Specifications:

  • Brand New Steering Kit
  • Comes as a Set of 6
    • Fits LH (Driver Side) & RH (Passenger Side)
  • Direct replacements
  • Built to strict quality control standard

Please Note: Whenever replacing steering components, it is highly recommended to have a professional alignment performed on the vehicle afterwards.  Failure to do so may result in issues with steering and premature tire wear.

Lifetime Warranty

This item is backed by a Limited Lifetime Warranty. In the event this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will exchange the part free of charge (excludes shipping charges) for the original purchaser. Please keep your invoice for proof of this warranty.

  1. step : Removing the Wheel (1:03)
    • Loosen the 19mm lug nuts with the vehicle on the ground
    • Straighten the cotter pin on the axle nut with needle nose pliers
    • Remove the cap and washer from the axle nut
    • Loosen the axle nut with a 36mm socket and breaker bar
    • Raise the vehicle with a floor jack
    • Secure the vehicle on jack stands
    • Remove the lug nuts
    • Pull off the wheel
  2. step : Removing the Brake Rotor (2:29)
    • Remove 13mm bolts from the brake caliper
    • Pull the caliper aside and secure it out of the way with a bungee chord
    • Pull the rotor off
  3. step : Removing the Hub (3:17)
    • Spray rust penetrant around the contact points of the hub
    • Remove the three 13mm 12-point bolts from the hub
    • Pry off the washer from the axle (if you have one) with a pick
    • Tap the axle in with a hammer to free the splines from the hub
    • Tap the hub out of the spindle with a hammer
    • Remove the hub and dust shield
  4. step : Loosening the Tie Rod (4:56)
    • Remove the cotter pin from the tie rod castle nut with a pair of pliers
    • Remove the 19mm castle nut from the tie rod
    • Hit the edge of the spindle to release the stud
    • Release the tie rode from the spindle
  5. step : Removing the Lower and Upper Ball Joint (6:08)
    • Remove the cotter pins from the upper and lower ball joints
    • If the cotter pin breaker or gets stuck, punch the pin through with a punch and hammer
    • Remove the axle shaft from the housing
    • Insert rags or a glove to stop axle fluid from leaking
    • Remove the two 22mm castle nuts from the ball joints
    • Insert a pick fork between the upper ball joint and the spindle to release the ball joint
    • If needed, hit the bottom to release the spindle from the axle
    • Remove the upper ball joint with a ball joint press
    • Repeat the process for the lower ball joint
  6. step : Installing the Lower and Upper Ball Joint (11:36)
    • Remove the boots from the ball joints
    • Press the upper ball joint into the spindle with the ball joint press until it bottoms out into the slot on the axle
    • Insert the boot to the upper ball joint
    • Press the lower ball joint into the spindle with the ball joint press until it bottoms out into the slot on the axle
    • Insert the boot to the lower ball joint
    • Hand-tighten the lower ball joint castle nut
    • Hand-tighten the upper ball joint castle nut
    • Tighten the lower ball joint castle nut with a 32mm socket and ratchet
    • Tighten the upper ball joint castle nut with a 22mm socket and ratchet
    • Torque the upper ball joint nut to 75 foot-pounds
    • Torque the upper ball joint nut to 80 foot-pounds
    • Install the lower cotter pin with the longer end facing down over the stud
    • Cut the shorter leg off
    • Install the upper cotter pin with the longer end facing down over the stud
    • Cut the shorter leg off
    • Tighten the upper ball joint grease fitting with a 7mm wrench
    • Add grease to the ball joint until the boot swells without popping off the joint
    • Remove the rags blocking the axle fluid
    • Insert the axle into the differential
  7. step : Reinstalling the Tie Rod (15:41)
    • Insert the tie rod into the spindle
    • Tighten the 19mm castle nut
    • Torque the tie rod nut to 35 foot-pounds
    • Insert the new cotter pin into the tie rod
    • Bend the longer leg over the top of the stud
    • Cut the shorter leg
  8. step : Installing the Hub (16:37)
    • Insert the dust shield into place
    • Insert the hub into place
    • Tighten the 12-point 13mm bolts
    • Torque the hub bolts to 75 foot-pounds
  9. step : Installing the Rotor (17:27)
    • Insert the rotor onto the hub
    • Press the caliper onto the rotor
    • Tighten the two 13mm bolts to the caliper
    • Torque the caliper mounting bolts to 20 foot-pounds
  10. step : Reattaching the Wheel (18:07)
    • Slide the wheel into place
    • Start the lug nuts by hand
    • Tighten the lug nuts preliminarily
    • Lower the vehicle to the ground
    • Tighten the lug nuts to between 110 foot-pounds in a crossing or star pattern
    • Torque the axle nut to 175 foot-pounds
    • Insert the axle nut cap into place
    • Insert a new cotter pin into place
    • Turn each end of the cotter pin to opposite sides of the nut

Tools needed for replacement:

    General Tools

  • Center Punch
  • Hammer
  • Pick

  • Materials, Fluids, and Supplies

  • Rust Penetrant
  • Bungee Cord

  • Pliers, Cutters & misc Wrenches

  • Needle nose pliers

  • Ratchets & Related

  • A Piece of Pipe (for leverage)
  • Ratchet
  • Torque Wrench
  • Socket Extensions

  • Screwdrivers & Related

  • Pry Bar

  • Sockets - Metric

  • 19mm Socket
  • 13mm Socket
  • 36mm Socket
  • 22mm Socket

  • Specialty Tools

  • Ball Joint Press
  • Pickle Fork
  • Grease Gun

  • Wrenches - Metric

  • 7mm Wrench

5.0 / 5.0
2 Reviews
5 Stars
4 Stars
3 Stars
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1 Stars
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I am still amazed I got more then I paid for.
Long story short. This is the entire ZJ V-8 steering kit. Identical to the 5.2 and 5.9. Everything is there makes for an easy replacement. This would be a good cheap up grade for lifted XJ or I-6 ZJ's who like to 4 wheel with bigger tires. for 85 bucks. how could you go wrong.? The XJs and I-6 steer kit is a tooth pic in comparison. and for 85 dollars this kit should be sold out. unless you have a ton.'s of coin to blow.
March 7, 2017
Purchased
1 year ago
Perfect Fit
When I received my parts, I was missing one piece. I called 1A Auto and they sent me the missing part over night. Everything fit perfectly.
March 23, 2017
Purchased
1 year ago
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How-to Video:

(19:35 min)

Tools List:

    General Tools

  • Center Punch
  • Hammer
  • Pick

  • Materials, Fluids, and Supplies

  • Rust Penetrant
  • Bungee Cord

  • Pliers, Cutters & misc Wrenches

  • Needle nose pliers

  • Ratchets & Related

  • A Piece of Pipe (for leverage)
  • Ratchet
  • Torque Wrench
  • Socket Extensions

  • Screwdrivers & Related

  • Pry Bar

  • Sockets - Metric

  • 19mm Socket
  • 13mm Socket
  • 36mm Socket
  • 22mm Socket

  • Specialty Tools

  • Ball Joint Press
  • Pickle Fork
  • Grease Gun

  • Wrenches - Metric

  • 7mm Wrench



This part replaces:

  • Moog ES3096L
  • Moog ES2079S
  • Moog DS1310
  • Moog DS1312
  • OE # 52005739
  • OE # 52037536, E7TZ 3281 C
  • OE # 52037994
  • OE # 52037996

Vehicle Fit

  • 1993-1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee Inner & Outer Tie Rod 6 Piece Set with Tie Rod Adjusting Sleeves V8 5.2L
  • 1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee Inner & Outer Tie Rod 6 Piece Set with Tie Rod Adjusting Sleeves V8 5.9L
Part #: 1ASFK01715

Ships Same Day for orders placed by 4 P.M. ET

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Customer Feedback

"Thanks for the fast reliable service. Great price, and the headlights were as good as oem or better!!! Keep up the good work..."
- Dwuan M.
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