In the past, replacing struts required specialized tools to compress, remove and transfer the old spring and mount.  Pre-assembled with all new parts, our complete strut and spring assemblies make this job much quicker and easier for the do-it-yourself mechanic.

Each complete strut & spring assembly contains:

  • Upper Strut Mount
  • Strut Bearing
  • Coil Spring
  • Boot & Bumper Kit
  • Gas-charged Strut 

To ensure the vehicle performs safely and as designed, we recommend replacing shocks & struts in pairs. If the damping rates are significantly different from side to side (like using different brand parts or mixing old with new) the vehicle body and wheel movement variations could cause handling irregularities. We also recommend performing an alignment after replacement. This will ensure proper tracking and protect your vehicle's tires from premature wear.


Pre-assembled, loaded strut & spring assemblies allow for a quicker, safer install than replacing with just bare struts. 

Trouble-Free Install

Trouble-free install includes the matched parts needed to get the job done. New mounts, bearings, springs and hardware will provide a better ride for your vehicle and save you time from not having to do the job again because a used part failed afterwards.

Lifetime Warranty

This item is backed by a Limited Lifetime Warranty. In the event this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will exchange the part free of charge (excludes shipping charges) for the original purchaser. Please keep your invoice for proof of this warranty.

    Upon completing this procedure, it's recommended to get an alignment

  1. step : Removing the Wheel (0:51)
    • Pry off the hub cap with a flat blade screwdriver
    • Loosen the 35mm hub nut with the vehicle on the ground
    • Loosen the 19mm lug nuts
    • Raise the vehicle with a floor jack
    • Secure the vehicle on jack stands
    • Remove the lug nuts
    • Pull off the wheel
  2. step : Removing the Rotor (1:31)
    • Remove the 17mm bolts from the brake caliper while using an 18mm wrench to hold the inside nut
    • Pry the brake pads into the caliper with a flat blade screwdriver to push in the pistons
    • Pull the caliper aside
    • Pry the brake pads off with a flat blade screwdriver
    • Remove the 18mm bolts from the brake caliper bracket
    • Pull off the brake caliper bracket
    • Pull the rotor off
    • If the rotor will not come off, hit the rotor with a ball peen hammer
    • If the rotor still won't come off, thread the bolts into the press holes and slide the rotor off
    • Remove the center hub nut
  3. step : Removing the Axle (3:35)
    • Place a pry bar onto the back of the axle where it connects to the transmission
    • Hammer the pry bar to push the axle out
    • Remove the 15mm bolts from the panel to access the driver side
    • Remove the 15mm bolts from the control arm with a socket, ratchet, and wrench
    • Hammer the upper control arm off the ball joint
    • Pry open the clip and remove the brake line wiring harness
    • Wire-tire the caliper onto the backing plate
    • Remove the two 10mm bolts from the brake line bracket
    • Pull the control arm back from the steering knuckle
    • Place a drip pan underneath the differential
    • Maneuver the axle out of the differential
  4. step : Removing the Front Strut (6:34)
    • Spray the bolt on the sway bar link with penetrating oil
    • Remove the bolt with a 15mm wrench and a 4.5mm Allen wrench
    • Loosen the two 15mm bolts from the top of the front strut
    • Push the wheel knuckle up and loosen the nuts till they're finger tight
    • Remove the 18mm nut from the base of the strut
    • Tap out the 18mm bolt with a hammer and pry the bolt with a pry bar
    • Spray penetrating oil around the base of the strut
    • Hammer out the base of the strut
    • Wire-tie the wheel knuckle to the control arm
    • Remove the two 15mm nuts from the strut
    • Pull the strut down and out
  5. step : Installing the New Front Strut (9:55)
    • Place a floor jack underneath the lower control arm
    • Place jack stands to support the vehicle
    • Feed the new strut into place
    • Thread the bolts onto the top of the strut
    • Replace the 18mm nut into the base of the strut
    • Torque the 18mm nut to 90 ft/lbs
    • Tighten the 15mm nuts on the top of the struts
    • Torque the 15mm nuts to 50 ft/lbs
    • Tighten the nut on the sway bar with a 15mm wrench and 4.5 Allen wrench
    • Clip the wire ties from the steering knuckle
  6. step : Installing the Axle (12:22)
    • Fit the axle into the hub and then push it into place
    • As you go, place the steering knuckle into the ball joint on the control arm
    • Make sure the axle is locked
    • Replace the brake line bracket
    • Insert and tighten the 10mm bolts to the brake line bracket
    • Re-clip the harness to the brake line
    • Hammer the upper control arm onto the ball joint
    • Replace and tighten the 15mm bolts to the control arm
    • Torque the 15mm bolt to 55 to 60 ft/lbs
  7. step : Installing the Rotor (14:42)
    • Slide the rotor on
    • Thread on one lug nut to hold the rotor in place
    • Apply brake grease to the caliper bracket bolts
    • Put the bracket back into place
    • Start the 18mm bolts by hand and tighten them
    • Torque the bolts to 110 ft/lbs of torque
    • Install the new brake pads into the bracket
    • Apply brake grease to the brake pads
    • Put the caliper on
    • Thread the 17mm bolts by hand
    • Torque bolts to 40 ft/lbs
    • Replace the hub nut and remove the lug nut
  8. step : Reattaching the Wheel (16:33)
    • Slide the wheel into place
    • Start the lug nuts by hand
    • Tighten the lug nuts preliminarily
    • Lower the vehicle to the ground
    • Tighten the hub nut
    • Torque the lug nuts to 100 ft/lbs in a crossing or star pattern
    • Torque the hub nut to 103 ft/lbs
    • Reattach the center cap
  9. step : Testing the Brakes (17:30)
    • Pump your brakes repeatedly until they feel firm
    • Test your brakes at 5 miles per hour and then 10 miles per hour
    • Road test the vehicle

Tools needed for replacement:

    Allen Wrenches

  • 4.5mm Allen Wrench

  • General Tools

  • Drain Pan
  • Floor Jack
  • Hammer
  • Jack Stands

  • Materials, Fluids, and Supplies

  • Brake Parts Cleaner
  • Wire Ties

  • Ratchets & Related

  • A Piece of Pipe (for leverage)
  • Ratchet
  • Socket Extensions
  • Torque Wrench

  • Screwdrivers & Related

  • Flat Blade Screwdriver
  • Pry Bar

  • Sockets - Metric

  • 10mm Socket
  • 15mm Socket
  • 17mm Socket
  • 18mm Socket
  • 19mm Socket
  • 35mm Socket

  • Wrenches - Metric

  • 15mm Wrench
  • 18mm Wrench

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Vehicle Fit

  • 2004-2007 Buick Rainier Front Shock & Spring Assembly Driver or Passenger Side
  • 2002-2009 Chevy Trailblazer (excluding SS Models) Front Shock & Spring Assembly Driver or Passenger Side
  • 2002-2006 Chevy Trailblazer EXT Front Shock & Spring Assembly Driver or Passenger Side
  • 2002-2009 GMC Envoy Front Shock & Spring Assembly Driver or Passenger Side
  • 2002-2006 GMC Envoy XL Front Shock & Spring Assembly Driver or Passenger Side
  • 2004-2005 GMC Envoy XUV Front Shock & Spring Assembly Driver or Passenger Side
  • 2003-2008 Isuzu Ascender Front Shock & Spring Assembly Driver or Passenger Side
  • 2002-2004 Olds Bravada Front Shock & Spring Assembly Driver or Passenger Side
  • 2005-2009 Saab 9-7X Front Shock & Spring Assembly Driver or Passenger Side

This part replaces:

  • Monroe 171341
  • Monroe 181341
Part #: 1ASTS00510

How-to Video:

(18:01 min)