How To Replace Front Brake Caliper 1998-2006 Suzuki XL-7
Created on: 2014-02-28
How to repair, install, fix, change or replace your own worn, squeaky, fading old front brakes on 02, Suzuki XL-7
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step 1 :Removing the Wheel
- Pry off the center cap with a flat blade screwdriver
- Loosen the lug nuts with the vehicle on the ground
- Raise the vehicle with a floor jack
- Secure the vehicle on jack stands
- Remove the lug nuts
- Pull off the wheel
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step 2 :Removing the Brake Pads
- Pry the brake pads into the caliper with a flat blade screwdriver to push in the pistons
- Turn the rotor by hand or turn the steering wheel to turn the rotor
- Remove the 17mm bolt from the brake caliper
- Remove the 14mm bolt from the brake caliper
- Pull the caliper aside
- Pry the brake pads off with a flat blade screwdriver
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step 3 :Removing the Brake Caliper Bracket
- Remove the two 17mm bolts from the brake caliper bracket
- Pull off the brake caliper bracket
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step 4 :Removing the Brake Caliper
- Remove the 14mm bolt from the caliper
- Pull the brake line off the caliper
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step 5 :Installing the Brake Caliper
- Put a copper washer between the brake caliper and the brake line
- Put a copper washer on the outside of the brake line
- Put the brake line into place
- Insert the 14mm bolt into the brake caliper
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step 6 :Installing the Brake Pads
- Put the brake pad slides into the brake caliper bracket
- Push the brake caliper bracket onto the brake caliper slides
- Push the brake pads into the brake caliper
- Put the brake caliper onto the rotor
- Insert the 14mm bolt into the caliper bracket
- Insert the 17mm bolt into the caliper bracket
- Tighten the 14mm caliper bolt to 40 - 45 foot-pounds of torque
- Tighten the 17mm caliper bolt to 55-60 foot-pounds
- Tighten the two 17mm caliper bracket bolts to 80-85 foot-pounds
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step 7 :Replacing the Brake Fluid
- Add brake fluid to the brake fluid bottle
- Have a drain pan ready
- Have an assistant pump the brakes
- Have an assistant hold the brakes on
- Open the bleeder valve with an 8mm wrench
- Close the bleeder valve
- Repeat these steps until there are no air bubbles in the brake fluid
- Add brake fluid to the brake fluid bottle as necessary
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step 8 :Reattaching the Wheel
- Slide the wheel into place
- Start the lug nuts by hand
- Tighten the lug nuts preliminarily
- Lower the vehicle to the ground
- Tighten the lug nuts to 100 foot-pounds in a crossing or star pattern
- Reattach the center cap
Tools needed
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A Piece of Pipe (for leverage)
Torque Wrench
14mm Socket
Rust Penetrant
8mm Wrench
17mm Socket
Jack Stands
19mm Socket
Flat Blade Screwdriver
Brake Fluid
Drain Pan
Ratchet
Floor Jack
Assistant
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Hi, I'm Don from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we're going to show you how to replace a front brake caliper on this 2002 Suzuki XL-7. We show you on the passenger side but the driver side is a similar procedure. The items you'll need for this is a 14, 17, and 19 millimeter socket and ratchet with a piece of pipe for leverage; a flat blade screwdriver; a torque wrench; jack and jack stands; something to collect the brake fluid when you bleed the brakes; and brake fluid. For this vehicle it takes DOT 3. You'll need an eight millimeter wrench to bleed the brakes.
Start off by prying off your hubcap. Next you want to remove the 19 millimeter lug nuts. If you don't have air-powered tools you're going to want to loosen these while the vehicle is on the ground, then jack the vehicle up and remove them the rest of the way and you can remove the wheel.
Next, use a flat blade screwdriver to pry the inner brake pad in. That'll push the caliper piston in and make it a little easier to pull off. Now, turn your wheel so you have better access. You want to remove this 17 millimeter bolt and this 14 millimeter bolt. We'll just fast forward as Mike does this. As you can see, it's a bit of a struggle removing these bolts. We find out the reason is that there's no grease on these slides, and that should not be the case. You can pull your caliper off and set it aside.
Remove your brake pads. Now to remove the caliper bracket you want to remove these two 17 millimeter bolts. We ran into a problem here where the bolt breaks off. The head of the bolt break off because the vehicle is so rusty. We are able to get the top bolt out with the use of some penetrating oil first and then the bracket does come off with a little help from a hammer.
Now to remove your caliper, you just want to remove this 14 millimeter bolt holding in the brake line, and then just pull the brake line free.
Have your new caliper standing by. It'll come with two copper crush washers. You want to put one between the caliper and the line and then put another one on the outside line and then put your bolt in and tighten it up.
Take your new brake caliper bracket and push your brake pad slides into place. We'll fast forward as Don does this. Push the brake caliper bracket onto the brake caliper slides, and then push your brake pads into place. Now, put your brake caliper back onto the rotor. Now replace those two caliper bolts. The 14 milliliter one, tighten to 40 to 45 foot-pounds; the 17 millimeter one tighten to 55 to 60 foot-pounds. Then those two bracket bolts, you want to replace and tighten to about 80 to 85 foot-pounds.
After replacing your brake caliper you're now going to have to replace the brake fluid and then bleed your brake lines. Don will walk you through those steps. All right, so now the last thing that we need to do, after we've got the new caliper on and your brake line is rehashed, is bleed the brake system. You saw us just fill up the reservoir with some new fresh DOT 3 brake fluid. We've got Paul in the car, and he's going to pump the brake a couple of times. Paul? So he's going to pump it. I'm going to use an eight millimeter wrench on the bleeder, which is right here, and I'm going to ask him to hold it. Okay, Paul, hold your foot down. I'm going to crack the bleeder open. You can see the fluid come out. Now I'm going to close it. Okay Paul, pump it. You can see the caliper moving a little bit under the pressure. Okay, hold it. Slowly open it. Do it until there's no more fluid. I'm trying to show everybody here, so that's why it's getting a little bit messy but you should have some kind of a hose or just a way to collect the fluid as it comes out. Okay Paul, go ahead and pump it, and hold. All right, it now looks like there's no air bubbles in there now. We're getting good fluid. You'll want to do it until you got no more air bubbles coming out. Once you're all set with that go back to your reservoir and make sure it's topped up. I'm going to go ahead and just fill this back up, top it off to the max line. Be careful not to spill any because it will harm your paint. We're all set.
We'll fast forward here as Don replaces the wheel and those 19 millimeter lug nuts. You want to tighten them up preliminarily, lower the vehicle and tighten them the rest of the way. Now you want to torque those lug nuts to 100 foot-pounds in a crossing pattern. Then replace your hubcap and before taking the vehicle out on the road you want to pump your brakes until they firm up, and then you want to do a stopping test from five miles per hour and then 10 miles per hour.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
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