Dodge Ram 1500 2500 3500 Passenger Side Mirror TRQ MRA05403

Okay friends, just a quick heads up, you don't necessarily have to fully remove your door panel here to do the mirror but I'm going to do it just because, in all actuality, it's safer for all the plastic because as you start trying to pull this up and move it a little bit you might potentially crack or break something. Looking at your door panel you're going to see your inner door handle. You want to go ahead and remove that 10-millimeter headed bolt that's in there. Let's get the handle out of the way. Next, let's move along to getting this off right here. Let's use our plastic trim tool and remove this master switch right here. There we are. Go ahead and pull on this tab, set this aside. Now, we need to remove our four Phillips-head mounting screws. You'll have one up here, one in the center where your handle was, and then two along the bottom. Grab your panel like this and carefully lift up. There we go.

Okay, so now we have a nice clear view of our mirror mounting areas. You have three mounting nuts, and of course you have the wiring going to it. If you put your hand like this, you could squeeze with your thumb right along the wiring and draw it right off. There's a little squeeze tab. Moving along, let's remove our three mounting nuts here. Leave that one on just a couple threads for now. Reach through and hold your mirror, and move that last mounting nut. Now what you want to pay attention to is right up along where the wiring went in, you can see there's two little clippie-doo's, you want to just kind of push in on those tabs or squeeze them away from the door. There it is friends.

Let's go ahead and install our mirror. If you have the little window flare here just go ahead and put it underneath there, line up your studs, watch your paint. There we are. Now let's snug 'em up. I'm just going to go till it's bottomed out, give it a teeny bit more. Do the same to all. Let's hook up our electrical connector here, give it a nice click, give it a nice tug, that feels perfect. All right, so now let's go ahead and connect this back in. We'll put the key in the on position, and let's test that mirror. Perfect.

Now it's going to be time to get our door panel back on, but before we can do that let's get this little cover out of here. This is where that door lock is going to be, this is going to make it so much easier for us in the long run. Now, let's put this up to the door, grab our wiring, make sure it comes through. Come up here, we want to come high, that way there, all those hooks can fit into their corresponding holes. I'm pushing at the same time as I'm letting this come down. Okay, I'm just going to feel along the whole way and make sure I'm sitting completely up against the door. Let's grab this right here. I'm gonna go ahead and lift up on that door lock, pop this on in there. All right, move along to our window switch here, lock this in. Okay, make sure it's locked in, perfect. Now let's move along down here to putting in our handle. So now we're going to get our handle on here, I'm just going to get my tool ready so it's already on the handle, put it in so it lines up with its spot, make sure that's snug. Perfect. Now it's going to be time to put in our mounting screws. Let's go ahead up here. I'm going to use the two larger ones first, one down here. Awesome.

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Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.

In this video, we're going to show you how to install our upgraded power folding mirrors on this 2006 Dodge Ram. This truck does not have power folding mirrors. We're going to put the power folding mirrors on it and show you how to wire them. On this vehicle it also has the optional running lights as well as puddle lamps. We wire up all those things. You will be able to purchase the mirrors as you want maybe you just want the power fold, maybe you want the puddle lights, maybe you don't. We'll show you how to do each one of those. You'll need new mirrors from 1AAuto.com and a bunch of other pretty common tools. You will need wiring pliers and you'll need something to make the dead panel on your dash into a good place to mount the switch as you'll see later. We're going to show you in detail everything to do on the passenger side, but the driver side is the same procedure.

You want to remove the screw that's in behind the door handle, as well as couple of other screws: one up top and two down the bottom. With those screws removed, you can lift up on the panel and then just pop the lock bezel out and then reach up and through. I like to do it this way just to make sure you don't break that panel. You can push the clips, pop that panel up, and then there are tabs on those harnesses. Push the tabs in, remove the harnesses, and pull your panel up and off.

Four Philip screws hold the speaker, so remove those screws. Once you got the screws out, just pull the speaker out. On the back there is harness connection. There's just a little tab you press and pull that connection out. The harness has a little tab on the top. Push it down, disconnect the harness, and then remove the three 10mm nuts that hold the mirror in place. It's actually clips that hold the mirror even after the nuts are off they're on each side of the harness connection. You see here, we push them in as a helper holds the mirror and takes it off.

Okay, use a screwdriver to help yourself get under the door soleplate and then pull up, snap out. and then pull up to release the other clips that hold it in. You want to pull your glove box down so you can access behind it. There are just tabs on each side. You just push in on the sides of the glove box, pull it down, and it will unhook from the hinge. Now, you need to disconnect the body harness. There are basically four tabs around the harness. I'm actually pushing in on the tabs with the screwdriver and prying out at the same time. Then I reach in, I'm going behind it to push on the other final tab, pull that out, and then disconnect the harness by pushing down on the little tab and pulling it apart.

Okay, we're going to run our wires through the body harness connection. I'm going to reach in the door and just push the rubber boot through the door. Slowly and carefully pull your water shield down. Be very careful not to tear it or rip it, and you just need to pull the top corner down on each side.

On the driver side, you want to pull the side dash panel off. Work your fingers in and under the bottom and then slide them up and release the clips all the way around. We need to access the dome light harness. You want to remove this screw that holds the pillar trim in. Two screws on the bottom hold the lower dash panel in there and in behind that break controller. Once you have the screws out, pull out on that dash panel. You don't want to pull it down, you want to pull it mostly back and a little bit down to release all the clips.

Now, we're going to run one of our power fold harnesses across, and that will pull that harness through the rest of the way. Then feed it up into the dash and through the whole on the body of the truck. You want to repeat this process with the harness for the light as well. The folding harness has an insulation on it, and you basically have to put it through the body harness boot. You want to go back about 18 inches and cut it, and then cut about a foot of the insulation off back from there to the body of the car. I'm just going to fast-forward as I do that. We're actually not removing the insulation that's near the plug; we're removing an intermediate piece of the insulation.

Now, on the plug end, you want to pull the rubber boot off and then use a small flat blade screwdriver and there's a tab right inside to release that and pull the harnesses out. Now you can feed both your light harness and your power fold harness through. You could see I get the power fold harness through, and I pull that back insulation through to the point where I have just the bare wires. Then you get those wires, make sure they're placed in the corners of your harness connection. Once you get them pretty straight you can slide your harness back in and it's nice and tight and the wires are through.

Okay, here I'm using basically a straightened out coat hanger or you can use a piece of stiff wire. I'm feeding it through the boot and out the other end so I can hook it on to the wires and then pull the wires through the door hinge or the door Now with the wires through, I tape my wires on to it and then carefully pull it through that boot. Now, feed your wires into the door and very careful at this point, you need to make sure they come in into the door and then they exit out through this hole here. Make sure that they do not in any way interfere with the window regulator. You need to make sure that they're in behind the regulator and come up without interfering with the window. Both harnesses are routed up through the door, and make sure the harnesses come through the mirror pad.

Now we're going to hook those harnesses in as we put the mirror up the door. These are prototype mirrors that I'm fitting, so the harnesses were a little bit short so they had caused a little bit of difficulty. That won't be a problem on the production mirrors. With all the harnesses routed through correctly, put the three 10mm nuts back on and we'll tighten them up. Okay, you want to take the all black wire and hook it to a ground. Remove the end of it and put a wiring eye on it. Loosen up that 10mm bolt that's just below the mirror, and put the ground wire in there and tighten it back up. Now your door is all wired.

You're going to want to reach in and get the boot back in place. Pull it through the door through that speaker hole and get it back into the door. Then reconnect your harness. You have to pull the wires through on the other side just to make sure they don't kink it all and just work it in place. If you move the door around a little bit, it makes it a little easier to lock it in place. Make sure the boot is all back where it should be snapped in. Then just put on some wire ties to hold everything in place so it doesn't move around. Make sure you've cut those off and put the insulation back in place.

Here, we're just wire-tying the harnesses together using some, actually, electrical type. Tie them together, and then wire-tie them up into place so that they don't hang down at the passenger's feet. We have to hook the harness for the power fold to a switched power source. On this truck, once we opened up that side panel, there's an empty harness connection here. The orange wire is a switches power source. Just to make sure, you might want to just probe it with an electrical connector or an electrical probe. Just to make sure that it's only on when the power of the truck is on.

On our vehicle we had optional puddle lights on the other prototypes. We hook those puddle lights into the blue with green stripe wire that ran the dome lights. Here's a close up of using those fuse or the wire taps. Tuck in, and then we reconnect the dome harness after we had hooked the power source for those puddle lights up. Okay, just a test here. We'll turn the inside lights on and off. And you can see the puddle lights are lighting up.

And now just put that pillar trim back in place. Tighten up the screw that holds it. You'll need to ground the fold switch, so this wire is the one coming from the power folding switch harness. And we're just hooking it up to a screw at the bottom of the dash there. We've run our wires for both doors and the wire for the switch. Now we're going to mount our switch into this small panel, and we're going to be using a precision drill tool to fill out an exact hole for the switch.

Now just a test. Again, like I've said we've run the harnesses for both doors and the switch harness into the dash. And just a test . the mirrors fold and move back.

Now you have to run a wire out to the engine compartment of the vehicle. That's a power source for the marker lights. So we're going to run it right through the wiring boot. Seems like the best way to do it. And we're going to disconnect this harness it just seems like an easier way to get to things. Pull that back and disconnect that harness. So we use the same method that we used with the boots through the door. You put a piece of stiff wire up through that harness boot, hook it on to the wire, and pull the wire through to the engine compartment.

You can see here the wire is taped to a coat hanger, and we're pulling it back through into the vehicle. Now we're going to hook that wire to the parking light fuse, and we're kind of using an oldr style fuse tap. The new kit will come with a newer style fuse tap that create a separate circuit for the mirror lights. But the parking light fuse on the fuse box is right here, pull it out, put the tap in with it, and reconnect it. There's our wire hooked in, so put the fuse box cover back down.

Then, here we are just reconnecting a harness that we connected that made it easier to get the wiring through. Okay, again here using a wire tap and I'm hooking one of the lights, or actually the driver side marker light to that power wire we just ran from the fuse box. You can see I turn it on, a little test, and the marker light works, and so now I'm using another wire tap and connecting the wire for the other side. And the lights are LED so there's very little draw.

With all the wiring mostly complete, we've wire-tied everything into place to make sure it's nice and secure and it's not going to drop down on anybody's feet or get tangled or anything. Put the lower panel back into place and secure it with two bottom screws.Here we have our switch in that little panel, press the switch in, and put it into the dash.

Put the side panel back in place and any of the carpet trim on the sides. Hook your glove box back into place, and it just raises up and you put it back into place. And we've secured all the wiring with wire pads. And put the carpet and side trim back in place, Reconnect the main mirror harness. And reinstall the radio speaker, and we're going to fast-forward as we go through and putting the door panel back on. We showed you in detail on the passenger side, so you need to repeat everything we did on the driver side.

With everything back together we'll do a quick test. The power fold works nicely, and then the lights come on with the truck lights. And again our prototypes also had puddle lights. You may or may not have puddle lights on the mirrors that you purchase.

We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.

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Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.

In this video, we're going to show you how to install tow mirrors on your Dodge Ram. This is a 2008, but the procedure is the same for 2002 to 2008 Dodge Ram. You'll need new tow mirrors from 1AAuto.com, 10 millimeter socket with ratchet and extensions, number two and #3 Phillips screwdrivers, flat blade screwdriver, electrical tape, needle nose pliers, wire stripping and crimping tool, a straight pick, and a pair of pliers.

Remove the 10mm bolt in the inside edge of the door handle. Remove the door handle from the opening. Remove the #3 Phillips behind the door handle, and in this top corner, two #2 Phillips on the bottom of the panel. Lift up on the door panel to release. Then we'll have to disconnect the two connectors from the window switch.

Disconnect the connector to the mirror by pressing down on the tab on the top. Remove these three 10 millimeter knots. Make sure to support the mirror before you finish removing the bolts.

We have to pry the bug deflector up on our car. Put it behind the mirror. Work the mirror out of the door.

Here, we have our old part from the vehicle and our upgraded tow mirror from 1AAuto.com. You could see this mirror sticks out a lot more, flips up, has a panoramic mirror already installed in it. It's going to be a really good upgrade. Going to give you a lot better view of what's going on behind you, especially when you have a big trailer on the back of your truck. Bolt right in just like the factory part. Comes with an easy-to-install two wire harness so we can use this lamp as either a turn signal or a parking light.

Be sure to take the two wire connector, feed it through first, wind up your bolts. Pop the new mirror in. Make sure you use the new hardware supplied with the kit. It has a larger flange on the knot to help support the extra weight of the bigger mirror. Tight the bolts back up with a 10 millimeter socket.

Reconnect the factory connector to the mirror. Connect the two wire harness included with your kit. Unravel all the wiring. Make sure there are no loops or kinks anywhere in it. Peel back the corner of your weather shield. Send the harness down into the door, being careful not to route it anywhere near a window regulator or any other moving part that may pinch the wire and cause damage. Make sure when you run the wiring down from the mirror, go through the round hole here and not to the square hole where the latch sits. Remove the rubber boot around the wiring harness inside the door jam.

You may need a flat blade screwdriver to pry this out. Reach through. Pull those all the way through. You want to make sure when you reinstall your weather seal that the wire stays clear that square hole. Pry the other side of the rubber loom off the truck side of the door jam. Twist the ends of the wire together. Keep the wires feeding in the same place. We're going to tape the end to a thin flat blade screwdriver. Use that to send our wire through the loom, careful not to puncture any other wires. Hold your wires and pull your screwdriver back through. Feed the rest of your wiring through the loom. Lift up on the seam of the kick panel. Lift up. Pull the panel out.

Just below the parking brake pedal is this weather shield. You'll have to pop that out of the way with a pair of needle-nose pliers behind the plastic clips. Just pry them out. Fold it back until you can see where the door harness comes through. Feed the wire one at a time between the retainer and the actual wiring clips. Find that wire when it comes through on the other side. Pull that through. Careful not to make too sharp an angle when you're pulling or to shape that against any other metals. Once that's through, start the other wire the same way.

Now that you have your mirror installed on the driver's side, repeat these steps on the passenger's side up until the wiring goes through the cab. Once the wiring has been run from the inside of the door through into the passenger compartment, peel your carpet up and remove this lower panel below the cup holder simply by prying it out and placing it to the side.

Peel your carpet up that your wire's underneath. You could see that our wires aren't going to be quite long enough, so we'll use the scraps from our old harness to extend these. You want to twist the ends of the wire together nice and tight, put it in a single barrel crimp connector. Crimp that end. A little tug, make sure it's on there nice and tight. Twist the other end of the wire. Put that end on the other side of the barrel connector. Crimp it down. Make sure that you have a good tight connection. We'll reach up under the driver's side of the carpet. Feed our wires through until they reach your hand under the carpet. Pull one through, then the other.

We have a ground bolt right here on the inside of the truck. You go ahead and take that out with a 10 millimeter socket and ratchet. Pick your ground wire, leave a little bit of slack. Cut the end off and strip the end of the wire. Twist the ends together.

Install our eyelet connector. The eyelet connector just crimps on so you got a nice tight crimp on there. Give it a little tug to make sure it's not coming off. Crimp the passenger side ground wire. Another eyelet crimp. Make sure that's not coming off.

Reinstall our ground bolt. We're going to take our wire, tape it to a sharp, straight pick. You don't want to make it too thick, but we want to make sure it's on there good and tight. I'm going to peel back the carpet a little bit, and just to the outside of our e-break cable. Send the wire down through the rubber boot. Move the pick and the rubber while holding the wire. Now, we can pull our wire through.

Make sure to leave enough slack that we can tuck it back under the carpet. Our crimp connector won't fit through, so we'll just lay it all back down under the carpet. In order to make the lights on our new tow mirrors work as running lamps or marker lights, we'll have to use the second of the white wires with the yellow tracer from the latched side of the connector. This is going to be the fourth one in from the left.

Install the double barrel crimp connector on to the wire with the leads from your mirror stacked one on top of the other. Install them into the other side of the double barrel connector. Crimp your connector with a pair of pliers. Close the safety latch over the top. After installing your wiring, turn the vehicle on and check for operation of your running lights. Push your carpet back into place. Reinstall the trim below the cup holder, the two clips in the front.

Reinstall the plastic connectors. Pull the weather shield in. Make sure your carpet is back in place. Install the front clips of the kick panel and then snap the lower portion into place. Repeat this step on the opposite side.

Reinstall the rubber wire loom on both sides. It’s maybe easier to install the loom on the inner edge if you use a hook pick. Push down on the clips and remove the connector from the cab of the truck. Even just removing it partially gives you enough room. Slide the boot back around the connector and snap it into place. Pop off the door lock bezel by pushing from the back.

Reinstall your two window switch connectors. Line up the tabs in the door panel. Slide your door panel into place. Pop the door lock bezel back into place. Reinstall your four door panel screws. Hold your screw in place for the interior handle, line it up and tighten it down.

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