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1A Auto Lifetime Warranty
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Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
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Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks!
In this video, we're going to show you how to replace a front hub on this 2005 Ford F150. We show you on the passenger side but the driver's side is the same procedure. The items you'll need for this are a new front hub from 1AAuto.com, a 13mm, 18mm, and 21mm socket and ratchet with a piece of pipe for leverage, flat blade screwdriver, a pair of pliers, a jack and jack stands and a torque wrench.
Pry off the hubcap, and then, using your 21mm socket and ratchet, loosen up each of the lug nuts. Pull off this cap with a pair of pliers and then loosen up this 13mm nut. Now raise the vehicle and remove the lug nuts the rest of the way. Remove your wheel.
Turn the wheel so you can access the brakes better. To make it easier to get the caliper off, just take a large screwdriver and put it into the brake disk and pry out. You don't have to move it far, just enough to help you get things apart. Then we are going to remove the two 13mm bolts here and one up here. Push in the slides on the bracket and then pull the caliper up and off.
Now pry out your brake pads and now remove these two 18mm bolts on the back of your caliper bracket, and we'll just fast-forward as Mike removes those. Put one of the lug nuts back on and then tap your rotor. Then remove the lug nut and pull your rotor free.
The ABS harness connector is under the hood but actually it's easier to reach it from underneath. You can see I'm reaching up through the inner fender and pressing on the tab and pulling it apart. It does take a little bit of force but you can get it. If everything here is wire-tied, make sure you disconnect that, and then just pull this clip out at the top of this harness. Then you want to remove these four 18mm bolts. Two on that side and two over here. We'll fast-forward as Mike removes both of those, and you can see he uses a piece of pipe for some extra leverage.
Now remove that 13mm nut the rest of the way, and you want to make sure that it can push in and out. That means your axle is going to disconnect from the hub. Now twist in one of those 18mm bolts just a partial way so this doesn't go flying when you hammer it. You just want to hammer it to loosen it up a bit more from the wheel knuckle, then remove that bolt, and your hub should pull free.
On the right is the old hub; on the left is the new one from 1A Auto. You can see they are identical and they'll fit exactly the same. Here is a front shot. You can see same thing, they look identical. Just wipe any dirt off of there or anything. Grease up the set of bearings that's right inside here with some bearing grease. Then just apply a light coat to the engaging wheel for the 4-wheel drive here. That harness lead faces the back. Get it in place. We'll fast-forward as Mike replaces the rest of those bolts and then tightens all of them up. You want to torque each of those four bolts to 95 foot-pounds.
Now replace that 13mm nut, tighten it up, and then just torque that to 20 foot-pounds. Take your ABS wire and unclip it. Then you want to just push this into that bracket right there. Replace this small cap.
Put the rotor into place, and then replace a lug nut to just hold it in place while you put the caliper bracket back on. You put the brake caliper bracket back into place and replace the two 18mm bolts that hold it there. We'll fast-forward as he tightens those up. Then you want to torque both of those to 95 foot-pounds.
Put your caliper back into place. Then replace those two 13mm bolts and tighten them up. Now torque both of these to 25 foot-pounds. Reconnect this clip on the ABS harness. Just work your way down the harness, re-clipping the end to each of those clips.
Remove the lug nut and then put your wheel back into place. Then replace each of the lug nuts and tighten them up preliminarily. Then lower the vehicle and tighten them the rest of the way. Torque each of the lug nuts to 110 foot-pounds in a crossing pattern. Replace your hubcap.
Come up here and reconnect your ABS harness. After doing any work on the brakes, you just want to pump the brake pedal until it firms up. Then do a stopping test from 5 miles per hour, then 10 miles per hour. We hope this video helps you out.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
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Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Don from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we're going to replace one of the front wheel drive axle actuators. Usually, if your vehicle seems to be stuck in four-wheel drive or it's making a lot of humming noises, what you can do is, with the car running, you jack up the front wheels. If, with the car running, you turn the front wheels, and the front drive shaft still turns, that's a good indication that these axle actuators, and also, possibly your solenoid that's up behind your battery are stuck. It's a common problem on these trucks.
You'll need new actuators from 1AAuto.com, jack and jack stands, a pry bar, pliers, 8 13, 24 and 30mm sockets, ratchets and breaker bar of pipe for some extra leverage, and a 12mm 12-point socket and ratchet. In the video, we show you the right-hand, or passenger side. The left-hand, or driver side is the same procedure.
To start out, raise and support the vehicle securely, and then remove your center cap. We're going to remove the cap on the end of the hub. With a 13mm socket, we're going to remove the nut from the end of the axle. Where the end of your CV joint meets the solid axle, it's going to be six 12-point 12mm bolts so I'm using a 12-point socket to remove those. Okay, we're just going to do some fast-forwarding here. You can basically hold on to the tire or have an assistant, or you can have somebody hold the brakes for the vehicle. Loosen up those bolts and remove them. I'm going to remove the bolt, the 30mm socket that holds in the lower part of the lower part of the strut assembly, so that we can get more room to pull the CV shaft out. I'm going to fast-forward here as we remove that nut and bolt. Once you get the nut loosened up, you can tap it with a hammer a few times, make sure that the bolt is loose and will come out.
I'm going to use a pry bar and pry out the lower end of the strut assembly from the lower control arm. While I was prying on the lower part of the strut assembly, I was able to pull the CV shaft past this. I'm going to pull the shaft out. We'll just speed it up here. Work the axle out, and then, you actually have to work the lower strut mount out. You can see, we'll us a pry bar and get that moved out of the way. Then the axle comes right out.
There are three 8mm bolts that hold it on. We'll fast-forward here as we remove those 8mm bolts. Using a flat-blade screw driver, I'm going to pry off the actuator. I'm going to disconnect the vacuum hoses.
Here, we have the old part, and here's our new replacement part from 1A Auto, identical. You can see here that when you try to apply pressure, the back of this, where it would engage and disengage the four wheel drive, it doesn't work, whereas our new one is nice and fluid. I'm going to start by connecting the vacuum hoses, placing it back inside and reinstalling the 8mm bolts. We'll fast-forward here again as we reinstall those bolts. We always put the bolts in first and make sure that they can start by hand. Make sure all three of them start in, and then tighten them up.
I'm sliding the CV joint back into place. With the wheel all the way turned out, I'm going to go ahead and re-secure where the strut goes into the lower control arm. Then, once you get that back in place, use the bolts, or you can also use a screw driver or a line-up tool. Get the hole to line up, get the bolt through, put the nut on the back side, and then tighten it up. You want to tighten that bolt up to about 95 to 100 foot-pounds. I'm going to line up the holes in the CV shaft with the solid axle, and reinstall the 12mm 12-point bolts. Once again, we'll fast-forward here. Reinstall the bolts first by hand. Make sure they're turning in there and you're not cross-threading any of the bolts. Then, tighten them up preliminarily. Then, what you want to do, is use a cross pattern. Tighten one up. Then, you want to tighten them up to about 25 foot pounds. Tighten one up, then go to the opposite one. Tighten that one up, and just keep with that pattern until they're all tight. I'm reinstalling the 13-mm nut on the end of the axle, the CV shaft. Reinstall the cap. Align your center hub cover with the pin here and the hole there.
We hope this helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
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Okay, friends. One of the first things we need to do to get started on this job is to safely raise and support the truck. After you've done that, remove your center cover here. And then remove all six of your 21-millimeter lug nuts and get the wheel off.
Now that the wheel is off, let's go ahead and get this ABS wire disconnected. I'm just gonna come right along here, and then remove this 8-millimeter bolt.
Now let's go ahead and remove our anchor bolt for our flex hose for the brakes. The next thing we need to do is remove our two caliper bracket bolts. I'm just gonna start that in a couple threads. Now we're gonna remove our caliper and we're gonna hang it so it puts no pressure on the flex hose. Let's remove the rotor. Let's go ahead and remove our vacuum lines here. Let's go ahead and remove this little center cover. Now, let's remove our axle nut. Now we're just gonna push on this axle stub here. If it doesn't move, just go ahead and put the nut back on a few good threads and then give it a couple of loving bonks with a hammer.
Now let's go ahead and get this off of here. Let's go ahead and follow that ABS wire just continue disconnecting it up along the way here, comes up to this area, coming from the back. You're gonna see you have a little push button, go ahead and push on that and then separate the two. Now let's go ahead and get our cotter pin out for our tie rod. Set that aside for recycling. Let's remove the nut. Now we're gonna use a hammer and we're gonna hit right on the knuckle right here to try to break this free.
Now let's remove our upper ball joint nut. Now we're just gonna separate these two. So, now we're just gonna go ahead and put that nut on just a couple small threads here. That's gonna help prevent this knuckle from falling down when we relieve the lower ball joint. The next thing I wanna do is pull down on the upper control arm and we're gonna put it just like this, so it leaves a nice gap between the knuckle and the nut itself, so we can move down to the lower ball joint. Let's just leave this on a couple of threads.
Now the next thing that we need to do is carefully bonk on the knuckle and try to separate the ball joint from it. Let's remove that nut. Hold up on your knuckle, remove the lower ball joint nut. Bring it down and slide it out and away from the vehicle.
Now that we have the knuckle off of the truck, let's go ahead and unbolt this from here. But, before we do that, go ahead and spray it down with some penetrant spray. Let's give this a loving bonk. There it is friends.
The next thing we're gonna do is come along the edges where the actuator was and just try to make sure we get up as much of this debris as possible.
Now that I've got the majority of the crud off the outside here, let's continue on to getting out some of the grease that's inside there. Now we're just gonna grab a little bit of high-temperature bearing grease, and we're gonna go ahead and coat this area. That's gonna help keep moisture out of there. Let's go ahead and get this installed. Lay it down on there, starting all three of your bolts and then we'll snug them up and torque them to 106-inch pounds.
All right. Let's go ahead and clean down this area. All right. Let's go ahead and get this axle back inside the bearing there. We're gonna slide the knuckle up, so we can get the ball joint started on the lower aspect here. There we are. Go ahead and give that axle a nice wiggle and it should wanna set right in and then it's gonna be coming out the other side here. Let's snug this up. Now we're gonna torque this to 85-foot pounds and then we'll continue on to putting on the cotter pin. Now the next thing you wanna do is line up the slots on the nut to the hole in the stud for the ball joint. If for some reason after you torque it, it doesn't line up, continue tightening until the very next slot does. The next thing we need to do is get our axle inside the knuckle as we push the knuckle up, you wanna be very careful not to damage your internal seal.
Now I'm just gonna take a pry bar, come in and under here, and then I'm gonna try to put the ball joint through the knuckle. Go ahead and start with that nut. Snug it up. Torque it to 85-foot pounds. What you wanna do next is make sure that you have your slot lined up with the hole on your ball joint stud. If for some reason it isn't, you need to continue tightening until it is. Next, take your cotter pin, go ahead and put it through the slot and the hole and then, of course, lock it down.
The next thing we're gonna wanna do is put on our axle nut. I like to use a little bit of red thread locker, bottom it out and then torque it to 20-foot pounds. Now that that's torqued, we're gonna go ahead and install this cover. You wanna make sure that it's not damaged in any way and slide it right on there, and bottom it out. Now before we can continue on to putting the brakes together, we wanna make sure that the hub mating surface in the back of the rotor mating surface, is nice and clean. After you've done that, apply a little bit of copper Never-Seez.
Let's go ahead and get our rotor back on here. I'm gonna start a lug nut on so it holds the rotor for me. Let's get our caliper reattached. We're gonna use some thread locker, of course, on the bolts. Start them both in and then we're gonna torque them to 185-foot pounds. Let's get our vacuum lines reattached. Now we're gonna reconnect in our bracket. ABS wire. Let's snug them up. Let's start resecuring our ABS wire, make sure you go up and in between the brake line here, just like that.
This looks good for now. Make my way down here. Get a little push clip. It's gonna go into your hole right there. The rest of it should just line up, we'll continue on. Making our way up here, let's make sure we reconnect in our ABS wire. Listen for a click. And then, of course, give it a nice tug. After that, you wanna make sure that you secure it back in up here. Make sure everything's nice and secured and it's definitely not rubbing up against anything and there's no way it can get caught.
Let's get the outer tie rod end on here. Snug this up, torque it to 85-foot pounds. The next thing we wanna do is make sure that our slots line up with the hole in the stud for the tie rod. If for some reason it doesn't, you need to continue tightening until the next one does. Install your locking cotter pin and then lock it down. Let's get the wheel back up on here. Start all of your lug nuts, snug them up, and torque them to 150-foot pounds. Torqued. Okay, friends. So, that's pretty much it, aside from making sure you pump up that brake pedal and then get yourself safely down to an alignment shop.
