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Product Features
TRQ drivetrain kits are manufactured using premium raw materials to restore original performance. Each TRQ drivetrain component is designed to be a direct, maintenance-free replacement to the stock unit. To extend the service life of your drivetrain, TRQ recommends replacing wheel hubs, bearings, and constant velocity (CV) drive axles at the same time to ensure even wear of components and improved ride comfort. All products are fit and road-tested in our Massachusetts R&D facility to ensure we deliver on our promise of Trusted Reliable Quality.
Our steering and suspension components are pre-greased and sealed for long life and do not require the extra maintenance typically required by greaseable versions.
Item Condition:
New
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Lead and Lead Compounds, which are known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov.
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
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Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we're going to show you how to replace the wheel bearing and hub assembly on a 1996 Jeep Cherokee. This information will be the same from 1990 to 1998, and similar to any other Jeep vehicle that uses a Dana 30 Front Axle.
The items you'll need for this repair are a new wheel bearing and hub assembly from 1AAuto.com, a 13mm, 19mm, 36mm front socket, a ratchet and breaker bar, a torque wrench, pry bar, needle nose pliers, a hammer, pick tool, bungee cord, and your favorite penetrating oil.
Using a 19 millimeter socket and breaker bar, crack the lug nuts loose. Straighten out the cotter pin with a pair of needle nose pliers, and move it from the axle. Remove the cap and washer from the axle nut. Using the 36 millimeter socket and breaker bar, break the axle nut loose. These are usually on pretty tight, so you may need to put some force behind it. Remove the axle nut from the end of the axle shaft.
While we're using a lift to make it easier to show you, this job can also be done at home on a jack and jack stands. With the vehicle raised and supported, you can finish removing the rest of the lug nuts and the wheel. Using a 13 millimeter socket and ratchet, remove the two bolts securing the caliper to the spindle. Remove the caliper and pads from the spindle.
You may need a small pry bar or a large flat screwdriver to remove the caliper. Once the caliper is removed, use a bungee cord, mechanics wire, or zip ties to hang the caliper up and out of the way. Remove the rotor.
We're going to spray some penetrating oil around the contact points of the hub, as well as the exposed portions of the stud. Remove the three 13 millimeter 12-point bolts securing the wheel hub to the spindle. We're going to use a 12-point 13 millimeter socket, a breaker bar, and if you need to, you can use a pipe for a little extra leverage.
We'll break the bolts loose with the breaker bar, and finish removing them with a socket and ratchet. If you have a nut and washer as opposed to a flange nut on your axle, you can use a small pick to pull the washer out so it doesn't fall off when you remove the hub. Tap the axle in to be sure that the splines are free of the hub. Then with a hammer tap the hub out of the spindle. Remove the dust shield as well.
Here we have our old wheel hub that we removed from the vehicle, and our new wheel hub from 1AAuto.com. As you can see, they both have the same number of studs and the same bolt pattern. They have the same splines in the middle to accept our axle. The same three-bolt pattern on the rear. What happens with these is they develop excessive in and out play that you can see there, which is felt as up and down or side to side on the vehicle. You can hear that it doesn't exactly turn smoothly. It's got kind of a grinding crunchy sound to it, whereas our new hub has zero in and out play, and rotates nice and smooth.
If your old wheel hub has excessive in and out or up and down play, is creating a grinding noise, or failed ABS reading if your vehicle is equipped, then this new wheel hub from 1A Auto is going to go in direct fit, just like your original equipment and fix you up right.
Reinstall the dust shield. Line up the hub onto the splines. Set it into place, and start your three 12-point 13 millimeter bolts. Tighten down the wheel hub bolts with a 13 millimeter 12-point socket. Be sure that the hub installs back into the spindle nice and straight. Torque the hub bolts to 75 foot-pounds.
Reinstall your rotor onto the hub. Remove your caliper from wherever you secured it. Reinstall it onto the rotor. Reinstall the two 13 millimeter bolts. Secure your caliper to the spindle. Torque the caliper mounting bolts to 20 foot-pounds.
Reinstall the wheel onto the hub. Start your lug nuts by hand. Torque the lug nuts to 110 foot-pounds in a cross pattern. Using the 38 millimeter socket and the torque wrench, torque your axle nut to 175 foot-pounds. Install this cap onto the axle nut in a way that allows you to insert a new cotter pin. The pair of needle nose pliers. Then both ears of the cotter pin to opposite sides of the nut.
Thanks for tuning in. We hope this video helped you out. Next time you need parts for your car, please visit 1AAuto.com. Also check out our other helpful how-to and diagnosis videos.
