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How to Replace Fuel Tank Filler Neck 98-03 Ford Escort

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  1. step : Removing the Gas Cap (1:01)
    • Open the fuel door
    • Twist off the gas cap
    • Remove the two 8mm bolts from the filler neck
    • Pull off the gas cap collar
  2. step : Removing the Filler Neck Panel (1:31)
    • Remove the two 8mm bolts from the filler neck panel
    • Remove the plastic rivet from the filler neck panel
    • Pull off the filler neck panel
  3. step : Removing the Filler Neck (2:35)
    • Apply rust penetrant to the filler neck bolts
    • Remove the 10mm bolt from the filler neck
    • Apply rust penetrant to the filler neck hose clamps
    • Loosen the hose clamps, using vise grip pliers or a hammer and screwdriver, if necessary
    • Pry the hoses off the filler neck
    • Pull the filler neck down and out
  4. step : Installing the Filler Neck (4:58)
    • Lift the filler neck into place
    • Push the hoses onto the filler neck
    • Tighten the filler neck hose clamps
    • Remove the speed nuts from the old filler neck with pliers
    • Push the speed nuts into the new filler neck
  5. step : Installing the Gas Cap (6:45)
    • Push in the gas cap collar
    • Install the two 8mm bolts into the filler neck
  6. step : Installing the Filler Neck Panel (7:09)
    • Insert the 10mm bolt into the filler neck
    • Alternatively, hold the filler neck in place with wire ties
    • Lift the filler neck panel into place
    • Insert the two 8mm bolts into the filler neck panel
    • Insert the plastic rivet into the filler neck panel
    • Twist on the gas cap
    • Close the fuel door

Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.

Hi, I'm Don from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.

In this video we're going to replace a fuel filler neck on this 2001 Ford Escort ZX2. A lot of times, these filler necks rust out, and as you'll see, ours is pretty crusty in this vehicle. They get pin holes and they leak and that causes a check engine light to come on and the message from the check engine light is usually something like check your emission system or check your evaporative system. Tools you'll need are jack and jack stands as you'll need to raise the back of the vehicle in order to get some access behind the rear wheel, eight and ten millimeter sockets with a ratchet extension, Phillips screwdriver, pliers, flat blade screwdriver and we obviously used a hammer to break one of the clamps that was rusted.

Remove the gas cap and those two eight millimeter bolts in behind. We'll kind of speed up here as we remove those. Then, in behind, there's a plastic collar that pulls up and out; it can be a little tough to get out. Remove the eight millimeter screw here, eight millimeter here, and the plastic Phillips rivet. We found that the two eight millimeter bolts come out pretty easily, so we'll just fast-forward though that. On this plastic rivet, what it is, it's basically a little clip, and there is a Phillips head in the middle of it and you should be able to twist the Phillips head out counter-clockwise, but what always happens is they get sand stuck in them and they don't come out well. What you should be able to do is twist the head out counter-clockwise and then pull the clip out. It basically just doesn't work that way and we ended up pretty much breaking the screw head off and then just pushing the clip through and then pulling the whole assembly out.

We've got a ten millimeter bolt holding the filler neck in here and we've got quite a bit of rust, so we're going to spray it down with penetrating oil and let it soak in. It's a ten millimeter bolt, but I think we ended up using a standard size socket, that was a little bit smaller, and it ends up being a moot point anyways because the bolt head just breaks off. There are two hose clamps, one for a breather and one for your filler neck. These are, again, rusty so spray them down. I'm going to fast-forward.

We make an attempt at just doing it the conventional way on both clamps, but it doesn't work because they're so badly rusted. For the smaller clamp, we use a pair of vise grip pliers, as you can see here. Lock it onto the bolt and then it actually comes free. For the larger clamp, we get a little bit more barbaric, and just use a large screwdriver and a hammer and basically just destroy the old clamp. We drive the screwdriver between the bolt and the strap of the clamp, and that eventually just breaks it apart and it comes off.

Now, remove the two hoses. Use the screwdriver to loosen them up a little bit. We'll speed it up here a little bit. It's pretty much whatever you can do to break those hoses free of the filler neck. The filler neck rusts and basically, it just locks itself onto the hoses. Put a screwdriver between the filler neck and the hoses, or use a pair of pliers and try and twist the hose off of the filler neck. Once you get it broken free, it pretty much pulls out.

We've got our old filler neck and our new filler neck from 1A Auto, exactly the same. It will go in just as the factory would. We're putting new clamps on, just in there and then snake my new filler neck back up, lining up the holes, tightening up the clamps. Use the appropriate sized socket or flat blade screwdriver to tighten your new clamps. Putting it together is always so much nicer than trying to take it apart. Just put the new part in and tighten up the two clamps. Earlier we did remove that evaporator hose, just to make it a little easier to get in there.

The two speed nuts built into the old filler neck need to be swapped over to the new one. Just use a pair of pliers to squeeze the backside of the clip or the speed nut and push it through. You could also use pliers and a screwdriver to pry from the other side as well.

Reinstalling the old speed nuts into the filler pipe, I'm going to put the cover back in. Just a quick note here: put this in, and then you can reach in behind and move the filler neck around a little bit to help line up these bolts and get them back in and going. We'll speed it up here. Our bolt that holds the bracket here to the inside of the fender well broke. You could either drill it out or put a couple of zip-ties through it. It'll still do the same thing. Reinstalling the shield, we get the shield back up in place, and put that plastic rivet and lock pin back in place and then put the two eight-millimeter bolts that hold it in.

We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.

Tools needed for replacement:

    General Tools

  • Hammer
  • Jack Stands
  • Floor Jack

  • Materials, Fluids, and Supplies

  • Wire Ties
  • Rust Penetrant

  • Pliers, Cutters & misc Wrenches

  • Vise Grip Pliers
  • Needle nose pliers

  • Ratchets & Related

  • Ratchet
  • Socket Extensions

  • Screwdrivers & Related

  • Phillips Head Screwdriver
  • Flat Blade Screwdriver

  • Sockets - Metric

  • 10mm Socket
  • 8mm Socket


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