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Our steering and suspension components are pre-greased and sealed for long life and do not require the extra maintenance typically required by greaseable versions.
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Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video we're going to show you how to replace the sway bar end links on this 2008 Dodge Ram. Typically, you want to replace them in pairs. These are the tools that you're going to need: rust penetrant, 15mm, 16mm, 17mm, 18mm sockets, ratchet, socket extension, locking pliers, torque wrench, jack and jack stands
Raise and support your vehicle. You can do it with jack stands, but in this case we have a lift so we're going to use the lift. In the front end of the truck you can see that your sway bar end link is right here. We're going to start by shooting the threads with some rust penetrant so that it makes our whole job a whole lot easier.
To remove the sway bar end link, you're actually going to have to rotate the sway bar up. To do that, you have to disconnect the opposite side sway bar end link. If you're going to just be replacing one of the sway bar end links, then you just need to disconnect the bottom of the other side, but if you're going to be replacing both like us, and we recommend replacing both at the same time, you're going to want to lubricate the top and the bottom with the penetrating oil.
You'll see that the sway bar end link has a 15mm hex on the bottom side of it so that you can hold it with a wrench. Then on the top you're going to need a 17mm deep socket and ratchet. The bottom end of the sway bar end link has an 18mm spot for a wrench on it. You can wedge it in between the wheel. The bottom side is an 18mm 6-point. Now you can take the nut right off the bottom. We're going to be replacing both of the sway bar end links, but if you're just doing one, you need to disconnect the opposite side, the bottom of it. The 18mm wrench that we were hoping to use didn't fit in this scenario, so we went right to the locking pliers.
With an 18mm socket on the bottom, you should be able to loosen it right up. Then you can pop the nut right off the bottom. Now we need to raise up the sway bar so that we can pull the sway bar end links out. Unfortunately, we just put brand new bushings in here, so the sway bar is really tight, and it's tough to push up. We're going to start by loosening up the sway bar bushing brackets. You don't have to take all the bolts out. We just need to loosen them up so that the sway bar will move a little freer.
Now we're going to push the sway bar up on this side so that we can come over here and remove the sway bar end link from the sway bar. We're going to be replacing both of the sway bar end links, so the next thing that we do is rotate the sway bar like this. You haven't easier access to this upper nut on the sway bar end link. You can put a 15mm here, 17mm socket on the top, and loosen it up.
This right here is a 1ASSL00405. This is also an aftermarket piece; it's actually been replaced before on the truck. You can see that they're obviously very similar. Ours has the new bushings and washers, and nuts, along with the grease fitting included. The only difference between these two that I can come up with is these points right here, where you put the wrench on to remove them. It's just 18mm versus 19mm. It's going to fit just like the original one does and hopefully solve your problem.
Get your 1A Auto sway bar end link, and take the nut and the washer and the rubber bumper off the top, leaving one rubber bumper and the washer on there. Slide it through your sway bar. Then put the nut on, but leave it really use so that we can actually slide it down into the control arm later. We're going to repeat this step on the opposite side. We're now going to spin the sway bar up, and set the sway bar end links down through the control arms. Then we'll loosely install the nuts on the bottom of the sway bar end links.
We're going to start by tightening up the top of the sway bar end link with a 15mm wrench right in here and a 16mm socket and ratchet on the top. Just snug it up. Then we'll move to the bottom. We'll take a 19mm wrench, slide it right over here, and an 18mm socket and ratchet for the bottom. Once it's tight, you'll want to repeat these steps on the opposite side.
Next, we're going to tighten up all of the sway bar bushings bolts that we had loosened earlier in the job. These we should set to 45 foot-pounds. With the sway bar bushings torqued and the sway bar end links replaced, now you can lower the truck back down to the ground and you'll be all set for the road ahead.
Thanks for tuning in. We hope this video helped you out. Next time you need parts for your car, please visit 1AAuto.com. Also check out our other helpful how-to and diagnosis videos.
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Hey, friends. It's Len down at 1A Auto. Today I'm going to be showing you a very simple task. We're going to be doing rear sway bar links on a 2016 Ram 1500 Big Horn. It's going to be very easy. I want to be the guy that shows you how to do it. So if you need any parts for your vehicle, you can always come down to 1A Auto and check us out. Thanks.
We've got our long breaker bar with our 22 millimeter socket. I'm going to go ahead and break all these free. I'm not going to loosen them up very much. I have most of the weight of the vehicle off the ground, but the tire is still on the ground. I'm turning to the left, counterclockwise. We don't want to go too loose. We don't want this wheel flopping around, you could break a stud. There we are. Now we can lift it up and we can continue to remove this wheel.
We've got our last lug nut coming off. I'm going to hold the wheel. Put this aside. Grab it, carefully bring it down, and roll it aside. So first what we're going to do is we're going to grab our locking pliers, whatever style you might have. I'm going to try to get in between this boot and the bar and see if I can crimp down onto that to hold the stud from moving. It might be kind of hard. I want that to be as tight as you can get it with your hand strength. Next we're going to take an 18 millimeter socket, try to remove this by turning to the left. If for some reason it's very hard to turn you can use something like this, a little torch. Let's see, we might not need it. A little bit of penetrant goes a long way apparently. I'll just get this nut all the way off of here. There it is. That aside where we won't lose it. Remove our locking pliers. Bonk that right out of there, nice.
So now we're going to remove the upper mounting area. There should be an 18 millimeter nut here and an 18 millimeter bolt head here, so I'm going to go ahead and take those out. I've got my 18 wrench on the back side. I've got this on the front side so that's the way I'm working from, this side. If you're working from the other side you could switch them around, whatever you want to do, it's your prerogative. If you happen to have access to an air gun that would be helpful. Just want to get that nut off of there. There we are. I'm going to hold onto this and now we've removed our rear sway bar link.
So here we're going to do a product comparison. We have our old and our new. This is a quality 1A Auto part. What we want to do is we want to check the length. Make sure they're approximately the same. If you have one that's like this or like this, you might have the wrong part. I think this looks great. It's got the same holes, that's great. Same studs. This one's a little bit different for the way you can hold it. It's actually an upgrade. Get this nut out of the way. So here you can put a little hex head in there if you want and be able to get in there a lot easier than having to do it this way. It's up to you either way, but this is going to work just fine. So I don't see any reason why we can't install this quality 1A Auto part. If you need this, or any other part, you can always come down to 1aauto.com and check us out.
All right, so now we're going to install our quality part. We're just going to bring it up here and start our bolt through, just like that. We'll get our nut started on there. There we are. We don't need to tighten it up yet because we're going to put this through here, just like that. We'll put on our new nut and now we're clear to tighten these down. So we're going to start up here at the top. I'm going to be using my 18 millimeter wrench to hold it. I'm going to come up here with my other 18 and use a ratchet wrench, socket, whatever you have acess to. Might be good to really tighten it down with something with a longer handle than this, but until then we'll just go with this. There we go. I'm going to go ahead and start snugging this up and then we'll finish tightening them up. I'll put this on. Getting down to the end here. Get this snugged up. There we go. Get this off of here.
I believe that I told you that this is a 6 millimeter Allen head for that right there. Just double-check that I did. I'm just going to go ahead and tighten this. Feels good. Nice and tight. If you wanted to do that instead of using your hand you can go ahead and use a long handle pry bar or a long handled ratchet I should say, or a little rubber mallet action. That would be nice. But now it's nice and tight, good and installed.
So we're going to grab this big old wheel. We're going to put it up on here. I want to make it clear that you never want to lift with your back. You don't want to go like this and try to lift it up, okay? I just felt my back crack actually just thinking about it. You want to grab it like this. I'm going to have my leg behind here. I'm going to lift it, roll it up onto my leg and lift like this. Abs of steel, that's what they're there for. Ready? Nice and easy, nice. Hold it and get my lug nut on there. We've got our torque wrench set to 130 foot-pounds, our 22 millimeter socket. We're going to start at the top, we're going to make a star pattern. One, two, three, four, five. Then you can go around again if you want. That's one, two, three, four, five. If you want to go around again, go ahead. Just go around in a circle this time. We know the wheel is set in nice so we can go in a circle. Some people will still go in a star. You can do that as well. There we are.
Thanks for watching. Visit 1aauto.com for quality auto parts shipped to your door. The place for DIY auto repair and if you enjoy this video please click the subscribe button.
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Okay, friends. To get started on this vehicle, the first thing we want to talk about is safety. You want hand and eye protection. Secondly, you want to make sure that you raise and support the vehicle by the frame so the suspension's hanging. Next, let's remove our lug nuts. Remove your wheel. Okay, friends. So here's our front sway bar link. As you can tell ours is broken at the top. So I have the new one here to show you. If you were to look at it, you have the stud that comes down through the bottom of the control arm. Following it up, you're going to find another stud up along the top that comes to the top of the sway bar itself. On top of that, there'll be a little bushing, a washer, and a nice nut. You would of course remove the nut and then the washer and the bushing, and then you'll be left with this.
Next, we're going to move right down here and we're going to remove this nut. I'm just going to take a nice pair of locking pliers like this, clamp it onto this stud, make it as tight as possible. Let's remove that 18 millimeter nut. Okay, for us personally, where the top of ours is broken, this is going to come out nice and easy. If you still had the top of the stud on your sway bar link, what you're going to notice is it's going to be very hard to get it out. You could try to pry up on the pry bar and see if you can squeeze it out. But in all actuality, when you're replacing sway bar links, you do them as a pair anyway. So now's a perfect time to go over and remove the right one as well.
Here we are. There's our old sway bar link. Let's dispose of this properly and grab our new one. Let's go ahead and take apart our sway bar link so it looks like this with a washer and one bushing up along the top there. You can slide it into either direction you want, and then of course, we're going to bring the bar down once we have the other side in as well. Let's start this nut on here. Looking at the lower aspect of the sway bar link, where it's going to connect to the actual control arm, you can see there's like a little nut there. We're going to hold that and then turn this.
Now we're going to snug up this nut and we're just going to watch these bushings right here. You wanna see them touch up against the bar, but you definitely don't want to see them squished down so they look like a pancake and start bubbling out. That looks pretty great right there. You can see it's squished down here, squished down there. It's definitely making contact with both sides of the bar. Do the same thing to the other side and make sure you have the same amount of threads on both sides. Let's torque this to 20 foot-pounds. Go ahead and put the wheel back up on here. We're going to start all of our lug nuts and then we'll torque them to 130 foot-pounds. Torqued.
