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How to Remove Bumper Cover 09-14 Nissan Murano

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How to Remove Bumper Cover 09-14 Nissan Murano

Created on: 2019-02-20

How to remove or replace a damaged, scratched, or broken front bumper cover on 09, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14 Nissan Murano

Tools needed for replacement

  • Pliers, Cutters & misc Wrenches

    Circlip Pliers

  • Ratchets & Related

    Socket Extensions


  • Screwdrivers & Related

    Flat Blade Screwdriver

  • Sockets - Metric

    10mm Socket

  • Star Drivers & Sockets

    T20 Driver

Installation Video
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Hi. I'm Mike from 1A Auto. We've been selling auto parts for over 30 years.

Hi, everyone. Sue here from 1A Auto, and today we have a 2010 Nissan Murano in the shop, and I'm going to show you how to remove the front bumper. If you need any parts for your car, click on the link below, and head on over to

The hood release for this Nissan Murano is on the driver's side, left foot kick panel. Reach down, you'll feel the handle. It's parallel, just going this way, and release it. The safety latch release is right here in the center to the right of the Nissan symbol. Just pull that lever over to the passenger side and lift up.

I'm going to start by removing all 14 clips on the top plastic cover to the grill, and you've got four that have a Phillips head to them, and the rest are just body-style clip. Pull the tab out and pull the clip out. Pull the last one, pull up this panel, pull up that. Okay. I take a pocket screwdriver and I just release those. That's how I pop those out.

Now we'll raise the vehicle on our two-post lift. You can use the jack and jack stands at home if you need to. We're going to start disconnecting all the beautiful body clips underneath, all the way across.

On each side, there's two little screws, but they have a Torx bit and it's a T20. There's one on the driver's side here and then ... There's two, I mean, on the driver's side, and then two over there on the passenger's side. There's two bolts in the front here holding the bottom part of this grill on our bumper cover, shall I say, to the radiator support. They're 10mm socket, and they're pretty rusted threads, so I hope that they come out and don't snap, like that. Well, I can predict my future. I don't know that. There you have it.

I'm just going to use a trim tool here, and I'm going to reach in and pop the fender skirt away so I can visually see the 10mm socket size bolt right there. I'm going to pry down the fender well and then I'll put my socket on there. And there's the exact same thing on the passenger side, so we're going to do the same thing over there.

Now, I'm taking my hand and putting it inside the fender well. With a firm grip, I'm just going to pop the actual rubber cover off of the clips and work my way around. Maybe I'll go to this side. And remove this shield. Push down on those pins, and that's how you take those lock tabs out. Then there seems to be one way over here, when they switched over to a flat tab. Pull that tab out. Now let's see if we can manipulate this out of here.

Now we're going to have to remove the chrome part of the grill, and you'll see there's four flat blade tabs on the... they're kind of hard to see, especially if I put my arm in there. But you're going to put your hand on the flat blade part, which, let me see if I can see one. There's one right here. And you're going to push up on the tab and push out on the plastic, and all I can say is good luck. I feel like I did.

I'm using a pair of needle nose pliers here to get this tab to release. I would love to say this is what you do, squeeze, push, pull [inaudible 00:05:17] I have 0.0 idea what I'm doing. I'm not going to lie. So, there's that clip.

All right. All I can say is you definitely have to have a little bit of patience with this particular design, because it's not easy to get to. I'm trying to get it so that we can put a light in here at the same time and see, because now these clips that you can't ... I can't get my hands in to them. You have to physically get in there and push those clips down. I'll try a hook this time. Push up on that tab.

What ended up popping it, truly, was, once again, my trusty little pocket screwdriver. Here are the tabs that are rather difficult to get to. You need to squeeze these tabs up in order for them to come through the flat-bladed cutout slots they have.

Okay. Now we've already done... we took the grill off. What seems to be holding the bumper itself on our ... There's three push pin tabs. I already took the middle one out earlier. Now I'm going to pull this side over here. Oh, that'll come out when I shake it. Then this one.

The last thing is a good strong flat blade screwdriver. Right here below this bolted slot, you'll see it's a push-pin. The only way I could get it is to go like this, pry on it, and pull that off.

I'm going to put the air box flow, vent flow guide. Now I'm going to carefully guide the bumper up into the spot. Basically, I want to put these plastic push pins right here for these reflectors back into place on both sides.

I'm going to line up the bumper trim right here, and I'm going to give it a firm push. Then I'm going to lock it in around, under the bottom of the headlight. Follow it around. Do the same on this side.

Now we're going to put our two mounting screws in, one on both sides, the exact same spot. It's a 10mm socket. Tighten that up. You have three push pin tabs where the bumper meets the metal bracket. One, and then here. It's rather a tight, challenging spot.

Now we can put this piece in before we put the grille on. These were the two pins that were the center push in. So, to reverse it, to install it, reverse it, push that pin out, line up the ... and then hit it flush. We want it to look just like that.

Now we're going to put our chrome piece back on the bumper, with the grill itself. Going to line up the two bottom tabs first, right in the center, and the rest will follow suit. Just give a firm push till they click in. The top two points have these kind of clips that they're just... I don't know. Hopefully they lock in. They go right through, right there.

Now we're going to put the push clips that have the Phillips marking on them. Basically you just put them in place, take a small pocket screwdriver, or Phillips, and just twist them down till they lock. Then there's the two outer edges here, one on the passenger side, ooh, watch out for the glove, and then one on the driver side.

Now we have the aesthetic plastic-looking piece. These are pretty self-explanatory where they sit, and these are all just push pins all the way around.

Now we're going to put the screw in on the fender well part. It's a 10mm socket. Okay. Do the same bolt on the driver's side. Now with a plastic body clip tool, I'm just going to fold that fender flare back into the well on both sides.

As you can see how rusted these were. You saw how they broke on the removal. They're located here. They keep the wind dam tight, and then you put the underskirt on them. We actually have some push pins that are wide enough, and I'm just going to replace them with that, and lock it in place.

Out of all of the push-pins, the two smallest ones go here on the outer edges. Going to put these mud flap screws in first. This is the T20. There's two on both sides, shall I say, passenger side, driver's side. Last two clips. There we go.

Thanks for watching. Visit us at for quality auto parts, fast and free shipping, and the best customer service in the industry.

Tools needed for replacement:

    Pliers, Cutters & misc Wrenches

  • Circlip Pliers

  • Ratchets & Related

  • Socket Extensions
  • Ratchet

  • Screwdrivers & Related

  • Flat Blade Screwdriver

  • Sockets - Metric

  • 10mm Socket

  • Star Drivers & Sockets

  • T20 Driver

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