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Okay. What's up guys? I'm Andy from 1A Auto. In this video, I'm going to show you how to replace the spark plugs in this 2013 Cadillac SRX. If you need these parts or other parts for your vehicle, click the link in the description, head over to 1AAuto.com.
When doing this job, it's a good idea to disconnect the battery. The battery is located under here. You want to push down on these little lock tabs. There's two on this side and two on the other side and you can lift this up. Just slide this out of the way. Now, the negative terminals on this side. We're going to use a 10mm wrench to loosen this up. Wiggle it and set it aside. I can either leave that hung over like that or just leave that on the side like that.
There's a screw right here. I'm going to use a T30 socket, extension, and a ratchet. Take that screw up. Pull that out. I'm going to take this oil fill cap off. Set that aside. Grab this cover and just pull it up. So I don't drop anything down into the oil, just put the cap back on. There's a bolt right here. I'm going to use a 10mm socket and a electric ratchet. If you don't have an electric one, you can use a regular ratchet. Oops, that's tightening. I want to loosen it. That's good. The bolt's going to stay. It's a caged bolt, so we'll leave that there.
Next thing, we I'm going to just slide this off right here, this hose, set that aside. I want to loosen up this one clamp right here. I can use a straight blade screwdriver or an 8mm socket, extension, and ratchet. Loosen this up here. Then there's another clamp right here. I'm going to do the same. With that loose I can just grab the snorkel right here. Then on the back side, pull it up. There's a little grommet on the backside here and just pull up on that just like that. Slide this whole snorkel out.
We'll disconnect this connector right here is a little lock. Pull that lock and then push down on the tab. Disconnect that connector. Then, there's a little retainer right here. Just slide that out of the way. On the map sensor, we're going to do the same. Push down. Disconnect the connector. I'm going to disconnect this hose. This hose goes to the evap purge valve, so just push down on this lock. Well, you're actually pushing up. Slide the hose out. It's a little bit tricky. Disconnect that and slide that out of the way. Just put that over there.
In the back of the purge valve, there's a connector. There is a little lock tab on the connector. You're going to pull that lock tab out. This little red thing here. I'm trying to see if this one is broken. Yep. This one has a piece that's broken. You can normally take a right angle pick. Get in here. You should be able to pull this lock tab back and then you push down on the button, disconnect the connector.
You need to remove this bolt right here. It's attached to a bracket that is attached to the power steering hose in the back here. Just use a 10mm socket and a ratchet. Remove that. Pull that out, just set that aside. All right, there's a hose right here that needs to be disconnected. I'm going to disconnect this on the valve cover. There's a little tab you slide over and then you slide it up. I'll show you what that tab looks like. Right here, you're just going to push on that tab and that will slide up. You don't necessarily have to take this off, you could just leave it connected to the intake, but this is how that tab works. You're just pushing that little lock and slide it up. To get this off, you just twist it to the side and lift it up, but you don't have to take that off.
All right, now I want to remove this vacuum hose that goes to the brake booster. I'm going to use some hose clamp pliers to squeeze this clamp. You could use some needle nose pliers, right angle needle nose pliers would be better. You can use these. Just slide that right there. Squeeze that. Move that to the side. I'm just going to use a right angle pick to get underneath the hose, loosen it up and wiggle the hose. There we go pull that off.
We need to remove this wire right here. There's some retainers. I'm just going to use a trim tool, pop this routine or off over here. Get that out. Right here. Right here. Then also this cover, I'm going to take this cover off. Just take this little push pin off, just like that.
I'm going to take this bolt out right here. I'm just going to use a 10mm socket, extension, and a electric ratchet. You can use a regular ratchet. Pull this off, just move it out of my way. I don't necessarily have to take this off, but I needed it out of the way for that, so I'll just pull it off completely. Or not. There we go. Slide that out of the way.
Remove these two bolts. I'm going to use a 10mm socket and a ratchet. Pull those out. Keep in mind which one goes where. The longer one goes on this side, the shorter one goes over here. You could disconnect this coolant hose. We're going to try to not. I'd rather not have to disconnect it cause you could lose a little bit of coolant and have to top it off afterwards. We'll just push that over there. Then we're going to take these six intake bolts out. I'm just going to use a 13mm socket, extension, and a ratchet.
Double check. Make sure those are all loose. You can slide them out if you want, you can leave them in. Probably easier to just slide them out. These should be all the same size. Let me double check. Yup. They're all the same size. Now I can grab the intake, slide it up, slide it underneath this hose, just like that. Now if you had trouble sliding it out from there, disconnect that coolant hose, but just easier to leave it connected.
Now, I'm going to remove this gasket. Just slide it up. Just try not to drop any of the dirt in there. We're just going to cover this up with some rags. We don't want anything dropping in there. You can put the rags in like that if you prefer. You can just cover the whole thing up just so if you drop a bolt, it won't go in there.
Whether you're doing spark plugs or coils, you needed to remove that intake plenum to access the back coils and plugs. We did that first before we proceeded with this job.
Disconnect the connector right here. I want to use a right angle pick. Pull out that lock a little bit and then push down on the tab. Slide the connector out me. I'm going to us a 10mm socket and ratchet. Remove this bolt. Slide that bolt out. Grab the coil. You can just wiggle it to the side a little bit and pull it up.
Before I remove the spark plug, what I want to do is take some compressed air, just blow it down there, get any of the dirt out of there. Now if there's oil in that valley, then a lot of times the head itself is porous and it causes this spark plug tube to leak and these tubes are not replaceable, so you might have a problem there. Also, check the valve cover seal right here. If oil gets down in there from that, so that could cause a misfire, so keep that in mind.
Now I'm going to pull the spark plug out. You want to use the spark plug socket. This one actually has a magnet. Now we sell this socket at dot com this is a 5/8 in with a magnet on it and an extension. Use a ratchet and loosen it up. You want to use a hand ratchet when you do this, you don't want to use an electric ratchet. It's just better to do it by hand. Pull the plug out.
Here's the old part. Here's the new spark plug from 1AAuto.com. If you compare them, they're the same, same length. The important thing is to make sure the threads are the same length. You don't want to put the wrong threads in. Same AC Delco part number. Get yours at 1AAuto.com and you'll be ready to rock and roll.
These spark plugs come pre-gapped, so you do not have to get them. Take the spark plug, we'll install it in our spark plug socket with the magnet. A lot of times he won't have a magnet there, you'll just have a rubber grommet that'll hold it in place. Slide this back down the tube. Just snug it up by hand. Now I'm going to take a torque wrench and I'm going to torque the spark plug to 13 foot pounds.
Before I install the coil, I can just take a little dielectric grease, make sure it's the appropriate type of dielectric grease made for ignition systems. Then we install the coil. Slide it in position. Get the screw started. Push it down. Tighten down the screw. Then with a 10mm socket and a torque wrench, I'm going to tighten this down to 89 inch pounds. Make sure you're on inch pounds, not foot pounds. Then I can plug this in, lock it in place. Then I'm going to do the same procedure for the other ones.
You can take these rags off there. Just take some rags and just clean off any of the gasket area. You don't want any dirt in that area. You can use a little brake parts cleaner if it's really dirty, this isn't too bad. What I like to do is just take some compressed air. Just makes sure you can look down in the valleys and see if there's anything in there, but I just spray it out just to make sure.
Take the new gasket. There is some pins on the back side of the gasket. It should line up and these cone like things come straight up, so that looks good. Now on the backside of the plenum, just take a rag and wipe some of this oil away. Now if you were chasing a intake leak, if you had a vacuum leak that you were trying to find, you may also need to replace the gaskets under here. You just take these bolts out right there. Take that off place those gaskets. But a lot of times it's the lower gasket.
Just take the intake, just slide these wires out of your way. I'm just going to raise up on this coolant hose. If you struggle with it, just take it off. It's lined up that. You can check underneath to make sure everything's lined up down below. It looks good. Take the intake bolts, get these all started. Now, I'm just going to take a 13mm socket, extension, and a electric ratchet. You can use just a regular ratchet if you don't have an electric one. I'm just going to snug these all up and then I'm going to torque them after.
Now I'm gonna use the torque wrench with a 13mm socket. I have to torque these down in a specific order to 18 foot pounds. That's number one. This is number two. Number three is right here. Number four over here. Number five and number six. Now once I do that, I have to go back through one more time and just double check them in the same order. It's good.
All right, I'm going to put this insulation back in position. Sometimes this is a little tricky to get on. All right. The reason for this insulation is actually because the high pressure pump is very noisy, so that covers up the noise or helps cover up some of the noise and the tapping sound. Kind of sounds like a lifter, but it's really just the high pressure pump. There we go. Put the bolts back in there. Take the push pin. Slide the push pin back in. Then I'll snug up that bolt. I'm just gonna use a 10mm socket, extension, and a electric ratchet. Snug it up. Reattach this wiring harness. It's going to get pushed through right here, and right here, and this back one, this little retainer right there. Push that on. We'll take this wire connector, connect the map sensor, lock it in place. Now I'm going to hook this up before I hook up with that brake booster. Just push this down, give it a twist, and then reattach it to the back valve cover. Lock it in place. Just move the wire out of the way. That's good.
Now we can secure the brake booster vacuum hose right there. Now I'll use these hose clamp pliers. You can use needle nose. Reposition that, makes sure that's on secure. Now this bracket for the power steering line, we'll just take this little bolt, get this started right there, tighten this down. We'll just take a 10mm wrench and just snug it up. Not too tight. Here's the connector for the evap purge solenoid right there, the solenoid down, lock that in place. Lock the connector down.
We can take this hose. This is going to connect to it right there. Just like that. Make sure that gets locked down. Give it a pull, make sure it's good, and lock this down right here. That's good. This connector is going to go to the throttle body. Slide that in position, lock it down, and then this retainer goes right here over that hose. Take this longer bolt. It's going to go right here for the coolant hose and the shorter one's going right here. If you disconnected that hose right there, reconnect it. Just make sure you top off your coolant afterwards if any drained out. Just use a 10mm socket and a ratchet. Tighten these down.
Now I'll take the snorkel. I'm just going to align this up over here. Line it up on the throttle body and then onto the air box. That's good. Before I tighten that down, there's a little grommet in the back here. Just push down on that and start to tighten this bolt right here. Push that right there. That just kind of hangs out like that. Take my 10mm socket, extension, and ratchet. Tighten this bolt down.
Take a straight blade screwdriver. I'm going to tighten down these worm clamps. You can use this or you can use an 8mm socket to tighten them down and a ratchet. We just want to snug it down, not too tight, just so it doesn't move. That's good. Then same on the inside near the throttle body. Just tighten that one down as well. That's good. Make sure it doesn't move.
I'm just going to take the oil cap off. We can take this cover, slide it back in position. When it's lined up, you can just push it down. Push down right there and then in the back. That's good. Put the oil cap back on. Take this screw. The screw is going to go right there. Just take a T30 socket, extension, and a ratchet and we'll tighten it down. Reconnect the negative terminal on the battery. Tighten it up with a 10mm wrench. Just snug, not too tight. Just give it a wiggle. Make sure it's good. That's good. WE can take this cover, slide it back in position. Lock it down.
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Okay, friends, to get started on our spark plugs, remove your oil cap, grab this cover, give it a nice little wiggle and remove it. At this point, you're gonna be able to see the front three spark plug coils. On the backside though, right back here, you're not gonna be able to see them because it has the air intake. So we're gonna have to go ahead and get this right out of the way. And since you're gonna be removing the intake, you're gonna wanna make sure that you have the gaskets on hand. You want brand new gaskets for that. Now let's blow off any of this existing dust that's here.
Now that we have this nice and blown off, let's continue on by removing our air intake system here. Go ahead and loosen your clamps. You can go ahead and squeeze on this right here and pull this off of there. That should come right out of the way. Just grab onto this. Give it a nice little wiggle set this aside as well. Now let's follow this right here to its mounting bolt. Take that off of there.
Grab this and just a little wiggle. We're gonna set this aside and start that bolt back in there. Let's move along to this hose right here. I'm just gonna disconnect it at this area right there. See if I can give it a nice little twist to break it free. And that way there, we can set this aside and we don't have to disconnect anything else. Just go ahead and grab that mounting point. Just remember where it goes. Here we are. You just wanna give that a little twist so you can get its ears around its mounting points there.
So now we're just gonna disengage this lock right here. If you were to look on this backside, you can see there's a little hooky do. I'm just gonna push on that and this should come right out a little bit. At this point, I'm gonna push on this tab right there. Give this a little wiggle, give it a peek. Make sure you don't see any funny colors. We'll set it aside. Right up here, there's a 10-millimeter headed bolt. Let's go ahead and remove that. There it is. Set it right back in there so we can't forget about it. This looks great.
There's a little anchor point right here. We're just gonna use a little Forkey tool and pop this up out here. You can also use pliers or whatever you might happen to have. We're just gonna move aside. Now we've got another anchor point down on this side of the intake. You need to make sure you get that off there as well, okay? There we go. With that came on attached. It's good enough. Now let's go ahead and squeeze on this tab right here. We'll get this connector off there as well. There we go. Nice little wiggle, take a peek, set it aside.
Another wiring harness that's anchored in. Pop that up and out of there. Anchor right here. And we're gonna have six mounting bolts that holds the intake to the engine. Remove them all. You can see that these ones are stuck back here. So we'll just leave those where they are. Now let's just go ahead and move these wires a little bit out of our way. We'll give this a nice little shake. there we are. Carefully lift it up. We wanna make sure that we don't drop any debris into the engine because as we lift this up, there's gonna be some open ports into the engine.
Now, under this area, you can see the gasket. Go ahead and set this aside. Now, looking up along here, you can tell that there's a lot of dirt and debris. We need to make sure we get all of this out of here and make sure nothing falls inside any of these ports. It's gonna be super important. Use a vacuum cleaner or whatever you've got.
Now that we have this fairly cleaned down, let's continue on by covering up those holes. We wanna make sure that there's no way that anything can make its way down while we're doing our job. Let's continue on by removing our coil wiring. If you press on this tab right here, you should be able to gently pull this off. I always take a peek to make sure I don't see any funny colors. Remove your mounting bolt right here. Go ahead and grab onto that coil. Give it a nice twist and lift it straight up and out of there. Now let's remove our spark plug by using a 5/8 spark plug socket. There's our spark plug, friends.
All right, friends. So now it's gonna be time to install our brand new spark plug. Something that I'd like to mention is this area right here, which is where the electrode is, you want that gap to be approximately 0.043. Essentially just kind of make sure that this piece right here along the bottom isn't bent in due to shipping. Now let's carefully start our spark plug in by hand. We'll go ahead and bottom it out. And now we're gonna torque that to 13 foot-pounds.
Okay friends, now, it's gonna be time to prep the coil. You wanna use a little bit of dielectric grease down here and then a tiny bit up at the electrical area right there. Go ahead and slide this down and over the spark plug, it should fit right in. We'll put on the bolt and then we'll snug it up. Let's get that bolt in there. Now let's torque this to 89 inch-pounds, reconnecting your electrical connector. Make sure it's locked in. Do the same to all the rest. Now that we finished up with all the spark plugs, let's go ahead and get this off of there. And at this point, we need to continue on with a nice razor blade and we're gonna try to clean up the areas where that gasket's gonna ride. Just be careful when you clean it not to force stuff down into these and you definitely wanna make sure you don't drop anything in. If you want to, you can try to stuff it with rags. So I've got these two stuffed. I'll clean those two first and then I'll move along.
Now before we can go ahead and get our intake back on here, we wanna make sure we clean up this lower area the same way. Now that we have this fully cleaned off, I want to talk about the gasket. The gasket is something that you definitely don't wanna reuse. As you can tell along all the rubber areas, they're definitely getting some buildup and they're probably very stiff. Go ahead and put this in the recycling bin and get yourself a new one. Let's go ahead and take that gasket. We're just gonna line it up with the intake here. That looks pretty good.
Now we're gonna put this on top of the engine. I'm just gonna remove my covering, make sure that I have nothing in or around any of my ports. This looks very clean. Go ahead and bring this down and on here. There we are, gasket on there. Perfect. This is setting down good. Let's start on all of our bolts before we snug anything up. Now we're just gonna bottom out these bolts and then we'll torque them to 18 foot-pounds. But before we can do that, I need to let you know how to do it. We're gonna basically make an X pattern. It's gonna be a little bit of a slanted X, but we're gonna start with the center bolts on each bank here and then we're gonna make an X from corner to corner.
Let's go ahead and get this back onto the intake here. Don't forget that you have to just kind of twist it a little bit, slide it down in there, and then lock it in. This is gonna go up like this and it clips on there. Let's go ahead and get this bolt out of here. Now we're gonna get this back on. It's always a good idea to check/replace your gaskets in between anything that you remove. Once you get that started, go ahead and snug it up.
Now let's get our intake back on here. Okay. Make sure it's completely flush on both sides. Go ahead and snug it up. Grab this hose. Slide it into that little rubber boot down there, and then of course clip it in up here. Give it a nice tug. So now let's go ahead and slide our wiring in between this hose area here. Go ahead and connect these together. Make sure it's secure. We'll start that on there.
Now, the next thing we wanna do is secure our wiring so it's not just flopping around. There should be an anchor point right up here where this wire connects onto that would go right into here. And then this one, of course, you've got your other anchor point. Ours is broken. Clip right in here and there should be one right over along the side right there. Now once you have all anchored in, let's go ahead and connect in our sensor here. Give it a nice shake. We're gonna come over to this side, do the same thing to this one. Make sure you lock it in. That's what that red tab is.
Let's go ahead and get our oil cap off of here. Grab our cover, set it right up along the top. Loving bonk to hold it down, make sure it's secure. Put back on your oil cap. All right, so this looks great. The next thing you need to do obviously is close the hood, start it up, watch for a check engine light. Assuming there's no check engine light and you didn't leave anything disconnected, take it for a road test.
