Replaces
Frequently bought together
Part Details
Our direct fit gas-charged strut assemblies help to restore your vehicle’s handling and ride quality to just like new.
Our direct fit gas-charged shock absorbers help restore your vehicle's handling and ride quality to just like new.
Item Condition:
New
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Chromium (Hexavalent Compounds), which is known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
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Created on:
Tools used
I'm going to use a 22-millimeter socket. Take off the lug nuts, so we can remove the wheel. Now, remove the wheel. Now, I'm going to support the lower control arm with a jack stand. You could also use a floor jack just to take the tension off the suspension. That's good. The top of the shock is pretty rusty, so I'm just going to use some rust penetrant. Let it soak for a little bit. I'll take a 15-millimeter wrench. Slide it over the nut. Just try to break it free first. There we go.
At some point, as you're loosening this nut, the whole shaft of the shock is going to spin, so I'm going to use some large pliers, and just hold it from spinning right here. You could also get some locking pliers, and attach it to the top of the shaft, and just keep loosening the nut. All right. And take that nut off, and slide the top off. Now, I'll use a 21-millimeter socket and a 21-millimeter wrench on the backside of the bolt at the lower shock, and take the nut off. And slide the bolt out. Just support the shock, so it doesn't fall. Slide it up, and you should be able to slide it up. And take this nut off, and take the top washer and bushing off, and slide the shock through. Get it lined up, up top, and get it in position down here, and then slide the bolts on.
Take the nut. Put them on. We're just going to keep this lower bolt loose, and we'll put the top together first because it'll make it easier to install, and then we'll tighten this up afterwards. Now, take this bushing and the washer, and put it over the shaft of the shock. Take the nut, put the nut on. Then you can take a 14-millimeter wrench, or a ratchet wrench, tighten that up, and if the stud starts to spin, or the shaft starts to spin, you can use a six millimeter wrench to hold it as you tighten this up. You can take a torque wrench, and tighten this down to 15 foot-pounds. That's good.
Tighten this up. Now, we'll torque this nut to 59 foot-pounds. Now, we can raise the vehicle. Now, put the tire back on, and the lug nuts. I'm going to torque the lug nuts to 140-foot pounds in a star pattern, or a cross pattern so that it tightens the wheel down evenly.
And just go around again. Double-check.
Tools used
Tools used
One of the first things we need to do is safely raise and support the vehicle, so the wheel is off the ground. Let's remove our 22-millimeter lug nuts. Remove your wheel.
Now that we have the wheel off, we have a clear view of where we're going to be working. I used a nice piece of wood just to kind of push this up, so I can see the top area of the shock. On this particular one, I can see it has a jam nut and a regular nut, so I'm just going to go ahead and remove them both. Get that out of there. Now we'll take off the other nut.
The next thing we need to do is get this nut off of here. As you start trying to turn it, what you're going to notice is this top area of the shock is going to want to spin, so we need to figure out a way to make it so this does not spin with that nut. I'm just going to use a pair of locking pliers. You can use whatever you need to, but just hold this so it doesn't spin. Just a turn. There it is. Start it on there, just a couple threads. Now, let's move along to the bottom portion.
Next thing we're going to do is use a 21-millimeter wrench for the bolt side, and use a 21-millimeter socket for the nut over here, and remove it. Get the bolt right out of there. Get the nut off of here, the washer and the bushing, and then we should be able to get this right out of here. There it is, friends.
We've got our new shock here. One of the first things you need to do is charge it up. I mean, go ahead and take it, press it all the way down as far as it'll go, let it rise all the way up. Once it's done that, repeat the process three to five times.
Now that we have our new shock all charged up, we're going to take the nut off of here, remove the top washer and the top bushing. So, now we're going to take it, we're going to come down through the bottom area where we brought the old one out through, bring it up so the stud comes up and through the area in the frame. Now we'll get our bushing, our washer, and then the nut up on top of there.
You'll notice the bushing itself has a small area right here, and if you were to flip it over, you'd see a larger area. You want the small area facing down towards the frame, okay. And if you're looking at the bottom one, you'll want that facing up towards the frame. With that said, go ahead and slide it on there, your washer, and then, of course, your brand-new nut.
Okay. So, now we just need to line up the hole between the control arm and the shock. Once you've done that, go ahead and take the bolt, go through from the front to the back. Take your nut, start it on there. Let's go ahead and bottom this out. Now we're going to torque this nut to 59 foot-pounds. There we are.
Let's get our locking pliers up on here again. We don't need to go extra tight. We're only going to be torqueing this to 15 foot-pounds. Okay. I feel some resistance, so I'm going to stop there. There we are. Let's get that wood out of there. Make sure that this is secure and it can't touch against your exhaust.
Okay. Now it's going to be time to get the wheel up on here. Slide it on. Now we'll get the lug nuts on here, we'll bottom them out, and then we'll torque them to manufacturer specifications. Let's torque these lug nuts to 140 foot-pounds. Torqued.
Tools used
One of the first things we need to do is safely raise and support the vehicle, so the wheel is off the ground. Let's remove our 22-millimeter lug nuts. Remove your wheel.
Now that we have the wheel off, we have a clear view of where we're going to be working. I used a nice piece of wood just to kind of push this up, so I can see the top area of the shock. On this particular one, I can see it has a jam nut and a regular nut, so I'm just going to go ahead and remove them both. Get that out of there. Now we'll take off the other nut.
The next thing we need to do is get this nut off of here. As you start trying to turn it, what you're going to notice is this top area of the shock is going to want to spin, so we need to figure out a way to make it so this does not spin with that nut. I'm just going to use a pair of locking pliers. You can use whatever you need to, but just hold this so it doesn't spin. Just a turn. There it is. Start it on there, just a couple threads. Now, let's move along to the bottom portion.
Next thing we're going to do is use a 21-millimeter wrench for the bolt side, and use a 21-millimeter socket for the nut over here, and remove it. Get the bolt right out of there. Get the nut off of here, the washer and the bushing, and then we should be able to get this right out of here. There it is, friends.
We've got our new shock here. One of the first things you need to do is charge it up. I mean, go ahead and take it, press it all the way down as far as it'll go, let it rise all the way up. Once it's done that, repeat the process three to five times.
Now that we have our new shock all charged up, we're going to take the nut off of here, remove the top washer and the top bushing. So, now we're going to take it, we're going to come down through the bottom area where we brought the old one out through, bring it up so the stud comes up and through the area in the frame. Now we'll get our bushing, our washer, and then the nut up on top of there.
You'll notice the bushing itself has a small area right here, and if you were to flip it over, you'd see a larger area. You want the small area facing down towards the frame, okay. And if you're looking at the bottom one, you'll want that facing up towards the frame. With that said, go ahead and slide it on there, your washer, and then, of course, your brand-new nut.
Okay. So, now we just need to line up the hole between the control arm and the shock. Once you've done that, go ahead and take the bolt, go through from the front to the back. Take your nut, start it on there. Let's go ahead and bottom this out. Now we're going to torque this nut to 59 foot-pounds. There we are.
Let's get our locking pliers up on here again. We don't need to go extra tight. We're only going to be torqueing this to 15 foot-pounds. Okay. I feel some resistance, so I'm going to stop there. There we are. Let's get that wood out of there. Make sure that this is secure and it can't touch against your exhaust.
Okay. Now it's going to be time to get the wheel up on here. Slide it on. Now we'll get the lug nuts on here, we'll bottom them out, and then we'll torque them to manufacturer specifications. Let's torque these lug nuts to 140 foot-pounds. Torqued.
Tools used
