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1A Auto Lifetime Warranty
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WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Lead and Lead Compounds, which are known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov.
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
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Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we're going to show you how to replace the front brakes on this 2005 Ford F150. We show you on the passenger's side but the driver's side is the same procedure. The items that you'll need for this are new brake pad and rotor kit from 1AAuto.com; a 13, 18 and 21mm socket and ratchet with a piece of pipe for extra leverage; flat blade screwdriver; pliers; jack and jack stands; large C-clamp; wire brush; brake grease; and a torque wrench.
Pry off the hub cap. Then, using your 21mm socket and ratchet loosen up each of the lug nuts. Now, raise the vehicle and remove the lug nuts the rest of the way and remove your wheel.
Turn the wheel so you can access the brakes better. Inspect your brakes. These brakes really actually look good. Take the back of your fingernail and run it up and down. You're feeling for any large grooves. Even though it looks like there's a groove there, there's really not anything there. There's going to be light grooves but you don't want anything large. Do the same thing on the back side. Then you can see the pads. See the pad right there. There's plenty of life left on this outer pad. The inner pad you can see through here and there's actually a little slot there. That's actually a wear mark, so there's actually good life left on these brakes but we're going to take them apart and put them back together just to show you.
To make it easier to get the caliper off, just take a large screwdriver and put it into the brake disc and pry out. You don't have to move it far, just enough to help you get things apart. Then, we're going to remove the two 13mm bolts: here and one up here. Push in the slides on the bracket and then pull the caliper up and off. Now, pry out your brake pads.
Now, remove these two 18mm bolts on the back of your caliper bracket. We'll just fast forward as Mike removes those. If your vehicle has a little rust and the rotor isn't coming off, put a lug nut on and use a hammer to hit the back of it and then remove the lug nut and remove the rotor.
On the left, are the old brake pads and rotor. On the right, are the new ones from 1A Auto. You can see they're identical and they'll fit exactly the same.
Put the rotor into place and then, replace a lug nut to just hold in place while you put the caliper bracket back on. Take an old brake pad and put into your caliper. Then, take a large C-clamp and you just want to twist the C-clamp and it'll push those pistons on your caliper back in. These should be nice and smooth. They are a little bit catchy so I'm going to take them out, clean them off and regrease them. Apply the brake grease. Push the slides back into your caliper bracket. Now, pull off your brake pad slides and, using a wire brush, just clean the area where the slides were. Now put the brake caliper bracket back into place and replace the two 18mm bolts that hold it there. We'll fast forward as he tightens those up. Then you want to torque both of those to 95 foot-pounds.
Push your new brake pad slides into place. All right I always find it's easier to adjust these a little bit. These ears here push and keep tension on the pads that way, but usually they just need to be bent in that way a little bit. Then it's always good to just take a screwdriver and bend these ears down some and then these ones up. Put some grease on the ends where they contact the slides. Now there's a small tab that comes down on these slides. Just bend that back up. Reinstall the inner pad, then you can use these clips and these are optional but these clips hold the pads out from the rotor while you're driving. You need to set the tabs in the slides to hold the brake pads in place while these clips are on.
Put your caliper back into place. Then, replace those two 13mm bolts and tighten them up. Now torque both of these to 25 foot-pounds.
Remove the lug nut and then put your wheel back into place. Then replace each of the lug nuts and tighten them up preliminarily and then lower the vehicle and tighten them the rest of the way. Torque each of the lug nuts to 110 foot-pounds in a crossing pattern. Replace your hub cap.
After doing any work on the brakes, you just want to pump the brake pedal until it firms up and then do a stopping test from 5 miles per hour and then 10 miles per hour.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
