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Tools used
Because we're gonna have to disconnect the fuel system, we wanna take the pressure out of the fuel system. Just take this relay out right here. Find the fuel pump relay, grab that, take that out. And then you can try to start the vehicle. Our vehicle doesn't run right now. So if you crank the vehicle and then it dies, the fuel system should be unpressurized.
Now I'm gonna disconnect the battery. Use an 8-millimeter wrench. Loosen up the negative side terminal and just set that wire aside. Take this cover off. Use an 8-millimeter socket and slide it off. Take the snorkel off, there's a little retainer right here. Just use a trim tool. Slide that off. Then loosen up the worm clamp here. Use an 8-millimeter socket or you can use a straight blade screwdriver. Same with this one. Grab the snorkel, slide it back, and slide it out. Take this nut off right here. Use a 10-millimeter socket. And then these 2 10-millimeter bolts, and then that one. And take this cover off. And we're gonna disconnect the connectors. Disconnect that one right there. It's off the purge solenoid. Disconnect the alternator connector right here, slide under the lock and pull it out. And this connector right here. And the MAP sensor as well, disconnect that. And I'm just gonna use a bungee cord to just keep the wires out of the way. Just wrap it around the wiper arm.
This wire connector right here, just unattach that from the intake, set that aside. Now we have to disconnect all the fuel injectors. There is a lock on them. This one doesn't have that lock on it, but you pull back on the lock and then you push down on that little lock tab and then slide the connector out. This one does have the lock, so the lock, you just grab the lock and just slide it up just a little bit, and then you should be able to push on the connector. Sometimes it's easier to slide whole lock out. This is how the lock works. So when it's locked in there, this is all the way down. Slide this out. You should be able to slide this out a little bit. You don't have to slide it out that much. Okay. That's how it's locked. Should be able to slide it out to there and then push down on the tab and release it. But like I said, sometimes it's easier just to slide this whole thing out, push it down, slide it out. Do that for all eight of them.
All right. Disconnect the connector to the throttle body and just pull back on this little lock. Once it's back that far, push down on the tab, disconnect it. Now, you could leave the throttle body attached. There's just coolant hoses that go to it. So you can either take those hoses off and just leave that all attached, take it all off on the intake or take the throttle body off. I'm gonna use a 10-millimeter socket. Take these nuts off. And sometimes the stud comes out completely. That's okay. Let's get the other two out.
Now, you wanna be careful with this. It is sensitive. You don't wanna drop it. And slide this hose out of the way over here. And disconnect this hose right here. This goes to the valve cover. You can either disconnect it down here or up here. And it's been on there for a long time, so it's kind of hard to get it loose. Just try to twist it back and forth. Screwdriver, or a trim tool, or something, just try to push on it. It should probably be replaced. The rubber is very dry. Just try not to crack this little port. There we go. Yeah. See the hose is starting to rip already. Move that to the side. Disconnect this EVAP line. Might need a screwdriver or something to push on the tab. It slides up. Now, when we take the intake off, since I'm not pulling the injector rail up, we're just gonna have to feed this through there. So just keep that in mind. And back here, disconnect this line that goes to the valve cover. Just pop that up. You could disconnect it up here if you wanted to. And just put that out of the way.
Now, if you weren't able to bleed the pressure off the fuel system like I showed you earlier, taking the relay out and cranking it, just take the cap off right here. Take some rags and a screwdriver and you're just gonna push on this Schrader valve. Just be careful. It's a good idea to wear safety glasses while you're doing this. And just release the pressure. There wasn't a lot of pressure in this one, but sometimes they spray pretty good. It's good. Put the cap back on so I don't lose it. Now we'll disconnect the fuel line, just pull this lock off, and just slide it up and then pull it out. You're gonna need a special fuel line release tool. Just slide this over the pipe, pull the line forward, and then push the tool into the line. Once the tool is in the right spot, you should be able to pull the line back. Just like that. Pop it off.
Now we're gonna take the intake bolts out. There's one there, one there, one there, and then there's two in the back on this side, on the opposite side. There's two in the front, one in the middle, and then two further back. So there's 5 per side, 10 in total. I'm gonna use an 8-millimeter socket. It helps to use a wobble socket or a swivel socket. And it's a good idea not to use an electric tool with the gas being out. You don't wanna cause any sparks. So I'm just gonna use an air tool. All right. All those bolts are loose. Just grab the intake, slide it up. Just remember this hose has to go underneath the fuel rail over here. And just slide it through there. Like that. Just be careful, it is plastic. You don't wanna crack it. And then when you go back in, you're gonna have to feed that through there again and slide it out.
So it's pretty dirty under here. I wanna clean some of this up. I don't want any of this stuff to fall into the intake ports. What you could do is put a rag in each one of those ports and then clean it all up if that's what you wanna do. Or just be careful. And you don't really wanna use a electric vacuum on this because the potential of getting some of the fuel in there and then catching the vacuum on fire. So just be careful. All right. So I put rags in all the ports. I just need to remember to take those out when I go to put the intake back on. Just use a blow gun. Just try to blow most of this away. And we're gonna pull this little cover up right here. Just use a trim tool or a screwdriver and just slide it up. It should slide on the wire. And just be careful. There we go. Disconnect the connector. It's kind of hard to do with your fingers. Might be easier with some needle-nose pliers. And disconnect the connector. When you squeeze that, that releases the locks. And just do the same with the back one. There we go. In case any debris fell in there, I'm just gonna blow out the hole. Then I'm gonna take the sensor out. Use a 7/8 socket or a 22-millimeter socket. Loosen up the sensor. Once it breaks free you should be able to do it by hand. And pull the knock sensor right up. Take the new knock sensor, slide it in position. And start it by hand. Now it's very important to torque these properly. Use a torque wrench and torque these to 15-foot-pounds. And it's good. It's crucial that you don't over-torque them or you could break the sensor. Now we're gonna do the same on the other sensor.
All right. I'll take the harness. Now, if your harness was good, you could reconnect it. But while you're in here, it's always a good idea to replace the harness just in case something breaks like the connector, so. And take the new connector and just lock it in place. Do the same on the back one. That's good. Now we can push these seals down. That's good. Do the same on this one. Perfect. Now you wanna run the harness this way. Just have it sitting back here so when we go to put the intake back on we can plug it right back in. Before I put the intake on, I just wanna take some brake parts cleaner and just clean the surfaces where the intake gasket is gonna sit. You don't have to clean all this up crystal clear or anything, but just where the gasket is gonna sit, make sure that's nice and clean. You can gently use a razor blade to clean some of this up. Just be careful. You don't wanna gouge the metal or you don't wanna cut yourself.
Take the old gaskets off. There's a little clip right here. There's another clip right here and then another one on the bottom. Take those off. Try not to tip the intake completely upside down. Just try to keep it on its side so none of the dirt goes into the ports and then just take a little rag and some brake parts cleaner and just wipe around the intake. And take the new gasket, just line it up, and click it into place right there, right there, and on the bottom. Just make sure that looks good. Do the same on the other one.
Don't forget to take these rags out. You can check all the ports. Just look down and make sure there's nothing that went in there. You could always spray a little compressed air. Now when we go to put the intake back on, we have to slide this back through the fuel rail. You could always disconnect it right here and just put this on the intake and then reconnect it down there if that makes it easier for you. And take the intake. This line is gonna go through right here. And just line it up. Watch this line, push that back there, and just wiggle the intake a little bit. Make sure you didn't crush any of the wires. Make sure this wire is accessible. It goes to the knock sensors. We can actually put this...just attach that right there right now so you don't lose that and get all the bolts started. Now I'm just gonna snug them down first. There is a sequence to tighten these up, but I'll snug them down first and then we'll do the torquing and the sequence after.
So, number one, I'm gonna torque this bolt to 44-inch-pounds, and that's the center one on the passenger side. That's number one. Number two is gonna be the center one on the driver side. Number three is gonna be on the driver side, the next one back. So number four from the middle one, the next one forward. Number five from the middle one, back one. Number six, on the driver side from the middle, forward one. Number seven is the next one forward. Number eight is the passenger side rear one. Number nine is the driver side rear. And number 10 is passenger side front one. So that was all the first pass. Now you're gonna do the same sequence and you're gonna change your torque wrench to 88-inch-pounds. And do the same exact sequence. Now we'll hook up the fuel line, line that up, lock it in place. Make sure that's good. Make sure you put this lock on, just slides on, and then locks down. It's just gonna prevent it from coming off. Now hookup this line or hose right here. It goes to the valve cover. And hook this line up over here. Ours is split. This should be replaced, but it'll work for now. And the EVAP line, just make sure it locks in place. And that's good.
Now check your throttle body gasket. If it's crushed, normally you have to replace it every time, but if it looks okay, you can probably try to reuse it. This one looks good. And take the studs or just the nuts if the studs didn't come out. Put those back on. And then I'm gonna torque these to 89-inch-pounds. Now reposition that coolant hose, and those clamps, take the electrical connector, line it up. Lock it in place, push down on the lock. That's good. Now we wanna plug these injectors back in. Just take the locks, reposition the locks how those go. And plug those in. Make sure they're secure. Do the same with the other seven. Let's disconnect this bungee cord and run the wires same way they came out. This bracket's gonna go right here and those wires are gonna go like that. We can connect this connector right here. That goes to the knock sensor wire. Right there. And then this connector is gonna go to the MAP sensor in the back right there.
Now take this bracket, line that up. And take the bolts, get those all started. Put the nut on this bracket right here. That's good. Take these connectors, plug in the alternator. And this purge valve, plug that one in. And take the snorkel, line it up over the intake or the throttle body. Line this bracket up right here and over the airbox or mass airflow sensor. Tighten up this worm clamp right here. Just snug. And the same right here. Take the cover, line the cover up in the back, and get the bolt started. And tighten it up. Snug. Now let's reconnect the battery. Put the negative terminal on and snug it up. And then wiggle it, make sure it's not loose, and you're good to go.
Tools used
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Don from 1AAuto. I hope this how-to-video helps you out, and the next time you need a part for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we're going to show you how to replace a knock sensor on this 2002 Chevy Suburban with the 5.3 Liter engine, and it's the same part and similar process on these Suburbans from 2000 to 2005. The items you'll need are a new knock sensor from 1AAuto.com, a flat blade screwdriver, an 8, 10, and 22mm socket and ratchet with an extension, a fuel line disconnect tool (in this case a 3/8 inch), pliers, a vacuum, penetrating fluid, and a torque wrench.
Start off by removing the 8mm bolt that holds on your engine cover. That pulls free. Then, using a flat blade screwdriver, just loosen up this hose clamp right here and this hose clamp right over here. Now, you can pull the hose free. Pull it free from this side, then just lift it up and pry out the hose from the intake hose. Then it's free. Now, remove these three 8mm bolts right here. We'll fast forward as Don does this. Then remove these three 8mm bolts right here.
Next, disconnect these two harnesses. To do that, you just pull up on the tab and pull them free. Then pry this hose right here free, and then remove these three 10mm nuts. Lift up this bracket and pull it aside, and then remove this 8mm bolt right here, and then just pull that bracket aside, and then disconnect this hose clamp, and do the same thing back here with this one. You want to make sure you disconnect that harness as well and pull that aside. Do the same thing back here, until this set of harnesses loosens up. Then just remove this 10mm nut right here, and then you can just pull that set of harnesses aside. Then pull up the clip on the harness for your fuel injector, then push the tab on the harness and disconnect it, and repeat the process for the other seven.
Now, just loosen up this fuel line cap, and using a flat blade screwdriver and a rag, you want to just put the rag over it and push the tab on the fuel bleeder. It should spray out just a little bit, and it'll release the pressure. Then replace the cap and come over here and just pry off this clip. Then, using a fuel line separator tool, you just want to push that all the way in. For this one, it's a 3/8 inch. Then, once that's pushed all the way in, you can pull the fuel line free, and then it just pulls off. You put it on the fuel line below it and repeat the same process. Take a pair of pliers and push the teeth together on this hose clamp. Slide it down the hose, and then pull the hose free. Then just remove this series of 10mm bolts along each side of your intake manifold. You can kind of see them, they're down below the fuel rail there. We'll just fast forward as Don removes these.
Lift your intake manifold up and out. You will have to maneuver a lot of harnesses and wires and everything but you just want to get this out as far as you can get it to go, which at this point should be right about here. Once you get to this point, take your EGR and just feed it through the harnesses and out. Once you feed it through, you can just lift your intake manifold up and out. Pry up on your knock sensor harness caps. Then, using a pair of needle nose pliers, preferably bent ones, you want to push in the sides of the harness and then pull up. Do the same thing to this side and then your harness. Underneath that harness your knock sensors are located right here. Using a 22mm socket, just remove the knock sensor you want to replace. On the left is the old knock sensor; on the right is the new one from 1AAuto. You can see they are identical and they will fit exactly the same.
Feed your new knock sensor down into place. Just tighten it up, and we'll fast forward as Don does that. Push the harness back down onto the knock sensor and then replace the cap. Then replace the other end of the harness and that cap as well. Set your intake manifold back down into place, then just feed this hose down and pull it out through the other side. Now, disconnect your EGR by just pulling out on the clip with a flat blade screwdriver and just pulling the hose free. Then feed that hose through the side of your intake manifold. Just maneuver it down and into place. We're going to fast forward as Don continues to do this. You just have to move the cables and wires around until you can finally get it to set down, it does take a second but it will go down. Now reconnect this hose. Just using pliers, slide that hose clamp back into place, and then reconnect this bracket. You want to just line this up and push it back onto those studs. Then just replace those nuts. Take the EGR valve and push it back down into place, and replace the bolt that holds it there, and then reconnect that hose. Reconnect your other hose to the top of your intake manifold, replace this bracket and replace the bolts that hold it into place, reconnect this hose over here, and then replace this bracket and the bolts that hold it into place and just tighten those up. Then just replace each of these long 10mm bolts that line the side of your intake manifold, and then just tighten each of those up. You can see that we use a variety of different extensions just to help get there. You can use a longer one for these ones, then, as you get further back, you may need to use a shorter one. It does help to have a flashlight, too. Just make sure you reconnect your fuel lines, and then put those clips back into place to lock them.
Okay, you want to torque the manifold bolts. Start in the middle and go across, then work your way around the manifold in a counter-clockwise pattern. You want to tighten them on the first pass to 44 inch pounds, then 89 inch pounds. Now, just reconnect each of your fuel injectors. You just want to push the harness in and replace that clip and push it down into place. We'll fast forward as Don does this to the other fuel injectors. Lower the intake hose back down into place. You just push it back and then tighten up those two hose clamps. Double check that all your harnesses are connected and all the hoses are connected, and then replace your engine cover. Once you get it lined up, just replace that bolt and tighten it up. Then you're all set.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
Tools used
Because we're gonna have to disconnect the fuel system, we wanna take the pressure out of the fuel system. Just take this relay out right here. Find the fuel pump relay, grab that, take that out. And then you can try to start the vehicle. Our vehicle doesn't run right now. So if you crank the vehicle and then it dies, the fuel system should be unpressurized.
Now I'm gonna disconnect the battery. Use an 8-millimeter wrench. Loosen up the negative side terminal and just set that wire aside. Take this cover off. Use an 8-millimeter socket and slide it off. Take the snorkel off, there's a little retainer right here. Just use a trim tool. Slide that off. Then loosen up the worm clamp here. Use an 8-millimeter socket or you can use a straight blade screwdriver. Same with this one. Grab the snorkel, slide it back, and slide it out. Take this nut off right here. Use a 10-millimeter socket. And then these 2 10-millimeter bolts, and then that one. And take this cover off. And we're gonna disconnect the connectors. Disconnect that one right there. It's off the purge solenoid. Disconnect the alternator connector right here, slide under the lock and pull it out. And this connector right here. And the MAP sensor as well, disconnect that. And I'm just gonna use a bungee cord to just keep the wires out of the way. Just wrap it around the wiper arm.
This wire connector right here, just unattach that from the intake, set that aside. Now we have to disconnect all the fuel injectors. There is a lock on them. This one doesn't have that lock on it, but you pull back on the lock and then you push down on that little lock tab and then slide the connector out. This one does have the lock, so the lock, you just grab the lock and just slide it up just a little bit, and then you should be able to push on the connector. Sometimes it's easier to slide whole lock out. This is how the lock works. So when it's locked in there, this is all the way down. Slide this out. You should be able to slide this out a little bit. You don't have to slide it out that much. Okay. That's how it's locked. Should be able to slide it out to there and then push down on the tab and release it. But like I said, sometimes it's easier just to slide this whole thing out, push it down, slide it out. Do that for all eight of them.
All right. Disconnect the connector to the throttle body and just pull back on this little lock. Once it's back that far, push down on the tab, disconnect it. Now, you could leave the throttle body attached. There's just coolant hoses that go to it. So you can either take those hoses off and just leave that all attached, take it all off on the intake or take the throttle body off. I'm gonna use a 10-millimeter socket. Take these nuts off. And sometimes the stud comes out completely. That's okay. Let's get the other two out.
Now, you wanna be careful with this. It is sensitive. You don't wanna drop it. And slide this hose out of the way over here. And disconnect this hose right here. This goes to the valve cover. You can either disconnect it down here or up here. And it's been on there for a long time, so it's kind of hard to get it loose. Just try to twist it back and forth. Screwdriver, or a trim tool, or something, just try to push on it. It should probably be replaced. The rubber is very dry. Just try not to crack this little port. There we go. Yeah. See the hose is starting to rip already. Move that to the side. Disconnect this EVAP line. Might need a screwdriver or something to push on the tab. It slides up. Now, when we take the intake off, since I'm not pulling the injector rail up, we're just gonna have to feed this through there. So just keep that in mind. And back here, disconnect this line that goes to the valve cover. Just pop that up. You could disconnect it up here if you wanted to. And just put that out of the way.
Now, if you weren't able to bleed the pressure off the fuel system like I showed you earlier, taking the relay out and cranking it, just take the cap off right here. Take some rags and a screwdriver and you're just gonna push on this Schrader valve. Just be careful. It's a good idea to wear safety glasses while you're doing this. And just release the pressure. There wasn't a lot of pressure in this one, but sometimes they spray pretty good. It's good. Put the cap back on so I don't lose it. Now we'll disconnect the fuel line, just pull this lock off, and just slide it up and then pull it out. You're gonna need a special fuel line release tool. Just slide this over the pipe, pull the line forward, and then push the tool into the line. Once the tool is in the right spot, you should be able to pull the line back. Just like that. Pop it off.
Now we're gonna take the intake bolts out. There's one there, one there, one there, and then there's two in the back on this side, on the opposite side. There's two in the front, one in the middle, and then two further back. So there's 5 per side, 10 in total. I'm gonna use an 8-millimeter socket. It helps to use a wobble socket or a swivel socket. And it's a good idea not to use an electric tool with the gas being out. You don't wanna cause any sparks. So I'm just gonna use an air tool. All right. All those bolts are loose. Just grab the intake, slide it up. Just remember this hose has to go underneath the fuel rail over here. And just slide it through there. Like that. Just be careful, it is plastic. You don't wanna crack it. And then when you go back in, you're gonna have to feed that through there again and slide it out.
So it's pretty dirty under here. I wanna clean some of this up. I don't want any of this stuff to fall into the intake ports. What you could do is put a rag in each one of those ports and then clean it all up if that's what you wanna do. Or just be careful. And you don't really wanna use a electric vacuum on this because the potential of getting some of the fuel in there and then catching the vacuum on fire. So just be careful. All right. So I put rags in all the ports. I just need to remember to take those out when I go to put the intake back on. Just use a blow gun. Just try to blow most of this away. And we're gonna pull this little cover up right here. Just use a trim tool or a screwdriver and just slide it up. It should slide on the wire. And just be careful. There we go. Disconnect the connector. It's kind of hard to do with your fingers. Might be easier with some needle-nose pliers. And disconnect the connector. When you squeeze that, that releases the locks. And just do the same with the back one. There we go. In case any debris fell in there, I'm just gonna blow out the hole. Then I'm gonna take the sensor out. Use a 7/8 socket or a 22-millimeter socket. Loosen up the sensor. Once it breaks free you should be able to do it by hand. And pull the knock sensor right up. Take the new knock sensor, slide it in position. And start it by hand. Now it's very important to torque these properly. Use a torque wrench and torque these to 15-foot-pounds. And it's good. It's crucial that you don't over-torque them or you could break the sensor. Now we're gonna do the same on the other sensor.
All right. I'll take the harness. Now, if your harness was good, you could reconnect it. But while you're in here, it's always a good idea to replace the harness just in case something breaks like the connector, so. And take the new connector and just lock it in place. Do the same on the back one. That's good. Now we can push these seals down. That's good. Do the same on this one. Perfect. Now you wanna run the harness this way. Just have it sitting back here so when we go to put the intake back on we can plug it right back in. Before I put the intake on, I just wanna take some brake parts cleaner and just clean the surfaces where the intake gasket is gonna sit. You don't have to clean all this up crystal clear or anything, but just where the gasket is gonna sit, make sure that's nice and clean. You can gently use a razor blade to clean some of this up. Just be careful. You don't wanna gouge the metal or you don't wanna cut yourself.
Take the old gaskets off. There's a little clip right here. There's another clip right here and then another one on the bottom. Take those off. Try not to tip the intake completely upside down. Just try to keep it on its side so none of the dirt goes into the ports and then just take a little rag and some brake parts cleaner and just wipe around the intake. And take the new gasket, just line it up, and click it into place right there, right there, and on the bottom. Just make sure that looks good. Do the same on the other one.
Don't forget to take these rags out. You can check all the ports. Just look down and make sure there's nothing that went in there. You could always spray a little compressed air. Now when we go to put the intake back on, we have to slide this back through the fuel rail. You could always disconnect it right here and just put this on the intake and then reconnect it down there if that makes it easier for you. And take the intake. This line is gonna go through right here. And just line it up. Watch this line, push that back there, and just wiggle the intake a little bit. Make sure you didn't crush any of the wires. Make sure this wire is accessible. It goes to the knock sensors. We can actually put this...just attach that right there right now so you don't lose that and get all the bolts started. Now I'm just gonna snug them down first. There is a sequence to tighten these up, but I'll snug them down first and then we'll do the torquing and the sequence after.
So, number one, I'm gonna torque this bolt to 44-inch-pounds, and that's the center one on the passenger side. That's number one. Number two is gonna be the center one on the driver side. Number three is gonna be on the driver side, the next one back. So number four from the middle one, the next one forward. Number five from the middle one, back one. Number six, on the driver side from the middle, forward one. Number seven is the next one forward. Number eight is the passenger side rear one. Number nine is the driver side rear. And number 10 is passenger side front one. So that was all the first pass. Now you're gonna do the same sequence and you're gonna change your torque wrench to 88-inch-pounds. And do the same exact sequence. Now we'll hook up the fuel line, line that up, lock it in place. Make sure that's good. Make sure you put this lock on, just slides on, and then locks down. It's just gonna prevent it from coming off. Now hookup this line or hose right here. It goes to the valve cover. And hook this line up over here. Ours is split. This should be replaced, but it'll work for now. And the EVAP line, just make sure it locks in place. And that's good.
Now check your throttle body gasket. If it's crushed, normally you have to replace it every time, but if it looks okay, you can probably try to reuse it. This one looks good. And take the studs or just the nuts if the studs didn't come out. Put those back on. And then I'm gonna torque these to 89-inch-pounds. Now reposition that coolant hose, and those clamps, take the electrical connector, line it up. Lock it in place, push down on the lock. That's good. Now we wanna plug these injectors back in. Just take the locks, reposition the locks how those go. And plug those in. Make sure they're secure. Do the same with the other seven. Let's disconnect this bungee cord and run the wires same way they came out. This bracket's gonna go right here and those wires are gonna go like that. We can connect this connector right here. That goes to the knock sensor wire. Right there. And then this connector is gonna go to the MAP sensor in the back right there.
Now take this bracket, line that up. And take the bolts, get those all started. Put the nut on this bracket right here. That's good. Take these connectors, plug in the alternator. And this purge valve, plug that one in. And take the snorkel, line it up over the intake or the throttle body. Line this bracket up right here and over the airbox or mass airflow sensor. Tighten up this worm clamp right here. Just snug. And the same right here. Take the cover, line the cover up in the back, and get the bolt started. And tighten it up. Snug. Now let's reconnect the battery. Put the negative terminal on and snug it up. And then wiggle it, make sure it's not loose, and you're good to go.
Tools used
