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Part Details
TRQ brake kits are designed to restore your brake system to like-new performance. TRQ brake pads are positive molded, thermal scorched, chamfered, and utilize a multi-layer shim for enhanced performance and service life. TRQ rotors have a non-directional finish that reduces the break-in period for new rotors as well as reducing vibrations throughout the rotor’s lifecycle. All products are fit and road-tested in our Massachusetts R&D facility to ensure we deliver on our promise of Trusted Reliable Quality.
Product Features
Premium Positive Molded Brake Pads Features and Benefits
Item Condition:
New
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Lead and Lead Compounds, which are known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov.
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
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Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Don from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video we will be showing you how to replace, or do a front brake job on this 2003 Nissan Maxima, pretty much the same for a lot of different years Nissan Maxima, but it will be very similar for any 2000 to 2003 Maxima, as well as the same years of the Infinity I30. You are going to need a new pad and rotor set from 1aauto.com, jack, and jack stands 14, 19, and 21mm sockets.
You'll need a ratchet, and you'll probably also need a breaker bar or a pipe for some extra leverage for some of those bolts, a wire brush. You may need some penetrating oil and the hammer if your rotors don't come off easily. You'll need some brake grease or white grease for reassembly, a torque wrench, and a large C-clamp, or large Channel lock pliers to reset the pistons in the caliper.
Let's start off by removing the wheel. You're going to want a 21mm socket and ratchet or breaker bar, or your tire iron, and you'll probably want to start with the wheel on the ground. Loosen the lug nuts, then raise and secure the vehicle with jack stands, and then remove the wheel and the tire. Okay, turn the wheels by hand or by using the steering wheel, to access the back of caliper.
We're going to just do a general inspection of the brakes. We're going to check the pad life. We're going to check the rotors. You can use a flashlight and look through the inspection in the caliper, to look for your pad. These have a little bit of pad left on them, a little bit of serviceability, but we're going to go ahead and replace them just to show you how to do it. In terms of the rotor, you're going to want to look for excessive rust, excessive wear, and lips, as you run your finger across the rotor itself. This one is in pretty good shape, but we're going to go ahead and replace it with a 1A Auto part, just for your reference.
The next step is going to be removing the two 14mm bolts that hold the caliper to the caliper bracket. Let's speed up as Don removes those two 14mm bolts. These bolts should come off without too much resistance. We're going to pry the brake pad away from the rotor, thus pushing the caliper piston in, creating more room for us to get this off. As you can see, I went right through the inspection port into the rotor and pulled towards me. At this point, we've gained enough access and enough clearance that it will allow us to take the caliper right off. Take the caliper; put it in a position where it's not hanging from the brake line. At this point now, you can remove the outer pad, inner pad if necessary, and you can always use a screwdriver to pry it out. Now, we're going to do just another inspection; take a look at the caliper guide slides. These are both fluid and go in and out, as they should. In the event that you find one that isn't, they can lead to premature brake wear. What you would do is pull it out. You can see this is greased correctly, but if it wasn't, you would take a wire brush to it, clean it up nicely, grease it, put it back in, and re-secure the boot.
Next, we are going to take off the caliper guide with the two 19mm bolts. These are the tools that we're going to use to remove the 19mm bolts: either a conventional half-inch ratchet with a 19mm socket, or if you experience heavy resistance, a breaker bar, and if even further force is needed, you can use a pipe as leverage through the breaker bar. Apply the pipe over and apply even pressure down, adding more force as necessary, so safely, it breaks the bolt free. I will speed up here as Don breaks lose that second bolt. Again, when using the pipe method, you can use it with just a regular ratchet as well, and just apply nice even pressure. Increase the pressure gradually until the bolt breaks lose. At this point now, the 19mm bolt, the second of the two is about to come out, and you want to be careful when you pull it out because your rotor could loosen up, which is still supported by the lugs, which your caliper guide is coming off.
Now, it's time for removal of the brake rotor. In this case, we have an ideal situation because the brake rotor is free. In some cases, you'll find that the brake rotor will be rusted and solid against the hub, in which case you can use some penetrating oil, spraying it around. Let it soak in for a little bit, and then give a tap from the back, breaking the rotor free. You've got to use a wire brush to clean off the hub, to get a nice surface for the rotor to lean against.
I've got the brake rotor. Something that you can do is take some mineral spirits, or brake part cleaner and clean the surface of the rotor, and make sure there's no residual oil left over. Once that's done, slide the rotor on the hub. Install a lug nut hand-tight to hold the rotor in place. Now use your wire brush and clean the stainless steel slides. They're on the brake caliper bracket.
That caliper guide cleaned up. We then install the 19mm bolts. Speed up here; Don first pressed those in by hand, and then uses a socket ratchet to preliminarily tighten them. I set the torque wrench to 98 foot-pounds. I'll go ahead and torque the 19mm bolts. At this point, we're going to recommend using brake grease on the surfaces of the pad that come in contact with the caliper and the caliper slide. You can see I've got a little bit of it sprayed here on the back of the pad, working that in. Then also at the edges that are going to fit into the caliper slide itself. We're going to be careful not to get it on the pad itself. When we took the pads out before, notice that the inboard pad had the clip on the end, so that's going to go in first on the inside, snapping into the caliper bracket; same goes for the outboard pad, snapping right in and leaning up against the rotor.
In order to fit the caliper back over the pads, we're going to compress the piston back into the caliper, using a C-clamp. I'm just going to fast forward as Don works that C-clamp in. You can see, as the C-clamp compresses the piston, it goes back into the caliper. You can also use a large pair of water pump or Chanel lock pliers to do this. You open the pliers up as far as they will go and squeeze the caliper and piston. What we're going to do when we're doing that, is use our fingers to keep the slides in, so that the caliper itself fits right back in. If you find that you're getting any resistance, make sure that these are pushed in, and slot it right up. Re-install my 14mm caliper bolts. Speed up here again, as those bolts are tightened up preliminarily. Now, we are going to set our torque wrench to 25 foot-pounds, and that's it.
Fast forward here, as we take that lug nut back off, put the wheel and tire on, and just put the lugs on by hand first, and then preliminarily tighten them. Set your torque wrench to 100 foot-pounds and tighten the lug nuts. Use a star pattern; draw a star pattern as you tighten them, and then just re-check them.
Every time we do brake work, we just make sure that we get in, pump the brakes a number of times, make sure you have you have a good solid pedal, and then do test stops from 5 and 10 MPH before road testing the vehicle.
We hope this helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
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Hi, I’m Mike from 1A Auto. We’ve been selling auto parts for over 30 years!
Before you lift and support the vehicle, loosen the lug nuts with the wheel on the ground. Use a 21 millimeter socket and a breaker bar. Lug nuts loose can use the 21 millimeter socket with just your hand. Finish removing the lug nuts.
Remove the wheel and place it aside. Before we start to remove the brakes, I'm just going to, I've got the steering wheel unlocked, so I'm just going to move them this way by pulling on it so I can get to these bolts and the caliper bolts easier. Then I will take my caliper and sort of push on it. Try to squeeze in the piston a bit so that when I go to remove it, it comes off easier. Okay.
Use a 14 millimeter wrench to remove the pin bolts. With that one loose, remove the bottom one. Place these aside. Got a bungee cord ready so I can hang this caliper. We don't want to let it hang on the rubber hose. I'm going to work it off of the pads. Now I can hang it from our strut. Through here, go up around the spring. That will hang out of the way right there.
To remove the pads, sometimes they'll just pop right out. If they don't, you can use a flat bladed screwdriver, just pry them out of the carrier. Using a 19 millimeter box wrench, break these free. They're pretty tight. You can use a dead blow or a rubber mallet to hit the wrench. With the bottom one loose, now we're working the top one. These are just finger tight, so I’m going to thread them out. Okay, hold that aside. Hold onto the caliper, because as soon as you undo this top one.
Hold onto the caliper bracket, as soon as you undo this top one it's going to be loose. Pull that off and place this aside. Spray some rust penetrant around the hub, between the hub and the rotor. Give it a wiggle, see if it comes right off. That's on there pretty good. Going to take one of our lug nuts, place it on here so the rotor doesn't fall off. We're going to whack it with our dead blow. This will do it, okay. The reason why I put the lug nut on there was so it didn't fall off when I hit it.
Here's our old brakes for our vehicle, and here's our brand new ones from 1AAuto.com. As you can see, they are same bolt pattern, same size rotor, and they're both ventilated rotors. Pads are the same exact style and design. Got your anti-squeal shims on the back, your wear indicators on both of them. These brakes will fit great and help you stop when you're going down the road.
If this hub is really rusty, take a wire brush and knock some of the rust off. This way the rotor goes on nice and evenly. Just going to spray this down with some brake parts cleaner to get rid of the penetrating oil I sprayed on there earlier. New rotor comes coated in a rust protectant oil. You want to clean that off before you install it, so I'm going to put it on backwards, that way it's held. Take my brake parts cleaner and clean it off. Take a rag, wipe off any excess. Grab it by the edges and flip it over.
Since this rotor doesn't have any screws to hold it in place, you can put a lug nut on here to keep it from falling off. Take some more brake parts cleaner and clean off this face of the rotor. Push it right up against the hub. Now remove the stainless steel brake caliper clips. Pop them out with a flat bladed screwdriver. Clean where they sit in the caliper bracket with a wire brush. Spray with some brake parts cleaner. At this point, it's a good time to check your slide pins. These move nice and freely. Same thing with the other side. Clean our stainless steel caliper clips with the brake parts cleaner and the wire brush. Wipe them off with a rag. Repeat this for the other side.
Reinstall the caliper bracket. The torque on these bolts is 101 foot-pounds to 129 foot-pounds, so I've got my torque wrench set to 115. Install our pads. Make sure you haven't touched these and gotten them greasy. These look pretty clean, but if you do get them dirty and greasy, you can take some brake parts cleaner and just spray them down. Use some caliper guide grease, and put it on the little ears of the pad here. Don't need a whole lot.
This is going to be our inside pad, kind of sit in. It will just slide in like this. Go this way, whichever way it goes in easier. Same thing for the outside pad. In this car, the pads are identical, so there is no inside/outside. Got a large C-clamp set up to compress this caliper piston back into the caliper. I've taken our old brake pad to use as a thing to push against. This way, try not to damage the caliper piston. I'm just going to turn it in slowly and tighten it, and the caliper piston will compress. Right there is good. Take it off. Done with that, put it aside.
Unhook our caliper from the bungee cord. I'll get that in a second. Slide our caliper back over. There are key ways in these slide bolts. There’s flat sides and curved slides on both of them. The flat side will fit against the flat side of the caliper right here, same on the top. Keeps the slide pins from spinning while we try to tighten them. Install the bolts. Don't forget your bungee cord. We're all done with that, we can put it away.
Torque on the caliper slide pin bolts is 16 to 23, we're going to torque them to 20. Brakes are installed.
We'll reinstall our wheel, and we'll torque the lug nuts. Just going to use the socket to get these lug nuts as tight as you can by hand, and torque the wheel afterwards once it's on the ground. Torque on the lug nuts is 73 to 86. I've torqued these to 80 in a cross pattern. The job is complete.
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