strut
Install Tip: When replacing steering components, have a professional alignment performed afterwards. This ensures proper tracking and even tire wear.
Our steering and suspension components are pre-greased and sealed for long life and do not require the extra maintenance typically required by greaseable versions.
Item Condition:New
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Chromium (Hexavalent Compounds), which is known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
FREE Shipping is standard on orders shipped to the lower 48 States (Contiguous United States). Standard shipping charges apply to Hawaii and Alaska.
Shipping is not available to a P.O. Box, APO/FPO/DPO addresses, US Territories, or Canada for this item.
Expedited is available on checkout to the United States, excluding Alaska, Hawaii.
Final shipping costs are available at checkout.
How to Replace Ball Joint 2003-06 GMC Envoy XL
How to Replace Front Shock and Spring Assembly 2002-09 GMC Envoy
How to Replace Front Passenger Side Upper Ball Joint 2002-2007 Chevrolet Trailblazer
How to Replace Front Driver Side Lower Ball Joint 2002-2009 Chevrolet Trailblazer
Created on:
Tools used
Razor Blade / Gasket Scraper
15mm Wrench
Torque Wrench
Hammer
15mm Socket
Ball Joint Press
Rust Penetrant
Pry Bar
Jack Stands
19mm Socket
10mm Wrench
Grease Gun
Bearing Grease
Flat Blade Screwdriver
Wire Ties
10mm Socket
Ratchet
Floor Jack
Wire Cutters
1. Removing the Wheel
Pry off the center cap with a flat blade screwdriver
Loosen the lug nuts with the vehicle on the ground
Raise the vehicle with a floor jack
Secure the vehicle on jack stands
Remove the lug nuts
Pull off the wheel
2. Removing the Ball Joint
Separate the axle from its housing with a pry bar and a hammer
Unclip the brake line from its clips
Remove the ball joint retaining ring with a hammer and punch
Remove two 10mm bolts from the steering knuckle bracket
Apply penetrating oil to the control arm nut and bolt
Remove the 15mm nut and bolt from the control arm
Strike the control arm with a hammer to loosen it
Pull the steering knuckle forward
Support the wheel knuckle with wire ties
Cut off the ball joint boot with a razor
Fit a ball joint press to the ball joint
Tighten the press to press out the ball joint
Remove the ball joint press
Tap out the ball joint with a hammer
3. Installing the New Ball Joint
Push the new ball joint into place
Fit the ball joint press onto the ball joint
Tighten the ball joint press to press in the ball joint
Tap the ball joint in with a hammer
Tap the snap ring into place with a hammer and punch
If you are replacing the snap ring, put the new ring on with snap ring pliers
Push the steering knuckle into place
Push the control arm onto the ball joint
Tap the control arm onto the ball joint with a hammer
Start the 15mm nut and bolt into the control arm
Remove the wire ties from the steering knuckle
Push the axle into its housing
Tighten the 15mm nut to 50 foot-pounds of torque
Fasten the grease fitting onto the ball joint with a 10mm wrench
Add grease to the ball joint with a grease gun
Insert the two 10mm bolts into the steering knuckle bracket
Clip the brake line into place
4. Reattaching the Wheel
Slide the wheel into place
Start the lug nuts by hand
Tighten the lug nuts preliminarily
Lower the vehicle to the ground
Tighten the lug nuts to 100 foot-pounds in a crossing or star pattern
Reattach the center cap
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we're going to show you how to replace an upper ball joint on this 2003 GMC Envoy XL and we show you on the passenger's side but the driver's side is the same procedure. The items you'll need for this are a new upper ball joint from 1AAuto.com; flat blade screwdriver; 10, 15, and 19 millimeter socket and ratchet; 15 millimeter wrench; hammer; punch; snap ring pliers, depending on the condition of your old ring around your ball joint; razor; ball joint press; jack and jack stands; and a torque wrench.
Start off by removing your wheel and tire. Pry off the cap first. If you don't have the benefit of air tools, you want to loosen the lug nuts then raise and secure the vehicle on jack stands and remove the lug nuts that way. We have air tools so we put the vehicle up on jack and jack stands to remove the lug nuts and remove the wheel and tire.
Using a pry bar or a large flat blade screwdriver, just insert it in between the axle and the axle housing and just hammer it to separate the axle. Now, remove this clip here, and ours is broken so we're just going to use some wire cutters to remove the wire tie, but normally you just pry the clip open with the flat blade screwdriver. There's a rotating ring that holds the ball joint in. You want to use a punch and a hammer and you can see we do it before we release the upper control arm. You want to get that retaining ring out. Next, remove these two 10 millimeter bolts. We'll fast forward as Mike does that. Just pull the wheel knuckle forward and just make sure your axle pulls free and then support your wheel knuckle with wire ties or string just so that it's not being supported by those harnesses. We're just going to cut off this boot around the ball joint.
With this little tool, we'll be able to press on the hard part of the ball joint and we actually have the augment ours with another little attachment. Then this cup goes around the outside of the ball joint there. Put the press on here. Now, the press will be pushing around the edge of the ball joint and down into the cup and the cup is holding. It's not hitting the ball joint. It's holding around the steering knuckle. It's very important that you line everything up straight. Go nice and slow. You can see the ball joint has been pushed down and out.
Take your new ball joint and push it up into place. Push that up in. You need a sleeve to go up on top and this can just contact right against the bottom of your ball joint. We use the press to push the ball joint up and in and sometimes it helps to just use a hammer. You put a lot of pressure on with the press then use the hammer to get the ball joint, and seed it all the way in. If your old ring is still in good condition, just hit it back into place. Otherwise, use snap ring pliers and put the new snap ring into place.
Push the wheel knuckle back and then just push your upper control arm down on to the ball joint and hammer it down the rest of the way and just slide that bolt through. Replace the nut and make sure you remove your wire ties or string. Push the axle back into place. We'll fast forward as Mike tightens this up. Torque this to 50 foot-pounds. Twist the grease fitting into place and tighten it up with a 10 millimeter wrench. If you have a grease gun, just top it off. Then, just put the bolts back into place and re-clip your harness. Our clip is broken so we're just going to use a wire tie and then just tighten up those two 10 millimeter bolts.
Replace your wheel and replace the lug nuts and tighten them up preliminarily. Lower the vehicle, tighten the rest of the way and torque each of them to a hundred foot-pounds in a crossing pattern. Once you have them torqued, replace you cap then you should be all set.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
Tools used
24mm Socket
Torque Wrench
Hammer
Rust Penetrant
18mm Wrench
Pry Bar
18mm Socket
19mm Socket
Safety Glasses
Gloves
Wheel Chocks
Center Punch
Floor Jack
Okay, friends. One of the first things we need to do to start this job is to safely raise and support the vehicle. I like to raise it directly on the frame. Once you have the wheel off the ground, we're going to remove our center cover. That exposes our 19-millimeter lug nuts. Remove them all, and then remove the wheel. Now that we have the wheel off of here, we have a clear view of our front strut. Let's start off by spraying everything that's going to need to come apart with some penetrant. Right down here, let's go ahead and get a little bit right in there for the threads.
Up along this area, go ahead and spray that bolt. And then, of course, this area up top, you're going to see right along the top of this strut tower there's two studs that come up. We're going to spray those so the nuts will come off. Right down this side too. Use your 24-millimeter socket to remove this nut. The next thing we need to do is separate this lower portion from the stud right here. To do that, you can use a punch with a hammer and try to come from this side and drive it out towards the front or, of course, if you have an air chisel like I do. So that broke free. That's perfect.
The next thing we need to do is get up top underneath the hood. So now under the hood, as you can tell, we can see the nuts on the top of those struts. We're not going to touch the center one. Do not touch that. Do this one right here and that one over there. These are 18-millimeter. Here's one nut. I'm just going to start it on there just a couple of threads. Remove the other one. All right. There's that one. Get the other one off. Let's go back into the wheel well. Let's go ahead and grab onto that. Pull it aside and then carefully drop it down and remove it from the vehicle.
Now that we have this out of the vehicle, we're going to go ahead and hold onto the bolt side of this with our 18-millimeter and then remove the nut side also with an 18-millimeter. Now I'm going to come from the other side with my air gun here or use whatever you want to remove this, but spin it out. Go ahead and put our nut on there just a little bit so we don't damage the threads and then give it a couple of loving bonks. That's moving right along. Take it right out. Something that we want to pay attention to before we go too much further is the orientation of this piece right here.
If you were to look at it, you're going to see it would run directly along here, and it's going to line up with one of the studs. It doesn't matter which one, just make sure it does line up when you come time to install. Now it's going to be time to go ahead and try to get this off of here. Something to pay attention to is the fact that we're going to have to hit it with a hammer. We're going to be trying to drive it off of the strut itself. As it starts coming off, there's also the possibility that it could come flying off and potentially hurt you.
Obviously, nobody wants you to get hurt. So I just want to mention, be careful for where this goes when it comes off. Grab your hammer or whatever you might have and go ahead and give it a couple of bonks. You might happen to notice that it just doesn't want to come off of there. If that's the case, go ahead and hit it with some more penetrant. Once you have a good amount of penetrant in there, go ahead and use a nice chisel or a punch, whatever you have that's going to be able to spread these ears a little bit.
As we spread these, something to pay attention to is you don't want to keep spreading them until the point where they start to crack or get brittle. You definitely don't want to damage this piece in any way. As I just spreaded those ears, what I saw was this started to let go. I'm going to give it a little wiggle. This is great. Just try to work that penetrant in there. So we got our new strut here. One of the first things we need to do to get this into the vehicle is, of course, get that bottom piece on there. To do that we're going to put a nice piece of wood on the floor, and we're going to turn this upside down.
I'm going to rest it just like this. Pay attention to where those studs are. Okay? Because that was important. I mentioned it before. When we go to install this, we want this arm that's coming out going in a straight line. You can see there's a dot, a dot, a stud. Try to make it a nice straight line. If you put it like this, obviously, it's going to cause an issue when it comes time to install. So we'll get it as close as possible. Now that we've got that nice and covered, let's go ahead and get this lined up straight as possible here. Oh, it looks pretty great.
Give it a couple of loving bonks. Now, as I'm doing this, you can tell the reason why I wanted to use wood on the bottom there. We've got all those studs coming down, and the last thing I want to do is mess anything up. As we bring this down, you're going to want to keep going until it bottoms out on this ridge right here. Looks like it's pretty much there. Double-check it all the way around just to make sure it's completely seated. So now let's take our unit. We're going to slide it right in, get it up into those, and then slide it on this stud down here.
Everything should line up perfectly. If it doesn't, and for some reason, you can't get it in here or you can't line up the top, obviously, the issue is right here. You just didn't line it up properly. I usually like to put a tiny bit of threadlocker on this right here, and then we'll get the nut on. We'll bottom it out. Let's go ahead and torque this to 81 foot-pounds as well. It's going to be time to put in the lower bolt for the strut here. Goes through from the inside or towards the inside of the vehicle here and then going out. Let's go ahead and bottom this out, and then we'll torque it to manufacturer's specifications.
Now we're going to torque this to 81 foot-pounds. There we are. Let's take our two upper mounting nuts. We'll get those on. We'll bottom them out, and then we'll torque them to manufacturer's specifications as well. Torque these to 33 foot-pounds. It's always a great idea to double-check everything that you removed and replaced. Just make sure everything's secure and good to go. Once you've done that, let's go ahead and get the wheel up on here. Bring the vehicle down so the tire's just barely touching the ground so it can't spin. And then torque the wheels in a criss-cross manner to 103 foot-pounds.
Now it's going to be time to get our center cover on here. If you were to turn it around, you might see something that looks a lot like a valve stem. Line it up with your valve stem, and then go ahead and pop it on there.
Tools used
13mm Socket
15mm Wrench
Torque Wrench
Hammer
Ball Joint Press
15mm Socket
Jack Stands
19mm Socket
10mm Wrench
3/8 Inch Drive Ratchet
Trim Tool Set
Safety Glasses
1/4 Inch Ratchet
Gloves
Punch
Snap Ring Pliers
1/2 Inch Ratchet
Wheel Chocks
Floor Jack
Wire Brush
10mm Hex Socket
36mm Socket
13mm Wrench
Tools used
Hammer
Pry Bar
Jack Stands
10mm Wrench
3/8 Inch Drive Ratchet
7mm Allen Wrench
Pickle Fork
1/4 Inch Ratchet
Punch
Pole Jack
Snap Ring Pliers
Brake Caliper Hanger
Wheel Chocks
Floor Jack
10mm Hex Socket
15mm Wrench
Torque Wrench
15mm Socket
18mm Socket
19mm Socket
Safety Glasses
21mm Socket
21mm wrench
Gloves
1/2 Inch Ratchet
7mm Socket
10mm Socket
36mm Socket
22mm Socket
PSA58800
In Stock
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S
July 24, 2017
The parts Good quality and easy to install. 1A videos are really helpful. I'm definitely going to use 1A again
best prices
alfonso
August 1, 2017
fast delivered i would recomended 1aauto nice customer services thanks i save money for others thinks
Great price and Quality Parts.
M
August 7, 2017
Beats the price of the competition by half. Won't buy parts anywhere else.
B
March 22, 2018
Great product,timely delivery,great prices, over all wonderful buying experience
Great service everytime
Tim
May 30, 2018
Orders always received within 3 business days and great prices for good quality parts. Very pleased everytime over the past few years.
Indirect patt
G
August 11, 2018
I ordered a front end suspension kit for my car and after I got the car to the shop only to discover they sent me an incorrect mail joint for my car. I had to go to the local shop and purchase one since I had already scheduled time with the shop and mechanic. Very disappointing!
Front end parts 03 Trailblazer
J
October 22, 2019
Everything fit perfectly fast shipping could not be more pleased highly recommend 1aauto.com
Steering Suspension overhaul
Anthony
August 11, 2020
Parts arrived in a timely manner. Great quality everything fit very well. I will definitely recommend to family and friends.
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