Replaces
Frequently bought together
Part Details
TRQ CV (constant velocity) drive axles are manufactured using premium raw materials designed to restore original performance. TRQ CV drive axles are new, so there is no core charge with your TRQ purchase. TRQ-designed drive axles utilize neoprene boots, moly grease, stainless steel clamps, and heat-treated ball tracks to ensure extended service life. Each TRQ axle is application-specific so each spline and thread will mate properly for a seamless fit. All products are fit and road-tested in our Massachusetts R&D facility to ensure we deliver on our promise of Trusted Reliable Quality.
Product Features
CV axles are designed to transmit the power from your vehicle's drivetrain to the wheels while being able to flex and pivot to the demands of the steering and suspension systems. If your vehicle is making clicking noises at lower speeds or when making turns, it may be time to replace your CV axles with our 100% brand new assemblies.
Note: This is correct for models with or without ABS brakes. The tone ring can be removed if the original CV axle did not have one and the vehicle did not originally come equipped with ABS brakes.
Item Condition:
New
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Lead and Lead Compounds, which are known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov.
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
FREE Shipping is standard on orders shipped to the lower 48 States (Contiguous United States). Standard shipping charges apply to Hawaii and Alaska.
Shipping is not available to a P.O. Box, APO/FPO/DPO addresses, US Territories, or Canada for this item.
Expedited is available on checkout to the United States, excluding Alaska, Hawaii.
Final shipping costs are available at checkout.
Created on:
Tools used
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com- your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Mike Green. I'm one of the owners of 1A Auto. I want to help you save time and money repairing and maintaining your vehicle. I'm going to use my 20 plus years experience restoring and repairing cars and trucks like this to show you the correct way to install parts from 1AAuto.com. The right parts installed correctly, that's going to save you time and money. Thank you and enjoy the video.
In this video we'll be showing you how to replace the front axle or the half-shaft or CV joint in this '01 Ford Taurus. Same as pretty much any '96 to '07 Taurus. Tools you'll need are: jack and jack stand; 10- to 21-millimeter sockets; ratchets and extensions; 10-millimeter, 18-millimeter wrenches;am d a 30-millimeter socket. You will need a tie rod puller, which is kind of a special tool; a large hammer; and a pry bar or large screwdriver.
Start by using the screwdriver and pry off the little cap and try not to fumble it like I do. If you have the benefit of air tools, the air ratchet's the best way. This is a 30-millimeter hub nut and you want to remove it with the air tools. If you don't have air tools, you want to have your car on the ground, wheels on the ground, and then you can remove this with hand tools. You're going to need a large breaker bar because it is on here tight. Now, use a 19-millimeter socket to remove the wheel.
Next, remove the cotter pin that holds the bolts for the tie rod end. This is 18 millimeters, now you're going to use a tie rod end and ball joint puller or pusher. Try to make sure it's lined up as straight as you can. It pops. Now it's disconnected. Put penetrating oil on the upper stabilizer link bolt and the strut clamp bolt, and yes, you'll notice that the tire rod end is connected again, because I shot out of sequence. Below is a 10-millimeter bolt right here that you can remove that holds the brake line bracket. We'll speed through that.
Then you pull that brake line bracket out and then you slide the bracket that has the ABS sensor up and pull that clip off. The upper stabilizer bolt you'll need an 18-millimeter wrench. Then you can see I've got a 10- millimeter wrench on there in case I need to hold that shaft still and it turns out that this actually comes apart without even having to hold that in place. You can pull that link out. I'm just putting that bolt back on there for safe keeping. The bolt that holds the lower end of the strut, it's an 18-millimeter wrench that I'm going to use to hold it and this is a 21 millimeter. I've just taken and pulled the rest of it off by hand, and I actually didn't accidentally drop it, actually. Then a small hammer or a hammer and just drive that bolt out. You have to drive it all the way out until that bolt actually does hold onto the strut. Once you get it out, you can usually pull it out right by hand.
Then you need a good-size hammer. You just hit the top of the steering knuckle. If you look real close, you can basically see the disc sliding down off of the strut. We'll speed it up a little bit here. The big red arrow- that is the axle shaft coming through the hub. Usually, I give that a nice big rap and it loosens right up and that's the case. It was actually loose on this Taurus. Usually just a nice big hammer works. Give it one big rap and it'll loosen it up. Now, I'm ready to separate the strut from the steering knuckle. I'll just pull the wires out of the way and down and then the washer from the hub bolt. Actually, it just fell down. Then move everything down. Totally different angle here. Use a smaller pry bar or a big screwdriver and basically just pry your axle up out of the hub.
Obviously be careful of that one line right there. That is the brake line. There's generally enough slack in it to do this. Pry it up and pop it out. Then you'll grab onto it with your hands and pull it up. This route does require some strength and some force, so you can pull it up and out. Underneath, on the business end of that axle, just put a pry bar in there. It's just a snap ring that holds that in place, so just pry it right out.
Back again from above, just take the axle right out. Before you reinstall your axle you want to just- if your seal's been leaking- you may want to replace this seal, right here. Axle pretty much goes in like it came out. You want to put it right up and in. Just give it a good push, make sure it goes all the way in. Check it from down below here. Make sure there's no shininess showing there. It's all in. Then take your axle and push it right into the hub. Now you want to pull these, your brake line and your ABS sensor wire. Actually, push your suspension down and pull your strut right over so it's in.
Make sure your bracket is going down into the slot in the steering knuckle here. Then push it down. Again, make sure that that gets lined up with that slot. As long as you have that bracket lined up into the slot in the steering knuckle, you start jacking it up and it goes together. It goes right on. You want to keep lifting. Put this bolt in and once that bolt goes through, you're all set. Now here I'm going to put the nut on the other side of that. That bolt you want to tighten up to 100-foot pounds of torque. Put your stabilizer links back in. Put this clip back on. Just be careful of your fingers when you slide this down over. Now, on the back side this little tab goes right through the hole in this clip in the strut and holds everything together. Then the bolt will bolt it together.
We'll fast forward through tightening that up. There's no specific torque, just make that bolt tight. Here, we'll use a little tapping of the hammer. Doesn't usually take much to get that stabilizer link through the strut. Then put the bolt on and then use your 18-millimeter wrench, and possibly your 10 millimeter. Get that link nice and tight again. No specific torque specification, just get it good and tight. Now you want to reconnect your tie rod end, put that bolt on. We're going to torque this to 50- foot pounds then pull it just a little tighter so we can get the cotter pin in. Speed through putting the cotter pin in here. Using a hammer beat it in there. Then I just bend it over with my hand to make sure it stays.
Here, I'm going to put the washer and the hub bolt back on then I'm going to grab my impact wrench. If you don't have impact tools, put your wheel back on and lower the car down on the ground. When you do that, you can see I'm looking in behind. Basically what I'm doing is watching the axle go into the hub. Once I see the axle pretty much get all the way in hub and the wrench slow down, that's when I stop because I will want to torque it by hand with the car on the ground. Save you all the details of putting the wheel back on. But put it on there, put the lug nuts on. I tighten the lug nuts preliminary with the impact wrench and then let the car down to the ground.
Now with the car on the ground that 30-millimeter nut, we'll tighten it up to 130-foot pounds. Now I'll put the little cap back on and the center cap. Just get it positioned right and get give it a good tap with your fist or with a little hammer. Then I'm going to torque my lug nuts to anywhere from between 80- to 100-foot pounds. Use a star pattern, so cross, cross, cross, and cross. When you road test, just be careful. Go slow the first time out. You should be all set from there.
We hope this helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com- your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet. Please feel free to call us toll free 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
