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1A Auto Lifetime Warranty
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Part Details
TRQ suspension kits are manufactured using premium raw materials and coatings for extended service life. Each TRQ suspension component is designed to be a direct, maintenance-free replacement to the stock unit. To extend the life of your steering and suspension components, TRQ recommends replacing components in pairs, sets, or kits. All products are fit and road-tested in our Massachusetts R&D facility to ensure we deliver on our promise of Trusted Reliable Quality.
Product Features
Install Tip: When replacing steering components, have a professional alignment performed afterwards. This ensures proper tracking and even tire wear.
Our steering and suspension components are pre-greased and sealed for long life and do not require the extra maintenance typically required by greaseable versions.
Item Condition:
New
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Chromium (Hexavalent Compounds), which is known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
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Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks!
In this video, we're going to show you front sway bar link replacement. This is a 2003 Honda Civic, it's pretty much the same for a 2001 to 2005 Civic, as well as some other Honda vehicles. We show you on the driver side, but the passenger side is the exact same procedure, and if one side is broken on your car, most likely replacing the other side is a good idea as well.
Items you'll need include new stabilizer link or links from 1AAuto.com, 14mm wrench, a 19mm socket and breaker bar or tire iron, 5mm hex bit, ratchet and extension, and, as you'll see, we used a reciprocating saw, so you might find that you'll need one too.
We'll remove the front wheel, held on by four 19mm lug nuts. If you have a different style hubcap you'll need to remove that, but just use a breaker bar or your tire iron and loosen the lug nuts while the tire is on the ground. Now raise and support the vehicle. Now remove the lug nuts the rest of the way, and the wheel and tire.
For this repair, you want to make sure that you have your vehicle level. You need to raise up the front of the vehicle and support both sides, and you can turn the wheel. Your link is right here.
First thing we're going to do is just use a wire brush and some penetrating oil to try and clean off these threads as much as we can to make it easier to get apart. 14mm wrench, put it on here, and turn counterclockwise. It looks like this is already spinning, so 5mm hex socket. You may want to make sure that your bit's in there, hammer 'til you drive it in.
We've gotten the bottom one loosened up, put the wrench on the top one, and then we'll do the same thing, we'll drive the 5mm hex socket in. We've got it loosened up, and what's happened is what happens a lot on these. These lock-nuts actually bind up more and more as you get them off, and they get harder and harder, and then the 5mm hex strips out. What most shops do is they don't even bother with the nuts, they just cut these off right from the beginning.
Using a torch can be intimidating, so we're going to just show you how to use a reciprocating saw. We've got a set of locking pliers on there just to hold it in place a little bit. Now we'll just cut it off. Now the upper one, again, holding it with my locking pliers.
Here's the new part from 1A Auto. I like this design a little better since it has the hex on the end, but also has bolt head, so you can hold it with a wrench on the backside. We'll go and install that.
Put it in and start the nut on the backside. Put the bottom into the control arm, thread your nut on, and the technical spec on these is 29 foot-pounds. It's easy enough to get a torque wrench on this one, but getting a torque wrench on the inner one is pretty difficult.
Put your wheel back in place, start your lug nuts, we'll tighten them preliminarily, and then torque them when the vehicle's back down on the ground. Then tighten your lug nuts, 80 foot-pounds and just cross in the pattern.
Any time you do work on your brakes, make sure you pump the pedal. Get a nice firm pedal before you test drive the vehicle.
Thanks for tuning in. We hope this video helped you out. Next time you need parts for your car, please visit 1AAuto.com. Also check out our other helpful how-to and diagnosis videos.
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Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks!
In this video, we're going to show you how to replace the lower control arm on the front of this 2003 Honda Civic, same for 2001 to 2005. We show you the driver side, but the passenger side is the same procedure. You'll need a new control arm from 1AAuto.com, and if you're going to replace one side, you might as well replace both. We do sell them as a pair. 12 to 22 millimeter sockets and wrenches with ratchets and extensions, 5 millimeter hex socket, flat-blade screwdriver, large size, breaker bar or tire iron, flex joint, hammer with a small, large, and a rubber mallet, pry bar, locking and needle-nose pliers, jack and jack stands, wire brush, penetrating oil, and we needed a reciprocating saw on ours, because we ran into an issue with the stabilizer link. You may or may not need that for yours.
Remove the front wheel, held on by four 19 millimeter lug nuts. If you have a different style hubcap, you'll need to remove that, but just use a breaker bar or your tire iron, and just loosen the lug nuts while the tire is on the ground. Now raise and support the vehicle. Now remove the lug nuts the rest of the way, and the wheel and tire.
For this repair, you want to make sure that you have your vehicle level. You need to support, you need to raise up the front of the vehicle and support both sides. You can turn the wheel and your link is right here. First thing we're going to do is just use a wire brush and some penetrating oil and try to clean off these threads as much as we can to make it easier to get it apart.
14 millimeter wrench, put it on here and turn counterclockwise. Looks like this is already spinning, so use a 5 millimeter hex socket. Ideally, at this point, the nut to the lower stabilizer link comes off, and you can just separate the stabilizer link from the control arm. Ours was much more difficult, and we wound up having to cut it off, and then we ended up replacing the whole stabilizer link. If you do that, we do sell the stabilizer link at 1A Auto as well.
Lower control arm is held on. There's a nut here. You have to remove a cotter pin, and then there's a bolt here and a bolt up through here. We'll start by removing the cotter pin here. This is the pin, you just grab ahold of the side, pull it out, and then pull the pin out. To remove this lower ball joint nut, it's 17 millimeter. Just remove it that much for now.
19 millimeter wrench, put it on, then use a bigger, I'm using a 20 millimeter wrench. Lock it in to give myself a little extra leverage. That one loosened up, loosen this one up, and, again, it's a 19 millimeter. Now I'm just going to loosen these bolts up until they're about ready to come out. Just going to try and break the ball joint free, and usually a few good hits from a good sized hammer does the job. We're free here, the bolts are ready to come out. Leave that one out, should be able to kind of move it around, sometimes you might hit it a little bit, but line it up. This bolt'll come out. Okay, remove this nut the rest of the way.
Original part from the vehicle, and the rubber bushing in this one is pretty dried out and cracked. The part from 1A Auto, exactly the same, it's going to go in there, obviously brand new bushings. All the right mounting points, fix you up.
Reinstall, kind of up into place. Ball joint on, and just put your nut on. Push it into place to make sure the font mount is going in, and then push the rear mount in. I stick my body against the rotor, lift up, and lock your bolt in place.
We've got our ball joint and nut on, we've got that, the rear bolt in, so we've just got to get this one. We'll try using a rubber mallet at first, just so we don't harm our new finish. Then once you get it in, lock it so you can get the bolt in. You can take a long screwdriver and pull on it, try and get it lined up so the bolt will go right up and in through. Sometimes you'll have to push on it here to get the bolt all the way in.
Now we're going to tighten up the 19 millimeter bolts preliminarily. In order to hold the ball joint in place while you tighten it up, you'll want to use a jack, lift the control arm up into place a little bit. Tap the control arm, get the knuckle to sit down in. Tighten this to 43 foot-pounds. Try to put your pin in, if necessary, tighten a little further to open up the hole. Need to tap it over here.
Okay, in order to tighten the two 19 millimeter bolts, you want to simulate ride position, so support the suspension. Get that jacked up so the weight's just off the lift, and we're going to torque these to 61 foot-pounds.
Used a couple extra pounds, because I had a flex joint on that one. Reconnect your stabilizer link. Again, we sell new ones at 1AAuto.com. Put the nut on and tighten it up. It's easy enough to get a torque wrench on this one, but getting a torque wrench on the inner one is pretty difficult.
Put your wheel back in place. Start your lug nuts, we'll tighten them preliminarily, and then torque them when the vehicle is back down on the ground. Tighten your lug nuts 80 foot-pounds, and just cross in the pattern.
Thanks for tuning in. We hope this video helped you out. Next time you need parts for your car, please visit 1AAuto.com. Also check out our other helpful how-to and diagnosis videos.
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Tools used
Tools used
Tools used
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks!
In this video, we're going to show you how to replace the outer tie rod. This is a 2003 Honda Civic. It's the same for the 2001 to 2005 Honda Civic, as well as a couple of other Honda models. We show you this on the driver side, but the passenger side is the same procedure. Items you'll need include a new outer tie rod or tie rods from 1AAuto.com, 17mm to 24mm sockets, wrenches and ratchet, a torque wrench, breaker bar or tire iron, small hammer, needle nose pliers, and some penetrating oil.
Remove the front wheel held on by 19mm lug nuts. If you have a different style hubcap, you'll need to remove that. Just use a breaker bar or your tire iron and loosen your lug nuts while the tire is on the ground. Raise and support the vehicle. Now, remove the rest of the lug nuts the rest of the way, and the wheel and tire.
The outer tie rod is right here; 17mm nuts hold it in here. Remove the cotter pin. Then there's a 21mm lock nut, which we're going to use a nice 21mm wrench. As you're looking at it, you're turning it clockwise. We're just going to turn that about a quarter of a turn. If, when you turn this lock nut, you also turn the inner tire rod, just make note of it so that you can turn it back for the same amount, just so that you can get yourself in a good preliminary alignment. You will want to have your vehicle aligned after you do this repair.
Remove the cotter pin. Normally, the pin should drive out easily, but it's giving us a hard time. We're going to use a little bit of penetrating oil. Let it sit for a bit. You may have to use a set of these cutting pliers. We really get half of the cotter pin off. A lot of times, if you've got it off and pretty well damaged, you can just pull the nut off and it will shear it right off as it comes off. Give the steering knuckle a few good taps with the hammer to break the tie rod free. Now, you can just take your tie rod right off.
Old part from the vehicle, new tie rod in from 1A Auto. You can see it's exactly the same. Take the castle nut off. New part comes with a new lock nut and a cotter pin. If you like, you can grab hold of your inner tie rod, free up your existing lock nut, and take it off. Not necessary though if you can put the new tie rod on and use the existing lock nut that's on there already. Put the tie rod in. It should go right around to about where it was.
Reinstall your tie rod. Put the castle nut on. Tighten the castle nut to 32-ft/lbs. Then tighten it any more you need to get the cotter pin through the hole in the tie rod. I can see the hole there. Probably need to go another 16th of a turn. Insert the cotter pin.
Use a pair of piers and bend it over. Appropriate size wrench to hold the tie rod; in this case, it's an 18mm. Then 24mm to get our lock nut on the back. Tighten it up.
Put your wheel back in place. Start your lug nuts. We'll tighten them preliminarily and then torque them when the vehicle is back down on the ground. Tighten your lug nuts 80-ft lbs and just cross in the pattern.
Thanks for tuning in. We hope this video helped you out. Next time you need parts for your car, please visit 1AAuto.com. Also check out our other helpful how-to and diagnosis videos.
Tools used
Tools used
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we're going to show you how to lower front ball joints on this 2003 Honda Civic purchased aim for 2001 to 2005 Civics. We show you on the driver side, but the passenger side is the same procedure.
You'll need new lower front ball joints from 1AAuto.com, 7 to 22 millimeter sockets with wrenches, ratchets and extensions, 32 millimeter socket and air tools, breaker bar or tire iron, pry bar, torque wrench, small hammer and/or mallet, needle nose pliers, flat head and Phillips screwdrivers, jack and jack stands, and a ball joint press.
Remove the front wheel held on by four 19 millimeter lug nuts. If you have a different style hubcap, you'll need to remove that, but just use a breaker bar or your tire iron and loosen the lug nuts while the tire is on the ground. Now, raise and support the vehicle. Now, remove the lug nuts the rest of the way and the wheel and tire.
Using a tapered punch, remove the band from the axle nut. Using the pry bar on the wheel studs to prevent the hub from turning, use a 32mm socket and breaker bar to loosen the axle nut. Using a 17mm socket and ratchet remove the caliper bracket bolts. Remove the caliper and caliper bracket assembly, hang it out of the way using a bungee cord, mechanics' wire. You can use a zip tie, anything you have to keep it up and out of the way somewhere where it's safe. We're just going to hang ours up on a strut with a bungee cord. You'll be able to access this just fine on the jack and jack stand.
Going to undo this cotter pin at the bottom of the ball joint, and just bend this tab out, pry the pin out with a pair of needle nose and undo the nut on the bottom of the ball joint. Using the 17mm socket and a breaker bar, going to unbolt the bottom of the ball joint. Before the nut comes all the way off, use a hammer, tap up. If that won't release the ball joint, tap on the sides. If hitting the nut on the bottom of the ball joint or the sides of the control arm don't free it, you can always use a ball joint separator or pickle fork. Using the 22mm socket, remove the bolts from the strut. Remove the bolts themselves.
Using the 10mm socket and ratchet, unbolt the wheel speed center from the spindle. Remove the sensor. You may need to use a pair of pliers to work the sensor. Tap the center of the CV axle to free it from the hub. Remove the spindle from the vehicle.
Install the cup of the press over this ring on the top side of the ball joint. You want to ensure that it fits in there with enough room so that the ball joint can be pressed up into this cup. This jig sits onto the stud of the ball joint. This cup keeps us from damaging the ends of our threads. Install your press onto these tools. Keep it centered as best you can. You can use the 22 millimeter socket on the breaker bar to tighten down on the press. Push our ball joint out.
This can also be done with an impact gun if your particular tool allows for it to speed things up. Back off your press. Remove your old ball joint. If you have excessive play in your ball joints or clunks over bumps, this lower ball joint could be at fault. If that's the case, this new part from 1A Auto is going to fix you up right.
Take your new ball joint, and send it through from the spindle down. Going to install the cup, larger than the ball joint, over the bottom. Put the top of our ball joint press onto the top of our new ball joint. Install our flat cup over the bottom. Get everything nice and straight. Press it in with our impact gun and a 22 millimeter socket. Bring it in until the ball joint bottoms out in the spindle. Small pair of needle nose pliers that will fit into the holes on the snap ring or a proper pair of snap ring pliers, install the snap ring onto the base of your ball joint. Make sure it sits down all the way and into the grooves. With a punch and hammer, just to make sure that everything is seated down in there properly. Remember to remove the nut from your ball joint, in our case a 19 millimeter, before we install it into the vehicle.
To install the lower ball joint into the hole with a control arm, make sure the ball joint is seated in to the control arm and that your CV axle is lined up. Line up the bolts for the top of your strut. Install the bolts through your strut into your spindle. These are going to go from the front of the car with the nut toward the back. Torque the strut bolts to 116 foot-pounds with a 19 millimeter socket on the bolt side and a 22 millimeter wrench on the nut.
Using a 32mm axle nut socket, install your axle nut. Use the pry bar to stop your hub from rotating and torque your axle nut to 134 foot-pounds. Using a punch or chisel, dent the outer ring of the axle nut into the keeper groove on the axle. Reinstall the wheel speed sensor into the hub. If you have to you can give it a couple of taps in with a rubber mallet, reinstall the 10mm bolt. The cast nut from the bottom of the ball joint has windows that need to align with this hole so we can install the cotter pin after it's tight. The torque spec is 43 to 51 foot-pounds, as you may have to tighten it up a little to get the windows to align. 43 is pretty close, send your cotter pin through the slot, take the longer side, bend it underneath, take the shorter size, trim it down.
Reinstall your brake rotor. Be sure to install the beveled hole of your rotor, over the screw hole in the hub. Reinstall your screw with a number 2 Phillips. Remove your caliper from wherever you hung it. Spread your pads in the carrier, reinstall the assembly onto the rotor in the back.
Tighten up your 17mm caliper bolts. Torque your caliper bolts to 80 foot-pounds. Put your wheel back in place. Start your lug nuts, we'll tighten them preliminarily and torque them when the vehicle's back down on the ground. Tighten your lug nuts 80 foot-pounds and just cross in the pattern.
Thanks for tuning in. We hope this video helped you out. Next time you need parts for your car, please visit 1AAuto.com. Also check out our other helpful how-to and diagnosis videos.
