Replaces
This part doesn’t fit a . Select from parts that fit.
1A Auto Lifetime Warranty
Frequently bought together
Part Details
TRQ CV (constant velocity) drive axles are manufactured using premium raw materials designed to restore original performance. TRQ CV drive axles are new, so there is no core charge with your TRQ purchase. TRQ-designed drive axles utilize neoprene boots, moly grease, stainless steel clamps, and heat-treated ball tracks to ensure extended service life. Each TRQ axle is application-specific so each spline and thread will mate properly for a seamless fit. All products are fit and road-tested in our Massachusetts R&D facility to ensure we deliver on our promise of Trusted Reliable Quality.
Product Features
CV axles are designed to transmit the power from your vehicle's drivetrain to the wheels while being able to flex and pivot to the demands of the steering and suspension systems. If your vehicle is making clicking noises at lower speeds or when making turns, it may be time to replace your CV axles with our 100% brand new assemblies.
Note: This is correct for models with or without ABS brakes. The tone ring can be removed if the original CV axle did not have one and the vehicle did not originally come equipped with ABS brakes.
Item Condition:
New
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Lead and Lead Compounds, which are known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov.
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
FREE Shipping is standard on orders shipped to the lower 48 States (Contiguous United States). Standard shipping charges apply to Hawaii and Alaska.
Shipping is not available to a P.O. Box, APO/FPO/DPO addresses, US Territories, or Canada for this item.
Expedited is available on checkout to the United States, excluding Alaska, Hawaii.
Final shipping costs are available at checkout.
Created on:
Tools used
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video we're going to show you to replace a front axle on this 2002 Chevy Suburban. We show you on the passenger side, but the driver side it's the same procedure. It's the same part and similar process on these Suburbans from 2000 to 2006.The items you need for this include a new front axle from 1AAuto.com, 14mm, 15mm, 22mm, 35mm, and 36mm sockets, a ratchet with an extension, a pry bar, locking pliers, a torque wrench, jack and jack stands, and a reciprocating saw depending on the condition of your vehicle.
Loosen the lug nut caps and remove the hubcap and then pry off this cap as well. Loosen this 35mm nut, but don't remove it. Now, you want to remove the lug nuts. If you don't have air-powered tools, you want to do it while the vehicle is on the ground. Loosen them preliminarily, raise the vehicle, remove the lug nuts the rest of the way, then pull the wheel off. Using locking pliers, clip onto the top of your stabilizer link and then remove this 14mm bolt. We'll fast-forward as Mike does that. If you have air-powered tools, you can remove this 35mm nut the rest of the way, and then remove the washer behind it. If you don't, you can use your socket and ratchet, but you will need someone to apply the brakes while you do this.
You also want to remove the stabilizer link now. Ours is jammed in there, we try with a hammer to knock it out, but we have to end up using a reciprocating saw to remove it the rest of the way, meaning we will need to use a new stabilizer link. Now, you want to remove these bolts around the axle. Use a pry bar on the hub to just hold that into place. Then loosen up and remove each of those 15mm bolts. Now hammer the axle over to the side a little bit to break it free, then pull it straight back and out of the wheel. Pull it down and out.
Up top is the new axle from 1AAuto, on the bottom is the original. You can see they're identical. The new axle does come with a new nut that is 36mm. Now, feed your axle back into place. Line up the back and just replace those 15mm bolts. We'll fast-forward as Mike does this. Using your pry bar to hold the wheel still again, you want to torque each of those bolts to 65 foot-pounds. Now, you want to put your stabilizer link back into place, starting with a washer and a grommet, then through the hole and then another grommet, then a washer, then the tube. Then, before going through the next hole, another washer, and then a grommet. On the top, another grommet and another washer. Put your jack underneath the bolt part of that stabilizer link and raise up the jack and that will push that bolt up in there, compress a couple of the bushings, and then you can put your washer and bolt onto the top side.
Tighten up the stabilizer link, and you basically want to tighten it up until the bushings compress and are the same diameter as the washers. Now, replace this 35mm nut and tighten it up. Put the wheel back into place, and then replace each of your lug nuts, and tighten them up. You want to tighten them preliminarily, lower the vehicle, and then tighten them the rest of the way. Torque each lug nut in a crossing pattern to 100 foot-pounds. Torque the hub nut to 160 foot-pounds, then replace the dust cap as well as the hubcap and tighten up the plastic lugs.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
Tools used
Tools used
Now one of the first things you're gonna wanna do before you start any job is to make sure you're safe as possible. You want to have safety glasses and hand protection at all times. The next thing you're gonna wanna do is safely raise and support your vehicle so that your wheels are off the ground. Next, if there's a center cap, remove the plastic center cap and that will expose your lug nuts. Remove all 6 using a 22-millimeter socket. Remove your wheel.
What we need to do now... Oops... What we need to do now is remove the bolts that hold the axle, so the axle comes out of the front differential. I like to use a nice long extension and a swivel. We'll remove all those bolts. Now what we need to do is get this cover off of here. You can use something as simple as a pry bar and a hammer. Just give it a couple of loving bonks. Check your cover, make sure that there's no puncture holes. Let's take off this axle nut. Get that washer out of there as well.
Put a little bit of penetrant in here. Then we're going to take our punch and our hammer and we'll give this a couple of bonks to push the axle through. Okay, that broke free. Let's move along. Let's see if we can make the axle come down. It should go below there. Pull the axle out. There it is, friends. Let's go ahead and clean down this area. Now we're just gonna clean and prep our bolts. Once they're clean, just use a little bit of thread locker on them. We're gonna grab the axle and we'll start putting it back in.
I'm just gonna use some copper never-seize, go right inside that bearing hole there. Grab that axle. Squeeze the little one through. Okay. Pull the axle up to where it needs to go, line it up, and start in your bolts. Now that we have all those started, let's go ahead and snug them up. Do it in a crisscross pattern. So now it's gonna be time to go ahead and torque those bolts. To do that, it's probably easiest if you get down close to the ground, put a bar going through your lug studs like this, and then make it so your wheel can't spin. Go ahead and torque these to 58 foot-pounds.
Every time you get the axle nut on there, you're gonna notice that it's a locking nut because it has the two squished areas. If you still wanna use a little thread locker, we'll call it your prerogative. Now let's torque this to 155 foot-pounds. Torqued. Let's clean out this area. Now we're gonna take our cap and a little bit of gasket maker. Just go right along the edge there and just make a nice seal so no moisture can get in. Start it on there.
Clean up your mess. Now let's get the wheel back up on here. Okay, now with the wheel barely on the ground, so it can't spin, we're gonna torque the lug nuts to 140 foot-pounds. Torqued. If you have a center cover, put it on there now. Now that you've finished your service, go ahead and take it for a road test and make sure you get it down to a local reputable alignment shop.
Tools used
I'm gonna use a 22-millimeter socket. Take off the lug nuts so we can remove the wheel. Now remove the wheel. Now, take the axle nut off. Use a 36-millimeter socket. You can take the washer off as well. Use some pliers at the top of the sway bar link right there. And underneath, I'm gonna use a 14-millimeter socket, and just take the link out. It's a long bolt, goes straight through just like that. And take the top off just like that. Now just take a pry bar underneath here. Just raise up on the sway bar. Take the link out.
Now, we can take these bolts out. Use a 15-millimeter socket. All right. Now, you can take the axle and just pry it out a little bit. If you need to, you can use a pry bar or a screwdriver in between there. And just slide it down just like that. Now, I'm gonna push the axle out here. If you have to, you can use a hammer on that, and just slide it out. Slide the axle back in same way it came out. And slide this in position over here. I'll get all the bolts started. Now, I'm gonna torque these bolts to 58-foot-pounds. I'm gonna start on this one. And then, I'm gonna switch to the complete opposite side just to torque them down evenly. And you can use a pry bar to hold the studs from spinning. And torque the complete opposite one. And then, once you torque those, then just go around and torque the rest of them. So just take the new link apart. And just leave the washer and the bushing on this long bolt. And take the other bushing and the washer, line that up first, and then this tube goes next. Slide that bolt through, and then another washer, and the bushing. Line this up, and slide the bushing and the washer.
Pry down on the bar, and then it would help if you had someone to help you out to pry this while you're holding this and getting the nut started. All right. That's good. And then use a 14-millimeter wrench for the nut, and a 14-millimeter socket, and tighten this down. And then, you want to torque this to 89-inch-pounds. Make sure you're on inch-pounds, not foot-pounds. And put the washer back on. Put the nut back on. Now, I'm gonna torque the nut to 177-foot-pounds. I'm gonna use a prey bar to prevent the hub from spinning. There you go. Now put the tire back on, and the lug nuts. Now, I'm gonna torque the lug nuts to 140-foot-pounds in a star pattern or a cross pattern, so that it tightens the wheel down evenly.
And just go around again. Double-check.
