Replaces
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1A Auto Lifetime Warranty
Frequently bought together
Part Details
Our control arms are designed to be direct replacements for the original factory parts. They are 100% brand new and require no modifications for installation. No special tools are required because all of the bushings come pre-installed.
Our steering and suspension components are pre-greased and sealed for long life and do not require the extra maintenance typically required by greaseable versions.
Item Condition:
New
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Chromium (Hexavalent Compounds), which is known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
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Created on:
Tools used
Safely raise and support your vehicle on the frame so your suspension can hang. Now that we've safely raised the vehicle, let's remove this by using a small pry bar right in this little slot. Now you can see your 22-millimeter lug nuts, remove those. Now, with the wheels off, we have a clear view of where our upper ball joint nut is right here above the axle, go ahead and get that cotter pin out of there. It might not want to necessarily come out, you might have to cut it and then punch it through and try to grab on to it. Ooh. So, I sprayed that down again. Now, I'm gonna use my wrench. I'm gonna try to get this off of here. That right off of there. Now, we're gonna get the ABS wire off of the upper control arm. There's a bolt that comes through from the bottom to the top, hold the bottom, take off the top nut. Let's get this off of here.
Now we're gonna carefully push back the caliper piston. If you look right here, that's the piston. We want that to go all the way back as far as it can go. Some people would choose to open up their bleeder screw. If yours is in poor condition like ours is, it's probably going to break off. In which case, just push it back nice and slow. Now, we have a steel piston here, it's not ceramic. So, it's okay to go ahead and try to pry up against it. You can test it with a magnet. If the magnet holds, you know it's steel. Let's use a three-eighths Allen socket and remove these slider pins. Let's grab the caliper off of here and set that aside. Let's go ahead and get this rotor off of here.
Now that we have the caliper hanging, not from the flex hose, we have it hanging from a nice cord here, that way there it's not putting any pressure on that flex hose, we're gonna go ahead and take the upper ball joint nut, we're gonna put it on just a couple threads here. The reason for starting this on a couple threads is because the next thing we're gonna do is take a pickle fork and we're gonna try to separate these two. Once it separates, we wanna make sure that the knuckle doesn't come flying down and potentially rip the axle apart. Take your pickle fork and your little hammer, separate the two.
Now that we've got this separated, let's go ahead and take the nut off. Just be careful as you take it off because this is going to swing down and you don't wanna separate this area of the axle. There we are. Carefully let's bring this down. The next thing we're gonna do, you can either remove this by removing all these push clips or just flip it up. Once you've done that, you can see the nut that we're gonna remove. And on the other side is where the bolt is gonna come through. I'm gonna hold that bolt with a 21-millimeter. Now, we're gonna remove this nut using a 21-millimeter as well. You can see it's starting to come out, and you can also see this right here. You wanna make sure that you don't lose those. If you drop one, just go ahead and grab it. It should just slide up the bolt just like that. We're gonna use a punch, we'll push this out the rest of the way. And then we're gonna do the same to the other side.
We just wanna remember that this was facing down. Let's do the same to this one. As you can tell, you can roll this up so you have a better view. That's always nice. Here it is, friends. So, now we're gonna take our two mounting bolts here. I like to use a little bit of grease. You could also use some copper Never-Seez. You do you, boo-boo. Go right along this shanked area. That's gonna help make sure these come out nice and easy down the line.
Now it's time to put in the upper control arm. It's important to make sure that your control arm matches up with the one you took out because if you have the one for the other side of the vehicle, it's gonna cause a big issue. Another good way to tell if you're not sure because the curves are about the same, you could just look at where the bolt hole is missing. If you have the one for the other side, the bolt hole is gonna be missing over here. This looks great. Let's install.
Here we are. Just gonna leave this sitting for a second. Grab my bolt. I remember it came through from the inside through, and that this was facing down. It's nice and lubricated, so that's good. Getting all over my hands. That one is through. Let's do the same to the other side, and then we'll continue on. Let's get these on there. Put it on there. If you wanna use a little thread locker, we'll call it your prerogative, but these nuts should be locking nuts.
Now, before we tighten them down, it's important to make sure that you don't have your control arm hanging down like this. Of course, it's gonna put strain on the bushings. Once you go ahead and put this on the ground, it's gonna start stretching them. So, you wanna make sure you have it at approximately ground level. If you have the vehicle in the ground, this would be about where the vehicle is sitting. So, that looks good. I'm gonna find a way to hold this like this, and then we'll go ahead and continue. Now that I shim this with a nice piece of wood, I have it so this is approximately level with the ground. That's gonna be great. We're gonna go ahead and hold on to the bolt side and tighten up the nut side. I'm just gonna snug it and then we're gonna torque it to manufacturer's specifications. Let's go ahead and torque these upper bolts to 140 foot-pounds. Torqued.
Next, we're gonna take a nice, big pry bar. We're gonna come right across the top of the control arm underneath the frame. We're gonna grab our nut and have that ready. Now, let's tighten this up. The torque spec for it should be 74 foot-pounds. Something to keep in mind is it might be a little difficult to torque where you have the axle in the way. So, make it nice and tight. Once you're sure you've got it as tight as possible with the wrench, of course, I would try to make sure that you line up the castle nut slot with the hole that goes through the ball joint, and then go ahead and put in your cotter pin. Once you have the cotter pin through, make sure that you peen it over, that way there it'll stay locked. Beautiful. Let's take our grease fitting, start it in here. Make sure you snug it up. Perfect. Let's move along to this right here. You wanna make sure that you have your ABS cable secured. You don't want it to be rubbing against the rotor if it can move around.
So, now we're gonna take a bolt and the nut that came with the kit, put it through. Start the nut on the bottom there. The nut is a 12-millimeter and the top is a 13. We're gonna grab these little clips. They should slide right over the control arm and then they're gonna hold your ABS wire nice and secure. Just slide that one up quite a bit. Put that wire in. Do the same thing to the other one. Perfect. That's gonna protect this from getting damaged. Let's grease up this ball joint. Pay special attention to the boot under there. Make sure that it expands, but it doesn't necessarily keep expanding to the point that it blows open and squirts grease all over the place. Awesome. Let's get that new rotor on there. Make sure you take one of your lug nuts and tighten this down that way they're the rotor can't move around. Get the caliper on. We've got our two bolts. If you need to clean up the threads, now is the time to do it. But these look fine.
Now that they're both started in, we're gonna snug them up and then we'll torque them to manufacturer's specifications. Torque your slider bolts to 38 foot-pounds. Torqued. Let's get this off of here. We'll get our wheels back on. We're gonna put on all the lug nuts. We're gonna snug them up in a criss-cross manner. Torque these to 120 foot-pounds. It's torqued. We'll get our cover on here. Awesome.
Tools used
Okay, friends. One of the first things we need to do to get started is to safely raise and support the truck so the front wheel is off the ground. After that, go ahead and remove the center cover, and then we'll remove our six lug nuts.
Let's get the wheel off of here. All right. Now that our wheel's off, we have a nice clear view of our upper control arm here. You're going to see that you have two mounting bolts, one in the front here and one in the rear right there. Also what you're going to notice underneath this control arm is where your knuckle is going to be. If you were to look from the front or the backside of this is where you're going to see your ball joint nut. Let's remove all those. For the ball joint nut, you're going to see that it has a locking cotter pin. You're going to need to get that right out of there, and then you can remove the nut. There we are. All right. So, we've got this so it's pretty much at the bottom last couple of threads. Let's leave it just like that, and move along to the top area of this control arm. Up along the top, we're going to go ahead and remove this nut right here. I'm gonna use a wrench to hold the bolt that's coming through from the bottom. Get that out of there. Let's try to get as much slack with this ABS wire as possible. So, now, we're going to take a pickle fork and a hammer, and I'm going to come right in between this area here. That's going to be in between the upper control arm and the knuckle itself. Now, let's continue on to removing our caliper slider bolts so we can get the caliper out of the way. Let's carefully hang this so it's putting no pressure on our flex hose.
Let's just go ahead and put a lug nut on here to hold our rotor so it can't fall off. Now, let's carefully just apply a little bit of pressure underneath the lower control arm so we can continue on by getting the nut off of here. I'm just gonna put a pry bar right through here, a little bit of leverage, then I can take that nut right off. Just want you to pay special attention to your inner CV boot. If you were to let down on your control arm, you're going to be able to see that this is going to be able to pull out. That's going to separate the CV joint that's in here and it might be a little difficult to push back in. So, before you let the knuckle come down, just go ahead and support it with something like a bungee cord. So, now following your upper control arm, up to where it meets to the body of the vehicle, you're going to see that there's going to be a mounting bolt. That mounting bolt has an adjustment point right here. We want to essentially mark where this adjustment is to where it is on the frame of the truck. You can do with a crayon, a marker, chopstick, or even a little punch with a hammer. Just going to make a nice little line so that way there, I know exactly where it's supposed to go. Now, let's just do the same to the front.
All right. So, let's go ahead and hold the bolt side with our wrench, and then we're going to remove the nut. Now, before we remove the rear bolt, let's go ahead and loosen up this front bolt as well. Now, let's start removing the bolts. It's going to be helpful to remove these by taking the washer that's on it and just kind of sliding it towards the body of the truck as you remove the bolt. There we are. Do the same to the front. Now, let's use a pry bar and get this out of here. There it is, friends. So, now, let's take a quick look at our control arms and just make sure you're dealing with the right side. They're going to be a different shape. And then overall, you're going to notice that if you had the wrong side, this hole is going to be located on the opposite side than the original. This looks perfect. So, let's continue on to the original control arm. We're just going to grab these little clips right here. Now, we'll transfer them over to the new control arm and then we'll get ready to install the new control arm. Okay. Let's get this control arm into the truck. I'm just gonna bring it right over here. We'll get it lined up with our holes. We're gonna take our front bolt, start that one in from the inside facing towards the front, and then we'll do the rear from the front to the rear.
Now, as you install these, you just want to make sure that the cam adjuster is facing in the same direction as when you uninstalled them. We have those marks lined up right there. So, we wanna make sure that they're lined up before we go ahead and snug anything up. All right. Let's go ahead and get our nut on there, cut our adjuster, start the nut on there. We'll do the same to the other side. So, now before we can snug up those bolts, we want to make sure that the upper control arm is pretty much flat along this area here. You want that to be flat and level with the ground. So, essentially, it's almost like you have your wheels on the ground before you snug this up. Now, let's go ahead and torque these to 85 foot-pounds. So, now I'm just going to go ahead and line this up so the ball joint's getting ready to come through my knuckle. And then I'll take a nice pry bar and I'm just going to carefully pry down on this and set it into the hole. With this lined up, go ahead and pry down on that. Let's get our nut on there. Now, let's go ahead and snug this up. The torque for it is supposed to be 61 foot-pounds, but as you can tell, there really isn't very much room to try to get a torque wrench with a socket in here. Just go ahead and make sure that it's nice and snug and then, of course, you're going to line up the slot of the nut with the hole in the ball joint. Once you have your ball joint nut tightened to 61 foot-pounds, you need to continue tightening until you get to the very next slot that lines up with your mounting hole for your cotter pin.
Once you have that all lined up, let's continue on by putting our locking cotter pin inside there. And then once it's through, just go ahead and peen it over. So, now, let's go ahead and grab onto our ABS wire and we have our mounting point here. That's going to line up exactly with the hole on the ball joint, and then we're going to take our mounting bolt and our mounting nut, come right up through the bottom of that control arm and up and through the ball joint. Go ahead and start that nut on there, bottom it out, and then we're going to torque it to 17 foot-pounds. Now, I'm just gonna hold that bolt head from underneath and we'll continue on tightening this up. Now, let's go ahead and install our grease fitting. Let's go ahead and slide that right into that ball joint. Screw it until it bottoms out, and just give it a teeny bit more with your quarter-inch ratchet. That feels perfect. Now, let's lower this control arm. Let's make sure we pump this up with some grease. You want to pay attention to that upper ball joint boot and make sure that it expands a little bit, but you don't want to keep going necessarily until the grease comes out of the boot per se. Let's make sure we secure this ABS wire. Now, let's continue on by putting our caliper back on here.
Now, it's going to be time to torque these caliper sliders. I just want to pay quick attention to the type of brakes that you have. If you have drum brakes in the rear, you want to go ahead and torque these caliper sliders to 38 foot-pounds. If you have four-wheel disc brakes, which means you have disc brakes in the front and the rear, you're going to go ahead and torque these slider bolts to 15 foot-pounds. Now, before we go ahead and get the wheel up on here, we just want to take a quick peek and double-check to make sure everything's nice and snug. You want to make sure, of course, your slider bolts are tight. And, of course, the ball joint's nice and tight along the way. Other than that, just pay quick attention to the flex hose right here. Make sure the caliper hasn't been twisted and this doesn't look like a little pigtail or curlicue. This looks amazing. Let's continue. Let's go ahead and get that lug nut off of there. Reinstall your wheel, snug up all of your lug nuts, and then torque them to 140 foot-pounds.Torqued. Put on your center cover.
