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Premium Positive Molded Brake Pads Features and Benefits
Item Condition:
New
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WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Lead and Lead Compounds, which are known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov.
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Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video we're going to show you how to remove and reinstall the rear brakes on this 2003 Honda Civic, pretty much the same as any 2001 to 2005 Civic with the rear drum brakes. The brakes are actually pretty good in this vehicle so we just show you how to take them apart and put them back together. We do one side. Obviously, you always want to replace your brakes in pairs.
The tools you'll need are a jack and jack stands, a tire iron, or a 19mm socket with a breaker bar, or even you could use your ratchet with a piece of pipe for some leverage just to get the lug nuts started, some needle nose locking pliers, and a torque wrench.
These lug nuts are 19 millimeters. You can either use a socket with a breaker bar or your tire iron. If you don't have the benefit of air tools, you'll want to start with your wheel on the ground. We'll loosen the lug nuts first. Then raise and support your vehicle and remove the wheel and tire. Just speed it up here as I remove the wheel and tire. Hopefully, your brake drum will come right off.
You see these springs right here, now there are special tools that you can use to get these apart. If you own a garage and work on cars all the time, it might make sense, but it also could make sense to buy a tool like this that has many uses. It's a locking jaw or vice grip pliers that has kind of a needle nose to it. Get it in there, lock it onto that spring, pull the spring over and release it. There's also a spring right here that's much easier. Pull it down and release it. Before you go too far, push your piston back in here and just lock this rubber boot back on. Just kind of pry it and pull it up and over. Pull it up and over, and then just kind of rotate it around as you push it right on. Change the size of your pliers here. You push on this little tab. Push it in, twist and let that out. Do the same thing on this side. It should untwist. Let that off. Your front shoe comes off. Rear shoe comes off, and the rear shoe is connected to the brakes here, the emergency brake cable. We just have to take this off. Right down here, your rear shoe is connected to your emergency brake cable. Pull it forward on the spring. Then pull your cable through like that. If you were putting on new shoes, what you would want to do is take this apart here. You basically just spread this clip apart, slip it off and then this arm comes off of the back shoe. You would want to put it onto the new shoe that you install, obviously, and then the reinstallation is just pretty much a reversal of the procedure. It's kind of upside down here. Clip the arm in place. Just slide that right down and in. Put the rear shoe up and in.
Before I go to reinstall that, I use a little bit of white grease right here on these contact points. There's three in the back and three in the front.
I've already got to get my clip on here. Put the shoe up into place and lock that on. This is the separator bar. It's what adjusts so you want to make sure this is all nice and free. This spins on there and that spins easily inside there. That goes right in there. Now you take your front shoe you put the spring on. Put it on down here. This shoe should be pushed right in there and then this one goes in behind. There's a little bracket that's holding the bottoms of them on. Pull our stud back. Make sure this goes into place. Now take your clip for the front shoe and make sure the front shoe is up in place. Hold the pin on the back side of the backing plate and then push the clip in and turn it. Rotate it with the pliers to lock it on.
Now you want to push these together. This little bracket goes right in there. I'll just show you that bracket from the other side so you can see. We'll put that there and stretch it right across. Put it in there. Make sure you push it right in. This spring goes right in. It goes on there and down into there.
Reinstall the rear brake drum. Then really kick it into high gear as I put the wheel on. Then on this vehicle you put the hub cap on, start the lug nuts and then preliminarily tighten them with either your ratchet or in this case my impact wrench. Then I'll torque them when the vehicle is on the ground. Then once the vehicle is on the ground, then torque your lug nuts to 100 foot pounds kind of using a crossing pattern as you go. Last, but certainly not least, always make sure you pump the brake pedal a bunch of times. Firm it up. Make sure the brakes are working correctly before you road test the vehicle.
We hope this helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
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Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet.
Hi, I'm Jeremy from 1AAuto. I'm going to help you fix your car today, and the next time you need parts for your car think of 1AAuto.com. Thank you.
In this video, we're going to show you how to replace the front brakes on a 2003 Honda Civic. It's pretty much the same for a 2001-2005 Honda Civic. The tools that you'll need for this job include a jack and jack stands, 19mm socket and breaker bar, 12mm wrench, 17mm wrench, Phillips screwdriver, large c-clamp, wire brush, some anti-seize, and a torque wrench.
The first step is to break the lug nuts loose, and you do that by leaving the car on the ground so that the wheel doesn't spin when you lift up on it. Here we go. Now we're going to raise the car up and take the wheel off. Now we're going to pull it off.
The next step is to pull these two screws out of the rotor. Normally they're stuck in there really tight, so I try to use a screwdriver first, and then go on to more drastic measures if need be. These are actually coming out.
The next step is to remove these two 12mm bolts that hold the caliper to the caliper bracket. You can use a ratchet or the style wrench. One trick is to connect the two wrenches together, and then bump them with your fist so you can pull them out. The next thing I like to do is pull the caliper really hard toward me so that it compresses the piston inside the caliper. It makes the caliper loose, making it easier to remove. Remove the caliper.
Now we can take the brake pads out. These ones are in pretty good shape, so we'll probably end up putting these right back in. Then you're going to take off the caliper bracket, which, once again, you can use the same method of linking the wrenches together to break it loose. Now the caliper bracket is off.
Now that we have the caliper bracket off, we can take off the rotor, as you can see.
For reinstall, place the rotor back on the hub. Apply a little anti-seize to the Phillips screws, and put them back in the rotor. Clean up the brake pad slides to make sure that they're not going to make the brake pad bind up and cause uneven brake pad wear. Now we have the caliper bracket that needs to go back on.
Then we can put the bracket right back on after it's nice and clean. We are now ready to put the brake pads in. Normally, they're brand new and you can just slide them in, where this one is used. I'm probably going to put a little anti-seize on this as well. It does exactly what it is called, and it prevents the brake pads from sticking in the slides. You can see the squeaker right here. This is the thing that makes all the noise whenever you need new brake pads. That goes right here on the inside. You're going to need to compress this caliper. The best way to do that is actually with a giant C-clamp. As you can see, as you tighten the C-clamp, it pushes the piston in. Pretty awesome, right? Now it's completely compressed and you can pull the C-clamp out.
Like I said before, put the caliper on. Here's the caliper bolts. Once again, anti-seize. If you live in a dry climate, these things won't be rusty, but in New England, they're always rusty. Voila, your brakes are back together again.
It's now time to put the tire back on. Slide the wheel into place and tighten the lug nuts preliminarily. Lower the vehicle to the ground. The last step is to torque the wheels. I usually a hundred foot-pounds on pretty much all the wheels that I tighten. Basically, grab your torque wrench, always do it in a cross pattern so that the wheel goes on straight. Now the pedal's pumped and the brakes feel good again.
Hopefully this video has helped you out. You can visit us at 1AAuto.com for replacement parts and the best service on the internet.
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