Honda Civic Front & Rear Steering, Suspension, & Drivetrain Kit TRQ PSA66748

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Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks!

In this video, we're going to show you front sway bar link replacement. This is a 2003 Honda Civic, it's pretty much the same for a 2001 to 2005 Civic, as well as some other Honda vehicles. We show you on the driver side, but the passenger side is the exact same procedure, and if one side is broken on your car, most likely replacing the other side is a good idea as well.

Items you'll need include new stabilizer link or links from 1AAuto.com, 14mm wrench, a 19mm socket and breaker bar or tire iron, 5mm hex bit, ratchet and extension, and, as you'll see, we used a reciprocating saw, so you might find that you'll need one too.

We'll remove the front wheel, held on by four 19mm lug nuts. If you have a different style hubcap you'll need to remove that, but just use a breaker bar or your tire iron and loosen the lug nuts while the tire is on the ground. Now raise and support the vehicle. Now remove the lug nuts the rest of the way, and the wheel and tire.

For this repair, you want to make sure that you have your vehicle level. You need to raise up the front of the vehicle and support both sides, and you can turn the wheel. Your link is right here.

First thing we're going to do is just use a wire brush and some penetrating oil to try and clean off these threads as much as we can to make it easier to get apart. 14mm wrench, put it on here, and turn counterclockwise. It looks like this is already spinning, so 5mm hex socket. You may want to make sure that your bit's in there, hammer 'til you drive it in.

We've gotten the bottom one loosened up, put the wrench on the top one, and then we'll do the same thing, we'll drive the 5mm hex socket in. We've got it loosened up, and what's happened is what happens a lot on these. These lock-nuts actually bind up more and more as you get them off, and they get harder and harder, and then the 5mm hex strips out. What most shops do is they don't even bother with the nuts, they just cut these off right from the beginning.

Using a torch can be intimidating, so we're going to just show you how to use a reciprocating saw. We've got a set of locking pliers on there just to hold it in place a little bit. Now we'll just cut it off. Now the upper one, again, holding it with my locking pliers.

Here's the new part from 1A Auto. I like this design a little better since it has the hex on the end, but also has bolt head, so you can hold it with a wrench on the backside. We'll go and install that.

Put it in and start the nut on the backside. Put the bottom into the control arm, thread your nut on, and the technical spec on these is 29 foot-pounds. It's easy enough to get a torque wrench on this one, but getting a torque wrench on the inner one is pretty difficult.

Put your wheel back in place, start your lug nuts, we'll tighten them preliminarily, and then torque them when the vehicle's back down on the ground. Then tighten your lug nuts, 80 foot-pounds and just cross in the pattern.

Any time you do work on your brakes, make sure you pump the pedal. Get a nice firm pedal before you test drive the vehicle.

Thanks for tuning in. We hope this video helped you out. Next time you need parts for your car, please visit 1AAuto.com. Also check out our other helpful how-to and diagnosis videos.

Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.

Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.

In this video, we're going to show you how to lower front ball joints on this 2003 Honda Civic purchased aim for 2001 to 2005 Civics. We show you on the driver side, but the passenger side is the same procedure.

You'll need new lower front ball joints from 1AAuto.com, 7 to 22 millimeter sockets with wrenches, ratchets and extensions, 32 millimeter socket and air tools, breaker bar or tire iron, pry bar, torque wrench, small hammer and/or mallet, needle nose pliers, flat head and Phillips screwdrivers, jack and jack stands, and a ball joint press.

Remove the front wheel held on by four 19 millimeter lug nuts. If you have a different style hubcap, you'll need to remove that, but just use a breaker bar or your tire iron and loosen the lug nuts while the tire is on the ground. Now, raise and support the vehicle. Now, remove the lug nuts the rest of the way and the wheel and tire.

Using a tapered punch, remove the band from the axle nut. Using the pry bar on the wheel studs to prevent the hub from turning, use a 32mm socket and breaker bar to loosen the axle nut. Using a 17mm socket and ratchet remove the caliper bracket bolts. Remove the caliper and caliper bracket assembly, hang it out of the way using a bungee cord, mechanics' wire. You can use a zip tie, anything you have to keep it up and out of the way somewhere where it's safe. We're just going to hang ours up on a strut with a bungee cord. You'll be able to access this just fine on the jack and jack stand.

Going to undo this cotter pin at the bottom of the ball joint, and just bend this tab out, pry the pin out with a pair of needle nose and undo the nut on the bottom of the ball joint. Using the 17mm socket and a breaker bar, going to unbolt the bottom of the ball joint. Before the nut comes all the way off, use a hammer, tap up. If that won't release the ball joint, tap on the sides. If hitting the nut on the bottom of the ball joint or the sides of the control arm don't free it, you can always use a ball joint separator or pickle fork. Using the 22mm socket, remove the bolts from the strut. Remove the bolts themselves.

Using the 10mm socket and ratchet, unbolt the wheel speed center from the spindle. Remove the sensor. You may need to use a pair of pliers to work the sensor. Tap the center of the CV axle to free it from the hub. Remove the spindle from the vehicle.

Install the cup of the press over this ring on the top side of the ball joint. You want to ensure that it fits in there with enough room so that the ball joint can be pressed up into this cup. This jig sits onto the stud of the ball joint. This cup keeps us from damaging the ends of our threads. Install your press onto these tools. Keep it centered as best you can. You can use the 22 millimeter socket on the breaker bar to tighten down on the press. Push our ball joint out.

This can also be done with an impact gun if your particular tool allows for it to speed things up. Back off your press. Remove your old ball joint. If you have excessive play in your ball joints or clunks over bumps, this lower ball joint could be at fault. If that's the case, this new part from 1A Auto is going to fix you up right.

Take your new ball joint, and send it through from the spindle down. Going to install the cup, larger than the ball joint, over the bottom. Put the top of our ball joint press onto the top of our new ball joint. Install our flat cup over the bottom. Get everything nice and straight. Press it in with our impact gun and a 22 millimeter socket. Bring it in until the ball joint bottoms out in the spindle. Small pair of needle nose pliers that will fit into the holes on the snap ring or a proper pair of snap ring pliers, install the snap ring onto the base of your ball joint. Make sure it sits down all the way and into the grooves. With a punch and hammer, just to make sure that everything is seated down in there properly. Remember to remove the nut from your ball joint, in our case a 19 millimeter, before we install it into the vehicle.

To install the lower ball joint into the hole with a control arm, make sure the ball joint is seated in to the control arm and that your CV axle is lined up. Line up the bolts for the top of your strut. Install the bolts through your strut into your spindle. These are going to go from the front of the car with the nut toward the back. Torque the strut bolts to 116 foot-pounds with a 19 millimeter socket on the bolt side and a 22 millimeter wrench on the nut.

Using a 32mm axle nut socket, install your axle nut. Use the pry bar to stop your hub from rotating and torque your axle nut to 134 foot-pounds. Using a punch or chisel, dent the outer ring of the axle nut into the keeper groove on the axle. Reinstall the wheel speed sensor into the hub. If you have to you can give it a couple of taps in with a rubber mallet, reinstall the 10mm bolt. The cast nut from the bottom of the ball joint has windows that need to align with this hole so we can install the cotter pin after it's tight. The torque spec is 43 to 51 foot-pounds, as you may have to tighten it up a little to get the windows to align. 43 is pretty close, send your cotter pin through the slot, take the longer side, bend it underneath, take the shorter size, trim it down.

Reinstall your brake rotor. Be sure to install the beveled hole of your rotor, over the screw hole in the hub. Reinstall your screw with a number 2 Phillips. Remove your caliper from wherever you hung it. Spread your pads in the carrier, reinstall the assembly onto the rotor in the back.

Tighten up your 17mm caliper bolts. Torque your caliper bolts to 80 foot-pounds. Put your wheel back in place. Start your lug nuts, we'll tighten them preliminarily and torque them when the vehicle's back down on the ground. Tighten your lug nuts 80 foot-pounds and just cross in the pattern.

Thanks for tuning in. We hope this video helped you out. Next time you need parts for your car, please visit 1AAuto.com. Also check out our other helpful how-to and diagnosis videos.

Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet.

Hi, I'm Jeremy from 1AAuto. I'm going to help you fix your car today, and the next time you need parts for your car think of 1AAuto.com. Thank you.

In this video, we're going to show you how to replace the front brakes on a 2003 Honda Civic. It's pretty much the same for a 2001-2005 Honda Civic. The tools that you'll need for this job include a jack and jack stands, 19mm socket and breaker bar, 12mm wrench, 17mm wrench, Phillips screwdriver, large c-clamp, wire brush, some anti-seize, and a torque wrench.

The first step is to break the lug nuts loose, and you do that by leaving the car on the ground so that the wheel doesn't spin when you lift up on it. Here we go. Now we're going to raise the car up and take the wheel off. Now we're going to pull it off.

The next step is to pull these two screws out of the rotor. Normally they're stuck in there really tight, so I try to use a screwdriver first, and then go on to more drastic measures if need be. These are actually coming out.

The next step is to remove these two 12mm bolts that hold the caliper to the caliper bracket. You can use a ratchet or the style wrench. One trick is to connect the two wrenches together, and then bump them with your fist so you can pull them out. The next thing I like to do is pull the caliper really hard toward me so that it compresses the piston inside the caliper. It makes the caliper loose, making it easier to remove. Remove the caliper.

Now we can take the brake pads out. These ones are in pretty good shape, so we'll probably end up putting these right back in. Then you're going to take off the caliper bracket, which, once again, you can use the same method of linking the wrenches together to break it loose. Now the caliper bracket is off.

Now that we have the caliper bracket off, we can take off the rotor, as you can see.

For reinstall, place the rotor back on the hub. Apply a little anti-seize to the Phillips screws, and put them back in the rotor. Clean up the brake pad slides to make sure that they're not going to make the brake pad bind up and cause uneven brake pad wear. Now we have the caliper bracket that needs to go back on.

Then we can put the bracket right back on after it's nice and clean. We are now ready to put the brake pads in. Normally, they're brand new and you can just slide them in, where this one is used. I'm probably going to put a little anti-seize on this as well. It does exactly what it is called, and it prevents the brake pads from sticking in the slides. You can see the squeaker right here. This is the thing that makes all the noise whenever you need new brake pads. That goes right here on the inside. You're going to need to compress this caliper. The best way to do that is actually with a giant C-clamp. As you can see, as you tighten the C-clamp, it pushes the piston in. Pretty awesome, right? Now it's completely compressed and you can pull the C-clamp out.

Like I said before, put the caliper on. Here's the caliper bolts. Once again, anti-seize. If you live in a dry climate, these things won't be rusty, but in New England, they're always rusty. Voila, your brakes are back together again.

It's now time to put the tire back on. Slide the wheel into place and tighten the lug nuts preliminarily. Lower the vehicle to the ground. The last step is to torque the wheels. I usually a hundred foot-pounds on pretty much all the wheels that I tighten. Basically, grab your torque wrench, always do it in a cross pattern so that the wheel goes on straight. Now the pedal's pumped and the brakes feel good again.

Hopefully this video has helped you out. You can visit us at 1AAuto.com for replacement parts and the best service on the internet.

Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.

Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks!

In this video, we're going to show you a front axle replacement. This is a 2003 Honda Civic, same for a 2001 to 2005 Civic. We show you on the driver's side, passenger side is the same procedure. Items you'll need include a new axle from 1AAuto.com, 10mm to 21mm sockets with wrenches, ratchets, extensions. You also need a 32mm socket, and we highly recommend having air tools, breaker bar/tire iron, torque wrench, small hammer, needle-nose pliers, penetrating oil, jack and jack stands, pry bar and a drain pan. It's probably a good idea to have a front end alignment done after this repair as well.

We'll remove the front wheel, held on by four 19mm lug nuts. If you have a different style hub cap, you'll need to remove that, but just use a breaker bar or your tire iron and loosen the lug nuts while the tire is on the ground. Now raise and support the vehicle. Now remove the lug nuts the rest of the way, and the wheel and tire.

For this 32mm nut on the end of your axle, there's two options. You can take your wheel off, take your center cap out of the wheel, put the wheel back on, put the vehicle on the ground, have somebody hold the brakes, and use a large breaker bar and try and remove it. We highly recommend having an impact wrench for this because this can be difficult to get off. Then, with the nut off, just want to make sure your axle is free from the hub, which it is.

You want to remove this 12mm bolt and this 10mm bolt. They hold the brake hose and the sensor wire. Remove the two 12mm bolts that hold the brake caliper in place, here and here. If necessary, use a flat blade screwdriver or pry bar, pry out on the caliper a little bit to loosen it up, and then you can take the caliper off. Take the bungee cord and just secure your caliper back here so that you don't stress the brake hose. Now, we're going to remove the pinch bolts, 21mm nuts and 19mm bolts, 21mm socket and a breaker bar. Get the nuts started and once the bolts start moving, then hold them and take them off. Helps if you turn your wheel to the outside. Remove your bolts that hold the strut and carefully let this down.

Push your axle through. Have a pry bar or a big screw driver handy just to help you get it out. Hold the axle out from there. Good idea to have a drain pan underneath where the axle goes into the transmission, then take a good sized pry bar, get it between the axle and transmission, and pry out. Now you can bring your axle right out.

Here's the old part from the vehicle and the new part from 1A Auto. Visually, there's some slight differences, but it's going to go in and install just like the original and fix up your problem.

Take the new axle and feed it into place, put it into place, and then you kind of have to just push it in. Take the nut off, we do keep it on there just to protect the threads on the axle while we're installing it. Then put the axle in place, bring this up, and you may have to just kind of spin the axle a little bit, get the axle in place, put the knuckle up into, a lot of times it's easier to start the bottom strut bolt first and then you can push in to get the top one in place. Put the axle nut in place, and we'll tighten it up when the vehicle's on the ground.

Reinstall the caliper. Remove your bungee or whatever you might have holding it. Make sure you have some grease on your pads to prevent squeaking. You have to push your slides in a little bit to get it to go on. Tighten these to 25 foot-pounds.

Reinstall these brackets. 10mm bolt holds the sensor wire and the 12mm bolt holds the brake hose. Put them in and tighten them up. If you've got any grease or anything on your rotors, make sure you wheel back in place.

Start your lug nuts, and we'll tighten them preliminarily, and then torque them when the vehicle's back down on the ground. We'll torque our lug nuts to 80 foot-pounds first. Tighten and then torque the center nut to 134 foot-pounds or 180 newton meters. With these wheels, you may find to get the best angle to dent that hub nut, you may have to take the wheel back off, use a punch or a big screwdriver and dent the nut down and replace your cap.

Thanks for tuning in. We hope this video helped you out. Next time you need parts for your car, please visit 1AAuto.com. Also check out our other helpful how-to and diagnosis videos.

Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.

Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.

In this video, we show you how to replace the front hub and bearing on this 2003 Honda Civic. It’s the same for any 2001-05 Civic, as well as some other vehicles.

You'll need a new front hub and bearing assembly from 1AAuto.com, 10 to 19mm sockets, wrenches, extension, ratchet extension, a 32mm socket, air tools, breaker bar, tire iron, torque wrench, small hammer and rubber mallet, needle-nose pliers, flat head and Philips screwdrivers, Jack and Jack stands, pry bar, paper punch and you will need a press or access to a press for this repair.

Remove the front wheel, held on by four 19mm lug nuts. If you have a different style hubcap, you'll need to remove that, but just use a breaker bar or your tire iron and loosen the lug nuts while the tire is on the ground. Now raise and support the vehicle. Now remove the lug nuts the rest of the way and the wheel and tire.

Using a tapered punch, remove the band from the axle nut. Using the pry bar on the wheel studs to prevent the hub from turning, use a 32mm socket and breaker bar to loosen the axle nut. Using a 17mm socket and ratchet remove the caliper bracket bolts. Remove the caliper and caliper bracket assembly, hang it out of the way using a bungee cord, mechanics' wire. You can use a zip tie, anything you have to keep it up and out of the way somewhere where it's safe. We're just going to hang ours up on a strut with a bungee cord. You'll be able to access this just fine on the Jack and Jack stand.

Going to undo this cotter pin at the bottom of the ball joint, and just bend this tab out, pry the pin out with a pair of needle nose and undo the nut on the bottom of the ball joint. Using the 17mm socket and a breaker bar, going to unbolt the bottom of the ball joint. Before the nut comes all the way off, use a hammer, tap up. If that won't release the ball joint, tap on the sides. If hitting the nut on the bottom of the ball joint or the sides of the control arm don't free it, you can always use a ball joint separator or pickle fork. Using the 22mm socket, remove the bolts from the strut. Remove the bolts themselves.

Using the 10mm socket and ratchet, unbolt the wheel speed center from the spindle. Remove the sensor. You may need to use a pair of pliers to work the sensor. Tap the center of the CV axle to free it from the hub. Remove the spindle from the vehicle. At this point, you'll need a hydraulic press, and first you want to press the hub out of the bearing. There's the hub pressed out. Then you'll want to remove the three screws that hold the backing plate on and remove the backing plate. Now there's a snap ring here that needs to be removed. Use snap ring pliers or needle nose pliers, squeeze the snap ring and pry out with a flat blade screwdriver.

Now using the appropriate adapters, press the bearing out. Now press the new bearing back into the steering knuckle. Replace the snap ring. Replace the backing plate, put in the three screws and tighten them. You're actually going to put support on the back of the inner bearing.

New hub from 1AAuto will go right in. You do press it in until it bottoms out. The spindle, new hub, new ball joint. You install the lower ball joint into the hole in the control arm, make sure your ball joint seated into the control arm. Get your CV axles lined up, line up the bolts with the top of your strut, install the bolts through your strut into your spindle. These are going to go from the front of the car with the nut toward the back. Torque the strut bolts to 116 foot-pounds with a 19mm socket on the bolt side and a 22mm wrench on the nut.

Using a 32mm axle nut socket, install your axle nut. Use the pry bar to stop your hub from rotating and torque your axle nut to 134 foot-pounds. Using a punch or chisel, dent the outer ring of the axle nut into the keeper groove on the axle. Reinstall the wheel speed sensor into the hub. If you have to you can give it a couple of taps in with a rubber mallet, reinstall the 10mm bolt. The cast nut from the bottom of the ball joint has windows that need to align with this hole so we can install the cotter pin after it's tight. The torque spec is 43 to 51 foot-pounds, as you may have to tighten it up a little to get the windows to align. 43 is pretty close, send your cotter pin through the slot, take the longer side, bend it underneath, take the shorter size, trim it down.

Reinstall your brake rotor. Be sure to install the beveled hole of your rotor, over the screw hole in the hub. Reinstall your screw with a number 2 Phillips. Remove your caliper from wherever you hung it. Spread your pads in the carrier, reinstall the assembly onto the rotor in the back.

Tighten up your 17mm caliper bolts. Torque your caliper bolts to 80 foot-pounds. Put your wheel back in place. Start your lug nuts, we'll tighten them preliminarily and torque them when the vehicle's back down on the ground. Tighten your lug nuts 80 foot-pounds and just cross in the pattern.

Thanks for tuning in. We hope this video helped you out. Next time you need parts for your car, please visit 1AAuto.com. Also check out our other helpful how-to and diagnosis videos.