How to Replace Engine Oil Pan 2002-06 Nissan Maxima 35L
Created on: 2013-05-06
This how-to video shows how to drain and add oil, and also how to replace the engine oil pan, clean the metal surface and apply RTV
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step 1 :Drain the Oil Pan
- Locate the oil pan under the engine
- Place a drip pan directly underneath
- Remove the 14mm drain plug
- Wait for the oil to drain
- Reinstall the drain plug
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step 2 :Remove the Oil Pan
- Remove the ten 10mm bolts that hold the oil pan to the block
- Tap the lower part of the oil pan with a hammer
- Pull the lower pan off
- Using a flat blade razor scrape off any sealant
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step 3 :Installing the New Oil Pan
- Apply RTV to the oil pan
- Wipe down the oil block to remove any residual oil
- Place the pan and insert and tighten a 10mm bolt
- Place the 10mm bolts in by hand and tighten them preliminarily in a crossing pattern
- Tighten the bolts between 10 and 15 ft/lbs with a torque wrench in a crossing pattern
- Install the 14mm drain plug
- Wait for the RTV to dry
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step 4 :Replacing the Oil
- Use a funnel to replace the oil
- Check the oil level with the dipstick
- Check the car to make sure there's no leakage
Tools needed
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Razor Blade / Gasket Scraper
Gear Oil
Socket Extensions
Torque Wrench
14mm Socket
Jack Stands
Drain Pan
10mm Socket
Ratchet
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Hi, I'm Don from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and the next time you need a part for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we're going to replace the oil pan on this 2003 Nissan Maxima with the 3.5 liter V6. This procedure is pretty much the same for any Nissan from the 2000 and 2006 Nissan and Infinity that has this 3.5 liter V6 engine. You'll need a new oil pan from 1AAuto.com, some jack and jack stands, 10mm and 14mm sockets with a ratchet and extension, a fluid catch basin, a torque wrench, and some replacement oil. And if you'd like, probably a good time get yourself a new oil filter and just do a complete oil change at the same time.
You can locate the oil pan the front right of the car under the engine. I'm removing the 14mm drain plug and making sure my oil catch basin is directly underneath. With the oil almost completely drained, I'm just going to reinstall the drain plug loosely. I'm removing 10mm bolts that hold the oil pan to the block. There's 10 of them all the way around. We'll fast forward, here, as Don is removing those bolts. They should come out fairly easily. You're not supposed to tighten them much. You only tighten them up to about 12 foot-pounds when you reassemble it. If you are concerned with the pan falling down, just leave a couple bolts in until you have your catch pan in position and everything.
Usually, these are RTV'd on there, so you can usually just take all the bolts right out and then you'll have to either pry the pan off, or we just use a hammer. Since we're replacing it, we just use a hammer and give it some love-taps until it breaks free of the gasket. Don actually, he was hitting the lower part of the pan. He was not hitting up near the lift or anything. He was hitting the lower part of the pan to break it free.
Using a flatbed razor, scrape off any extra dried RTV/gasket sealant that they used. Apply silicone RTV to the new pan. I'm just going to speed it up as I go around. We use any good quality RTV gasket maker. You can get it at pretty much any automotive place. Just make sure you follow the directions for a good seal. I've scraped clean the bottom of the lock and wiping down, now, to get any residual oil. You can use any kind of automotive cleaner. Once I've done that, the pan's ready to go up.
Reinstall the 10mm bolt finger tight. Come around the back, do the same with one more. I'll just speed up, here, as Don basically put in all the bolts, put in by hand first just to make sure that they go in correctly. Then he goes and basically kind of preliminarily tightens them up using an opposite pattern. One on one side, go to the opposite side, tighten it, and work your way around the pan.
Now, after tightening up preliminarily, we're going to use a torque wrench and tighten them to about anywhere between 12 and 15 foot-pounds. Again, kind of using that opposite method, tighten one, go to the opposite side, tighten the next one, go to the opposite side, and work your way around the pan. Make sure drain plug is installed and tight. Depending on the RTV you use, you make have to wait to fill the crank case. I'm filling the oil back up to the manufacturers recommended level. Just insure your oil level is at the right level by checking it with the dipstick. Then, obviously, check underneath the car. Check every few times you drive it, so just to make sure that you don't get any oil leaking and you've got a good seal on the pan.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
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