2003 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 Rear Wheel Drive Front & Rear 4 Piece Shock Absorber Set TRQ SBA60378

One of the first things we need to do is safely raise and support the vehicle, so the wheel is off the ground. Let's remove our 22-millimeter lug nuts. Remove your wheel.

Now that we have the wheel off, we have a clear view of where we're going to be working. I used a nice piece of wood just to kind of push this up, so I can see the top area of the shock. On this particular one, I can see it has a jam nut and a regular nut, so I'm just going to go ahead and remove them both. Get that out of there. Now we'll take off the other nut.

The next thing we need to do is get this nut off of here. As you start trying to turn it, what you're going to notice is this top area of the shock is going to want to spin, so we need to figure out a way to make it so this does not spin with that nut. I'm just going to use a pair of locking pliers. You can use whatever you need to, but just hold this so it doesn't spin. Just a turn. There it is. Start it on there, just a couple threads. Now, let's move along to the bottom portion.

Next thing we're going to do is use a 21-millimeter wrench for the bolt side, and use a 21-millimeter socket for the nut over here, and remove it. Get the bolt right out of there. Get the nut off of here, the washer and the bushing, and then we should be able to get this right out of here. There it is, friends.

We've got our new shock here. One of the first things you need to do is charge it up. I mean, go ahead and take it, press it all the way down as far as it'll go, let it rise all the way up. Once it's done that, repeat the process three to five times.

Now that we have our new shock all charged up, we're going to take the nut off of here, remove the top washer and the top bushing. So, now we're going to take it, we're going to come down through the bottom area where we brought the old one out through, bring it up so the stud comes up and through the area in the frame. Now we'll get our bushing, our washer, and then the nut up on top of there.

You'll notice the bushing itself has a small area right here, and if you were to flip it over, you'd see a larger area. You want the small area facing down towards the frame, okay. And if you're looking at the bottom one, you'll want that facing up towards the frame. With that said, go ahead and slide it on there, your washer, and then, of course, your brand-new nut.

Okay. So, now we just need to line up the hole between the control arm and the shock. Once you've done that, go ahead and take the bolt, go through from the front to the back. Take your nut, start it on there. Let's go ahead and bottom this out. Now we're going to torque this nut to 59 foot-pounds. There we are.

Let's get our locking pliers up on here again. We don't need to go extra tight. We're only going to be torqueing this to 15 foot-pounds. Okay. I feel some resistance, so I'm going to stop there. There we are. Let's get that wood out of there. Make sure that this is secure and it can't touch against your exhaust.

Okay. Now it's going to be time to get the wheel up on here. Slide it on. Now we'll get the lug nuts on here, we'll bottom them out, and then we'll torque them to manufacturer specifications. Let's torque these lug nuts to 140 foot-pounds. Torqued.