How To Replace 2002 Toyota Tundra Timing Belt V8 PART 3
Created on: 2011-09-13
Watch part 3 in the video series showing you how to replace the timing belt in your 2002 Toyota Tundra using our timing belt and water pump kit.
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step 1 :Torque the harmonic balancer bolt
- Use a 2x4 with two bolt holes and an access hole drilled into it.
- Take the bolts from the harmonic balancer puller and use them to secure the 2x4 to the harmonic balancer.
- Torque the harmonic balancer to 181 ft lbs.
NOTE: Torque specs for the bolts on the front of the engine: 10 mm bolts should be torqued to 10-12 ft lbs, 12 mm bolts torque to 15-20 ft lbs, and 14 mm bolts should be torqued to 25-30 ft lbs.
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step 2 :Reassemble the front of the engine
- Replace the serpentine belt tensioner
- Mount the tensioner and bolt it down with your socket and ratchet.
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step 3 :Install the alternator next, bolting it in with your socket and ratchet.
- One bolt hole will remain vacant for the time being.
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step 4 :Mount the power steering pump onto the stud coming out of the engine.
- Turn the pulley to tighten up the nut and two bolts through the holes.
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step 5 :mount the plastic covers and connect up the wiring.
- Replace the center plastic cover, and torque the two long 12 mm bolts to 17 ft lbs as they do help hold the water pump on.
- Replace the passenger side timing chain cover, and torque those bolts to 7-10 ft lbs.
- Feed the driver-side cover under the wiring and thread the crank sensor wire through it.
- Reconnect the wiring harness connections.
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step 6 :Connect the intake manifold and oil cooler tube.
- Apply gasket sealant to the intake gasket and bolt down the top of the intake manifold, torqueing the bolts to 17 ft lbs.
- Install the oil cooler tube, bolting down the bracket before you put the clamps on.
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step 7 :Install the idler and tensioner pulley
- Mount the pulleys and thread on the washers and bolts.
- Tighten the bolts up to 25-30 ft lbs.
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step 8 :Install the AC compressor
- From up underneath the vehicle start the 12 mm bolt and then the 12 mm nut.
- Tighten both up, and then from the top tighten the top bolt.
- Use a Phillips screwdriver to mount the bracket and reconnect the wiring to the AC compressor.
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step 9 :Install the fan pulley
- Mount the fan pulley and then put the fan on it.
- Start the four nuts that hold the fan into place.
- Use a rubber door stop to help you torque the fan bolts to 15-16 ft lbs.
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step 10 :Install the serpentine belt
- Locate your belt routing diagram
- Install the serpentine belt.
- Release the tension from the belt tensioner to loop the belt over the last pulley using a 3/8" drive ratchet.
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step 11 :Install the radiator
- Install the radiator, careful to move any wires or tubes out of the way.
- Insert the radiator into the mounts in the radiator support.
- Start your 4 bolts into the radiator and the 4 bolts in the fan shroud.
- Tighten the bolts firm, but you don't want to over tighten them.
- Connect the lower radiator hose.
- Use a pair of pliers to put the clamps into place.
- Repeat the process with the upper radiator hose
- Reconnect the radiator overflow tube.
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step 12 :Connect all your tubes and wiring and replace the trim plates.
- Reconnect the overflow tube
- Tighten up the clamps with a Phillips screwdriver.
- Bolt the engine trim down with a 10 mm socket and ratchet.
- Connect the Mass Airflow Sensor.
- Make sure all your hoses and wiring is connected and clipped into place.
- Make sure the petcock is tight and the lower radiator hoses are connected.
- Bolt up the skid plate with the eight bolts.
- Refill the radiator with Toyota or Universal coolant.
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step 13 :Reconnect the battery and test
- Use an 8 mm wrench to reconnect the negative battery terminal
- Start the vehicle up and let it idle.
- Check for any signs for leaking fluid.
- Wait for the engine to reach operating temperature, take the vehicle for a test drive.
- Check for dripping fluid.
- Let the vehicle cool down and check the radiator fluid again and fill appropriately.
Tools needed
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20mm Socket
Jack Stands
10mm Wrench
22mm Wrench
Drain Pan
Ratchet
Floor Jack
Needle nose pliers
11mm Wrench
12mm Wrench
13mm Wrench
11mm Socket
14mm Wrench
12mm Socket
13mm Socket
15mm Wrench
14mm Socket
Torque Wrench
16mm Wrench
17mm Wrench
15mm Socket
18mm Wrench
16mm Socket
17mm Socket
19mm Wrench
18mm Socket
19mm Socket
21mm Socket
21mm wrench
Flat Blade Screwdriver
Harmonic Balancer Puller
Phillips Head Screwdriver
Harmonic Balancer Holding Tool
10mm Socket
22mm Socket
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. This is Part 3 of replacing the timing belt in this 2002 Toyota Tundra. This is basically reassembling the front of the engine, putting the radiator and everything back in, and filling it with coolant, and making sure it's good to go. A brief look at the tools you'll need. Also in the beginning of the video you'll see how I make a tool to hold the harmonic balancer so you can tighten the bolt. We left off Part 2 ... had put the harmonic balancer pulley back on with a bolt, cranked the crank shaft around twice which turned the cam shafts once, and made sure that when the timing belt was at the zero ... back at zero, top dead center ... that the alignment marks for the cam shaft pulleys were lining up as well.
Now we'll head into torqueing the harmonic balancer bolt. Here is my special tool. It's a 2x4, just over 2 feet long with a large hole and two smaller holes. I'm going to bolt it in and show you how it works. Okay, now you can see what I've done. I've taken my harmonic balancer puller bolts and bolted the 2x4 to the harmonic balancer. This nice big hole is where I'm going to access the bolt with an extension. I've got a couple washers on here. You want to make sure that the bolts go through and hold enough and they're tight, pulling the board tight against the pulley here, but also that they're not coming though the back side and interfering. Then the board will hold itself against the frame there. Okay, two quick notes. The bolts I used to bolt the 2x 4 on are the bolts from the harmonic balancer puller. The other note is you can see that my timing mark is now way beyond zero degree. You do need to turn your balancer so that the 2x4 could be bolted on there. There are some items at the bottom that will interfere with it, so you have to have it in this position in order to bolt the board on there.
Put my torque wrench in there. Now you just unbolt that and we're all set. On this vehicle, that bolt should be torqued to 181 foot pounds. Now your belt tensioner needs to go back on here. Now that that belt tensioner goes back on ... So as I'm tightening these bolts for the tensioner ... basically note for all the bolts on the front end of the motor ... if it's a 10 mm, you want to tighten it between 10 and 12 foot pounds. 12 mm bolts you want to tighten between 15 and 20 foot pounds, and 14 mm bolts between 25 and 30 foot pounds. Here I lift up the alternator and slide it on to the stud at the front of the engine, start the bolt down below, and then start the nut on the top of the alternator. And now tighten that nut and the bolt holding the alternator up with a 14 mm socket and ratchet. Let's put our false water pump bracket back into place here. Make sure the wiring stays out of the way. Just a little close up. There's a large 14 mm bolt that goes in down low, right there, as I tighten it by hand. A 14 mm nut goes on right there, and then there's a 12 mm nut and a 12 mm bolt that goes in down low. You do leave a hole open that's right near the center of the engine, right between the pump and the serpentine belt tensioner. And speed it up as we tighten up those fasteners. Two reminders again: you're going to leave one hole seemingly open. It gets filled with a bolt when we put on the front cover. Then also be careful not to pinch any wiring in behind this part, especially down lower. Now reach down, pull the power steering pump back up and put it on to the stud that comes out of the front of the engine. Kind of pull it up and it will slide on.
Again, you can easily access the nut and two bolts just by turning the pulley, reaching through the holes, and then tighten them up, once again, to right around 30 foot pounds. Now I'll put the center plastic cover on with two long 12 mm bolts. These bolts do help hold the water pump in, so you want to make sure that you torque them to 17 foot pounds. Now we're going to put the right-hand, or passenger's side, timing chain cover on. There is a little tab down on the lower part that goes underneath the center cover. Make sure that that tab goes in, and then make sure that it goes on to the stud that protrudes out from the engine. Then put the three bolts and the nut on and tighten them lightly, about 7 to 10 or 12 foot-pounds, just firm, not extremely tight. Now you feed that left hand, or driver's side, cover in from the top, underneath the large set of wires. Then feed the crank sensor wire through. Again this one has a little tab down at the bottom, so make sure that's underneath the false water pump. Then I'm starting the bolts using my wrench to hand-tighten them. And then again tighten them firm, not too tight. Now here I can take the wire, pull it up, put the grommet on. Make sure the grommet is nice and firm, and reconnect the wire and put the wiring harnesses all back into their little clips that hold them in place. Here on the rectangular opening I have a little bit of sealant on there. You can use gasket sealant or RTV. I also have some sealant on the manifold itself. Make sure - there's another thing - I have some oil around the O ring just to make sure it slides in nicely, and also make sure the O ring is not twisted at all. Put the bolts in and feed it in. Get the bolts going and then tighten the bolts uniformly so that it presses straight in.
And like the other water pump bolts, these bolts should be tightened 17 to 20 foot pounds. Here I'm installing the oil cooler tube, the one that run from the top to bottom. One tip: put it on to the fittings, and then also get the nut and bolt that hold the brackets. Get those started before you put the clamps on. Remember there are three clamps. There are two at the top, and then one down low at the bottom. And again, tighten up the 10 mm nut and the 10 mm bolt down lower that hold this to the front of the engine. Here I'm putting on the idler pulley and the tensioner pulley. Just a note: you didn't really even have to remove the tensioner pulley, but I did just because I was falling away. I remembered to do it on a different vehicle. Put these on, and then tighten them up to anywhere between 25 and 30 foot pound. Now lift the AC compressor back into place. Obviously we're up underneath the vehicle now. Start the rear bolt first. Then I start the long bolt in front. Tighten those two up. And then I do the top one from the top. Now I'm going to put that reinforcement bracket back in there. Tip here: the 12 mm bolt in and start it first, and then start the 12 mm nut afterwards. Then tighten them up. Unfortunately I didn't get a good shot of it here, but obviously you need to tighten the top bolt up, and then there's a little bracket that screws down onto the top of the AC compressor. Put that Phillips screw in and tighten it. Then make sure you reconnect your AC compressor.
Now here we're going to put the fan pulley back on. Then put the fan back on and start the four nuts that hold it in place. As far as re-tightening the fan, holding it with your hand and tightening is enough to get it going. And then what I suggest is a rubber door stop. You can stick it down between the crank pulley and fan pulley, and that hold in place. You don't need to get it extremely tight. These bolts should be between 15 and 16 foot pounds. Here's our belt we're routing diagram, always very useful. Now we're just going to route the belt like the diagram tells us, which is basically you put a loop down around the crank shaft, up and around the water pump, around the AC compressor, across over the idler pulley - actually you leave it off the idle pulley at first - over around the power steering pump, alternator, and up towards the tensioner. Not sure how well you can see. My belt is routed on everything except basically the tensioner and the idler pulley so I'm going to take the tensioner, pull it down; get the belt correctly on the tensioner, and then pull the tensioner way down, and pull the belt up on to the idler pulley. Let the tensioner off. Check, make sure. It looks like everything is routed correctly. I'm going to take my fan shroud, put it down into place carefully. The fan is offset this way a little bit so the smaller side of the shroud goes to that side. Now I'll put the radiator down in. You just need to be careful. Look down in there as you slide it in. A couple things get in the way. There are some hoses and tubes and a wiring harness. Then is slides down in. There are a couple of tabs that support it. I'll show you right here the tabs that go into the radiator support area.
Now here we're going the put the fan shroud into place. Just make sure that the fan shroud and radiator, nothing is bound, nothing is caught, no wires or anything are pinched. Then we'll start the four bolts into our radiator, as well as the four bolts that hold the shroud. The ones that are on the radiator are the 12 mm bolts. The shroud is held on by 10 mm bolts. Then we'll tighten those up. And again, you want to tighten them firm, but do not over-tighten them. Put the passenger's side, or lower radiator hose in. Push it on the engine. Use a pair of pliers to put the clamp back in place. Put the upper radiator hose in place. Push it down on the engine side first, and then push it onto the radiator. And then again a pair of pliers, and put both clamps back into place. Reconnect the overflow tube. And we're going to speed through. Put the air duct back on. Make sure you tighten up those two Phillips screws that hold the big clamps in place, and as well as, put the clamp back on that holds the hose to the top of the air duct and your trim or engine identification panel on the top with the 10 mm nuts. We're going to make sure we hook our sensor back up. There's a hose that may have come off on the valve cover there. Then down lower make sure those hoses are back in the clamp and it's securely fastened. Make sure the petcock is tight. Connect the lower radiator hose and the transmission cooler hoses, and make sure all the clamps are in place. Now you can re-hang your skid plate. There are eight bolts that hold it in place. I'll thread those in here and then tighten those up. Again, tighten them up firm, not extremely tight though.
Now refill your radiator directly with either Toyota or a universal coolant. Generally it's probably going to take 2 1/2 to 3 gallons. Just put the radiator cap on. We add a little of the antifreeze to the reservoir. Reconnect the battery. Tighten it up. So we're running the truck, making sure it's up to operating temperature here. Run it a little bit. Check the engine. Obviously what we're checking for is any signs of leaking fluid. What you want to do ... let the engine idle a little bit. Make sure it's up at operating temperature. Take it for a drive for a while. And then again, check underneath, make sure there's no dripping fluid anywhere. Let it cool down. Remove the radiator cap. Check the level of fluid and fill it appropriately.
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